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Old 12-31-2016, 09:52 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squier250 View Post
On the plastic kit, a lot of the plastic things have a metal treated insert which is great. the tail case has no metal insert, it uses little locknuts that you thread into which is great.
That's great. I actually noted that on the lower block of the LM (which is plastic). What about the servo locations on the bearings blocks, do they have inserts?
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Old 12-31-2016, 11:11 PM   #22 (permalink)
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The servo mounting screws are self tapping into plastic. That's about all you could do with the 2mm holes in the servos. You would have to try pretty hard to strip them out though, certainly cranking harder than necessary...
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Old 12-31-2016, 11:22 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Number View Post
The servo mounting screws are self tapping into plastic. That's about all you could do with the 2mm holes in the servos. You would have to try pretty hard to strip them out though, certainly cranking harder than necessary...
That's true, I guess it never was an issue on the old x3. The only reason I brought it up on the 470 is because of the tail servo mount. I'm not one to overtighten but one of those screws that goes through the frame won't make it another reinstall. Nothing I can't fill and retap, but I'll eventually replace it with metal.
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Old 12-31-2016, 11:38 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quick tip on threading screws into the pastic. After they have been installed and removed, when you go to thread it back in, turn the screw like your taking it out by turning counter clockwise. You will feel a distinct click where the threads line up, at that point turn clockwise and your home free.

Doing it that way ensures that the threads line up the same every time and by not over tightening you won't strip plastic anymore. Also I don't use super glue as loctite to hold screws that have been threaded into plastic, that destroys the threads just as quick. I've never had a problem with them backing out, but if it's a concern for you, use some clear elmars glue instead of CA.
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Old 12-31-2016, 11:39 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by HeliLust View Post
but if it's a concern for you, use some clear elmars glue instead of CA.
Been doing this for the last year or so. Works great!
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Old 01-01-2017, 12:47 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeliLust View Post
Quick tip on threading screws into the pastic. After they have been installed and removed, when you go to thread it back in, turn the screw like your taking it out by turning counter clockwise. You will feel a distinct click where the threads line up, at that point turn clockwise and your home free.
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Yes
This is a extremely important build trick.

Do not turn the bolt / screw in.

Insert bolt / screw.
Back out bolt / screw until you hear or feel a click.


I use this trick on all plastic and metal threads.

You will never know how important this is until you get a stripped motor screw or cross threaded bolt that has to be cut out and the parts have to be replace.
Extremely Important.
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Old 01-06-2017, 09:45 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Default Align 470lm vs 470lp

Have you received 470LP kit recently?

1. What should be in the box of the latest kit?
Longer tail shaft? 74mm tail blades? Carbon tail rod? Any other free updates or changes to expect?

2. Are there any parts of LP version known to be faulty and worth replacing with metal out of the box?

3. Are there any 470LP owners with +100 flights? Would you choose LP over LM again and how is the plastic parts wear and quality after longer use?
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Old 01-09-2017, 10:27 AM   #28 (permalink)
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I went with the LP and ordered some "upgraded parts":
1. Carbon Tail Control Rod (I, personally, can't stand the wire & guides).
2. Counter Clockwise Ball Joints (there was some discussion on this, but the kits come with RH threaded ball joints even though they look like turn buckles - They are not TB's.This is purely preference).
3. 74mm Tail Blades (Both carbon fiber and neon yellow).


Crashes happen and I've been out of the heli loop for a couple years now. Plastic version for me for now as it's cheaper to fix.
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Old 01-11-2017, 03:15 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Dipweed View Post
470LM vrs 470LP I own / built both kits

Metal Tail
Plastic you will not be able to take advantage of the new metal tail rotor shaft.
I'm not sure about the plastic alloy used, but its really easy to get hairline fractures in cold weather flying... I had a couple of mid-flight exploding tail boxes before I realized that on my Blade...

Blades tail-box alloy gets really brittle in cold weather...
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Old 01-19-2017, 05:15 PM   #30 (permalink)
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What about align 470LP flying out there during winter time and below zero temperatures?? How is plastic quality? Anyone having problems ??
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Old 01-19-2017, 08:40 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windcatcher View Post
What about align 470LP flying out there during winter time and below zero temperatures?? How is plastic quality? Anyone having problems ??
It doesn't seem to be that brittle type of plastic BUT if you fly a lot in very cold weather, the price difference is probably worth it.
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Old 01-19-2017, 08:46 PM   #32 (permalink)
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I only crashed once, broke grips but thats it. They're super cheap so I'm not concerned. Probably 60% of flights were done in below 50 degree weather and probably 40% below 40 degrees. Many below 30 degrees and some below 10 degrees.
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Old 01-20-2017, 06:41 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Number View Post
I only crashed once, broke grips but thats it. They're super cheap so I'm not concerned. Probably 60% of flights were done in below 50 degree weather and probably 40% below 40 degrees. Many below 30 degrees and some below 10 degrees.

Thank you guys!

I am still thinking whether to choose metal or plastic kit to start with??
I like plastic idea after using X3 +500 flights but need some advice from people who fly it for a while.

1. Would you buy LP version again after your experience with it?

2. Do plastic version need some metal upgrades to fly best and safe?

3. Would it be better to get plastic with some metal add ons or metal and then after a crash buy some plastic replacements??
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Old 01-21-2017, 03:01 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Just get the metal if you have doubts or think you will upgrade. You'll save money and time. Personally I like plastic because it makes all the snobs wretch.
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Old 01-21-2017, 03:52 PM   #35 (permalink)
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I dont feel that I have to upgrade to metal if plastic parts are ok. I also like the idea of having plastic if I know its similar or better than bling version.


I am just looking for confirmation and answers from LP pilots with longer experience.
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Old 01-22-2017, 08:32 AM   #36 (permalink)
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The only thing I didn't like about the plastic was that I had to trim off some extra plastic left by the mold. Don't get me wrong, the quality itself is good but watch for those little leftovers as they'll cause noise in your drivetrain. For this reason I prefer the metal autorotation pulley/tail shaft and tail case but other than that, love plastic helis.


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Old 01-22-2017, 08:40 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Cleaning flash from plastic parts has always been the case, even for the more expensive Mikado parts.
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Old 01-22-2017, 10:31 AM   #38 (permalink)
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I just started building my 470LP. I had trouble getting the main shaft into the headblock. After a little work I got it to go in.
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Old 01-22-2017, 12:52 PM   #39 (permalink)
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That's just tolerance of parts and does happen with metal as well.
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Old 01-22-2017, 03:09 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Make sure you don't tighten the bearing blocks until you put the main shaft in. Use the shaft to get perfect 90.
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