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130X Blade 130X Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 02-02-2020, 01:17 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 130x out of the attic, acting strange with motor running

I recently pulled all my gear outta the attic after years away from the hobby. I had sold everything except a few micros and my mostly stock 130x is acting a little bizarre under throttle.

When there is no throttle, cyclic servos and tail servo act normal. Once throttle is applied the tail servo starts having a lag to the rudder input.

I disconnected all the pushrods, removed main gear and same issue.

Unplugged the motor and once again, servos seem ok until throttle is applied and then they become delayed.

I have cleaned the tail servo, (stock linear servo) with qtip and alcohol (no dexoit on hand) and the movement is smoother but still has lag in the input once the throttle is applied.

I have rebound to a clean model in my DX7s, no help there.

I have been away from the hobby for many years and dont even remember proper TX setup for this model so it could be something simple or maybe the 3 in 1 is bad? I would like to salvage it if possible but not a big deal if it needs to be sold for parts.

Anyone have opinions on what to check next?

Thanks
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Old 02-02-2020, 02:04 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Could it be the battery? I just bought some new 450 milliamp hour batteries from HobbyKing and they work very well. And it might do better when you get the deoxit back in stock.
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Old 02-02-2020, 10:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Well, got it all cleaned up and was able to get it in a hover in the garage. Seemed fine. Moved the car out of the garage and when I plugged the batt back in, motor spins up for 1 second the goes to 0 throttle. Very strange as it wasn’t doing this earlier. Changed batts and same issue. Dropped the main gear to see if the mesh was too tight and same issue, 1 second spool up and then stops. I also had another motor (spin 8000) so I plugged that in and it has the same issue also. I think my control board has taken a dump.
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Old 02-03-2020, 10:35 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Well; the reason I mention the battery is because if they're more than about 2 years old they probably don't have hardly any output. They'll show volts but won't deliver any amps. Can cause strange problems.

On the other hand I pulled out my mSR last year for a sentimental flight and it wouldn't bind with any of my transmitters. Stayed in bind mode. It worked fine however many years ago I last flew it. Because of sentimental reasons I found a replacement board somewhere in Europe and installed it. Finally got that sentimental flight!
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Old 02-03-2020, 10:46 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Mechanic View Post
Well; the reason I mention the battery is because if they're more than about 2 years old they probably don't have hardly any output. They'll show volts but won't deliver any amps. Can cause strange problems.

On the other hand I pulled out my mSR last year for a sentimental flight and it wouldn't bind with any of my transmitters. Stayed in bind mode. It worked fine however many years ago I last flew it. Because of sentimental reasons I found a replacement board somewhere in Europe and installed it. Finally got that sentimental flight!
Yep, itís a valid point. I have about 12 packs, and had used a handful of them to just spin the motor up without any load while checking everything over, they all worked fine for that purpose. Then suddenly motor wonít run longer than 1 second at a time, tried it with about 5 different packs all the same issue. I have found 3-4 other threads with the exact same symptom as mine, even videos and no solution besides a new 3 in 1. Not worth spending $85 on a new board for this guy unfortunately so he will hit the scrap yard and I will move on to a fusion 180 or something similar.
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Old 02-03-2020, 04:17 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Agreed; I only fly my 130X just for old time sake. I wouldn't spend any real money on it to fix it but a couple of new 450 mah packs from HobbyKing makes it fly real nice.
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Old 02-04-2020, 06:19 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by branmuffin View Post
...When there is no throttle, cyclic servos and tail servo act normal. Once throttle is applied the tail servo starts having a lag to the rudder input....
How are you testing this? On the bench, or in flight? If it is bench testing, the "lag" you're seeing sounds normal.

With the 130x on the bench with throttle applied, giving some rudder input can "confuse" the 130x since the 3-in-1 isn't seeing the changes it expects from the gyro. As the 3-in-1 keeps waiting for the changes from the gyros, the error in the orientation the 3-in-1 expects to see keeps building/increasing. Subsequent reversal of the rudder input from the TX has to be present long enough to overcome that error that has built up in the control loop before you see the 3-in-1 acting on the new TX input. Hence the lag I think you're observing.

Bench testing of the 130x 3-in-1 gyros is pretty limited. With motor disconnected, set the 130x on the bench. Remove throttle hold and provide some throttle to put the 3-in-1 into flying mode. Now rotate the 130x back and forth a bit at the main shaft. You should see the tail servo moving back and forth as the 3-in-1 tries to maintain/restore the original orientation.

To test cyclics, you can do the same thing by holding the 130x in one hand and forcing some roll or pitch onto the heli. As with the rudder test, you should see the cyclic servos moving as the 130x once again tries to maintain/restore the original orientation.

The bottom line is that with the 130x, you're best off not trying to command cyclic or rudder in bench testing.


EDIT: Of course, this doesn't explain the motor cutting out after 1 second...
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Old 02-05-2020, 10:44 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Speaking of gyros and 130Xs that don't always behave - I've got a weird one for you all - one of 130Xs often has a severe cyclical shake.

BUT if I land it hard, even on carpet, often the shake will disappear completely.

The only thing I can think of is maybe a cracked solder joint on a chip somewhere, and the landing whacks the 3-in-1 so that the chip is able to connect again.

Either that or I should play with gyro gain.
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