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Old 07-27-2011, 01:03 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Dude that is freaking awesome! Well done

I would love to do that some day.
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Old 07-27-2011, 04:58 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Great looking frames, are you going to ircha ?
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Old 07-27-2011, 05:10 PM   #23 (permalink)
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maybe you can powder coat instead of anodize? Nice work.
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Old 07-28-2011, 06:13 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Thanks Guys,
Always nice to hear positive feedback!

I will definitely post more pics when I have the other parts cut. I think it would look great to anodize or powder coat and then cut the parts.

ircha... I have never gone. I'm not that great a flier but it would be fun to watch.


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Great looking frames, are you going to ircha ?
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Old 07-30-2011, 11:28 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Hi Guys,
I had a chance to work on the frames a little more. Here is a video of the lower frame half's being cut and some pictures of the frames assembled.

I need to rework the landing gear area a bit and I want to make a few other changes.

I can fully understand the use of Carbon or Fiberglass.... The lower frames take about 4 minutes to cut per side.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ighiTXPtElw[/ame]
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Old 07-30-2011, 11:44 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Test fitting the parts.
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Old 07-31-2011, 12:02 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Really nice Kelly
It must be really nice making something like that yourself, great satisfaction.
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Old 07-31-2011, 12:59 AM   #28 (permalink)
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I love threads like this. Just awesome. Kelly, you rock!
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Old 07-31-2011, 07:34 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Thanks Guy's,

Everything fits great but I made a critical mistake with the front 2 servo's.... The push rods hit the servo case in extreme throws... ARRRGGG !!! I need to rotate the servo mounts so the arm is not over the case.

For now I can mess around with a different servo arm. I will fix this in version 4! LOL
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Old 08-04-2011, 01:34 AM   #30 (permalink)
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That looks great but watching you machine that G10 just makes me feel itchy all over. What type of bit were you using for that routine?
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Old 08-04-2011, 09:48 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Here is another picture of V3 put together.

Had a minor error in the servo layout that I fixed in V4. I never cut version 4 because I got a bug up may rear
about moving the motor up top and keeping full size servo's.

So here is a cad drawing of V5...Integrated bearing-servo upper mount, Integrated bearing-servo-motor mount mid block, motor up, batteries low and flat (the rectangle in the lower right is the outline of a 12s-a123 pack).
full size servo's.

I will start cutting the test parts out of plastic this weekend.

The bit I used on the G10 is a Diamond Cut Routers Style. It cuts like butter and no dust or itching if you use the vacuum like I did in the vid.

End Mill Cut Flute Length: 1/2 Shank Diameter: 1/8 Head Diameter: 1/8
Style: End Mill Cut
Flute Length (Inch): 1/2
Shank Diameter (Inch): 1/8
Head Diameter (Inch): 1/8
Overall Length (Inch): 1-1/2
Material: Solid Carbide
Manufacturer Part Number: A9800815

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?P...MITEM=327-1469
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Old 08-05-2011, 09:26 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Cool, learn to make more pieces and you can have your own custom helicopter!
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Old 08-15-2011, 05:35 PM   #33 (permalink)
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I was able to get full size servo's installed with the motor up top but it is a really tight fit with the wider scorpion motors. I think it is all just to tight to be a viable option unless I can go down to 18mm servo arms.

If 18mm servo arms will work I could slide the servo's over a 1mm and have more room for the motor.

Here are some pics.... Please ignore the rough looking plastic I used inexpensive PVC type of material just for the prototyping. I can cut it much faster and it can be carved with a knife for modifications. Unfortunately is absorbs dirt like a magnet and looks a little rough around the edges.
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Old 08-15-2011, 10:41 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Version 5 is looking Great. Becareful you may not be able to keep up with the orders once guys see the finished heli...
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Old 08-16-2011, 12:24 AM   #35 (permalink)
 

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Jahmer on here uses some sort of laser to cut his g10.
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Old 08-16-2011, 09:45 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Any opinions on the 18mm servo arms for direct servo to swash? Will that be to short?
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Old 08-16-2011, 11:44 AM   #37 (permalink)
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If the servo is too close I'd think you could change the angle of the servo mount by about 5 deg. and bring it out enough so that the ball is on the other side of the arm.

I'd still like to see a nitro version. If you decide to do one I've got a cad file of the trex frame...think its in dwg.
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Old 08-16-2011, 03:19 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kregan View Post
Any opinions on the 18mm servo arms for direct servo to swash? Will that be to short?

For FBL, it will be near perfect, it will not be enough throw for FB.
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Old 08-16-2011, 05:05 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Have you considered moving the aileron servos rearward? This will eliminate the problem of having the servos interfere with the motor.

Like this...

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Old 08-16-2011, 06:43 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Big Fil, Yes I have a drawing like that but the elevator servo becomes an issue with frame but still playing with the idea.

I am designing this for flybarless right now so 18 will be great. I actually have everything drawn with 20 mm servo arms now so 19 may be fine.

Thanks guys.
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