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Old 01-14-2021, 07:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 6250hx maiden

Got it today. Did a dry run to get familiar with the layout. I had to update my dx6 g2 to 2.07 firmware to get it to program correctly while setting orientation but, works perfect after that. Did a factory reset and dropped it in my xl550 and got it setup just in time to get one last twilight flight in.

Came off the ground with out any issues. Locked onto a hover pretty good. Just the slightest drift but no big deal. Start doing circuts, funnels, flips. Flys like a properly setup heli. Stunt 2 to up the head speed and start checking response. Cyclic is pretty uneven. Lots of elevator and little aileron. Will take a look later as I didnt have light to play with any settings so then I started pushing the tail to see how it is doing. It moves around a little in some heavy cyclic maneuvers but its not all the time and not bad, just noticeable. Holds well in backward hurricains. Seems the stock settings are a bit light on cyclic and tail but not so loose that the tail will blow out or anything crazy.

Once you get use to it, setup is really fast. The unit arms like the old rx, turn it on, the servos wiggle and your ready. No more 5 sec wait for it to arm itself. Base setup is 95% there. Everything you need to do is in your radio, like its supposta be. I like simple and this fits the bill. For the electric helis this is all you need. For nitro a gov, temp sensor port and hd battery circut with switch would finish it off perfectly.
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Old 01-16-2021, 11:36 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Flight #2

I converted my xlpower from 520 to 550 setup last night. Looked over the settings and found my cyclic throws were roll 80 and pitch 90. I set them both to 82 and headed for the field today. After a circuit or two I checked response and found cyclic is balanced now but on stops, the heli kinda stops then drifts. I went from 50 on the p and i gain on both roll and pitch to 60. Stops were clean and stayed where I put it. Feels like its on rails now in hurricains. Piroflips were nice and smooth with enough cyclic throw to get threw the maneuver but not much extra. When switching over the tail boom last night I noticed my tail slider was a bit sticky. Cleaned and lubed it all up when I put it back together. The tail is rock solid on stock settings. I didnt touch a thing.

The only issue I have is in fast tic tocs its like im fighting the gyro to change directions. Cyclic is lagging behind collective. Other systems it would be a feed forward setting, would d gain do the same thing? agility is at 100 already.

Cant say too much more. Put it in, takes 5 mins to setup if your heli is good to go. A couple of adjusments on the maiden and thats it, done. Its going to take a couple more flights to really make my mind up but from what ive seen so far im sure this will land in my specter.
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Old 01-16-2021, 03:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Flight #3

D gain helped the controls get threw the gyro. The higher I went, the more I could steer the heli in fast tic tocs. Sitting around 25 now and can almost tic toc end less. Started doing piro flips and it was kinda snapping threw the manuver and over rotating badly. Got in trouble twice but pulled out of it so I went back to tic tocs and hurricans for the last min of the pack. On my way home it dawned on me that I have flown with some kind of cyclic ring since my fly bar days. The e ring is 100 by default. Next time out I will start at 80 see how it does.

Last thing. The tail holds everywhere, elevator tic tocs, full collective punch outs, fast huricans .... it wont hold in ailron tic tocs. p is 85, i is 95 and didnt think I should go to 100 so I turned up my gyro gain from 75 to 80 but it didnt help. It might be me but its the same in nose left and nose rt aileron tic tocs. I have to hold rt rudder for them to stay horizonal. What do I adjust? Bigger tail blades?
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Old 01-18-2021, 08:47 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Looks like no interest so I will leave my last couple notes.

If you have one of these I strongly suggest you set your ering to 80 instead of the default 100. I checked last night and when I put the stick in the corner the swash had a ton more throw then it does with just ail or elev. 80 got the swash angle the same all the way around in a stick swirl. It cant hurt you and you will never feel it but it WILL save your heli if the swash gets to the corner. The d gain is low on default. It moves so slow that it cant ever get in the corner so you dont know. Well, if you turn the d gain up so that it actually follows a fast command, the swash ends up in the corner and binds the head (last nights flight) and up the odds of a dirt nap.

Out of the box the tail is as good as any current fbl Ive tried. Really dont need to touch it.

Hovers trim was close but slight drift to the rt and back. My tail would drift when sitting on the bench so I leveled it off and recalibrated the unit. My tail drift on the bench is gone but havnt flown yet to see how hover trims out. Im sure it will be spot on thow.

Nice simple unit that works. From a fresh start I would say recalibrate the unit and set the e ring to 80. From there its little tweaks on the cyclic p and i gains. When thats close turn your d gain up doing your fastest cyclic maneuver (mine is ail tic toc) untill you have full control. Thats 98% of the setup. Should be able to do any maneuver in your book from there.

Hope this helped.
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Old 01-18-2021, 11:16 AM   #5 (permalink)
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It's not that there is no interest, the information is useful but only if you also include your complete helicopter mechanical setup. I don't fly 3D so I could not even begin to answer questions about tail hold on tick tocks but you are in one instant saying the tail is perfect and in the same sentence saying it doesn't hold on aileron tick tocks. A bit confusing. Take care.

Don
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Old 01-18-2021, 12:45 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyrigger View Post
It's not that there is no interest, the information is useful but only if you also include your complete helicopter mechanical setup. I don't fly 3D so I could not even begin to answer questions about tail hold on tick tocks but you are in one instant saying the tail is perfect and in the same sentence saying it doesn't hold on aileron tick tocks. A bit confusing. Take care.

Don
Fair enough.

The tail issue I chalked up as my sloppy inputs or a setup issue considering it held every where else. Sorry for the confusion. After recalibrating the unit the tail holds every where and the hover trim is dead on. In either case the stock tail settings are good enough to do 99% of the maneuvers a heli can do even if you mess some thing up like i did. lol

No binding in piroflips now. Same response all the way around the flip. It was a bit touchy on cyclic (about 1/3 cyclic to get done) so I dropped the agility from 100 to 90 and it open up the swirl to a more comfy 1/2 cyclic range. I could do continuous piroflips at this point and then started to move them around some but, still a bit touchy so a little more tuning but all in all, its done. It will do anything I can do.

If it helps
lxpower 550
stock 1100kv and 12 tooth
scorp 12-130 speedo
gens ace 6s5000 45c
rt560/85
align 530 cyclic
kst 805x tail
auw 2725 grams (6lbs)

From stock settings im +10 on swash P and I gains, +15 on swash D gain, -20 e ring and -10 agility. When this goes into the 700 I will start fresh but it will be 80 e ring and r20/p25 D gain on the swash as my base setting.
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Old 01-18-2021, 02:04 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Swashplate AFR's to provide +/12.5 degrees average for both control directions. Due to the swash geometry on the xl 550 I ended up with different roll/pitch afr's, make sure you set roll and pitch and also average left/right and roll/pitch values to end up with a average of 12.5 degrees.

Starting with stock settings you should be around;

Swash
.Agility = 135%
.Roll P=75, I=75, D=7 (deg/s 290)
.Pitch P=75, I=75, D=14 (deg/s 290)

D=7/14 is pretty much standard for a wide range of models.

I have no issue with the e ring set at 100% on my xl 550 (running 520 blades), why did you feel the need to decrease by 20%?

Tail (my xl520 settings w/spmsh6360 @8.4V & rotor tech 85's)
.Start 25
.Stop 25
.P=85, I=130, D=10

Setup->Tail->Advanced->Phasing (this will help piro flips)
.Left=19
.Right=19

I have posts up here on how to adjust the cyclic and tail gains, due to the large # of variable's (models, servos, blades, headspeed, model weight, air density, on and on) its just easier to follow those posts to come up with the best gains for your model.
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Old 01-18-2021, 03:39 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianbremer View Post
Swashplate AFR's to provide +/12.5 degrees average for both control directions. Due to the swash geometry on the xl 550 I ended up with different roll/pitch afr's, make sure you set roll and pitch and also average left/right and roll/pitch values to end up with a average of 12.5 degrees.

I did that on the first setup. see maiden flight and flight #2 report for what I found reguarding that.

Starting with stock settings you should be around;

Swash
.Agility = 135%
.Roll P=75, I=75, D=7 (deg/s 290)
.Pitch P=75, I=75, D=14 (deg/s 290)

D=7/14 is pretty much standard for a wide range of models.

That low of a D gain is where I had a problem with the system. you could sit on the bench and see that any fast cyclic movments were not getting threw to the swash. Its just too slow to follow along at a little faster pace.I turned the agility all the way up and it didnt have any effect. I turned the D gain up a little and saw it rt away. With it down that low its like you have .25 transit speed servos on cyclic.

I have no issue with the e ring set at 100% on my xl 550 (running 520 blades), why did you feel the need to decrease by 20%?

As stated before, as long as your D gain is turned down you wont have a problem. The swash is too slow to give you full throw at fast cyclic speeds so it will never make it to the corner. Turn it up a little and then its fast enough to dig into the corners. Dig into a corner and the head dumps 40+ degs of pitch at once and binds rt up like mine did. The e ring takes those corners off so that dont happen. Default really should be 80 for safety.

Tail (my xl520 settings w/spmsh6360 @8.4V & rotor tech 85's)
.Start 25
.Stop 25
.P=85, I=130, D=10

Setup->Tail->Advanced->Phasing (this will help piro flips)
.Left=19
.Right=19

what does this setting do? Ive seen it but no explanation for what it does

I have posts up here on how to adjust the cyclic and tail gains, due to the large # of variable's (models, servos, blades, headspeed, model weight, air density, on and on) its just easier to follow those posts to come up with the best gains for your model.
And thats what I have done. Started from stock and tweaked to fit this heli. Its locked in everywhere and feels good. I just have a little more tweaking on cyclic in piroflips to do. Its just a feel thing, I was hitting my marks pretty good last time out so not far off now.
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Old 01-19-2021, 09:58 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I can only steer you in the correct direction, which direction you choose to go is entirely up to you.

Many of the adjustments in the fc6250hx will only impact the performance in flight and you won't observe any changes on the bench. Keep in mind the fc6250hx is controlling the model it simply works to achieve your stick inputs by design.

The ering is a hard limit on the outputs, gains will have no affect on this limit so if you are seeing binding on hard / fast inputs the servos are overshooting the commanded position which is actually a servo performance issue. High D gain may aggravate the issue if the servo is overshooting.
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Old 01-19-2021, 11:21 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianbremer View Post
if you are seeing binding on hard / fast inputs the servos are overshooting the commanded position which is actually a servo performance issue. High D gain may aggravate the issue if the servo is overshooting.
im just an average 3d pilot, i can do most of the manuvers so I do have the ability to fully setup a heli. Im not sponsored, im nothing special. I just like to help other people with there helis. Thought it was a good idea to show what I found and maybe a quick way to get some answers if I had questions. Well, when i have the guy that designed the unit telling me my setup is wrong and I run shoty equipment clearly I was wrong.

Thanks for your time guys.
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