300X - motor and ESC alternatives?

[SHYguy]

All three motors take the std 3mm screws.

EDIT: Note! The Turnigy has two 2,5mm holes and two 3mm holes, so make sure you use the right ones!

[SHYguy]

Now, as already discovered by sn00p, you can't really use the 3mm screws for the Turnigy. The problem is that the screw holes sit too far apart to fit the motour mount. You'd have to dremel away too much material, leaving no support for the screw heads.

So you need to find a couple of 2,5 mm screws for the Turnigy. Those holes are closer to the center, and fit the 300X motor mount:


The 2,5 mm holes line up with the mount


3mm vs 2,5 mm screws


I used a "sleeve" that often comes with servos to keep the 2,5mm screws in place in the motor mount. Just needed to dremel away the lip.


Then I put on a large washer, an "exploding" washer, finally the sleeve.


You need to really bend the wires in order to pry it into place. And you need to open the frame a bit in the front in order to get the mount in or out.


Turnigy mounted and ready to go!

For the Wicked it was much easier. You mount it exactly like the stock motor, with 3mm screws.

As to the pinons - on both the Turnigy and Wicked, push it as far in as it goes, then secure. It should be approx 12,1 mm from the top of the pinion down to the motor itself.

Btw I did test at the same time some alu aftermarket parts. The MH head doesen't seem to run 100% true, anyone else experienced this? This is with a new 100% straight main shaft. I'm a bit sceptical as to that "clamp solution" where the follower arms are mounted - can you kinda adjust here as to the straightness of the alu head?

The MH alu main blade grips need smaller dia thrust bearing, which was missing in the pack Anyone else tried these?

And OMG that main gear... it's just HORRIBLE how badly cast those are! I really REALLY hope we can get some decent CNC machined gears SOON!!! Gear mesh is super tight on one side, and way too loose on the other side

[sohor1]

Originally Posted by Dylwad

10 tooth, HiModel Cool 33a blheli 9.4, default settings. Approx 3400 rpm. Sab main blades.

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Can you post the links to the parts? What are your flight times like with the stock battery? If you're not using the stock battery, which battery are you using and what r ur flight times on it?

Thnx

[master65]

Ive fitted my wicked motor and paired it with a align RCE-BL35P. I have the esc set to low timing as per the little note in the motor box and govener on with soft start. what voltage can I set the esc bec to. I have a choice of 5,5.5 and 6v. I am running the standard cyclic servos and a align ds425 tail servo. I know the ds425 can be safely run at 6v but what about the eflight cyclic servos?

[SHYguy]

Originally Posted by master65

Ive fitted my wicked motor and paired it with a align RCE-BL35P. I have the esc set to low timing as per the little note in the motor box and govener on with soft start. what voltage can I set the esc bec to. I have a choice of 5,5.5 and 6v. I am running the standard cyclic servos and a align ds425 tail servo. I know the ds425 can be safely run at 6v but what about the eflight cyclic servos?

4.8 - 6.0 V

http://www.bladehelis.com/Products/D...rodID=EFLRDS76

[master65]

Originally Posted by SHYguy

4.8 - 6.0 V

http://www.bladehelis.com/Products/D...rodID=EFLRDS76

Many thanks, just wasn't sure 6v wouldn't kill the cyclic servos.

[DoubleCH]

Originally Posted by SHYguy

Now, as already discovered by sn00p, you can't really use the 3mm screws for the Turnigy. The problem is that the screw holes sit too far apart to fit the motour mount. You'd have to dremel away too much material, leaving no support for the screw heads.

So you need to find a couple of 2,5 mm screws for the Turnigy. Those holes are closer to the center, and fit the 300X motor mount:

So with the 3mm screw holes, even if you move one to the furthest forward in one motor mounting plate slot and the other on the furthest rearward in the other slot they're still too far apart?

[DoubleCH]

Originally Posted by SHYguy

Love your home-made frame braces. I was thinking something similar before coming across your pic here.

[SHYguy]

Originally Posted by DoubleCH

Love your home-made frame braces. I was thinking something similar before coming across your pic here.

Thx man! Works wonders! Even better is a dab of hot glue between the two rear servos, that really stiffen things up!

I'll check out that diagonal idea! Why didn't I think of that!

[kpod]

My wicked motor and cool33a esc should be installed tonight. I have good weather tomorrow. Can't wait to give it a try. The cool33 looks tiny compared to the eflight esc. I'll have to weigh them tonight.

[kpod]

Originally Posted by Dylwad

10 tooth, HiModel Cool 33a blheli 9.4, default settings. Approx 3400 rpm. Sab main blades.

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http://helidirect.com/sab-redwhitebl...ht-p-21188.hdx

Are these the sab blades you are running?

[Dylwad]

Originally Posted by kpod

http://helidirect.com/sab-redwhitebl...ht-p-21188.hdx

Are these the sab blades you are running?

Those are the ones

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[SHYguy]

D, how do they feel compared to the Blade carbons?

[sohor1]

When will the Wicked motor be in stock again? Where can I find the ESC for it? Will the stock ESC work just fine or?

[kpod]

Originally Posted by Dylwad

Those are the ones

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Am I missing something? I've got it all hooked up and the ESC is as apparently already armed. When I go to arm, it starts spooling up. I'm on blheli 9.4 with stock settings.

[Dylwad]

Originally Posted by kpod

Am I missing something? I've got it all hooked up and the ESC is as apparently already armed. When I go to arm, it starts spooling up. I'm on blheli 9.4 with stock settings.

Read the instructions for 9.xx, blheli arms just like any other esc with ppm input, you only have to arm it with some throttle on an mcpx or the like with pwm input so it can learn the signal.

Ppm is always putting out a signal, so the esc Learns it right away and arms if it sees 0 throttle signal, pwm puts out no signal of any kind at 0 throttle.

All is normal im running 75%flat on idle 2.

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[Dylwad]

Originally Posted by SHYguy

D, how do they feel compared to the Blade carbons?

I have never flown the blade carbons, I like the sabs better than the MH carbons. They are smoother, and have a little less pop, but are more precise.

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[kpod]

Are you running stock dampeners? I should be getting lynx dampeners tomorrow.

I was able to do a test hover and a few pitch pumps. It seems to be running smooth. I do have a slight tail kick to the right on pitch pumps that I need to get dialed out. I put a tarot radial bearing hub on it so I think my tail kick is due to that.

[Dylwad]

Originally Posted by kpod

Are you running stock dampeners? I should be getting lynx dampeners tomorrow.

I was able to do a test hover and a few pitch pumps. It seems to be running smooth. I do have a slight tail kick to the right on pitch pumps that I need to get dialed out. I put a tarot radial bearing hub on it so I think my tail kick is due to that.

Completely stock head and swash. I had to dial the collective down a bit with the wicked/10 tooth, and adjusted the tail comp or whatever it's called on the beastx. None of my beastx settings are default.

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[kpod]

I've got some time and good weather today to try and get the beast dialed in and start playing with the esc. I think I'm also going to try cutting some weight off tonight to see how light I can get it. The cool 33a esc is tiny compared to the stock esc. I couldn't find my scales last night to weigh it before installing but it has to be lighter. I would think the weight saved on the esc may offset the weight added by the wicked motor.

Adding the 255 blades should add around 50 square inches of disc area. Cutting down weight and adding the sab 255 blades with this motor esc combo should make the 300x act like I want it to.