New Goblin Kraken

[Eury]

Originally Posted by dan-uk

Hmm... that's weird.. there is nothing wrong with the outer race on my swash bearing. Am I just lucky or did I get a kraken clone lol

You’re a lucky one. I saw a post from someone who bought 2, one was bad the other was fine. Mine is bad, sadly. They are sending me a replacement, so it’s sitting on the bench waiting.

[m60e3]

Came today from Vietnam, 3 days.


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[Locktite]

Mine arrived in 4 days.. Great service by SAB

[Gianluca]

[QUOTE=m60e3;7779645]Came today from Vietnam, 3 days.














Hello, can you take a picture comparing the two pieces, the new one and the defective? Thank you

[pape]

I just built the head for my new kraken. When I tightened the feathering shaft, I immediately felt it tight and crunchy. I assembled the head with just one 1.0mm washer. I did not use any of the 0.2mm shims. This is not my first goblin nor 700 head. All I can say is that I have never had a head this tight on a new build.

I did try a fix posted on the FB group. It was recommended to push in a bit the bearing shield/cover on the inner bearing of the grip. That seamed to help very little.

For you guys that built you krakens how tight was the head once the feathering shaft was tightened?

mine is so tight that when you move the grips my hand, it feels like a tight ratchet mechanism.

[acidla]

Mine is very smooth.
Something is wrong in there. I would disassemble it to the last bit and assemble it again making sure all the bits are fully sitted.

[UpsideDownWhirlyBird]

Originally Posted by pape

I just built the head for my new kraken. When I tightened the feathering shaft, I immediately felt it tight and crunchy. I assembled the head with just one 1.0mm washer. I did not use any of the 0.2mm shims. This is not my first goblin nor 700 head. All I can say is that I have never had a head this tight on a new build.

I did try a fix posted on the FB group. It was recommended to push in a bit the bearing shield/cover on the inner bearing of the grip. That seamed to help very little.

For you guys that built you krakens how tight was the head once the feathering shaft was tightened?

mine is so tight that when you move the grips my hand, it feels like a tight ratchet mechanism.

No shim was smoothish with a slight “clickiness”. There’s more clickiness with a single .1 on either side —I think it’s .1. I’ll check when I’m home. I didn’t notice anything abnormally tight for a brand new head.

Check that you’ve got the thrust bearings oriented correctly, larger ID inside. Seems obvious but I still get it turned around on new builds because my eyes are starting to suck.

[tporter416]

Mine is smooth as well, doesn't fall under its own weight but moves very easily. I did as the manual said...

[OnTheSnap]

I used the shim and opted for some pre load. With pre load you will feel it be notchy a bit.

In my experience a little preload reduces dampener wear and gives the best feel that I like. Also as you wear in the heli the pre load reduces.

[Eury]

Mine felt notchy on one side from the build with the recommended setup. Flew one flight with it and everything is smooth and perfect now. Things just needed to seat, I’ve had the same thing with countless other helis.

[mulchi]

Quick question, after installing the ESC support, it is now harder to install the canopy and the ESC support is pressing into the canopy when installed. There is even a slight dent visible from the outside where the ESC support sits.

Is this supposed to be like that, maybe to avoid vibrations from the canopy?

[Christo074]

Originally Posted by pape

I just built the head for my new kraken. When I tightened the feathering shaft, I immediately felt it tight and crunchy. I assembled the head with just one 1.0mm washer. I did not use any of the 0.2mm shims. This is not my first goblin nor 700 head. All I can say is that I have never had a head this tight on a new build.

I did try a fix posted on the FB group. It was recommended to push in a bit the bearing shield/cover on the inner bearing of the grip. That seamed to help very little.

For you guys that built you krakens how tight was the head once the feathering shaft was tightened?

mine is so tight that when you move the grips my hand, it feels like a tight ratchet mechanism.

Hey Pape, I had the same exact issue, I just removed the 1mm spacer and used three .2mm shims.. and it's now perfect..

[pape]

Originally Posted by Christo074

Hey Pape, I had the same exact issue, I just removed the 1mm spacer and used three .2mm shims.. and it's now perfect..

Thanks for the tip!

I my self ended up sanding the 1.0mm washers and just using them sanded down. Now the preload seems correct. The thing is I now feel the bearings crunchy even when dissembled in my hands. I think that from building and disassembling the head so much, the bearing got a bit damaged from been so thigh. Well any ways I am still building.

[ragge1]

just wondering about static discharge , just measured the conductivity from the tail block to the motor plate and there none , I know nobody has had any problems but from my past expirience from 6HV and G380 I had some few issues before making the mikado mode on those helis , no problem with my G700 as I got good conductivity from tail to motor plate
for those who got there heli , hows the Conductivity , it might not be an issue but better save that sorry

[kjoer]

Originally Posted by ragge1

just wondering about static discharge , just measured the conductivity from the tail block to the motor plate and there none , I know nobody has had any problems but from my past expirience from 6HV and G380 I had some few issues before making the mikado mode on those helis , no problem with my G700 as I got good conductivity from tail to motor plate
for those who got there heli , hows the Conductivity , it might not be an issue but better save that sorry

Many Kraken aluminum parts are anodized. Anodized aluminum is an insulator. Thin, but an insulator nevertheless. Screw threads in those parts may or may not have been plugged during the anodizing process, possibly insulating them, or not. In most cases tho, if you tighten multiple screws in those parts, some will conduct a bit.

Concerning your question, there is no conductivity on my Kraken from the tail to the motor (probed between steel parts).

I've run custom 30µm hard anodized pulleys on my 570 and all 700's since 2014 onward, including on my Kraken. So all the belts from those helicopters are basically insulated, with the exception of my Goblin 700's, which run stock belt tension indicators. Ran a couple of thousand flights on them.

Come static discharge, I've never had an issue in cold/hot dry weather. Used with both Futaba FASST, FASSTest and V-Control.

Would a fully conductive/grounded boom/tail be better in some very rare weather conditions? Probably. Do I worry? Absolutely not.

If you don't feel comfortable with it, it's an easy mod to do :). Personally, I'm not going to bother. Good point though.

[m60e3]

Is there a trick to putting on the double sided tape and locking element inside the tail boom to align correctly the first try? It seems like once it sticks there’s no second chances to adjust or line up the holes. I’m at that stage and before attempting I figured I would ask.


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[Thickfog]

Originally Posted by m60e3

Is there a trick to putting on the double sided tape and locking element inside the tail boom to align correctly the first try? It seems like once it sticks there’s no second chances to adjust or line up the holes. I’m at that stage and before attempting I figured I would ask.


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Slip in two small screwdrivers or something through boom and locking element to line it up.

[tonys-heli]

Originally Posted by m60e3

Is there a trick to putting on the double sided tape and locking element inside the tail boom to align correctly the first try? It seems like once it sticks there’s no second chances to adjust or line up the holes. I’m at that stage and before attempting I figured I would ask.


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I do it like thickfog does, but I don't use the double sided tape.. I just ca them in there once their lined up.

[FNFAL]

Peel the tape, hold the lock with pointer and thumb fingers on one hand, place inside boom (hold boom between knees in chair pointing up), do not yet place on surface, with other hand thread one M3 screw a little, then the other screw, then pull on screws squarely and seat. But clean surface with rubbing alcohol first.

[m60e3]

Great tips, I will try in the morning. Thank you!


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