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450 Class Electric Helicopters 450 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 02-19-2011, 04:08 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Yea this is a great thread .
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Old 02-22-2011, 02:48 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Great thread! It ought to be a sticky.

CopterX 450SE V2. Kind of lame wiring job, but I'm learning! I'm going to add a piece fuel tubing around the rudder servo wire where it crosses over the frame. Will also add some heat shrink around the end of the braided mesh for the aileron and pitch servos.

Go easy on me, please!





















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Old 02-22-2011, 03:41 PM   #63 (permalink)
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Stuck by popular demand

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Old 02-23-2011, 01:26 AM   #64 (permalink)
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I am looking for feedback. I am a newbie on my first build. Does anyone see any issues or problems with my wiring so far? I know I am not finished yet, but before I go any further, I want to some feedback. Any and all is welcomed.
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Old 02-23-2011, 03:14 AM   #65 (permalink)
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The following are good guidelines for electronics placement:

1. Keep power/motor cabling away from radio/servo cabling. Use a ferrite to aid electrical isolation between them.
2. Keep cyclic servo wiring away from sensitive gyro/tail servo wiring. Keep cyclic on one side frame and the gyro cabling on the other for starters.
3. Get rid of excess cable by shortening cables, not by bunching them up in bundles.
4. Protect cables where they pass through holes/edges of the frame.
5. Keep unsupported sections of cable short to avoid flapping lengths causing stress fractures.
6. Coil the short (4-5cm) length of cable to the gyro to prevent transmission of vibration and prevent the cable tapping on the frame.
7. Don't braid/heatshrink right up to servo cable entry points as this stresses the cable.
8. Design cable runs to be serviceable (eg for servo gear replacement) and not to interfere with other components such as 500ESP boomblock removal.
9. Ensure you can disconnect motor power for safety during setup.
10. Run cables inside the frame where possible to protect them.
11. Keep antennae cables away from CF frames/boom supports and support them (as per point 5).
12. Consider effects on CoG as there's not much else you can move on a heli: this usually means put the heavier battery/ESC up front to balance the tail, with the rx/gyro in the rear.

Hope that helps,

Steve
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Old 02-23-2011, 08:20 AM   #66 (permalink)
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I don't agree with shortening, if you shorten them it makes it more difficult to use then in other helis. Just bunch them up, the small amount of extra weight does not matter on this size heli...
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Old 02-23-2011, 11:05 AM   #67 (permalink)
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I might move an Rx or gyro between helis, but the only time I've moved servos was to try the DS520, retired from my 500ESP, on my 450SEv2, which being smaller didn't cause length issues. I can't imagine needing to move servos generally.

I can see that switching to FBL and connecting to the control unit rather than the current rx could present issues, but if so I'd rather replace the whole servo lead than have surplus spagetti to deal with on the offchance I might have an issue in future.

That said, don't shorten wires until you've finalised the position of everything, as deciding to move the gyro would be a little embarrassing if the tail servo lead no longer reached!

I aim for my wiring to be as neat as I'd expect to find under the bonnet of my car.

Steve
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Old 02-23-2011, 05:48 PM   #68 (permalink)
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Besides, lengthening is no big deal. You just cut an extension and splice it in to the desired length.

http://www.readyheli.com/HCAM2105-Ho...J_p_33435.html

Rick
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Old 02-23-2011, 08:23 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Well my pro is on rebuilt waiting on parts..here's my wiring..got bored tot I show off my wire skills

Got all the from work I work at electronic shop so I get all the sleeving/wire covers ect..hehe I stock up on them..won't believe the waste on sleeving and wires go to waste..now i cant remove one side of the frame off the gyro/rudder wires because i solder it i have to cut it but ill leave it alone..


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Old 02-25-2011, 09:28 PM   #70 (permalink)
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Does hidden wiring count?








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Old 02-25-2011, 10:09 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Show off ...
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Old 02-26-2011, 10:34 AM   #72 (permalink)
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I got it from a Master
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Old 03-03-2011, 02:23 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Hi this is my wiring thanks
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Old 03-06-2011, 01:24 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Default Helicommand 3A wiring

There are a lot of pretty wiring jobs on this sticky. Mine used to be pretty until I added the Helicommand. I still think it's pretty - in it's own way - but it probably won't win any beauty contests. But maybe this will help someone else trying to cram the Helicommand on a 450.

Peace,
John
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Old 03-06-2011, 03:56 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Have you had a bit of bother with static by any chance?!

Steve
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Old 03-07-2011, 04:28 AM   #76 (permalink)
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Hello all ,heres a few pics of mine. Im about to go flybarless so thought id put some pics up for a before and after. Some tips from me are, dont bury your servo wires unless you have MG's, since i went MG ive never touched them. When i shortend the wires i bought the crimper but never ended up using it, i used some thin nosed pliers instead. The shortend tail servo wire connector is great for fast removal of the entire tail assembly.
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Old 03-07-2011, 08:23 PM   #77 (permalink)
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My first ever 450 came today (Value Hobby 450-M) this thread will be invaluable once I start routing my electronics... Thread, Glad I found it
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Old 03-25-2011, 10:21 AM   #78 (permalink)
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Default Tom's Wiring

I just finished a minor refit of my Pro, complete with CC Ice 50 esc, Scorpion 2221-8, and overhauled Align servos. Figured some may be interested in how I arranged the wiring and packaged the whole deal.

I made it so I could remove the right frame side without disturbing any wiring, and remove the tail boom and gearbox without having to remove the gyro bracket completely. The ICE 50 fit in nicely once I opened up the sides some, and there is plenty of air to cool it. It runs at around 95 or so depending on how many flights I pound off. I tied the wire off against the frame with dental floss to keep it neat. I ended up rewiring the servos as the factory Align wire insulation was giving up. I put an extra inch and a half on the cylic servos to allow more wire to tie off away from the motor.

Tom
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Old 03-29-2011, 07:04 AM   #79 (permalink)
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Brokeitagain asked that I post these:
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Old 03-29-2011, 10:54 AM   #80 (permalink)
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Thanks for posting the pics Ken!

Your wiring looks great. I remember you commented that you might want to move your esc to the side of the heli. Are you still thinking of doing that, or are you happy with it on the bottom? I was sorta unsure of whether it really made much difference.

Thanks again,
Greg
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