XK K110 main shaft question

[Harrisson]

Does the main shaft suppose to move up and down freely like that?.
I had another xk k110 that the main shaft is really tight (not moving at all).
I know that when the main gear pop out you can push it back (i.e. the main shaft is allowed to move a little bit) but the one in the video moved a lot. Please clarify. Thanks.


If I want to replace the main shaft, do I have to force it out of the bearing or it requires any tool to remove it?. Thanks again.


IMG 1707 (0 min 6 sec)

[Thickfog]

If there's no main gear why wouldn't it move?
That's all that holds it on.

Just remove the main gear and pull it up to remove. You're already 80% there in the video.

[Thomas.Heiss]

To pull out: Remove the black collar.

Or better: Just slip down the main gear carefully as the collar screw (which goes through the whole on the K110) is very little and once you remove it, it won't hold that good in place anymore if you put it back again.

[Harrisson]

Originally Posted by Thickfog

If there's no main gear why wouldn't it move?
That's all that holds it on.

Just remove the main gear and pull it up to remove. You're already 80% there in the video.

Thank you. I did pull it out without any problem. I will replace it with the new one over the weekend.

[Harrisson]

Originally Posted by Thomas.Heiss

To pull out: Remove the black collar.

Or better: Just slip down the main gear carefully as the collar screw (which goes through the whole on the K110) is very little and once you remove it, it won't hold that good in place anymore if you put it back again.

Thank you. Why it's so hard to push the connecting rods back in place?. I'm afraid that I will bend the rod. Any tricks to make it easier like apply silicon grease?. I bought a ball link pliers but the gap is too wide for the xk k110.

[Thomas.Heiss]

Originally Posted by Harrisson

Why it's so hard to push the connecting rods back in place?. I'm afraid that I will bend the rod. Any tricks to make it easier...?

You can do it by hand, no problem.

Be aware:
There are two sides.
Do not try to put them on with the wrong side; no half turns!!
There is one front and a back; you can only successfully clip the back onto the swashplate ball!!!

When new, these rods are tough to get on the swashplate balls, definitely.
It is IMHO better to dismount the connecting rod link from the servo arm (make sure that you do not confuse which one goes to what roll side or roll vs elev).
And only then do it a few times (3-5x) when you can better hold it in hand.
I did not even try any tool to make the whole in the connecting rod a little bit wider (too wide = not good).
Then you can also quickly - but very carefully - try "what side of the rod is the correct one" before you 100% mount them together with the servo connected, as you can hold the connector in a different angle.

Furthermore the swashplate side arms can easily be bent because of the plastic.
So you need to be double careful.

Basically I removed the plastic swashplate on one K110 (one time I had a too high inner diameter vs main shaft diameter) and replaced it with the aluminium tuning swashplate.
So much smoother...
Way too much play in the head with the plastic one.

The black one which you can get from ebay China dealers (+ cheap replacement servo for a good price) was fine, also from my German dealer.

Sadly to say, BG sent me a defective red aluminium swashplate
(fixed inner ring; now after applying high forces I could finally move the ring a bit; but it clearly i defective as it runs so rough compared to the other two ones (black+red); either XK got the pressing wrong or the bearing is corrupted) with the (red) head tuning parts which are only available right now.

[ridge-runner]

Originally Posted by Thomas.Heiss

... Be aware:
There are two sides.
Do not try to put them on with the wrong side; no half turns!!
There is one front and a back; you can only successfully clip the back onto the swashplate ball!!! ....

I don't think so. My measurements show the opening to be 2.3mm +/-0.02mm on both sides.

[Harrisson]

Thank you Thomas for a detailed reply. I have few rods with one side slightly bigger than the other and most of them have the same opening as ridge=runner mentioned.

[Harrisson]

Could you tell me is that one of the aileron sevos is bad?. If that the case then which one?. I have all connecting rods equal length with a brand new swash plate. Thank you.

IMG 1714 (1 min 1 sec)

[CaptainFlySideways]

Originally Posted by Harrisson

Could you tell me is that one of the aileron sevos is bad?. If that the case then which one?. I have all connecting rods equal length with a brand new swash plate. Thank you.

https://youtu.be/AANbuX0-8aM

Are you on 6g? Did it happened when you move your throttle up a notch?
It happen to me before. The way to fix it is to calibrate properly, but no way a beginner can hover that thing steadily so i didn't get it fixed. I switch to 3g and it goes away. No longer fly 6g because of this.

[Harrisson]

I changed the left aileron servo then it worked fine. I fly 6G indoors only. I have no problem for calibration at all. I managed to hover almost hand free.
I'm starting to get a feel for flying this little beast after spending hours of fixing it. The reward is I understand the functions a bit more.

[Thomas.Heiss]

You can carefully turn the servo arm by hand (at best if it is not connected to the receiver board).
How does the gear feel like?

One cyclic servo of mine was perfectly working electronically (min/max movements), but feels really weird when I move it by hand.
Too rough, ocassionally stops at some point, etc.

Actually the servo gears should be working "butter smooth".