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Electric Motors Winding and Repair Electric Motors Winding and Repair Discussion |
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07-10-2012, 04:07 AM | #1 (permalink) |
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My 4525 rewinding project
I got inspiration for this while a go, by reading HF and my local forum.
Got wires from elosal and insulation and varnish from brocott. Knipex pliers from local hardwarehell for 26eur Motip freeze spray from local garage I took motor apart, cutted old wires away. Stator removing from end was pain as I used mounting points for pushing stator away turn by turn. In between stator and screws there was different height of hard metal pieces. maybe leaving wires to stator would left it to one piece. but any way stator is now 3 parts and those glassfiber end insulates needs to be re build for good. Now question is, should I use cyanoacrylate for gluing stator lamelles or vernish and then use compression for whole stator pack? Cheers Sami
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Henseleit TDR 2011 | JR Vibe 50 | Goblin 380 KSE | Goblin Speed P850-50 4+4x1.6 DD 500KV | Goblin Urukay HK4530 5+4x1.5YY 540KV | Goblin 700 KSE | Jeti DS16 | VX1e | VX1 pro http://www.helifleet.com/SJo1 |
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07-10-2012, 05:44 AM | #2 (permalink) |
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I used ca for the stator insulation. Didn't find it nessecary to glue the insulation paper between the slots, worked fine as is once you get the hang of it. I'm also new to this so there may be better ways no doubt.
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07-11-2012, 12:31 AM | #3 (permalink) |
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Thanks G
Still need to get confirmation for stator lamelles, how to fix or build stator core. I read from one source that each lamel surface has insulation layer and that is for avoiding this eddy current? Maybe slow cure CA or varnish or some green or red locktite. I wish I could get help to choose right method to proceed forward with this stator core build / fix howto. I have gone through powerditto pages translated by g00gle ger 2 eng. There was this Laos 800 build started with stacking lamelles to tool and putting slotsstraight. What after that, maybe thin ca that wick or capillarly penetrates in between layers? Thanks Sami
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Henseleit TDR 2011 | JR Vibe 50 | Goblin 380 KSE | Goblin Speed P850-50 4+4x1.6 DD 500KV | Goblin Urukay HK4530 5+4x1.5YY 540KV | Goblin 700 KSE | Jeti DS16 | VX1e | VX1 pro http://www.helifleet.com/SJo1 |
07-11-2012, 01:12 AM | #4 (permalink) |
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this way was made, because these special plates havn't the little positioning points on the hammerstalks.
look here also: http://www.croco.powerditto.de/crocopaketieren.html by using the normal plates you dont need to glue them together. only the endplates have to be glued. http://www.powerditto.de/statorisolieren.html after this you can hold the package together for winding by using a thin cord or copper wire around the hammers, you don't want to wind at this moment. using YY scheme, you only need 4 free arms every time. this method spares time and effort. |
07-11-2012, 02:40 AM | #5 (permalink) |
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Thanks Powercroco,
Target is to wind this motor to 4525 Ultimate 5+6 YY or was that correct winding scheme? I have 1.32, 1,4 & 1,5mm wires from Elosal.
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Henseleit TDR 2011 | JR Vibe 50 | Goblin 380 KSE | Goblin Speed P850-50 4+4x1.6 DD 500KV | Goblin Urukay HK4530 5+4x1.5YY 540KV | Goblin 700 KSE | Jeti DS16 | VX1e | VX1 pro http://www.helifleet.com/SJo1 |
07-11-2012, 08:09 AM | #6 (permalink) |
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Depending (Ralph's favorite word) what your desired Kv is, the 5+6 YY is a good choice.
If it is your first wind, then you would maybe use a 1.32 or 1.4 mm wire. 1.25 would even be easier, but you don't have this wire available. Contrary to Ralph's suggestion, I'd glue the stator together with CA. Since it is your first one, it will be easier for you. Just hold the stator together and put some CA on the places where it has been apart. It'll pull itself in.
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Kind Regards ZT - TDR, No problem can be solved from the same level of consciousness that created it.(AE) |
07-11-2012, 02:15 PM | #7 (permalink) |
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Thank ZT,
Target is same 520 KV as 4525 Ultimate has. I have fixed stator with thin CA under compression of 20*70 bolt with stator size spacers I applied it all round then filed excess off with diamond file. Next will be insulation glassfiber sheet filing to the ends. Then winding begins with 1,4mm wire, if that look's good it will ne replaced with 1,5mm wire.
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Henseleit TDR 2011 | JR Vibe 50 | Goblin 380 KSE | Goblin Speed P850-50 4+4x1.6 DD 500KV | Goblin Urukay HK4530 5+4x1.5YY 540KV | Goblin 700 KSE | Jeti DS16 | VX1e | VX1 pro http://www.helifleet.com/SJo1 |
07-15-2012, 08:53 AM | #8 (permalink) |
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I got nice fiber glass pieces from one of my heli mate as He is doing custom windings too.
I managed to finish insulation filing and I'm pretty happy about result of it. Then I found these flat jaw Knipex pliers and as a lazy guy while visiting step fathers workshop I managed finish several pliers in good time with perfect tools polished jaws doesn't leave marks to wire. Next I need to start learning curve on world of winding.
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Henseleit TDR 2011 | JR Vibe 50 | Goblin 380 KSE | Goblin Speed P850-50 4+4x1.6 DD 500KV | Goblin Urukay HK4530 5+4x1.5YY 540KV | Goblin 700 KSE | Jeti DS16 | VX1e | VX1 pro http://www.helifleet.com/SJo1 |
07-23-2012, 02:40 AM | #9 (permalink) |
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I tried with 1,32mm wire and that was going well. I decied to start wrap 1,4mm wire from another point. It's going pretty well, so I removed those1,32mm wires and contnued with 1,4mm.
Now I have 1st stator started from inside 5 turns at bottom outside jump to 2nd stator winded in another 5 turns at bottom. Each stator slot have 1 wire out on top. Do I need to add turns or was it fine for 4525 ultimate. I recieved Megger from ebay and K2 kv/rpm/pwm meter from Aoerc Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
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Henseleit TDR 2011 | JR Vibe 50 | Goblin 380 KSE | Goblin Speed P850-50 4+4x1.6 DD 500KV | Goblin Urukay HK4530 5+4x1.5YY 540KV | Goblin 700 KSE | Jeti DS16 | VX1e | VX1 pro http://www.helifleet.com/SJo1 |
07-23-2012, 05:15 AM | #10 (permalink) |
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Ultimate is wound 5+6 for 520kv as per Scorpion specs. You need to count the wires inside the slots.
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07-23-2012, 10:10 AM | #11 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Before you go any further, scrape the insulation off of the wire ends and test the group, you just wound, against the stator for continuity and/or do a 1000 Volt test. Can you post a pic from the top and the bottom of the stator?
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Kind Regards ZT - TDR, No problem can be solved from the same level of consciousness that created it.(AE) |
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07-23-2012, 03:39 PM | #12 (permalink) |
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Ok, now I got it. From bottom view it is now 5 rounds from in to out jump's another stator out to in 5 rounds and for this last I'll add 1 round.
In case pliers slips and leaves mark to wire, would it be possible to fix this some other way than strip stator pair and rewound it? Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
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Henseleit TDR 2011 | JR Vibe 50 | Goblin 380 KSE | Goblin Speed P850-50 4+4x1.6 DD 500KV | Goblin Urukay HK4530 5+4x1.5YY 540KV | Goblin 700 KSE | Jeti DS16 | VX1e | VX1 pro http://www.helifleet.com/SJo1 |
07-23-2012, 03:53 PM | #13 (permalink) |
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Yeah, just ad one turn for each group and you'll have 5+6 then.
For insulation/repairing some minor scratches like this, I am using the electrical varnish from Brocott, which you have. It needs a while to dry. Full cure in about 24 hours.
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Kind Regards ZT - TDR, No problem can be solved from the same level of consciousness that created it.(AE) |
07-23-2012, 04:06 PM | #14 (permalink) |
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Thanks ZT
My progress is bit slow as I need watch over kid's too. This is My last holiday week and wife has planned some amusement park visit for kids. I'll hope it'll be ready by end of a week.
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Henseleit TDR 2011 | JR Vibe 50 | Goblin 380 KSE | Goblin Speed P850-50 4+4x1.6 DD 500KV | Goblin Urukay HK4530 5+4x1.5YY 540KV | Goblin 700 KSE | Jeti DS16 | VX1e | VX1 pro http://www.helifleet.com/SJo1 |
07-24-2012, 11:12 AM | #15 (permalink) |
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I had posed this very same question several month back.
Regarding insulation wire repairs using heat resistant paint works just as well. This was a recommendation directly from Ralph himself. SJo1 my first motor took over a week to do but once you get one under your belt the process is much faster. 12N10P motor now takes me about 2 to 3hrs. Making those nylon custom wedges demonstrated on Ralph site makes a world of difference with the process. It avoids all the different wood wedges and toothpick Using "Knipex" pliers when modified work very well to help stabilize and add equal linear pressure on the wire. Standard needle nose pliers slip and nick your insulation when doing larger O.D. wires like 1.4 mm |
07-25-2012, 12:09 AM | #16 (permalink) |
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using the right tools is the half of the way.
but of course, to buy / make them, makes only sense, if you plan to build more than only one motor. otherwise the tools are more expensive than let make someone experienced the winding for you. on the other hand, it's a uncompareable feeling to use an "own" motor. and to use a really own motor (selfconstructed - including plate shape, magnetic circle and housing) is the very best feeeling. ralph |
07-25-2012, 12:18 AM | #17 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Do you offer motor winding services? I have a Scorpion 4530-540 that I want to rewind to a lower kv for a Goblin 770. I will be using either a Kosmik or YGE 160. I am open to anything that will create a lot of power! I also have a Scorpion 4035-500 Id like to get rewound possibly to! I did find your website, but will need to do some translating! Thanks for any help you can provide! Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2 |
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07-25-2012, 01:41 PM | #18 (permalink) |
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No - I have no commercial winding service for offer.
only sometimes (very seldom) I do very special (extreme) windings on the newest scorpion-prototypes for my charities - but very expensive. but you can ask www.slowflyworld.de. They wind for money evrything you want. ralph |
07-25-2012, 04:02 PM | #19 (permalink) |
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I believe Dekker and GMauro offer rewinding services too.
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07-25-2012, 05:11 PM | #20 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2 |
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