Esc problems

[baevans111]

Ok I have part of this question in another thread so sorry but sometimes it will initialize others it won't until I hit the cyclic stick. And it will beep every 20 or 30 seconds just sitting there. Now if I raise the throttle to about 30 % stick position it just keeps climbing even not moving the stick to the point where it feels like it's going to blow up. I have calibrated my tx checked the connections. On the heli there is a blue, red and black wire and on the esc there is a white red and blue I'm assuming the blue and white go together?


[ame="https://youtu.be/GBYWyx7dsHk"]Problems with 180 cfx throttle need help. - YouTube[/ame]

[Bhujang]

Originally Posted by baevans111

Ok I have part of this question in another thread so sorry but sometimes it will initialize others it won't until I hit the cyclic stick. And it will beep every 20 or 30 seconds just sitting there. Now if I raise the throttle to about 30 % stick position it just keeps climbing even not moving the stick to the point where it feels like it's going to blow up. I have calibrated my tx checked the connections. On the heli there is a blue, red and black wire and on the esc there is a white red and blue I'm assuming the blue and white go together?

The beeping is normal. It's telling you it's connected and working but idle. As for initialisation it needs to see zero throttle that's why others suggested to re-calibrate the tx as sometimes the stick doesn't give a true reading. What tx you using? In th what is the setting for zero? Sometimes making it below zero will help. I'd definately check the soldering on all the wires. The colours don't matter for the motor just so long as the head spins the correct way; clockwise, if not swop 2 of the wires around. What's the rest of the set up like? Blades at zero pitch even? Swash level? Etc. Have you had any bumps or hard crashes that this started happening on after? If you have a servo tester you could test the servos to make sure that they are all working evenly and they are set in the middle correctly at zero pitch as well. Need more info really to add more ideas but I'm sure some of the genius experienced minds on HF will sort it out for you have you got the program cable for the talon 15 to take a look at it so see what's going on?

[baevans111]

I have calibrated the tx, centered the servos, leveled swash and checked for zero pitch. It is initializing fine now but as soon as I hit 20% throttle it just keeps getting louder and louder and it seriously feels like it's gonna blow up and yes I had a crash. I don't have a programming cable but I have ordered one. Do u have to take the whole side of the frame off to get the esc off the receiver? I ask because I have a new esc but do I need the cable before I can put the new one on. I mean do I have to program it to this heli? Sorry I'm still learning. I'm using a dx6e

[baevans111]

I talked to hh and they said it was a esc problem but I just replaced it and it still just ramps up like before.

[baevans111]

I added a video. It's initializing fine but the throttle problem remains

[FR4-Pilot]

Like Bhujang suggested, I'd take a close look at the 3 wires coming from the motor, specifically, the bullet connectors that are soldered to the ends of the wires. They're covered in heat shrink tubing, but it's very easy for the wire inside the heat shrink to break, giving you intermittent problems. These wires are usually folded and bent very sharply right where the wires goes into those bullets which is very bad for the dependability of the solder joints.

As the heli spools up the vibrations increase, which could cause a barely connected wire to separate, resulting in that slow-down you see after a certain RPM is reached. Also possible is the erratic start-up shown in the video - all three have to be solidly connected for the motor to start spinning. If one of them is broken, only one of the three 'coils' in the motor can fire which will result in that weird motion instead of spinning.

If you've handled these wires at all during the repairs after the crash and/or swapping of the ESC I'd bet at least one of the three has broken inside of the heat shrink. If you disconnect the ESC wires from the motor wires one may simply fall off or be very very loose ...



A re-soldering of the wires and bullets and new heat shrink would then be required - I'd fix all three just to be safe. Typically the wires/bullets/heatshrink on the ESC side are more robust - it's the thin and brittle wires from the motor that are prone to this problem.

-John

[baevans111]

Thank you for your very informative answer. I'll pull them apart in the morning. Thx again

[navigator2011]

Another thing that could cause weirdness is plugging in the helicopter with the Tx in throttle hold. Try plugging in the helicopter with the Tx in Normal and see if that makes a difference. Just a thought--I had problem with this issue on an Oxy3.

[baevans111]

When I hold it in my hand and the throttle is climbing it wants to twist out of my hand.

[MariaFan]

I mounted my ESC on the right side of the frame.
This makes the wires much straighter with no tight bends.
I know this isn't helping your problem, I just thought I would mention this.

[FR4-Pilot]

If you haven't modified the settings of the Talon15 ESC with the CastleLink cable & software then the ESC is still in it's factory configuration of 'Set RPM Governor' mode. In this mode the rotors are either not turning at all (off) or turning at one of the 3 pre-programmed headspeeds (usually 4200, 4600 and 5000).

If you are in the Normal flight mode and have your throttle curve set at either 25-25-25-25-25 or 30-30-30-30-30 (depending on what your version of the user's manual calls out) then your heli is trying to spool up to 4200 RPMs. There's no in between with Set RPM mode. Here's some more info: http://tamingtheblade180cfx.blogspot...-5000-rpm.html

It's not a good idea to hold the heli in your hand - those blades at those speeds can do some damage to you or things around if it gets away from you.

So, it's probably trying to behave as it should, again, unless you've modified the Talon15's settings ...

[JonJet]

^^

The manual settings are really crappy...Gov High Mode is the way to go on the 180CFX...

And Auto-LiPo will allow use of 2S/3S/4S batteries as you choose...

If you don't have the programming to use 0-25-50-75-100 in Normal Mode it gets real scary real quick trying to spool...because everything above 25 throttle is 4200 RPM...

John's blog is the cat's meow...

However...that sudden "drop" in rpm in the video concerns Me a bit...it should be a solid spool to 4200

Are your batteries being charged in Balance Mode? It could be a simple battery issue

[JonJet]

Originally Posted by baevans111

When I hold it in my hand and the throttle is climbing it wants to twist out of my hand.

Take all the blades off to test spool in your hand...

In fact, with the blades off it's going to sit still on the floor by itself

Best way to test

[baevans111]

I have to change the programming of the talon to set gov high mode correct? I ordered the cable so I'll have to wait till next weekend. Will it not recognize a linear throttle curve from the transmitter? I tried just to see and the same thing happened. Also what do think is causing the heli to want to spin. If I try to take off it just starts spinning then falls over.

[JonJet]

Originally Posted by baevans111

I have to change the programming of the talon to set gov high mode correct? I ordered the cable so I'll have to wait till next weekend. Will it not recognize a linear throttle curve from the transmitter? I tried just to see and the same thing happened. Also what do think is causing the heli to want to spin. If I try to take off it just starts spinning then falls over.

Gov High - Yes
Linear curve without programming - No

If the heli spins CW you may have a broken torque tube

[baevans111]

Thx for all your help I really appreciate it.

[Bhujang]

From the added video it really looks like a loose motor wire. Also did you calibrate the talon esc? Needs to be done with a linear throttle curve

[baevans111]

I checked all the motor wires and I don't have a programming cable yet but it's on the way and I don't have a linear curve now I have 25s in N 75s in s1 &100s in s2

[Bhujang]

But did you calibrate the esc ever? It's simple to change the tc back to linear 0 to 100, calibrate the esc throttle travel in servo setup and then return your tc to straight line at the % you need for your 3 head speeds might help. You don't need a program cable for that

[TRex700MRX]

I believe I saw somewhere your using a Castle ESC. After watching your video and reading the notes, I would bet you have a problem with the ESC settings, plus your throttle endpoints are not set up correctly.

Which radio are you using, the exact ESC, and what is your throttle end point settings.

The Castle ESC want the transmitter throttle end point settings to be in a certain place. If not, It WILL cause the exact problem your having.

I don't know which Radio you have, but it would be nice if you could take a picture of these settings and post them.

Plus the Castle will control how fast your motor will spool up, but you should be able to change it.

I had the exact problem with a 450, and just changing the endpoint settings brought it back to life. Plus I set the spool up speed and RPM's to my liking.

Dennis

Bhujang, is basically stating the same thing just above this post. I just saw it as I was scrolling up.