Looking for setting suggestions

[Cardin]

Ok so on my k110 I’m have issues with the tail holding during flips which is really making for a bad day. I have no problems just buzzing around but if I give it a good amount collective upwards the tail will move a couple inches anti clockwise. I have already added a k120 tail blade but it’s not seeming to help very much. My settings are as follows

idle up T. Curve 100-100-100-100-100
P. Curve 10-35-60-70-80
I’ve tried turning t. Curve down to 95 and p. Curve to 10-35-60-67-77 and no difference so I was wondering if anyone had any luck with different settings to combat this issue.

[Thomas.Heiss]

Hi Cardin,

when I mounted a new red (thinner) M3 foam pad on my V5 receiver board the tail was pretty rocking stable, even with the K110 prop, in 3G mode.

I had no problems with flips / going inverted.


The black foam pad is pretty thick and the receiver board wobbles very much if you try to move it back and forth or left and right the slightest.

With my new V6 board (new BNF heli) the board on the thik foam also shakes around quite much and my first impression from a simple hover was, that I saw a few drifts in 3G mode.
Also the tail was not holding that great compared to my previous BNF heli.
But I was not finished with the mechanical setup and first maiden flights....

Unfortunately the red aluminium tuning swash is corruptive...the upper head does not turn (corrupted bearing I guess).

I really do not like the plastic swash with the simple inner whole (the tuning swash as a golden inner alu ring which fits pretty tight the main shaft).

I have to do a complete new servo / swashplate level setup on the 1-2 two BNF helis.

Will experiment around.

My German XK dealer sent me a grey M3 tape which is slighly thicker than my other M3 red gyro pad.

I ordered several other M3 tapes from BG...will test them.


Summary:

If you are on the stock black (too thick) foam, the reason for a bad tail hold could be, that the board wobbles from front to back and left to right too easily.

I am not too happy about that BNF solution.

But like you, I would be interested in using the 6G mode at least as a working rescue option.

[Cardin]

I’ve done that to several of my k110’s but the brushed tail motors are horrible. I’ve managed to find a pitch curve that will hold with 100% throttle but I’ve also moved on to a trex 150x. The trex is unbelievable improvement over the k110.

I learned on the k110 it was my first heli and I will continue to fly them but mostly to learn new tricks before trying on my other heli’s.

[Thomas.Heiss]

Originally Posted by Cardin

but I’ve also moved on to a trex 150x. The trex is unbelievable improvement over the k110.

A friend of mine has the first T-Rex 150 version (not the 2nd version with the new FBL which you can tune with a mobile app) as he got a "used but cheap - no warranty - offer" from a big electronic seller in their outlet and he could fix the damaged head parts.

However, on his 150 I saw all the (single) cables from the tail to the ESC or main motor to ESC.
Not sure why they are using single wires (each phase)....but that cable mess did not look to me like a "crash beater heli"?!?

I also read in the threads that the ESC can not be directly unplugged from the main board as it is soldered on top (several connection points)?!

I have not seen the newer T-Rex 150X (V2) heli and how the 2x BL motor cables (still single wires to the ESC mount sockets/plug??) are handled / could be easily replaced or in what way the ESC is mounted to the receiver for V2.


Actually, my LHS had some Trex 150 ARF version (probably the first one) for ~240EUR USP 2-3 years back on the shelf.
Was a bit too expensive for flying it in a triple gym....on 2s you really need to be able to fly a CP heli indoors by practicing that first outdoors.
In the past 6 years I had no access to a gym anymore...

I really like the way how the XK K110 is using a separate ESC which is not directly soldered to the main board.
One of many reasons not to go for a XK K120/K130 heli when important (receiver) parts gets loose or you cannot simply replace them (e.g ESC).

..(...)..

In the end, the overheated K110 ESC (trying to direct solder a MCPX JST PH 2.0 plug to it in parallel) has also damaged the K110 receiver board :-(

As soon as I switched from FM1/ST1 (75% throttle) to FM2/ST2 (100% throttle) the bad (damaged) ESC shut off.

I must not have only damaged a Mosfet chip or resistor by soldering but also the BEC so the receiver board is now dead (no red/blue leds blinking after connecting the lipo) when receiving more over the red + cable then it could handle (max 4,18V for the fully charged 1s lipo)....

The big question is:
Why did it shortly work on 75% throttle (FM0 or FM1) and why did the receiver first initialize (with blinking / solid LEDs)?


I hope that I can finish the suspended Walkera V120D02s project in the future (other tail servo, mount, Tarot ZYX FBL with Spektrum satellite or FrSky micro/nano receiver or with µBrain / µSpirit).