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Old 02-18-2018, 06:56 AM   #61 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by joecass2 View Post
I have the 16T pinion on my V1 and like it a lot. Do you think in the future they will make that a option?
No idea, we would have to ask Josef. Maybe one of the team guys knows.
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Old 02-18-2018, 11:08 AM   #62 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jharkin View Post
No idea, we would have to ask Josef. Maybe one of the team guys knows.
Ok if you guys ever find out let me know. Do you guys know if there going to stop making V1 parts looks like they pulled some V1 parts from the website. Like the clutch bell
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Old 04-16-2018, 12:40 AM   #63 (permalink)
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I have started the conversion on the tt. I know the sleeves that the tt bearings ride on have to be glued to the tt shaft, but do the bearings have to be glued to the sleeve as well? Otherwise one of the two cups will want to slide off when put in the tail boom(the cups are put on in opposite directions)or is there some other way to do it.
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Old 04-16-2018, 05:25 AM   #64 (permalink)
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I followed the manual and used retainer on the sleeve to the tube only. Those sleeves slide pretty freely onto the tube, and greasing the Orings before sliding the whole thing down the boom made it slide easy enough that nothing came loose.
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Old 04-16-2018, 04:10 PM   #65 (permalink)
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My concern is after gluing the sleeve to the tube what keeps the cup with the bearing inside of it on the sleeve, because the cups face opposite directions. One cup assembly will push against the sleeve and stay but the other cup assembly will just slide off the sleeve when installing inside of the tail boom. Maybe I am just over thinking it.
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Old 04-16-2018, 07:43 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Dunno. I followed the manual exactly and it's been good for something like 60 flights now. If you want to glue the bearing onto the sleeve, there's no negative to it if that makes you feel better, I just didn't have any issues with it the way the manual said.
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Old 04-16-2018, 09:52 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Thanks I will do as the manual states especially if you didn't have any problems.
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Old 05-08-2018, 10:13 AM   #68 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jharkin View Post
The cutoff wheel wont really work with the templates. You need two approaches.

First is the large material removals to widen the gear cutout, etc. For this the best thing to use is a dremel sanding drum. It will cut the carbon frames like butter and you can ride it right along the SS template without fear.

The only downside is it wont get into the tight corners. For that I use a dremel multipurpose drill/mill bit.. You have to work slow here as it doesn't really side cut the carbon well. Its workable but takes time.



For the holes and slotted holes, Larry pointed me to these full carbide stub drills available at Henley tool. This is a 3/32 carbide stub - its a little small but you can side cut with it like and end mil and work your way around the slots riding the template.

BE CAREFUL! Even the carbide drill has a hard time side cutting and if you lean on it with too much pressure you can snap it (ask me how I know good thing I thought to order two)

I thought of a few different approaches for cutting... First I was going to do it on the drill press, then I considered using the dremel with the router attachment to guide it... but both proved cumbersome and in the end free handing it was the least problematic.

Yes, I know this sounds iffy for keeping the tolerances tight, but remember that you are only modifying a couple holes and most of the main and pinion gear blocks will still be positioned by the other CNC cut factory holes.


Remember all your carbon safety precautions - use a shop vac while cutting and wear a mask.
Great tips! I just ordered the V2 nitro conversion kit and this will come in handy when it's time.
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