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Old 07-31-2021, 04:28 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Hot Motor

Motor too hot to touch over 1-2 seconds. ESC is just warm, as desired.

Flying big air.
Headspeed 1800
Stock pinion 11t
EgoDrift 4525HS
HW 130a esc
Timing 9dg
How do I cool it down?
Thx
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Old 07-31-2021, 04:34 PM   #2 (permalink)
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What kV motor and what throttle percentages? What is governing?
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Old 07-31-2021, 04:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
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If possible, find an IR gun and get an actual temperature of it. "Too hot too touch" can be down around 130F, which is well within acceptable temp limits.

Besides that, here are a couple things that can cause it to heat up, in no specific order. Too tight gear mesh, tail belt too tight, bent motor shaft, any binding in drivetrain, etc.
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Old 07-31-2021, 05:57 PM   #4 (permalink)
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What is the temp outside? If in the 90s or higher, temps on the motor can be 20-30 degrees higher most of the time I've measured. Which is about to be expected.
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Old 07-31-2021, 09:21 PM   #5 (permalink)
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ive lost track of how many times this comes up.
the only way to tell how hot anything is, is with a temp gun.
how about during the summer, just dont touch the motor right after a flight.

best way to cool it down is let it rest after a flight.
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Old 08-01-2021, 04:56 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Yeah these posts come up often...but guess what, there must be a reason. There is little help in having a thermal gun if one doesn't know what tempearture to aim for. How about if manufacturers (Egodrift and XLpower) provided some more data of permissable motor working temperatures, like many other manufacturers do? That way people would know what is ok and what is too hot. Simple. Or else same questions will keep being asked here furter on in the future.
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Old 08-01-2021, 06:44 AM   #7 (permalink)
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you can get a temp gun for about $15 on Amazon. Your motor should be fine at 60c and below. Mine come down in the 40c range and seem to be fine. No idea what the upper limit is but you've got some kind of problem if your motor is getting above 60c I'd say.
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Old 08-01-2021, 08:12 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomazB View Post
Yeah these posts come up often...but guess what, there must be a reason. There is little help in having a thermal gun if one doesn't know what tempearture to aim for. How about if manufacturers (Egodrift and XLpower) provided some more data of permissable motor working temperatures, like many other manufacturers do? That way people would know what is ok and what is too hot. Simple. Or else same questions will keep being asked here furter on in the future.
Little help with a temp gun? How is it that the actual temp is not good data vs it "feels" hot?

Please send a link to the "permissible motor working temperatures" of any other brand, I'd like to read about it.
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Old 08-01-2021, 08:32 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrman83 View Post
Little help with a temp gun? How is it that the actual temp is not good data vs it "feels" hot?

Please send a link to the "permissible motor working temperatures" of any other brand, I'd like to read about it.
Here you go:

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Xnova:
Magnets up to 150C
Windings up to 280C

Measuring them in flight is an entirely different question. A 1/2 minute or so afterwards is a bit late…
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Old 08-01-2021, 08:43 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Here’s another one…….

https://www.scorpionsystem.com/info/...runner_motors/
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Old 08-01-2021, 09:20 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Vincent talks abut egodrift motor temps starting at 34 min.
At an hour he talks about using a temp gun and proper timing. He suggests 9 degrees timing for hs series.
I know you have it at 9 so sounds like you did some homework already.

I'm listening to FreeFall RC Podcast | Episode 276 - EGODRIFT with Vincent Offenbeck! on Podbean, check it out! https://www.podbean.com/ea/pb-ajh4a-1041891
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Old 08-01-2021, 09:37 AM   #12 (permalink)
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motor temps arent an issue at all.. the esc will shut down before the motor quits.
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Old 08-01-2021, 10:58 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Maybe you both should read what he said. Neither one of those listed are what he mentions, those are maximum temps, which is not what I would call "working temps" OF ANY MANUFACTURER.

And, my only point in asking for that info was to mention that despite any mfg listing the "working temps" (if they ever listed such a thing), the questions still get asked for nearly all, if not all, mfgs out there - period. Just because ANY type of info is posted or listed by a mfg doesn't mean the end user is going to go out and look for that data - even if it was the "right" data.

You guys realize that the lowest temps mentioned in either of the links is 150C which is 302F. If that is a working temp, it would melt the canopy.
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Old 08-01-2021, 01:25 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrman83 View Post
Maybe you both should read what he said. Neither one of those listed are what he mentions, those are maximum temps, which is not what I would call "working temps" OF ANY MANUFACTURER.

And, my only point in asking for that info was to mention that despite any mfg listing the "working temps" (if they ever listed such a thing), the questions still get asked for nearly all, if not all, mfgs out there - period. Just because ANY type of info is posted or listed by a mfg doesn't mean the end user is going to go out and look for that data - even if it was the "right" data.

You guys realize that the lowest temps mentioned in either of the links is 150C which is 302F. If that is a working temp, it would melt the canopy.
302F wouldn’t melt a canopy. Mainly because they use a thermoset resin that would decompose not melt. Look at the temperature listed on your JB Weld, mine says 550F. Granted not all epoxy is a good as that, and certainly most canopies aren’t made for heat resistance, but their not in intimate contact with the motor either.

Your ESC doesn’t have an operating rating, just maximums. Sustained and 5-15 secs peak maximum amperage rating.

The peaks are just that the maximum the motor can withstand without damage. Demagnetize the magnets, or melt the insulation off the windings. Nobody is measuring a ‘real’ temperature anyway. Best that’s being done is pointing a IR thermometer onto the can or in the vent holes trying to get the windings some time after the motor has cooled. Take the temp as fast as you can, then count to 30 and take it again. It’ll be drastically different.

Think of this, if you don’t remove the enamel from the motor wires, molten solder isn’t hot enough to damage it. Windings need to get pretty hot to damage them.

Maybe someone should put a thermocouple buried in the windings and an Non-contact IR thermocouple pointed at the can to get a ‘real’ measure. Until then all you can do is take the provided values as a guide and assume some reduced value for a limit from there.
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Old 08-01-2021, 01:48 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Thanks for making my point for me. No mfg list working or maybe a normal operating temp range. And the maximum temps are nowhere close to what anyone would expect after a normal flight.

Not sure what helis you fly, but you should measure the distance between some and the canopy. I can put my heat gun on its lowest setting, which not close to 300F, and it will flat out mangle a canopy and from 5" away from the gun. My Oxy 5 motor is a few mm away from the canopy.. The only ones I have that aren't fairly close is the Oxy 2 and P380. Don't say that 300F wouldn't mess up and melt or deform one unless you have tested it. You'd be surprised. And I didn't mean melt like butter, you always take everything so literal, point is the canopy would not keep its shape at that temp and likely be unusable.

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Old 08-01-2021, 01:55 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I've owned 20+ helis and this is the hottest of the bunch. I did temp gun it in the past and it wasn't alarmingly high (I'll do it again in the summer heat of 90 we're now experiencing to get a number), but cooler is better, so thought there might be some suggestions there. In one of those referenced 'many posts' someone offered a rule-of-thumb measure of , "Can you keep your finger on the motor for 3+ seconds" kind of benchmark.
I'll recheck the mechanics.

515kv. iKON gov
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Old 08-01-2021, 02:04 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I'd guess this is a Specter, right? I run my motor lash and tail belt (depending on which tail version you have) on the loose side and have never had temps go over 120-130. Neither of those need to be super tight, but both can increase temps if really tight. I run a 4530HS, so a little different there.

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Old 08-01-2021, 05:58 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCFred View Post
In one of those referenced 'many posts' someone offered a rule-of-thumb measure of , "Can you keep your finger on the motor for 3+ seconds" kind of benchmark.
2 seconds puts you in about the 50-60C range. As long as your not a masochist.

60C is kinda a magic number that most people will pull their hand away instinctively. YMMV
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Old 08-01-2021, 06:01 PM   #19 (permalink)
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RCFred, you can adjust the timing lower and see what that does. Try 5 degrees. I know the recommendation is 9, but that's just a starting point.
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Old 08-01-2021, 06:20 PM   #20 (permalink)
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when my goblin 500 was getting hot (motor and ESC both were - ESC was getting hot enough to produce warnings via telemetry) it was because I had the wrong gearing. Dropped the pinion tooth count and all was better. It was used heli. Someone had installed optional pinion for some reason.
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