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SAB Goblin 380 SAB Heli Division 380 - Goblin Helicopters Factory Support


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Old 12-04-2020, 10:41 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Goblin 380 Buddy build

I'm mirroring this log on imgur.



I believe it's customary to show a picture of the open box.



I particularly liked this empty one.



And this "warranty void" sticker over a box you have to open to assemble the helicopter. What do they expect, you to look at the parts, throw them into the air and call it a "flight," and then ship it back?



Beefy boy. 3220-950KV.



450 with a big hat.


I haven't started building yet, I'm hoping to get the helicopter together by the end of the weekend. I'll update the thread accordingly.

One question, is this permatex silicone dielectric grease okay, or do I really need the tri-flow grease? If so, I'm gonna need to order some, and that will postpone things

Build Part 2:


Starting to assemble the frame. Put the battery release tab on the wrong side cause I'm easily confused.


I was gonna put the servo in, and then I decided, why bother, I'll do it later. I did get it all ready to go, though. Weirdly, I could not for the life of me find the "supplied" servo horns. I can't figure out if I lost them, or they are actually missing, but I just could not find the damn things.


Nothing like sitting down with some wine and lube for a nice night of building a helicopter.


I devised this method for applying loctite to screws.


I got this far and decided to stop for the night. The build quality is out of this world.


Lol just kidding I worked for like at least another hour before actually quitting.


Bit of a jump in progress here. Pausing for a little bit to work on configuring the electronics. Also the weekend is ending soon.


Well, we're getting somewhere. A couple of notes:
  • Had to sand down the root of one of the tail blades cause it was really, really tight in the tail holder
  • I have a little bit of right rudder with the servo horn at 90 degrees to the tail rod (which I think is correct?)
  • Wiring is still WIP. I'll post pictures of it when it's done, but it's not gonna win any awards.

Build Cont.

Designed a mount for the SPM4650 receiver. Grab it here if it's useful: https://grabcad.com/library/spektrum...ntenna-mount-1


I'm really actually quite pleased with how it turned out. Designed, printed, and installed in the same day.


Receiver in place.


Ostensibly, the helicopter is actually done now, there's not really any building left to do, aside from very minor things. I need to go through the Ikon setup from the ground up, properly calibrate the ESC for governor mode, and check blade pitch and tracking. And then, I....guess it's ready for its maiden??


Wiring from another angle. We're not trying to win any beauty contests here.

Don't worry, we're not done yet, still a ways to go, but she's about together now.


She's almost ready for her maiden. All I need to do is calibrate the ESC for governor mode and configure headspeeds and throttle curves. I was little surprised that I had to adjust the main blade links to get close to zero pitch at mid stick, I really was expecting not to have to touch anything at all. I got things pretty close, the best I could do was about .5 deg positive pitch at mid stick, +/-12.5 deg total pitch, and +10 deg/-9.5 deg cyclic.

I also glued the canopy edge protection on, because it kept falling off. Didn't do a perfect job but I think it will do.

Part 5:

She's been flown! and I didn't even crash her. Don't worry, there will be plenty of chances for that.

So I may have alluded to this here and elsewhere, but there's been a surprise coming for everyone that I'm finally ready to present: This is an FPV bird (this has been my intent all along):

I'm really not good at line-of-sight flying, and frankly I don't care for it that much, so the plan all along has always been to mount a FPV camera (DJI Air unit, to be specific) to the helicopter and FPV it. Here's an in-situ picture of the assembly.


I decided that mounting everything FPV to the canopy was the best bet, at the end of the day. Here's how it looks. Buried in there is a Brain Radix, which I'm using basically to power the camera system from the Tx and deliver a very minimal OSD to the DJI goggles.

Trash can for your viewing pleasure.

Here's some footage recorded from the onboard cam

And here's a flight video

This is all part of my maiden outing today, so it's not super wild flying. I'm not that good anyway, though I will post more exciting stuff as I create it. You know, flight videos, etc.


Thank you all for following along with me, and all of your comments! This concludes the main portion of the build, but I will update with changes, crashes, and flights, as they happen, so don't run away yet!

Thanks!!!!
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Last edited by PancakeMSTR; 12-12-2020 at 03:06 PM..
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Old 12-04-2020, 11:40 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Nice! You will get it built in no time. I converted my 420 to Buddy with all the new parts and wiring is super clean and easy. I do have one piece of advice. Don't tighten the battery rails until you get a battery tray in. I had the issue that the battery tray didn't come in as it was too tight. By assembling it with a battery tray, it solved the issue and now it goes in super smooth
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Old 12-04-2020, 12:02 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toadiscoil View Post
Nice! You will get it built in no time. I converted my 420 to Buddy with all the new parts and wiring is super clean and easy. I do have one piece of advice. Don't tighten the battery rails until you get a battery tray in. I had the issue that the battery tray didn't come in as it was too tight. By assembling it with a battery tray, it solved the issue and now it goes in super smooth
Oh nice. Good tip, thank you.
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Old 12-05-2020, 01:13 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I've added some more (part 2)!
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Old 12-05-2020, 03:16 AM   #5 (permalink)
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the tail servo arm wont be 90deg to the servo, it will be 90deg to the control rod arm.. at least it was with my og goblin 380.
only need a dab of locktite.. i mean, just a little. i use a paper clip and put a touch that covers 2 threads.. only in one place, not completely around the screw.
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Old 12-05-2020, 06:48 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PancakeMSTR View Post
One question, is this permatex silicone dielectric grease okay, or do I really need the tri-flow grease? If so, I'm gonna need to order some, and that will postpone things [IMG class=inlineimg]https://www.helifreak.com/images/smilies/icon_sad.gif[/IMG]
Hi, Dielectric grease is not a good choice. It’s intended for electronic connectors, like the battery on your car or the plug for your trailer. Almost any other grease intended for lubrication like the referenced Tri-Flow will be better. K/Y wouldn’t be a good choice either.
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Old 12-05-2020, 08:33 AM   #7 (permalink)
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i think lowes and home depot, ace hardware, carry super lube.. great stuff

come to think of it, ive never needed tri flo for any build. tri flo is oil, not grease.
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Old 12-05-2020, 09:54 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonys-heli View Post
i think lowes and home depot, ace hardware, carry super lube.. great stuff

come to think of it, ive never needed tri flo for any build. tri flo is oil, not grease.
I think he means this stuff:
Tri-Flow TF23004 Clear Synthetic Grease - 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C15MUU...ing=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 12-05-2020, 10:39 AM   #9 (permalink)
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oh yea, that stuff is great, but in his pic, he has tri flo with like a little dropper tube.. i have that one too, but its oil.

i think we're all on the same page here.. carry on with the da build.. .. and freakin hurry, i hate waiting.. i can usually finish a build like this an about a half day.. BUT it takes a while to wire it and i really take my time with tail units. sometimes longer than the build itself depending on the model. some are great right out of the box.
but usually, i completely finish the tail last, just for this reason.
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Old 12-05-2020, 10:42 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I don't remember the manual stating there are supplied servo horns. SAB kits don't include them, they sell their own. Although the stock flimsy ones supplied with the servos do work fine.

For Loctite I use one of the many, many surplus little plastic ziploc bags and place a dab of Loctite. I wet the screw and then roll it on a clean part of the bag. You want to view your threads and just a film of Loctite present on the tip, at the most half of the screw. But if you remove the excess by rolling it then you should be fine. Also don't tighten them like your life depends on it, tighten them just so you feel they are secure. Loctite will take care of them staying there.

Also, and this is personal preference, I remove the oil from the screw before wetting it on Loctite, by dipping the screw on 100% Acetone, then clean them with a cloth and once they are dry then I use Loctite and install. Some recommend to use the grease-resistant Loctite instead and leave the oils as they help prevent future rust on the heads, but depends on how dry/moist is the place you live at. If you don't have high humidity probably you are ok using standard Loctite and cleaning the screw.

The grease I use in everything is the Boto-Lube. Only other lube I use is Gaui One-Way Bearing grease just for that particular application. Everything else gets Boto-Lube. After full assembly I use White Lightning bicycle chain lubricant for the shafts, but I am thinking to go with Dry Lube instead, it's just that stuff is expensive. I've also been using the White Lightning on the gears and has worked well.
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Old 12-05-2020, 12:26 PM   #11 (permalink)
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i always suggest to someone new to building, take a m2.5 bolt and somewhere on the frame, as a test.. use the smallest dab of locktite possible on the tip of the threads and screw it in and let it setup overnight.. see how hard it is to remove it the next day.. you'll be suprised.

ive removed screws from used frames that i bought, the locktite was all the way to the head.. some werent easy to remove. i was amazed the heli even flew to be honest. worst places to use too much is the tail, and ive seen horror stories there.

carry on with the build..
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Old 12-05-2020, 12:27 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Hey thanks for all the comments everyone.
  • So what I tend to do is roll the screw in the loctite and then wipe the excess off on the tip of my fingers, so that it's only between the threads.
  • I won't use the dielectric grease, and I ordered some of the tri-flow grease. Everything seems pre-oiled/greased up, so I'm probably good for the moment, and when I go in for maintenance I can use tri-flow.
  • Maybe they don't include servo horns, I thought they did for some reason. It's no biggy, I'll use the KST ones. They are a nice mechanical fuse anyway.
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Old 12-05-2020, 04:14 PM   #13 (permalink)
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If you got KST 215 servos the servo arms are sort of flimsy. If you got X12s, these are at least as rigid as any that SAB makes, if not more. The problem with the SAB arms that I have experienced is the teeth inside the arm wear too easily and you end up with sloppy servos if you don't pay attention. Gave up on them real quick. The stock servo arms are usually much better in this regard.

If you are used to using the tips of your fingers to remove excess loc-tite, get the loc-tite paste and do the same. No need to remove oil from the screws. Just get the oil-resistant version.
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Old 12-05-2020, 04:46 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I typically assemble the kit dry...

And after the main shaft is installed and rotating freely I go back and loctite all screws...using a napkin to bleed off the excess
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Old 12-06-2020, 06:37 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Been making some good progress. Got a lot of the main helicopter body assembled. Switching gears to work on the electronics a bit, then will get back to building. I glued up the tail pushrod and that has to cure overnight anyway so it's good timing.
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Old 12-06-2020, 07:23 PM   #16 (permalink)
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tail pushrod is a whole thing.. it has a tendency to split.. i use a sleeve over the rod. you can cut a female ec5 connector and its a perfect sleeve for the rod. or use a lynx rod end.. its all in one, but it does change the length needed. you could build one end completely, then figure out what length you need when the tail servo is installed and the rod is 90deg with the arm, then make the other end..
whichever method you use, i usually dont make the rod until the servo and arm is installed with the tail completed, that way its perfect.
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Old 12-06-2020, 09:02 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I have heard a lot about the rod split but Iíve never had one. I use 5 minute epoxy and it works great. It just needs you to keep turning the rod while it dries on the 5 minutes to avoid a blob of it on a side or worse, to actually drip.

What works for me is to make them as short as possible on the rod side and keep enough thread on the ball side to make adjustments. So thread the ball side completely then dip a bit on epoxy and insert as much as possible with just a little bit of thread showing. Careful to not let the epoxy glue the ball side!


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Old 12-06-2020, 11:09 PM   #18 (permalink)
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The only time I’ve had a rod split is in a crash. I’ve only used J-B Weld and add some heat shrink at each end so I can grip the pushrod better to screw on the link. I grab the end with my fingers vs. using a pliers.

The biggest thing I’ve noticed is that if you twist the pushrod over the length of it, the Carbon will split.
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Old 12-07-2020, 01:39 AM   #19 (permalink)
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That's a good point, to not twist the carbon over it's length. I will be careful not to do that. I already glues the threaded rods in, so there's not much I can do about that. Used pretty standard 5 minute epoxy.
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Old 12-07-2020, 07:55 AM   #20 (permalink)
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For the tail control rod I used JB Weld to attach the rod to the control rod. Takes a lot longer to dry as I do one side at a time.

Once that all dries I use some thread and Medium CA on the ends. I wrap the ends with the thread and apply CA and hit it with kicker. Doesn't look super pretty (probably could if you really cared) but it works.
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