Considering stretching my E5 to E5ss

[tonys-heli]

its prob the transmission assembly too far forward. mine needed a lil adjustment, had to slot the frame a bit.

[Freeskiken]

Originally Posted by tonys-heli

its prob the transmission assembly too far forward. mine needed a lil adjustment, had to slot the frame a bit.

I am working on stretching my E5. I put the new gears in to speed up the tail. Turning them by hand at first seemed to have a kind of notchyness. Maybe a little more in one spot. Turning them some more by hand now it seems better. It seems to turn smooth but still maybe still some gear noise.

The holes in the frame are round not slotted. Do the gears wear in ? Or should I take the main shaft out again and the transmission and slot the holes a little and put it back together?

[tonys-heli]

Originally Posted by Freeskiken

I am working on stretching my E5. I put the new gears in to speed up the tail. Turning them by hand at first seemed to have a kind of notchyness. Maybe a little more in one spot. Turning them some more by hand now it seems better. It seems to turn smooth but still maybe still some gear noise.

The holes in the frame are round not slotted. Do the gears wear in ? Or should I take the main shaft out again and the transmission and slot the holes a little and put it back together?

my frames weren't slotted either, but very easy to do. I didn't take the ms out. the trans pops right out on its own If I remember correctly. without slotting, you will hear gear noise due to them being tight.
I own a lot of helis, and the E5 platform is by far the best 550-700 heli around.

[Rodney Kirstine]

The holes in the frame are all slotted but they are very short slots. Also, if it's not a brand new frame, the slots have a tendency to will fill up with Loktite and appear to not be slotted.

[Freeskiken]

They appeared round. I tried to push the transmission back but it didn't seem to move. Should I take it out and file the holes a little ? Then push it back ? Is there supposed to be a little back lash it the gears ? They move smoothly....maybe they will wear in ?

[tonys-heli]

put it this way, I opened up the slots a little more. my trans didn't move either, now it does.

[Tek18x]

Im assuming my gears need to lash and bite to each other a little, if that makes sense. Maidan flight today.

[Rodney Kirstine]

I meant to add, if they do have Loktite in them, you can use a small needle file to clear them back out. You don't want to overdo it, just enough to allow the gears to run freely without binding.

[Tek18x]

Maiden flight went great. Need to work on a few Vbar settings, but otherwise it flew perfect.

[Rodney Kirstine]

[tonys-heli]

good job man it looks great

[Freeskiken]

Looks Great !!! Awesome.

[Freeskiken]

Originally Posted by Rodney Kirstine

The holes in the frame are all slotted but they are very short slots. Also, if it's not a brand new frame, the slots have a tendency to will fill up with Loktite and appear to not be slotted.

I took the screws out, tilted the transmission forward, cleaned out the holes with a round file, lengthened them a little, put it back together and it is very smooth now. That's what it needed.

[Freeskiken]

Originally Posted by Tek18x

They were, Matt sent me some M5 with shorter shoulders (not sure where they were on the website or part number came in their bag.

I am just going through my parts. I am going to stretch my E5S to a E5SS. I will need the M5 x 35mm bolts. Does any one know the correct bolt to use that the nut doesn't bottom out on the shank ?

Earlier in this post there is a parts list. And it shows the 121 T main gear. Do I need to run the E7 main gear instead of the E5 main gear ? Just that it is stronger ?

[Codepox]

The E7 main gear just gives you a slightly better gear ratio 10.08 instead of 9.92 and is stronger at the price of weight ~25g heavier.

For the blade bolt, these work perfect:
80-0532S Cap Head Shanked Bolt M5x32

[Freeskiken]

Originally Posted by Codepox

The E7 main gear just gives you a slightly better gear ratio 10.08 instead of 9.92 and is stronger at the price of weight ~25g heavier.

For the blade bolt, these work perfect:
80-0532S Cap Head Shanked Bolt M5x32

Thank you !!!! I have most of the parts. I just received my Hacker A50 14L 400KV motor.

I still have to get the E7SE main gear, the main blade bolts, the 11 tooth spur gear and some more 697mm blades.

The new style torque tube ends (they go over the outside of the tube instead of inside) I bought have pin to hold them on the tube and a sleeve that goes over to keep the pins in place ? But the pins you need don't come with the torque tube ends or the sleeves. So now I need to buy pins as well. Do you epoxy the plastic sleeves over the aluminum torque tube ends? Has anyone use these yet ?

[Codepox]

I use red loctite to hold the torque tube end and pin.
For the plastic pin retainer, I just use CA.

[gwright]

the very slightly higher gear ratio is nice, but the 119 (I think thats it) from the E5 is just fine from a strength standpoint. Not sure if I ever changed it or not but I may still have the 119 in one machine. I know i put the 121 in the other, but can't remember which is which

[Freeskiken]

It would be nice to have a little larger canopy for the E5 once you stretch it. It would have a bigger presence in the air.

With a bright red windshield. I am not too sure why manufacturers use black windshields. Very hard to see in low light, grey skies.

I doubt the E7 canopy would fit ?

[colemn615]

Any recommendations for a 6s SS??