First Kraken Build

[DrDisrespect]

Hey guys, continuing my thread from the new members forum, figured it's more appropriate here.

I'm having a hell of a time getting the canopy on, the quick release pegs seem to be about 1/4in short on both sides when I push the front of the canopy all the way into the plastic lip. I can get one side on by pushing the canopy to that side, but then it's impossible to get the other one on. They're both bent at such an awkward angle when trying to fit into the hole that the quick release mechanism doesn't engage.

Is there a trick or adjustment for this, I don't see any way for the front plastic canopy lip to change distance to the quick release pegs.

[Weule]

The bottom of the canopy should go into the lower support tongue. Looks like you have the canopy underneath it.

EDIT
It looks like you have it correct. You probably need to push it further into the tongue.

[DrDisrespect]

Originally Posted by Weule

The bottom of the canopy should go into the lower support tongue. Looks like you have the canopy underneath it.

EDIT
It looks like you have it correct. You probably need to push it further into the tongue.

It's not, the canopy is in the slot between the two tongues. Really stumped, don't even see any results searching the web for this issue.

[Weule]

Originally Posted by DrDisrespect

It's not, the canopy is in the slot between the two tongues. Really stumped, don't even see any results searching the web for this issue.

Yeah, I edited my post to reflect exactly that.

I'm guessing you need to seat the canopy further into the tongue. They are really tight from the factory.

[ticedoff8]

In your other thread, you have a picture with the ESC mounted on the top of the forward frame.


My guess is you've got interference between the inside-top of the canopy and the top of the ESC.

[DrDisrespect]

Originally Posted by ticedoff8

In your other thread, you have a picture with the ESC mounted on the top of the forward frame.


My guess is you've got interference between the inside-top of the canopy and the top of the ESC.

That's what I thought too, but it has good clearance, that ESC (HW 130A) is pretty small compared to the full size 200A ones they recommend (hence the zip ties since it's not big enough to fit the bolt holes).

I actually worked the canopy on a bit more, just really wiggling it around, still not getting nice engagement of the quick release mechnisms, but it's workable now.

[Valon82]

Can you post a pic of your side frame showing the quick connect female? With canopy removed.

[thepainter]

Mine had the same issue just push it back it will go I promise pull out on the back side of the canopy may help some as well.

[DrDisrespect]

Originally Posted by Valon82

Can you post a pic of your side frame showing the quick connect female? With canopy removed.

Sure

[littledog28]

Same. It is really tight. I put the more difficult side on first then push and pull to get it latched. I figure tighter is better than looser. It would be nice to have some adjustment though.

[ticedoff8]

The Goblin 570 had that same style of quick-connect. And its canopy was also hard to line up and get the two sides of the quick connect to mate.
On almost every flight, one side or the other would disconnect and the canopy would flop around on that side. I never had both sides disconnect at the same time. It worried me enough, and I lost one of the RC Booya connectors off the canopy (in -flight) that I changed from the SAB / RC Booya quick-connects to the screw-on canopy mounts.

That changed the whole experience of getting ready to fly or having to worry about the rotor eating the canopy.

On my two 570, the lining up the canopy's grommet with the cone-shaped frame-mount is much easier and getting the mounting-screw started is a non-issue.

As I turn the screw down, the canopy lines up on the cone-shaped shoulder and the I'm done. The canopy grommets provide enough friction to the screw that it doesn't loosen up in flight.

Maybe you want to take a look at them for your Kraken 700.
SAB Goblin Aluminum Canopy Positioner Set SABH0217-S
SAB Goblin Canopy Locking Screw SABH0248-S

[DrDisrespect]

Pretty frustrating that this seems like the only piece of the kit that doesn't go together super smooth, almost like there's a tolerance error in the canopy construction.

Just for reference since a lot of people mentioned ESC clearance, there's at least half an inch on every side, I'm using a small ESC here

[P@reez]

I see the sides of the Esc plate are touching the canopy and might be preventing the canopy from being slid further in and reaching the quick release cups. And as the motor belt tension is adjusted, that Esc plate is going to move front and back. Perhaps this is why different people have different results with canopy fitting easily or not. I'm running the stock pinion 21t and my belt tension isn't too tight. The canopy fits without much fiddling for me.

You could try easing off on the belt tension to see if it helps the canopy fit.

[DrDisrespect]

Originally Posted by P@reez

I see the sides of the Esc plate are touching the canopy and might be preventing the canopy from being slid further in and reaching the quick release cups. And as the motor belt tension is adjusted, that Esc plate is going to move front and back. Perhaps this is why different people have different results with canopy fitting easily or not. I'm running the stock pinion 21t and my belt tension isn't too tight. The canopy fits without much fiddling for me.

You could try easing off on the belt tension to see if it helps the canopy fit.

This is the first plausible answer I've seen, the manual only states you should "apply the correct tension" without any indication of what that is haha. I'll try backing it off a bit, about how much should the main belt deflect when you give it a push from the side?

[P@reez]

Originally Posted by DrDisrespect

This is the first plausible answer I've seen, the manual only states you should "apply the correct tension" without any indication of what that is haha. I'll try backing it off a bit, about how much should the main belt deflect when you give it a push from the side?

This is how much mine deflects.

Kraken 700 belt tension (0 min 8 sec)

[Kgnx]

ESC mount assembly moves with motor mount, so belt telsion effects canopy fit but not as much as pulley size.
I built my kit with 21T stock pulley then installed 24T to get a proper headspeed with align 850mx 490kv motor. Then the way how it feels while mounting canopy changed dramatically.

[vvv850]

One thing that could help is to use some silicone grease on the insides of the canopy. A thin layer applied with a napkin is enough.

I use this method on all my helis and helps a lot with battery cables, esc cables and frame touching the canopy.

[DrDisrespect]

Originally Posted by vvv850

One thing that could help is to use some silicone grease on the insides of the canopy. A thin layer applied with a napkin is enough.

I use this method on all my helis and helps a lot with battery cables, esc cables and frame touching the canopy.

This is genius, obviously the answer is always more lube!!😂 Put a thin coat on the inside where the ESC tray touches the canopy and it went right on without too much struggle. Thanks man!

Just got done with the maiden flights, super smooth and locked in. Actually way easier to fly than in the sim didn't really drift around at all. Only thing I noticed was hover seemed quite a bit higher on the stick than expected, almost 3/4ths at 1800rpm. (Liner pitch and gov throttle) I spent a good amount of time getting the swash level and as close to 0 degrees at mid sick as I could. Maybe my pitch range is low (+- 11.3) or it's the beginner mode bank in the ikon reducing throws?

Anyway did 4.5 min and came down at 3.95 volts, could probably run 8min with basic hovering.

Edit: After checking logs I was actually at 1600 headspeed, forgot about that, wanted to try it out. Probably why hover felt higher on the sticks than at 1800 I was practicing on in the sim! Vibration all looks good, under 10% throughout the flight.

[fiddle]

I doubt the collective stick feel will be the same as in the sim no matter what you do. That seems to be an area of deficiency (at least in AccuRC and Heli-X) in my opinion. They just don't feel like real life.