E7se and N7 elevator servo position

[prokyon]

I just built both E5 and E7se and love both machines - E7se flies absolutely wonderful, but I would like to clarify the position of the elevator servo. When redoing the E7 into E7se, I think it was doable to move the elevator servo to the same position as on the E5 and 766 - it would be easily accessible. For example, I can access literally any part of the heli on my E5 - any servo, canopy mount, etc.

I'd like to start doing autos and I'm paranoid about stripping the elevator servo horn - I'd have to either pull out the right aileron servo to get to the servo horn, or drop the whole tail section and pull the whole elevator servo out. It's impossible to reach the two bolts at the bottom of the elevator servo without dropping the whole boom assembly.

Am I missing something? Is there an easier way to get to the elevator servo in case the servo horn is stripped in an auto?

[prokyon]

I've been thinking of finding screws like these for MKS servos, then it should be easy to get them undone without taking the servo off:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...asc6929/p21037

[dbcaster]

I think your missing something. All you need to do is pull the four servo screws out and pull the servo out the back. The elevator servo is the easiest one to pull since it doesn't go inside the aluminum blocks.

[prokyon]

I see - I think the piece which I'm missing is how to do that - my rear plate which the flybarless unit is mounted on sits in-line with the servo screws, so I can't get to them. I can undo the two top screws obviously, but not the two bottom ones. If I could pop that servo out that would be great! Not as great as on E5, where I can just bolt on a new servo arm without bolting out the servo, but still, pretty decent.

[prokyon]

Yeah, I just checked - can't pop that servo out without dropping the whole boom assembly down along with the gearbox.

[dbcaster]

I see what you are saying. I forgot about the fbl. I have my fbl mounted up front on the n7 so it's not in the way.

[prokyon]

The fbl isn't in the way - it's the carbon fiber plate which the fbl sits on. Once that's in place, good luck getting to those two servo screws.

I'm thinking of fabricating a wrench by cutting off an old Phillips screwdriver, and somehow getting it in there to unbolt the servo horn.

[prokyon]

I attached a picture of a screw which I mentioned earlier.

If someone made servo horn screws like that, or with a hex head, that would also fix the problem - then can unbolt the servo horn without taking out the servo.

I contacted MKS - maybe they can start making screws like that. I also found a few online which should fit the MKS servos. Can also make one with a threaded rod, a nut and some green loctite ;-)

[Dennis P]

Just find out what size your servo screws are and use an Allen head cap screw. I have used lots of 2.5mm in my servos.

[Commodore8888]

The n7 rear plate sits low enough that the elevator servo can just pop out as you've probably seen.

On the E7, I remember Montee telling me the plate sits a lot higher since the transmission is flipped compared to the nitro models.

Checking the manual, you should be able to remove the servo just fine by pulling the 8 bolts holding the tail clamps in, the two holding the boom supports up front, and pulling the tail assembly back with the clamps.

As for those bolts, those are just SHCS with safety wire holes drilled in them. I wouldn't be surprised if McMaster-Carr had them for 7$/100pk or something. I've been getting all my fasteners that way.

[prokyon]

Originally Posted by Dennis P

Just find out what size your servo screws are and use an Allen head cap screw. I have used lots of 2.5mm in my servos.

It's 2.5mm - where did you get yours from?

[Freeskiken]

If I need fasteners I order from RTL Fasteners.

https://www.rtlfasteners.com

[prokyon]

I'm happy to report that these low-profile screwdrivers work like a charm!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Get in there perfectly to tension elevator servo horn screw. I made sure I had plenty of threadlock on the two lower bolts which are in-line with the FBL plate and torqued them down really well. So problem solved, unless I crash lol but then it doesn't matter.