Strange motor cut out

[Allan114]

I was flying my stock 180 this morning and about 1/2 way through the battery. I was doing some sport flying with a few loops rolls and inverted with no high pitch maneuvers. All of a sudden the heli tilted a bit and almost instantly the motor cut. Fortunately it fell into tall grass so no damage. I recovered it, the motor was cool and everything was working normally. I managed to fly on as if nothing had happened. I also flew another battery through it without incident.

Any idea why it did this, I can't see any bad connections - did it monentarily lose contact with the Tx?

[salrica]

Bad bullet connector soldering.
Peel off heat shrink and re-solder, mine did the same, it looked right but when I peeled off the heat shrink there were just a few strands of the motor wire holding the connector.
Nothing to loose doing it
I would check ESC's as well

[MariaFan]

I mounted the ESC on the right side of the frame so the motor wires wouldn't have that sharp bend.

[Morrchew]

It's odd mine did the same today . I took off all blades a ran a few cycles through it with no success. Motor just dies and than back on again , I have played with the wiring and that's not the cause I guess it's the esc . Not know what else to check .

[JonJet]

Are you flying in Idle Up (stunt) Mode?

In Normal Mode the stock configuration of the Talon 15 will cut the motor power if you go lower than 25 collective (left) stick

To solve that condition in Normal Mode...re-program the Talon 15 to Gov High Mode using the CastleLink software and its update cable...that way the Throttle Curve on your TX controls the motor

(You can also do the Auto-Lipo setting to use 2S/3S/4S batteries)

Stunt Modes are not affected by the >25 collective stick position

[Morrchew]

I've been flying this bird of mine for over a year and it must have 100 flights on it . I did not change any settings or anything it just started acting up .

[lbv61]

I agree with salrica. Also pull lightly on the bullet ends and look for insulator stretch. I have had a broken wire up inside the insulation on the motor side give the same symptoms.

[learnedthehardway]

Did you have control of the servos the whole time so you're you sure it only lost the motor and didn't cut out completely for a second?

The JST connector on mine got sloppy after a while so the male pins no longer made good contact instead the female pins. On mine the power arcing across it eventually damaged the pos wire on the esc before anything issues showed then it started cutting out. Almost cooked the wire in half but it still looked fine.

Thought it was the motor at first since the servos ect were working by the time I got over to it but wiggling the wires showed it was cutting out completely.

Probably a damaged wire, connector or solder joint. Especially if it works then doesn't work, usually a bad connection/short. When a motor or esc goes bad it's something you can see or smell and it's curtains more often than not, but anything's possible.

[Allan114]

The motor is the brand new one fitted last week so I hope its not dodgy. I remade the bullet connections on the esc side as this is quite old. Nothing looked faulty.

I was also in stunt mode when flying so the 25% throttle issue shouldn't be a factor. Also I didn't see if the servos were working in the air but on recovery they were working fine. I can check the battery connector next.

This said since then I've had about 6 flights and no recurrences.

[FR4-Pilot]

Also check the 3-wires (GND, 5V and PWM) between the ESC and the AR6335 for nicks or cuts, especially where they cross the CF frame - those edges can be sharp and will cut wires ...

Or (very carefully), spool up on the bench (remove main and tail blades first) and go around pushing,moving,poking,gently tugging wires to see if you can get the motor to skip, stutter or stop. If so you have a bad/broken/intermittent connection in that wire.

[Allan114]

Cheers - will do.