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Electric Motors Winding and Repair Electric Motors Winding and Repair Discussion


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Old 07-26-2016, 10:26 PM   #61 (permalink)
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I got to fly 2 packs this evening and man let me tell you, it is good to have some power back under the hood.

I lowered the pinion down to a 13 from a 14 because I had originally setup my 450 Pro with a 4000 RPM governed headspeed with some over head but that was based on a 3000 KV motor which I never actually had.

It was probably actually a smidgen more than 3438 since one phase was missing a turn.
Its all 555 now.

The original wind had on one phase 6 5 4, one was 555 and one was 554.

Anyhow it rocks hard and pulls to the end in hard punch outs with very little RPM drop. I'm very happy with it and my packs like the 13 T pinion better as well.
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Old 07-27-2016, 04:33 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Congratulations.
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Old 07-30-2016, 06:47 AM   #63 (permalink)
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Thanks man! This is by far the best power my 450 Pro has ever had.
With the new pinion choice, packs and motor are staying cooler and it just simply rocks.
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Old 08-05-2016, 09:26 PM   #64 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHX2 View Post
Hi,
if you want to wind the motor new ,do first the testwind Hugh told you . You need only to wind one statortoth . Drive the motor with a lath of other powertool ,mesuring rev and free volt . With this data calculate the turns you need . To get best result try Y conection of the phases and try to wind all turns you need for the needed volts on one statortooth and do the same on the other tow legs that belong to the first . With 9 slot stator 1 , 4 and 7 have the same position / phase . Try to switch all this leg parallel not in line . Because you need so the thinest wire on each toth. The thinest wire will have the lowest magnetic related resistance . Do the same with statortooth 2 , 5 and 8 for the next phase and with 3 , 6 and 9 for the third phase. you can place a copperring where you can solder all start wire for all the toth . With this method you will have the highest number of turns on each toth and the highest posibility if you want to adjust the kv of the motor .
Hope you will understand ,will do a drawing about wireing .

Here to read ,wy Y wind over delta from Aveox motors :
"Wye" wind Motor

Draw 3 resistors (or coils) radiating from a central point (The Wye tie). Label the three ends A, B, and C. These represent the three phase connections in the Wye motor.

In the controller, each of these has 2 pair of MOSFETs connected to it, a pair to source the current, and a pair to sink the current. The motor fires like this (simplified for clarity) A-B, A-C, B-C, B-A, C-B, C-A ad nauseam. The Magnets "chase" the rotating magnetic field. Notice that there are always 2 phases "commutated" at the same time, but the mix differs, and the current direction will reverse every other time. The motors resistance is the sum of any two phases i.e. measure from any 2 phases. The third phase is open electrically when any other 2 are commutated.

"Delta" wind Motor

Draw 3 resistors connected in a triangle (delta). Each of the vertices is a phase. When you commutate CA-AB, you get most of the energy on one coil, (A), but some on (A-C-B) side. (mostly imo losses). The net result of most of the current going through one set of coils at a time, instead of two is that the Kt <torque constant (tm)> is cut in half and Kv <motor constant, RPM/volt (tm)> doubles.

At Aveox, we have essentially deemed the Deltas as secondary to Wye winds in any application, except where a very high degree of uniformity in both directions is very important. Things like robots that move in both directions equally put up with the efficiency losses. Since the motors are very insensitive to timing changes (unlike the Wye winds), you don't have great performance in one direction, and poor in another(without adjusting the timing). You have good performance in both. (but it is not worth the losses in a model)

here the faq page : http://www.aveox.com/Faq.aspx

OK


Happy Amps Christian
Thanks for you input man! I didn't mean to not respond at all but I was so busy trying to wind the motor and build a press and work and all the rest of daily life. You know the story I'm sure. Things get busy.
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Old 06-30-2022, 08:03 AM   #65 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 1BOHO View Post
Blade you can use some 1 mm fiberglass tubing insulation in that area for extra insulation on the .85 and virtually eliminate the possibility of shorts in that area.



Cool jig BTW.

Hi! how does switching between single and dual layer affects kV? Im rewinding my first BLDC motor and this single layer winding looks great! If i want to to change dual 5+5 YY for single YY and get the same kV then i should wind 10T on tooth?
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Old 06-30-2022, 08:01 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carsonpoland View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1BOHO View Post
Blade you can use some 1 mm fiberglass tubing insulation in that area for extra insulation on the .85 and virtually eliminate the possibility of shorts in that area.



Cool jig BTW.

Hi! how does switching between single and dual layer affects kV? Im rewinding my first BLDC motor and this single layer winding looks great! If i want to to change dual 5+5 YY for single YY and get the same kV then i should wind 10T on tooth?
Check out the tc7.3 turn calculator on rcgroups motorwinding forum and you can see the relationship. As explained by the 1hobo and christian lrk yields a higher wind factor, more efficiency and torque it is also easier to wind but must be packed tightly as the coil wind gets tall on the stator and there is less room.

I wound a scorpion hkiii 4035 12 yy turn lrk and got 453kv on a hobbywing. That wind in dlrk on most escs was around 480-500ish kv. It all depends on the motor and inverter.
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Last edited by Danker16; 07-05-2022 at 10:57 AM..
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