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badheli1 · 03-08-2010, 02:22 AM

hey yall..just picked up one of these and it wobbles in FF...what could that be???

mvert · 03-13-2010, 07:54 PM

I'm having the same fun. Tail bobbing up and down and also sideways bobbing. So far I have replaced the tailshaft. Mainshaft Tail drive gear. shimmed the head dampners with tinfoil. added some carbon fiber 1mm stock underneath rotor blades to stiffen them. Nothing has helped other than when I change rotor blades. It goes away for a while then seems to creep back. With the current set of rotorblades I am only getting a bad up and down tail bobbing. I have no vibrations. and I'm running out of ideas. The bobbing gets worse in ff flight. This is not just light bobbing this is so bad you have to land. Anyone got any more Ideas?

R32dubber · 03-14-2010, 07:25 AM

I was having a lot of wobbling issues after my first decent crash. I read on another forum that was normally from the flybar paddles not even, or the screw holding the blades in (I have to retighten mine every few flights.). I also bent one of the flybar paddles up and had to correct it. If I help the heli down and applies power, I could see my flybar tryting to comensate which was causing the wobbling. If you see that too check the things above. Checking these things before each flight has been more common. Hope this helps.

Adam

mvert · 03-14-2010, 12:27 PM

Thanks, Adam, Your post got me to take a close look at my flybar this morning. I found that one of the pins that hold the flybar piviot into the head block was missing. I ground down a screw and made it fit Problem solved smooth as glass again. thanks again. Marc

R32dubber · 03-15-2010, 06:04 PM

NP, glad I could help. This is a fun little heli. It feels about as stable as a coax compared to my 4#3B. I've got the upgraded brushless motor from WOW hobbies on there (TurboAce 31714 I believe). Its been a nice little addition as it allows me to correct and recover easier. Now I'm just waiting for a nice calm day to take it outside and try to have some fun.

BTW, dont know if you are having this issue, but the linkages between my swashplate and flybar keep popping off in even the slightest crashes (ball on one end, ball socket on the other). I've already broken quite a few of them and I'd hate to lose one outside, I'd never find it. Guess I should stop crashing

. I'd stock up on a few extras. (I ordered some replacements from WOW and I thought the ball socket was too large. In fact, they had the wrong ball sockets mixed up on two of the linkages and I had to manually swap them over. Dont know if it was specific to WOW or if thats how they are coming from HK.)

mvert · 03-15-2010, 10:30 PM

Adam, I haven't had any problem with ball links or sockets yet. I got the 4#6 for my son to learn and he has had some major wipe outs. I have been amazed at how durable this thing is. I have a trex 600 and 450 and a 4g6. They wouldn't fare so well with the abuse . The hard part is I have a harder time flying his 4#6 than any of my helis. It is hard to sell him on it. when he watches me fly my helis and then when I fly the 4#6 I suck. It is just such a different cyclic thing. You have to keep the cyclic pinned to get forward flight. Anyway Im not very good at it. It has been fun however and the parts are cheap.

Mikegigabyte · 03-16-2010, 09:02 AM

I had the same thing, but if you trim a little from the tips of your blades it will almost all go away, Ive been running my blades trimmed for 3 weeks then threw on stock blades and had it do that real bad, just like when I first got it, forgot all about it.

Im also using the 4#3 flybar, its a little shorter but helps keep the toilet bowl effect down

mvert · 03-17-2010, 08:40 AM

About how much did you trim of the tips of your blades?

Mikegigabyte · 03-17-2010, 09:23 AM

originally I did 3 mm or so, but now ive doubled that and im seeing how that does. I believe it causes you to give a little more throttle to keep in the air, but alot of the bobble goes away, not all but most of it. I could make it bobble out of control and fall out of the air with the stock blades. I just cut at the same angle the tip was and I cut both blades at the same time to get an exact length, and I have coming a blade balancer so hopefully that can fine tune them. Im also using the 4#3 flybar too and have had good luck with reducing the TBE

mostinc · 02-20-2011, 09:03 PM

I agree with others...the main problem is usually a missing pin at the joint of the flybar (or Bell flybar) where it connects to the main shaft. You can tell quickly is one side can move up and the other cannot. Replacing the pin with a screw or another pin will do the trick. Same on most other copters.

Martydev · 02-22-2011, 05:58 PM

i just got my 4#6s friday took it to a warehouse today to fly it goes up then the tail dips back then toilet bowl affect backwards speeding up as it goes seems like i have no control of it every thing looks rite on the heli i really thought it would fly better . if i decrease the sensitivity will it give me more control or less control

Air Vaca · 02-23-2011, 09:42 AM

Most of the bobbing/shaking in the "S" models is caused by the gains being set too high. Lower gains will make it more responsive as the gyro isn't fighting the commands as much.

regards,
Bill

Martydev · 02-24-2011, 04:28 PM

i turned it down took it off bal tryed manual adjustments not much luck it nose dived bent flight bar just doesnt seem to fly good at all with auto balance why wont it just hoover up level .

Air Vaca · 02-24-2011, 09:46 PM

Put those DIPs back to factory positions. I flip the adjust DIP and then make my adjustments, then flip it back...I think this is the correct procedure, but may be wrong.

regards,
Bill

Martydev · 02-25-2011, 03:49 PM

will try that game for any thing ordered a bell hiller head last nite see if that helps me

glenno344 · 02-25-2011, 06:28 PM

the head will make a big difference... I have a novus 125 and had to do that just to get it to fly at all... the novus is a re-branded 4#6 by the way.. there fun when they fly but the effort to do so is tiresome and costly.................i have tried everything to fly this

over 300.00 into this HK piece of s!!t..................

Martydev · 02-26-2011, 09:31 AM

its like my cb100 i paid for two times in parts i hope this 4#6 dont do that to me but i will if i have to .

Air Vaca · 03-01-2011, 07:02 AM

I've found the 4#6S [novus125FP] a very low maintenance heli. What problems are you having?
The Bell/Hiller conversion really does help. You won't have to "lead" the heli so much. It's a lot more responsive.

regards,
Bill

Martydev · 03-03-2011, 06:11 PM

got the new head i wish i got a new main shaft i bent the shaft trying to take it apart so now waiting for new one to show up in the mail. working on 4#6 is easier than the my cb100 screws and parts bigger easier to see and handle i should have put more thought into the new head and bought a shaft with it and kept the old one together as a pair oh well now i know .

03-08-2010, 02:22 AM	#1 (permalink)
badheli1 Join Date: Jan 2010	wobbling or bobbling prob hey yall..just picked up one of these and it wobbles in FF...what could that be???

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03-13-2010, 07:54 PM	#2 (permalink)
mvert Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Jun 2009	I'm having the same fun. Tail bobbing up and down and also sideways bobbing. So far I have replaced the tailshaft. Mainshaft Tail drive gear. shimmed the head dampners with tinfoil. added some carbon fiber 1mm stock underneath rotor blades to stiffen them. Nothing has helped other than when I change rotor blades. It goes away for a while then seems to creep back. With the current set of rotorblades I am only getting a bad up and down tail bobbing. I have no vibrations. and I'm running out of ideas. The bobbing gets worse in ff flight. This is not just light bobbing this is so bad you have to land. Anyone got any more Ideas?

03-14-2010, 07:25 AM	#3 (permalink)
R32dubber Registered Users Join Date: Mar 2010	I was having a lot of wobbling issues after my first decent crash. I read on another forum that was normally from the flybar paddles not even, or the screw holding the blades in (I have to retighten mine every few flights.). I also bent one of the flybar paddles up and had to correct it. If I help the heli down and applies power, I could see my flybar tryting to comensate which was causing the wobbling. If you see that too check the things above. Checking these things before each flight has been more common. Hope this helps. Adam

03-14-2010, 12:27 PM	#4 (permalink)
mvert Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Jun 2009	Thanks, Adam, Your post got me to take a close look at my flybar this morning. I found that one of the pins that hold the flybar piviot into the head block was missing. I ground down a screw and made it fit Problem solved smooth as glass again. thanks again. Marc

03-15-2010, 06:04 PM	#5 (permalink)
R32dubber Registered Users Join Date: Mar 2010	NP, glad I could help. This is a fun little heli. It feels about as stable as a coax compared to my 4#3B. I've got the upgraded brushless motor from WOW hobbies on there (TurboAce 31714 I believe). Its been a nice little addition as it allows me to correct and recover easier. Now I'm just waiting for a nice calm day to take it outside and try to have some fun. BTW, dont know if you are having this issue, but the linkages between my swashplate and flybar keep popping off in even the slightest crashes (ball on one end, ball socket on the other). I've already broken quite a few of them and I'd hate to lose one outside, I'd never find it. Guess I should stop crashing . I'd stock up on a few extras. (I ordered some replacements from WOW and I thought the ball socket was too large. In fact, they had the wrong ball sockets mixed up on two of the linkages and I had to manually swap them over. Dont know if it was specific to WOW or if thats how they are coming from HK.)

03-15-2010, 10:30 PM	#6 (permalink)
mvert Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Jun 2009	Adam, I haven't had any problem with ball links or sockets yet. I got the 4#6 for my son to learn and he has had some major wipe outs. I have been amazed at how durable this thing is. I have a trex 600 and 450 and a 4g6. They wouldn't fare so well with the abuse . The hard part is I have a harder time flying his 4#6 than any of my helis. It is hard to sell him on it. when he watches me fly my helis and then when I fly the 4#6 I suck. It is just such a different cyclic thing. You have to keep the cyclic pinned to get forward flight. Anyway Im not very good at it. It has been fun however and the parts are cheap.

03-16-2010, 09:02 AM	#7 (permalink)
Mikegigabyte Registered Users Join Date: Mar 2010	I had the same thing, but if you trim a little from the tips of your blades it will almost all go away, Ive been running my blades trimmed for 3 weeks then threw on stock blades and had it do that real bad, just like when I first got it, forgot all about it. Im also using the 4#3 flybar, its a little shorter but helps keep the toilet bowl effect down

03-17-2010, 08:40 AM	#8 (permalink)
mvert Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Jun 2009	About how much did you trim of the tips of your blades?

03-17-2010, 09:23 AM	#9 (permalink)
Mikegigabyte Registered Users Join Date: Mar 2010	originally I did 3 mm or so, but now ive doubled that and im seeing how that does. I believe it causes you to give a little more throttle to keep in the air, but alot of the bobble goes away, not all but most of it. I could make it bobble out of control and fall out of the air with the stock blades. I just cut at the same angle the tip was and I cut both blades at the same time to get an exact length, and I have coming a blade balancer so hopefully that can fine tune them. Im also using the 4#3 flybar too and have had good luck with reducing the TBE

02-20-2011, 09:03 PM	#10 (permalink)
mostinc Registered Users Join Date: Jan 2011	I agree with others...the main problem is usually a missing pin at the joint of the flybar (or Bell flybar) where it connects to the main shaft. You can tell quickly is one side can move up and the other cannot. Replacing the pin with a screw or another pin will do the trick. Same on most other copters.

02-22-2011, 05:58 PM	#11 (permalink)
Martydev Registered Users Join Date: Feb 2010	i just got my 4#6s friday took it to a warehouse today to fly it goes up then the tail dips back then toilet bowl affect backwards speeding up as it goes seems like i have no control of it every thing looks rite on the heli i really thought it would fly better . if i decrease the sensitivity will it give me more control or less control

02-23-2011, 09:42 AM	#12 (permalink)
Air Vaca Registered Users Join Date: Dec 2010	Most of the bobbing/shaking in the "S" models is caused by the gains being set too high. Lower gains will make it more responsive as the gyro isn't fighting the commands as much. regards, Bill

02-24-2011, 04:28 PM	#13 (permalink)
Martydev Registered Users Join Date: Feb 2010	i turned it down took it off bal tryed manual adjustments not much luck it nose dived bent flight bar just doesnt seem to fly good at all with auto balance why wont it just hoover up level .

02-24-2011, 09:46 PM	#14 (permalink)
Air Vaca Registered Users Join Date: Dec 2010	Put those DIPs back to factory positions. I flip the adjust DIP and then make my adjustments, then flip it back...I think this is the correct procedure, but may be wrong. regards, Bill

02-25-2011, 03:49 PM	#15 (permalink)
Martydev Registered Users Join Date: Feb 2010	will try that game for any thing ordered a bell hiller head last nite see if that helps me

02-25-2011, 06:28 PM	#16 (permalink)
glenno344 Registered Users Join Date: Jan 2011	the head will make a big difference... I have a novus 125 and had to do that just to get it to fly at all... the novus is a re-branded 4#6 by the way.. there fun when they fly but the effort to do so is tiresome and costly.................i have tried everything to fly this over 300.00 into this HK piece of s!!t..................

02-26-2011, 09:31 AM	#17 (permalink)
Martydev Registered Users Join Date: Feb 2010	its like my cb100 i paid for two times in parts i hope this 4#6 dont do that to me but i will if i have to .

03-01-2011, 07:02 AM	#18 (permalink)
Air Vaca Registered Users Join Date: Dec 2010	I've found the 4#6S [novus125FP] a very low maintenance heli. What problems are you having? The Bell/Hiller conversion really does help. You won't have to "lead" the heli so much. It's a lot more responsive. regards, Bill

03-03-2011, 06:11 PM	#19 (permalink)
Martydev Registered Users Join Date: Feb 2010	got the new head i wish i got a new main shaft i bent the shaft trying to take it apart so now waiting for new one to show up in the mail. working on 4#6 is easier than the my cb100 screws and parts bigger easier to see and handle i should have put more thought into the new head and bought a shaft with it and kept the old one together as a pair oh well now i know .

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