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Finless Bob's Helifreak Tech Room Finless Bob's Helifreak Tech Room - Tips and how-To Videos


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Old 07-30-2007, 02:54 PM   #21
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Bob, Once again great job and thanks for doing these vids!
I'm going back to double check all my work.
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Old 07-30-2007, 06:03 PM   #22
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Hey Bob,

Great start on the vids, they are fantastic as always.

Do you know what blades and gyro you are going to be using yet?

Cheers
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Old 07-30-2007, 11:14 PM   #23
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I will be using Align carbons and a 601 gyro that I already have (same as 611).

Bob
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Old 07-31-2007, 02:48 AM   #24
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Default Main gear hub

Great to see the Maestro turn his attention to the 600N Like Bob I thought there wasn't much point in paying too much attention to the run out of the clutch assembly as there really isn't anything to adjust :? I might do some dial gauge measurements though when I get my QuickUK prototype fan just for the hell of it.

Did you spot the differences in the main gear hub between nitro and electric - I ordered one of each to check out why the nitro version is twice the price - obvious when you compare them side by side - the central hub is much beefier in the nitro version, deeper and thicker (and comes with the one way ready installed )
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Old 07-31-2007, 11:03 AM   #25
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Bob, A question for you........

In my kit, my original Flybar rod is 400mm in length. At the LHS I picked up a spare Flybar and found that it is now 440mm in length?

So, what is the proper one to use? and what is the difference in flight?

Thanks,
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Old 07-31-2007, 03:03 PM   #26
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My oneway just locked up on the 5th flight, any thoughts how this can be over come, is there anything I should have done during the build

On a good note great build vids, john & Bob
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Old 07-31-2007, 07:50 PM   #27
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Quote:
In my kit, my original Flybar rod is 400mm in length. At the LHS I picked up a spare Flybar and found that it is now 440mm in length
The newer 440 flybar potentially gives you quicker cyclic response due to greater force of leverage on the rotor disc but this is counteracted by greater gyroscopic stability due to the increased radius of the paddles - so the effect tends to cancel itself out by increasing flybar diameter. In practice using the stock paddles I haven't noted a whole lot of difference BUT if you put lighter paddles on you could expect a quicker cyclic response.
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Old 07-31-2007, 09:16 PM   #28
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Thanks John,

I'll run with the 400mm to begin with, and down the road, (or maybe during a repair ) I'll try out the 440mm.

PS - Awesome job on the Vids! It's people like you that give hope and Inspiration to newcomers.
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Old 08-01-2007, 07:13 AM   #29
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Quote:
Did you spot the differences in the main gear hub between nitro and electric - I ordered one of each to check out why the nitro version is twice the price - obvious when you compare them side by side - the central hub is much beefier in the nitro version, deeper and thicker (and comes with the one way ready installed )
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Freaked me out actually.... While I have not had failures of the E clutch MANY HAVE. I dont think this change is a fix thought.... Seems the sleave is the issue but we shal see how thios fares (some are reporting issues now).

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Old 08-01-2007, 04:28 PM   #30
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Great work again Bob
Keep'em comming.

Seen most of the other once.
Will You do a vid of the maiden flight/lift-off with the final tweeks this time maybe?
Been missing that a few times on other builds and seen others ask for that too.

Off cource the way You build the birds, it should not be neccessary with adjustments . But hey, I hope you're nothing other than human and not out of this world...(read alien) I guess we all do mistakes , and I would really like to se how You coupe with them when you see at first flight, something is not right...

Maybe a bottle of shampaign cracked on top of the rotor head, givin it a proper baptise(or how that is written) and a name like a new ship is in place...

Naahhhh just kidding.
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Old 08-02-2007, 11:08 AM   #31
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Bob,

Question on tail setup, I have the tail control arm at 90 degrees and the tail rudder control arm at 90 degrees. The control rod between the two is not even close to the measurement given, much shorter. Am I missing something or this is not the correct method of setup for the tail?

Tony
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Old 08-02-2007, 12:21 PM   #32
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Default Nice, thanks Bob!

I'm having trouble with the vids. When I click the link it says "Unauthorized user, please login first You will be redirected in 3 seconds. LOGIN".
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Old 08-02-2007, 12:23 PM   #33
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The video downloads are being worked on and should be fixed soon.

Bob
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Old 08-02-2007, 03:22 PM   #34
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hi every one!!


for some reason the hf vids arnt working for me is eny 1 ells having this problem

cheers joe
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Old 08-03-2007, 03:47 PM   #35
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Thanks Bob, great stuff so far! The ball links on the digital caliper idea is awesome. I'm doing that tonight! Btw, did you have a problem with the grub screws that tighten down into the flybar paddles, becuase my grub screws are too thin and don't bite. They just fall into the hole.
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Old 08-03-2007, 04:08 PM   #36
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I'm building two nitro kits now that I just got at the LHS and both have the set screws called out in the manual for the paddles but, like yours, they just fall into the holes. I thought it odd that I hadn't read anything about it.

A visitor to our field from out of town just maidened his new rex nitro last night, he said his paddle holes were too large for the set screws also and he had replaced them with larger set screws. There must be a few kits like this. Another local who built one of the first nitro rex's that was relased said his paddles/grub screws were fine. And all my electric 600's have been fine.

Another oddity that has me scratching my head is the control shaft that has the three swash bellcranks on it. Mine seems a bit too long. They give you a couple extra washers to take up any slack but I used the extra washers from both kits on one control shaft and there's still a tiny bit of slop. I'm considering grinding the shaft length down a half to 3/4 mm or so. Anyone else run into this ? Edit: never mind, I just carefully filed off 3/4 mm in stages, kept test fitting, and it's fine.

Finn, I'm loving the videos; thanks and keep'em coming.

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Old 08-03-2007, 04:10 PM   #37
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Yes my set screws were troo small as well for the paddles. I assumed it was just a mistake in my kit since no one else brought this up until now!
I am trying to locate a set of 3mm set screws to use.

Bob
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Old 08-03-2007, 10:26 PM   #38
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Lakespinner2 - I believe you may have your Frame sides reversed, inside out. The larger part of the bering retainer must be on the outside of the body. if they are on the inside the shaft will be too long.
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Old 08-04-2007, 08:04 AM   #39
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scadaboy, I set a land speed record out to the shop to check those frames, LOL. they're on the right way. Thanks for the suggestion though. I spoke to someone else who had given their control shaft a few swipes with a file to get it to fit, must not be all that uncommon. It was an easy 2 minute fix.

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Old 08-04-2007, 08:25 AM   #40
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Cheers Lakespinner2 - I'm glad to hear that wasn't the problem, and your filing fix worked!
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