Build Thread - XCell Whiplash Gas

[carey shurley]

Now the complete tail boom can be installed in the chassis

these are the additional parts needed to complete the installation


Parts to install tail boom

the tail boom will easily slip into the rear of the model between the frame plates. The goal is to align the mount holes and to align the t/r drive gear with the main drive gear in the chassis


Tail Boom position

position the boom so that the five M3 bolt holes align with the frame as shown. Install M3 x 8 socket head bolts in these holes using blue thread lock. Don't install the bolt that mounts the top of the front t/r transmission just yet, that will be done in the next step. Fully tighten these


Tail boom installed - right bolts

Now install the same bolts on the other side of the frame using blue thread lock


Tail boom installed - left bolts

Select the final frame spacer which has 4mm threaded openings and position it between the frame halves as shown


Position for rear boom support frame support

the boom supports are fully assembled from the factory. The ends are not perfectly flat, they have a slight angle to allow for mounting on the tail boom. The boom ends have a small dimple in them. This dimple is on the side that the end curves inward towards.


Boom support identifier

Select the two tail boom supports and connect them to the frame using the longer M4 bolts and serrated lockwashers and into the previously positioned M4 spacer. Don't fully tighten these yet


Boom braces installed to frame

The boom supports ends should angle inwards in the front on the chassis. So the dimple should be on the inside of the boom supports, facing each other


Boom Support rear - direction identifier

Now use shorter M4 socket head bolts and serrated washers to connect the other end of the boom supports to the tail boom support clamp as shown. Don't fully tighten yet


Boom braces installed on boom clamp

again the dimples indicate the side of the end that they angle towards. on the rear mount they should angle outward so the dimples should be visible on both sides


Boom Support front - direction identifier

slide the t/r control far enough forward that the tail boom support clamp will fit on the tail boom and then grab the tail boom support clamp and pull it against the tail boom as shown.


Boom support clamp position

install the top half of the boom support clamp using M3 socket head bolts and blue thread lock. Fully tighten but do so evenly between the two bolts such that the gap betwen the edges of the upper and lower clamp halves is equal. Go back and fully tighten all four of the M4 boom support mount bolts using blue thread lock


Install boom support clamp top

select the final black control link, pull the t/r control rod back past the end of the t/r transmission and thread the link onto it so that about 1/2 of the threads are visible. This will be final adjusted in a later step


Rear control link installed

This completes assembly of the tail boom/tail rotor

Video Build Narrative



Next Step

Control System

[carey shurley]

There are only three sets of control rods remaining to be installed for the FBL rotor head installation

• the throttle rod
• the rotor head control rods
• the swashplate control rods

here are the parts to complete these. The throttle rod will be assembled in a later step


Control rod parts

Assemble the control rods as shown, the correct lengths are listed in the manual.


Control rods assembled

the control rods for the FBL rotor head are installed as shown


Control Rods installed

The control rods will be final adjusted after the electronics are installed

Video Build Narrative



Next Step

Install Canopy Mounts

[carey shurley]

In this step the stock canopy mounts will be assembled/installed as will the canopy. These are the parts needed to install the canopy


Parts to install canopy

here you can see the assembled canopy knobs as well as the canopy mounts. Use thread lock on all of the M3 bolts shown. The shorter canopy mounts will be in the front of the chassis and the longer ones will be in the rear


Canopy mounts assembled

All of the canopy mounts attach to the frame with a graphite plate. One bolt must be installed on each of them to attach it to the chassis. This makes it a sacrificial part in the event of a crash. The chassis has been designed so that the canopy mount required bolts completes a prior assembly on the chassis

the required bolt on the rear canopy mounts threads into the top mount on the front t/r transmission. Use blue thread lock to install these


Left rear canopy mount - required mount

should you chose to install the second bolt on the rear canopy mount, it threads into a PEM nut in the frame. Use blue thread lock. Using this additional bolt will reduce the amount of canopy vibration but increased the chance for canopy/frame damage in the event of a crash


Left rear canopy mount - optional mount

The same applies for the front canopy mount, the required bolt completes the connection of the radio tray to the chassis by threading into the center frame mount attached to the bottom of the radio tray as shown


Left front canopy mount - required mount

The optional bolt mount for the front canopy mount also threads into a PEM nut. If you chose to use it, install with blue thread lock as shown


Left front canopy mount - optional mount

Install the canopy mounts on the opposite side of the chassis using the same procedure


Right canopy mounts installed

Video Build Narrative



Next Step

Install Canopy

[carey shurley]

The Whiplash canopy will be packaged in a separate box and wrapped to prevent damage. Remove it from the box and remove all wrapping


Whiplash canopy

We're initially only going to connect the front part of the canopy to the model. So with a marker, make a mark in the center of the two recesses on the lower front of the canopy. These are for the front canopy mounts.


Front canopy holes marked

use a small drill (less than .30" in diameter) to drill pilot holes where you marked the canopy


Front canopy pilot holes

the best way to size the holes in these canopies is with a ream. I use a Kyosho ream as shown. The holes in the canopy need to be .30" in diameter. I use a dial caliber to find the spot on the ream that is .30" in diameter and mark it with tape as shown. Now I can use ream into the hole until the tape bottoms out on the canopy and the hole will be the correct size. This is repeatable


Ream marked for .30"

carefully ream the two front canopy holes for the correct size


Ream front canopy holes

the ream will make a clean hole and not damage the factory applied paint


Reamed front canopy holes

select two of the canopy grommets and carefully install them into the canopy as shown. Apply a small amount of thin CA around the edge of the grommets ONLY ON THE INSIDE of the canopy!! Be careful, CA will damage the clear coat on the outside of the canopy so don't get any on it.


Install front canopy grommets

Install the canopy on the model but only install the front two mount bolts as shown for now


Canopy front mounted

look inside the canopy where the canopy meets the previously installed rear canopy mounts. Mark the canopy so that you are sure where the rear holes need to be cut in the canopy to properly align with the frame mounts


Verify rear canopy positions

Drill the rear canopy pilot holes from the INSIDE of the canopy using the marks you just made. They should align with the rear canopy mount dimples but using this process ensures a proper fit. I found that the holes were in the exact center of the canopy recesses. Ream the holes, install the grommets as before and use the remaining canopy mount bolts to attach the rear of the canopy to the chassis as shown


Canopy mounted

Construction of the model is now complete. Now the electronics can be installed and the model setup to fly

Video Build Narrative



Next Step

Install Electronics

[carey shurley]

In this step, all of the electronics will be installed, connected and wires routed

here are the kit parts for this which include the servo side balls and the throttle rod


Servo Mounting parts

here are the electronics being used, since this is version is FBL it includes an FBL controller. Also this will be a HV setup so no regulator will be used. Because the throttle servo is not HV, as 5v step down resistor will be connected for it


Electronics used

Without a regulator, converting the larger EC3/Deans connector to something that can be connected into the Rx can be a problem. Fromeco makes this adapter which converts larger connectors into small Futaba/JR connectors. I'm going to use it instead of a switch


Battery connector

As mentioned earlier, the servo mounts include the ability to adjust the servo position depending on the size/height of the servo.

The purpose of this is to allow the control rods to be straight or parallel to the mainshaft between the servo and the swashplate. Depnding on servo size, this may require minor adjustments using spacers

For taller servos, include this plate between the Ail/Pit servo posts. If you're using JR servos you should have done this in an earlier step for ease of assembly


Servo post position spacer

If you are using servos that are smaller, you can add an additional spacer between the servo and the post to push it more towards the main shaft


Servo position spacer

Most FBL systems assume that the pitch servo is at the 10o'clock position of the swashplate when viewed from above. So the pitch servo is installed on the left side of the model as shown. Use 2.5mm socket head bolts and blue thread lock. Tighten according to your servo manufacturers recommendation. All of the servo installations will use a graphite retainer plate on top of the servo mount


Pitch servo installed

the aileron servo will mount on the right side of the model as shown


Aileron servo installed

The elevator servo first mounts to the aluminum spacers shown. Use 2.5mm socket head bolts and a servo retainer plate


Elevator servo support - top

here's how the bottom of the spacers look when attached to the servo


Elevator servo support - bottom

The elevator goes behind the swashplate on the left side of the model. The servo output will be positioned as shown. This will mount to the frame from the outside


Elevator servo installed

The elevator servo spacers mount from the outside of the frame as shown using 2.5mm socket head bolts and blue thread lock


Elevator servo supports mounted

The throttle servo mounts here, facing the outside of the model using 2.5mm bolts and servo retainers. Make sure you use thread lock on these bolts


Throttle servo mounted

Finally the rudder servo will use these two plastic servo spacers to better center it between the frames. The longer 2.5mm bolts install using servo retainers as shown


Rudder servo assembly

Here is the rudder servo position and orientation from inside of the frame


Rudder servo position

And here you can see the rudder servo installed from the outside of the frame. Again make sure you use thread lock on these bolts


Rudder servo installed

Now that the servos are in, we can concentrate on the main components. Mount the gyro sensor on the sensor palte in the front of the model as shown. Use the manufacturers recommended mounting componts. As a general rule, FBL sensors should be hard mounted especially on gas helicopters


Gyro sensor position

The gyro plate has slots on each side that allow for wrapping it with velcro for added security


Gyro sensor secured

Here are the rest of the radio components in place. On the right side you can see the main power cable. I installed the power adapter on the underside of the battery plate. I removed it to simplify this process and then re-installed it.


Radio tray components - power cable

There are no fixed requirements for how to install your radio components. What is shown is one example. Make sure the components are properly affixed to the chassis and secured

Also make sure any wiring connections are secure and where possible use additional security methods on any connectors. There are slots cut in the frame at strategic locations to allow the use of tie wraps or velcro to secure any wires that run along the frames. The kit also includes the traditional wire retainers that clip over the end of M3 socket head bolts. Make sure any wires can't get into any moving parts


Radio tray components

At this point the radio system is installed an wired ready to complete the radio system setup

Video Narrative





Next Step

Setup

[carey shurley]

There are a number of optional accessories that you can add to your Whiplash gas that can improve its aesthetics or function. Here are a few


Skid Plugs


the std model does not come with plugs/ends for the skids. Some people like they way these look and some don't. They can be easily added


Skid Plugs - MA3937-1

These simply push into the ends of the skids. If they don't fit tightly use thick CA to secure them


Skid plugs position

here you can see them installed


Skid plugs installed


High Volume Air Filter


the std Zenoah/CY RC motor includes a foam air cleaner. If you'd like to add a larger volume air cleaner, and have the option to add a design or color to the air filter you might be interested in one of these


Air Filter - MA125-122

In order to install, first remove the stock air filter. When you remove the two mount bolts, the filter and carburetor will come off, this is normal.


Remove stock air filter

Remove the two long bolts from the air filter and install them through the new air filter base plate. The filter includes an additional spacer which must be installed between the air filter/carb. This is in addition to the std spacer included with the motor. This is important to prevent the bolts from driving into the cylinder


Replace base plate/spacer

Tighten up the base plate/carburetor as shown


Base plate installed

The air filter simply slides over the 3 spacers


Air filter element installed

here you can see the air cleaner fully installed


Air filter installed

another example of a customized air filter plate


Custom air filter cover plate

Stator Gator


If you intend to use a governor, you will need to position a sensor near the magneto on the motor to trigger the sensor. An alternative is to use something called a Stator Gator which is a plug in sensor trigger

you can read extensively about the Stator Gator HERE


Stator Gator - GGS-23

the stator gator is fairly easy to install, use a screwdriver to remove the kill switch from the motor


Remove kill switch

replace the kill switch with the SG sensor pickup


Install sensor pickup

The pickup simply pushes into the motor fan shroud


Sensor pickup installed

The control unit can be installed on the airframe and the output will connect with a governor


Stator Gator Control installed


ADA - Air Scoop


The Zenoah RC motor comes out of the box with a pull starter. Some people like to use pull starters, others don't. The pull starter reduces the ground clearance under the motor by about 1/2". If you don't care about pull starting I would recommend you replace it with one of these air scoops


Air Scoop - ADA GPASRC

Its very simple to remove the pull starter, simply remove the four phillips head bolts


Remove pull starter

install the air scoop in place of the pull starter and tighten with blue thread lock


Air Scoop installed

with the scoop installed, you can see the additional ground clearance gained


Improved ground clearance


Video Narrative



Next Step

Mufflers

[carey shurley]

In this step we'll go over the muffler options. At one time there were NO optional mufflers. You used the std muffler that came with the motor and that was that. Now there are several options

There are several implications for each muffler

• sound
• weight
• balance
• performance
• cost

Common muffler options

The first is the std Zenoah muffler that usually comes with the motor. It fits the model with no modifications. Its made of thin steel

Characteristics

• sound - awful, its loud and has a raspy sound
• weight - 5oz
• balance - does not affect balance
• performance - from tests I have seen adds no performance improvement
• cost - very cheap

Zenoah Standard Muffler Mounted

This is the Century Torpedo V5 muffler. It fits the model with no modifications and is made of rather heavy aluminum. It is unusual in that it comes with optional reducers that affect the noise level and back pressure

Characteristics

• sound - good, somewhat throaty
• weight - 13oz
• balance - does not affect balance
• performance - from tests I have seen, supports a wide power band
• cost - mid range

Century Torpedo V5 Mounted

This is the Century Torpedo Slim V2. It slightly interferes with the canopy near the front and would require minor trimming. It is made of lightweight aluminum. It also comes with reducers that affect both sound level and backpressure

Characteristics

• sound - louder than the V5 but not raspy
• weight - 8.5oz
• balance - causes the model to be just slightly tail heavy
• performance - from tests I have seen reduces performance on engines larger than 20cc
• cost - mid range

Century Torpedo Slim V2 Mounted

This is the Hatori 957 also know as the SAB-12. It mounts with no modifications and is made of a mid thickness aluminum.

Characteristics

• sound - very nice, similar to glow models
• weight - 11.7 oz
• balance - does not affect balance
• performance - from tests I have seen can add performance at different points in the power range
• cost - very expensive

Hatori 957 - SAB-12 Mounted


This is the Hatori 956 also known as the SAB-12F-2. It mounts with no modifications and is constructured of a mid thickness aluminum

Characteristics

• sound - very nice, similar to glow models
• weight - 13.5 oz
• balance - makes the model just slightly tail heavy
• performance - from tests I have seen has added the highest performance at specific RPM ranges.
• cost - very expensive

Hatori 956 - SAB-12F-2


There is another muffler that I don't have, its the RJX Gas Muffler. Its dimensionally an exact copy of this Hatori muffler. Its made of heavier aluminum and is the heaviest of this group. As it is identical to the Hatori SAB-12, it will mount with no interference

Characteristics

• sound - similar to the SAB12 but slightly throatier
• weight - 14.6oz
• balance - no impact
• performance - from tests I have seen has added performance at specific RPM ranges.
• cost - the second least expensive

There is some more detailed info about these mufflers HERE

Video Narrative



Next Step

Setup

[carey shurley]

Before you can proceed with the setup, you'll need to install the servo arms and control balls and connect the linkages.

Power up the Tx and Rx systems

First step is to make sure all of the servos are centered. Make sure that the sticks and trims are centered.


All sticks centered

Then make sure the throttle and pitch curves that are active are set for 0% or centered at the center position. Also make sure the gyro is set for Normal mode and not in AVCS or hold mode. That will ensure the T/R servo is centered as well


Ail/Ele/Pit/TR/Throttle servo signal at center

Now make sure the FBL system is initially configured correctly.

For the GY750 used here, the correct settings follow. Other FBL systems have similar functionality its just accessed differently.


Select the Swash setup menu

This model uses a 120 degree swashplate


Swash Type Setting

Set the servo type. This is typically either analog or digital but is more detailed for Futaba servos


Futaba HV servo type

This model is a 700 class helicopter


Heli Size

For the 750, you need only select Servo direction combination #6 for the unit to properly setup the servo directions for correct operation. For other FBL units you may have to individually adjust the Ail/Ele/Pit servo operation until the swashplate is moving correctly for all functions


Servo Directions

you need servo arms for the cyclic commands that are big enough to put the control balls 19mm out from center. The T/R and throttle servos can use shorter arms. Now that you have all the servos centered, try to fit the servo arms onto all the servos so that they are effectively level or zeroed out. On the swashplate this includes the aileron and pitch servos


Zero Pitch/Aileron arms

as well as the elevator servo. The T/R and throttle will be covered later


Elevator servo arm

In the Futaba 750 this is adjusted here, individually by servo. If you have to add large amounts of subtrim, reposition the servo arm by one notch and try again


Servo Neutral Position

Select the control balls from the kit and install them on the swashplate control arms as shown. Make SURE you use thread lock on these, I used green thread lock


Balls mounted

The swashplate control arms need to be short enough to not extend past the outsides of the servos. This ensures they won't hit the canopy. Cut them as necessary


Servo arms cut

Put the assembled servo arms in place and pop on the control links installed in an earlier step. Here is the completed Pitch connection


Pitch arm connected

and the completed elevator and aileron connection


Elevator/Pitch arms connected

remove the rotor head and use a swashplate leveling tool to make sure the swashplate is perfectly level when tx control sticks are centered and the channels zeroed.

If you made the rods the same lenghts and have gotten the servo arms level very little adjustment will be needed here. But use the servo neutral adjustments or subtrim to correct this


Level Swashplate

Reinstall the rotor head, make sure all the bolts are tight and that the main bolt actually goes through the main shaft (you'd be surprised). Install the rotor blades and using a pitch guage ensure that with the channels all centered the main blades are at the zero pitch point.

After that the basic rotor head setup is complete, you can setup you pitch curves.
Recommendations:

Normal

• Low pitch -4 degrees
• Hover 6 degrees
• High pitch 10 degrees

Idle Up-1

• Low pitch -11 degrees
• Center 0 degrees
• High pitch 11 degrees

Idle Up-2

• Low pitch -10 degrees
• Center 0 degrees
• High pitch 13 degrees

Hold

• Low pitch -10 degrees
• Center 0 degrees
• High pitch 14 degrees

Set Zero pitch

Moving on, find the centered position for a T/R control arm. Note that you can determine this by looking through the T/R servo cutouts on the right rear frame as shown


T/R Arm positioned

The control ball should mount at least 16mm out from the center of the servo arm.


T/R rod connected

with the t/r servo centered, adjust the links on the T/R pushrod until the rear T/R bellcrank is centered as shown


T/R Control arm position

fine adjust the T/R control arm at center until the T/R blades are at zero degrees. To check that move the T/R blades as shown


Check T/R blade alignment

The T/R blades should align as shown


T/R Blades aligned

Now set the T/R endpoints OR adjust the total throw in the gyro to ensure that the T/R pitch adjustment can move fully from stop to stop


Set T/R Endpoints

Make sure that the T/R channel has the right direction as does the gyro, otherwise you will lose control of the tail pretty quickly

First reposition the T/R and its blades as shown here


T/R blades positioned for test

Now power up the radio and put in a left rudder command. The blade on top should point to the left side of the model. If it doesn't then reverse the rudder channel in your radio.

To check the gyro direction, set its gain to 100% and then move the tail fin to the left (or nose to the right). The blades should also move as shown


Left tail command results

Check again, a right command should make the blade on top point to the right side of the helicopter as shown

To check the gyro direction, set its gain to 100% and then move the tail fin to the right (or nose to the left). The blades should also move as shown


Right Tail command results

Align the t/r pushrod supports so that the rod is straight between the front servo and the rear t/r bellcrank. This will minimize drag. Use thin CA wicked in between the support and the boom on each of the four supports. Don't use too much or it may run out and get onto the rod


T/R Pushrod aligned

Finally setup the throttle control. Find the carb arm removed in an earlier step and install one of the control balls as shown. Make sure the alignment cog in the arm are positioned as shown


Carb arm ball installed

Reinstall the carb arm on the carb as shown, use thread lock


Carb arm installed

with the throttle stick/curve centered, find a servo arm that will center as shown


Throttle servo arm position

now install a control ball so that the distance between the servo arm center and the ball center is as shown


Throttle control ball position

For Futaba servos, this throttle rod length is approximately correct


Throttle rod length

Throttle rod installed


Throttle rod installed

The throttle setup and throttle curve will be addressed in another section

Video Narrative



Next Step

Summary

[carey shurley]

And here is the completed model. This is the Whiplash Gas FBL model

This includes a number of option items that are NOT included with the kit. They are:

• Futaba FBL system, servos, rx, battery
• TRM Power VX270-TT Motor
• Duralite LiFE Battery
• Mavrikk G5 Pro Main blades
• Mavrikk T/R Blades
• Miniature Aircraft High Volume Air Filter
• Hatori Muffler
• ADA Air Scoop (replaces pull-start)

The canopy is the included Whiplash canopy finished as shown


Left Front Completed - With Canopy


Right Front Completed - With Canopy


Left Side Completed - With Canopy


Right Side Completed - With Canopy


Nose View Completed - With Canopy


Left View - No canopy


Right View - No canopy


FBL Rotor Head


Tail Rotor

Video Summary



Next Step

Initial Engine Setup and Tuning

[carey shurley]

coming soon

Video Narrative

Coming Soon

Next Step

Flying the model

[carey shurley]

Here are some excerpts from some initial flying sessions



Flying - Collection 1

[carey shurley]

As of April 2013, here are some upgrades for the Whiplash Gas as well as some recently released optional parts

[foreignloren]

Hi Carey, Was just wondering what the head speed was and if he was running a govern on it in the video, seem to hit the rev limiter a couple of times in backward flight.Seems to fly nice, good job on everything.
Loren

[Azalin]

Awesome photography and build thread.

[carey shurley]

yes thats using a GY750 FBL Gyro/governor and its in governing mode

the head speed was around 2000 rpm for these videos

[carey shurley]

As you are aware the Whiplash uses a simple metal rod for the T/R pushrod. Previous Xcell models use a C/F rod which moved very smoothly

Miniature Aircraft offers a generic C/F pushrod kit for their tail rotor setups. Shortly it will be offered to include the Whiplash. The kit will include all the parts needed for the conversion

Here are the steps needed to do the conversion

Conversion


the parts needed for the conversion are as follows, they should all be included in the conversion kit



first remove the tail boom. You need only loosen the two upper tail boom clamp mount bolts, the two tail boom clamp bolts on the right hand side of the boom and the single tail boom pin bolt in the front of the tail boom as shown



Now remove the tail boom as well as the rear tail boom support clamp



Remove the t/r pushrod and the four pushrod guide rings from the tail boom. Remove the ball links and then slip off the rings. You'll need two of them for the conversion



Now take the C/F pushrod and cut it to the length indicated using a cutoff wheel. Using a saw may cause the graphite to crack or splinter




You'll need these two rods, thread one of the 133-1 ball links fully onto one end of the short rod. Use sandpaper to remove the paint from the exposed end of that rod



Use JB Weld or thick C/A adhesive and install the short rod into one end of the pushrod as shown. This will need to fully dry.



Once dry trim the end of the link so that the brass sleeve fits over it. Use CA, install the brass reinforcement sleeve as shown



Now install the long pushrod in the remaining end of the pushrod using JB Weld or thick C/A adhesive. Make sure the amount indicated is left protruding from the end of the rod. This need to fully dry



Now slip two of the teflon shrink tubes and two of the small pushrod guides over the end of the pushrod and thread on another 133-1 ball link until approximate gap shown is achieved



Using the parts shown, assemble the two t/r push guides/rings. These will slip over the end of the tail boom in the next step



Slip the assembled pushrod guide rings over the tail boom and re-install it onto the chassis. Remember to use thread lock on the five bolts involved



Position the pushrod guides at the distances shown here on the tail boom



Connect the pushrod links to the t/r servo wheel and to the t/r control bellcrank on the t/r. With the t/r centered make any final adjustments to the link at the rear end of the control rod.

Now position the t/r support rings and pushrod guides so that the rod forms a straight line between the t/r servo wheel ball and the t/r control bellcrank. Once you're satisified with the positions, use thin C/A to glue the t/r support rings to the tail boom. Be careful not to use so much that it runs down onto the control rod.

Now center the t/r pushrod and reposition the two teflon tubes previously slipped over the t/r pushrod so that each is centered on one of the t/r guides as shown. Use a heat gun to shrink the teflon onto the pushrod.



Once you have an end of each tube sealed, you can move the rod back and forth so that you can apply heat to the entire tube. It will shrink tightly against the control rod if you apply the right amount of heat.

Thats it, pushrod installed! Super smooth!

The Bottom Line


One of the hallmarks of the high end XCell helicopters is the ultra smooth t/r control system. Part of that system has been the graphite t/r pushrod. Now you can have that same smooth assembly on the Whiplash!

• The original steel pushrod, both links and four guides weigh about 23 gms
• the replacement c/f pushrod, links and guides weigh about 25 gms

[Azalin]

What makes the CF rod smother than metal?

[carey shurley]

it requires less supports, frankly it would probably work with only one, the contact area of each support is narrower and the contact is now with a teflon tube

[red_gol]

Where can I get this model? Is it just a modification for a Trex, or it's a combo kit?

[carey shurley]

Hello

the is a "ready for gas" kit, its not a conversion of any sort. It is a very high quality model.

It will be available from the distributor heliwholesaler.com probably within the next month