Is the Logo 800's Reign Over?

[DCflyer]

First small gripe about the 800. I just unpacked everything and started messing with the frame. ALL the frame bolts on mine were loctited and torqued down. What the heck? Why would someone do this? I have to build it guys - why are you loctiting something I need to take apart?

Did anyone else's come like this? I managed to break everything loose but the cross beams took some time - had to break out my vice grips.

I really appreciate their approach in delivering a partially assembled frame, allowing you to see right away how it goes together and simply bolt things on, but was very surprised to find all the bolts loctited down.

[mahbouni]

Maybe because if they didn't then some idiot would not bother adding any loctite and then blame manufacturer for supplying an assembled frame without loctite. You can never please everyone and in a world of blame culture you have to cover your ass

[Corvette & Copter Guy]

Originally Posted by DCflyer

First small gripe about the 800. I just unpacked everything and started messing with the frame. ALL the frame bolts on mine were loctited and torqued down. What the heck? Why would someone do this? I have to build it guys - why are you loctiting something I need to take apart?

Did anyone else's come like this? I managed to break everything loose but the cross beams took some time - had to break out my vice grips.

I really appreciate their approach in delivering a partially assembled frame, allowing you to see right away how it goes together and simply bolt things on, but was very surprised to find all the bolts loctited down.

Because it's a pain to put all the puzzle pieces in. I saw no reason to pull it all apart...it's not needed.

[DCflyer]

Got a very special box today. Just in time. The only things I still need now are batteries. Going to have to wait until TP has another big sale before those get bought. 4 8S packs.

[ah_liang]

16s!!!!!

[Corvette & Copter Guy]

So what was your reasoning for disassembly of the frame?

[DCflyer]

Originally Posted by Corvette & Copter Guy

So what was your reasoning for disassembly of the frame?

I don't want to disassemble the whole frame, but I needed to loosen up the bearing blocks in order to properly align the mainshaft. I also need to remove the motor mount. I removed the FBL plate and tail block in order to make more room for working with the main gear and installing the forward tail case assembly. Also needed to remove the ESC baseplate so I can get some custom mounting plates drawn up for the yge200. All that stuff was loctited and torqued down.

I just don't see the point. I don't buy the argument of "some guy will buy it and forget to check." I don't expect there are many people, if any, buying Logo 800's, knowing how to build them, program them, and fly them, but forget to check for loctite.

[Corvette & Copter Guy]

Valid points. I did have to loosen up a few things also. I didn't think it was an issue having loctite on the screws. Clearly what bothers some is no big deal for others.

[DCflyer]

Originally Posted by Corvette & Copter Guy

Valid points. I did have to loosen up a few things also. I didn't think it was an issue having loctite on the screws. Clearly what bothers some is no big deal for others.

Mine were really torqued down. The 2mm bolts I heated with my solder gun or I would have surely stripped them. They were all extremely tight. Way tighter than needed even for a final assembly.

[DCflyer]

Question:

When assembling the outer swash balls on the swashplate, there are 3 washers that go between the balls and the plate. The instructions don't say what these are for. I know you have the option to use Savox vs. Futaba servo holders. Are these swash spacers intended for use with one servo type vs another in order to maintain proper geometry?

I will be using Futaba 172 or 77's which should give me good geometry.

Thanks.

[rcmarty]

I've got them on mine as per instructions.

The instructions say to put under front 2 swash balls outer.

looks like I messed up on my 700xx and put one under there also. Slight lean back

my 800xx looks good , maybe a slight lean back.

new logo 700 looks good - no spacer washer on back this time.

700/800 have jr 8917 , new 700 runs outrage 9180


Such a slight difference IMO , I've got 300 flights on the 700xx and no issues.
If I ever get very board i'll take it out.


Correction ....

XX series uses spacers under all 3 , new logo just the front 2

Checked the manuals


Martin

[DCflyer]

Copy thanks. Installing all 3 spaces then.

[DCflyer]

Ok - i'm going to go on a little bit of a rant here. The purpose of this is mainly to see if anyone else has experienced this, but also point out some things i'm seeing so far with my 800 Xxtreme kit.

Overall, upon initial inspection, I was very impressed with everything about this kit aside from the threadlock thing i've talked about above. More on that in a bit.

The biggest issue I ran into was last night. I went ahead and put together my landing gear struts and attached them to the metal support braces. When I checked the heli on a level surface the heli was not level AT ALL. I could rock it back and forth / side to side a substantial amount. I took the landing gear off and inspected it. Landing gear is perfectly square and flat/level. So it must be the frame I thought. Sure enough, when I put the frame on a level surface, resting on the landing gear cross braces, I noticed this:

Logo frame (0 min 22 sec)

It seems as though someone either incorrectly drilled the holes for the landing gear braces or the frame was cut incorrectly. As you can see from the video it is off by a LOT.

I loosened up all the bolts I could on the frame, bearing blocks, cross braces, etc so that it can settle naturally. No change. Main shaft slides in like butter so that's all square and straight and all the carbon cross structures fit perfectly into their tabs. So, it seems like its the landing gear cross brace holes / cuts themselves.

I am now going to have to thoroughly massage all these holes with a file (since they are too small for my dremmel) and then level the frame afterward. How much material i'm going to have to remove/alter is yet to be determined, but suffice it to say, its going to be a good amount given the video above. I am worried this will weaken the frame's structure since the landing gear cross braces "slot in" to the grooves there. Now, the entire frame's weight will be resting on the bolts there since I am going to have to remove material to level it.

Its so bad in fact, that when I hold up the frame eye level and look down the frame's channel I can easily visually see that the landing gear supports are totally crooked. Its not even close.



The last thing - by doing all this disassembling, I had to break loose the bolts on the preassembled frame. As i've mentioned in previous posts, I don't understand Mikado's logic in loctiting all these bolts that need to be loosened anyway. After getting all the landing gear supports and bolts loose I soaked them in isopropyl alcohol. I found that they were coated in machining oil and absolutely filthy. Whoever put the frame together didn't take their time with it. Didn't clean them off - just locitite and torque down.

I've attached a picture I took of the dirty paper towel from just the landing gear bolts . At this point, I don't trust any part of this preassembled frame and will be taking it fully apart for a detailed inspection and cleaning.


So far I have to say I am quite disappointed in quality of this kit. I'd expect this from a clone outfit or a cheaper manufacturer, but not Mikado, and definitely not from their top tier $1300 kit. If whomever bolted the frame together spent even a minute quality checking the frame, they would have put it on a level surface and easily noticed that it was not even close to level.

I've had Logo's before and have always been extremely impressed with their quality and fitment right out of the box, unlike other kits i've had.

Really frustrating to say the least. If anyone else has encountered any of these problems and has any ideas on how to go about leveling the frame without completely mucking it up, i'd certainly like to hear your advice. Thanks.

[rcmarty]

My frame was a bit out also.

Messed with it for a night or 2. Found that with the frames square and sitting pretty on the table , the main shaft wouldn't even go in.

A night or 2 later I let it go and focused my attention on the squareness of the main shaft blocks. MS slides in smoothly.
I figured the main shaft was more important than the rest of the frame.

There's plenty of flex built into the skids , and 13 or so lbs will make it sit nice.

I've been building for years and not cleaning bolts , just re-lock tight and go.
No issues way back then. I can understand cleaning makes it work better but even dirty is good enough.

Martin

[DCflyer]

After an hour or so of filing slowly I managed to level the frame and align the skid braces nicely. Frame sits perfectly square on the skids now and feels steady.

Now that I have that taken care of I decided to mount up the boom and canopy and do a dry fitting. The rear lower lip of the canopy requires some modification to get it to clear the boom. So I mounted the canopy posts and got that done.

Its amazing how big this thing is looking at its general size for the first time.

My question now pertains to the boom. Its slightly askew when looking at it from the front of the machine. Doesn't go straight back. Wondering if anyone else has seen this? I'm thinking it will straighten out once I bolt up the boom to the rear, but its a good amount. Boom bolted right up to the frame easily and all holes were drilled well - no drama getting it to fit or bending it around.

Ideas? Thanks.

[Chippie13]

Hi it seems like you have received the last scraps in your kit and really sorry to hear as i enjoyed my build.

I also experienced some small problems in all fairness.

Anyways as far as canopy mounting goes check this thread https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=748190 and specifically post 11 and onwards where a solution is provided.

Hope it helps with canopy clearance on tail boom.

[DCflyer]

Thanks for the response. I actually inquired about some boom stuff in that link a while back. I've already modified the canopy and it fits great now.

I do have an extra set of RCbooya mounts from my 700 that I might try your approach with. Sure would be nice to use them instead of the clips.

My main issue is the boom alignment. If anyone has seen / experienced this please let me know how you resolved it or if it lined up once you mounted up the metal boom.

I've had issues in past builds and kits as well so I knew going into this all the little quirks I might run into since I researched / looked at almost every thread in this forum prior to purchasing the kit. However, none of the issues i'm experiencing are one's that i've seen on here.

I will enjoy this build and really enjoy flying this large machine once it's all said and done, but I honestly did not expect to run into these kinds of things from a top tier kit from a top tier heli manufacturer. I hoping once I get this boom situation figured out it will be smooth sailing from there.

[DCflyer]

Next question. I fitted the main gear / auto gear / belt / tail box assembly last night. That was an interesting experience. After a couple attempts using different shims in the mainsaft assembly I got pretty good at installing it all. Not as bad as I've read actually. Just very unlike any other machine.

My question is in regards to the auto gear tail belt. Once I bolted everything up and tightened everything down I noticed the belt was not very taught. On a degree of 1 to 10, 10 being very tight id say it was a 4-5?

I could easily slide the belt up and down on the gear. Is this correct for this machine? I would imagine one would get some belt slip.

I plan on running 1950rpm with this machine and really am not comfortable with how loose the belt was so I took my dremmel and slightly elongated the tail box holes backwards so I can pull the belt tight.

Just wondering what others are seeing. Thanks.

[Raptorapture]

I checked mine. I wouldn't say it's loose. I can shift the belt up but it's not sliding and doesn't go beyond the top. The bottom of course has a guide. In terms of tension, I'm able to push it in about 5mm with a reasonable amount of force, say 2-3kg. I'd rate the taughtness at a 6 or 7 out of 10. You probably don't want it too tight as that would impact autos. Hope that helps.

[DCflyer]

Ok thanks. Sounds like that is how kits are. My belt is about the same - about 5-6mm of deflection. I'm going to tighten it up a bit.