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Old 01-15-2013, 04:44 PM   #61 (permalink)
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So, here's my latest creation... the Naza Anti-Vibration Mount or AVM for short - sounds professional dunnit

Pieces freshly cut on the CNC




Added some 25mm nylon standoffs and some nylon m3 screws:




and assembled using some Omicron anti vibration gel on both the underside of the Naza and between the top of the Naza and the cross brace. This results in a tasty looking Naza-jelly sandwich.... it is held very strongly in place so is effectively hard mounted, it should just see less vibrations. In theory.

The only thing I can't do here is countersink the holes as I don't have a countersink bit - that'll have to wait till I get back after christmas, but once done the screws will be flush with the panels.



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Old 01-15-2013, 04:45 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Here's a couple more bit's from the mill

These little things are for mounting those fibreglass spars to which the weapon's arms are mounted. They will bolt onto the underside of the floor panel.







and here's my load spreading base plate that will hopefully help to strengthen everything up and help survive a few less than optimal landings!



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Old 01-15-2013, 04:45 PM   #63 (permalink)
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using my CNC machine in manual mode, it's quite good for just getting very nice straight cuts. I needed some corner brackets to mount the battery trays on the side of the heli frames, but I couldn't find anything ready made that fitted what I want. Instead I ordered some 50mmx50mmx3mm corner section of T6061 aluminium and cut some brackets myself...

Here's the machine just cutting straight lines




and here you can see how I'll have 3 brackets per side and how they hold the battery tray. These then mount to the side of the heli frame... still a bit of drilling and tapping to do here.


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Old 01-15-2013, 04:46 PM   #64 (permalink)
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Here's my Hellfire launcher... you can see the rails where the missiles mount





And here with the whole mounting arm for reference




And here's a little work on the battery mounts...

So here I've drilled out my aluminium brackets and I'm finally putting to use a tap and die set that I bought many moons ago - tapping out the two bottom holes with m3 thread.




so then we end up with this, battery plate and brackets together:




And here's to give an idea of how it will mount to the helicopter:




The brackets on either side of the frame will be linked by a tapped aluminium cross brace (same as the other frame braces) so that the weight of the batteries doesn't pull directly on the frame. I'm also now considering cutting my own replacement side frames out of G10... it'll weigh a little more than the CF but the advantage is that I can change the shape to shorten the nose and give more cockpit space, plus cut holes and whatnot exactly where I want them... it would also of course have the advantage of removing a huge amount of carbon fibre which is, as we know, not great for radio signals.

Undecided on that though for now... I'm mulling it over. I can of course also modify the stock frame to shorten the nose.

On top of that, a chap on another forum has graciously sent me his unused gear and pinions... This gear requires use of a non standard hub so I ordered a Lynx universal Hub and it fits perfectly... The pictures don't convey it perhaps but the comparison between the KDE gear and align auto-rotation gear compared to the HK600 stock gears is just ridiculous. So much more precise and true running, the feel of the quality is orders of magnitude higher. Should really help cut down on vibrations so thanks a lot chap!







old vs new







Oh and I just ordered the nice scale 4 blade tail I posted a little while back.. should arrive soon. Just need blades, a few bits to finish installing the servos and then the airframe is very close to getting airborne for some testing.
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Old 01-15-2013, 04:47 PM   #65 (permalink)
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And to accompany the Hellfires on one side, I've devised this Quad rocket pod for the other side...

This will have fibreglass side panels in the same way that the mounting arms do, and inside will run four 22mm(OD) x 20mm(ID) x 146mm aluminium tubes. the whole unit is 55 x 55 x 150mm in size. The back is removable and has space for a board to hold 4 igniters, and the tubes will be slotted at the back to allow the igniters into the tube.... The idea being that I can make small black powder "charges" to load inside the tubes... when they ignite, should get a very nice swoosh, flash and smoke rocket style effect. That or my heli blows up.






Rear portion, you can see the removable rear cap, mount point for the igniter board and the 4 holes to allow wires through to it.

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Old 01-15-2013, 04:47 PM   #66 (permalink)
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I've been playing with the Hellfires and this is how they are looking:

Now these aren't actually going to be entirely 3D printed... The rail and the nose will be, but the body will just be a 140mm long, 22mm wide tube, and the fins will be cut on my CNC. Anyway, I just wanted to get a feel for how they would look on the arm and having seen them I think they look pretty mean lol





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Old 01-15-2013, 04:48 PM   #67 (permalink)
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So, look what postie just delivered!

beauuutiful... a perfect match for the head. I'm actually very impressed with this - the quality feels good and all the actions are very smooth and slop free with bearings in all the right places where often you see bushings instead... They also cleverly designed it so that you can switch the pitch lever arm to either side to facilitate either a left or right handed tail, and even included a spare pitch lever arm in the box.






The only problem - I now have no where to mount the tail fin as this unit doesn't have the normal fin mounting holes.... shapeways to the rescue!

I quickly designed this little bracket to attach the tail fin to instead:




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Old 01-15-2013, 04:48 PM   #68 (permalink)
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so I've decided I will have a go at making my own frames out of G10... I think the possibility to reduce potential blocking of the radio signal is worth it alone, and the new shape I can do is also useful.

So this took frikking ages carefully measuring everything to make sure the important holes are all where they should be in relation to each other, but I finally ended up with something that I believe is correct!





So the nose has been shortened, more material put in around the motor mount in a way to suit my larger motor, I've placed the cross brace supports a bit more strategically, added holes for the battery mounts, I've added an upper mounting option just behind the elevator servo for the Naza-H and made a little more space up the top by the front cyclic servos to prevent interference with the removable canopy.

I also then re-designed my bottom bracket to suit the new frame:





And here's a quick shot of the frame sides, bottom bracket, motor brace and front cyclic servo spacer together.



I will try cutting these frames out next week when I'm back, and hopefully the guy machining my custom bracket for me should be able to get it done within the next month or so (he's very kindly doing it in his own time for pocket change, so I just need to wait for work to die down!). In the mean time I'll continue the build with my current frame and hopefully get some test flights in with the mechanics before the end of the month.
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Old 01-15-2013, 04:49 PM   #69 (permalink)
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back to the cockpit - just hooked up my rudder pedal mechanism, seems to work quite well! The pedals themselves are free to rotate on their shafts which should make the action smoother when they have a foot mounted to them. They look quite comedy large here but with the pilot in place they actually look pretty spot on size wise.






I also found this great looking floor covering for my cockpit - it's a very thin foil on some plasti-card backing and has proper 3D patterning to the checker plate style floor. Bit bright and shiny of course, but a wash with some dirtying paints and it'll look right at home methinks!


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Old 01-15-2013, 04:49 PM   #70 (permalink)
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So, problems problems everywhere.....

just ran into something I don't like... no sireee bob not one bit lol.

Look at the clearance between the swash arm here and the anti-rotation bracket. If a link gets even slightly loose, these arms could swing out slightly with the centrifugal force... to help stop that happening I'm switching all the nuts to nyloc locknuts and will be locking the blade grip end connection with strong loctite (which then holds the arm in position as the link is connected to the grip through a set of bearings) but it's still something I think could conceivably happen.





It would destroy the AR bracket in absolutely no time at all I'm sure if it were it to happen, the end result of which would be too sad for words lol. And I can't relocate the bracket further back as the guidance pin then falls out at extremes. Longer pin is a possible option, but that's too easy.

So, since I'm cutting my own frame anyway we can be a bit more creative! The 600 ESP moves the cyclic servos further forwards and then spins the swash 180 degrees and runs linkages from the front to the back, with the rear servo running a linkage through to an elevator arm at the front.

This is stupid. Too many linkages, servos at the front driving the back and vice versa.

However, on the 600 pro they do it better - an elevator arm at the back with two direct drive servos at the front... a setup that will work great here. The issue is that the frame doesn't have the bearing mounting points required and is significantly thinner than the 600 pro frame.

So a combination of this




some frame mounting bearing blocks I've just whipped up for some 5x10x4mm bearings





...and then once I've made some measurements an appropriately relocated elevator servo and bearing mount hole in the frame, and I'll be able to lose the AR bracket altogether. I think it'll look better too without the AR bracket sticking out so it's win win really. Only complication is that I may need to cut down the axle and re-thread, and I also need to watch my servo arm lengths so I don't mess up the geometry.

Next up, I also dislike my tail's clamping mechanism. Put simply it sucks. I've designed this new clamp (to be made from Aluminium) since I couldn't find any similar style 24mm clamps on t'interweb (please pipe up if you've seen something suitable!). I also took the opportunity to add a small hole at the top for an anti-rotation screw that will help stop the tail case from turning on the shaft.




And proof, if ever it were needed, that I'm a moron... I was sizing up the mechanics to the heli and cut the fuselage tail boom down to match the mechanics like it says to in the instructions... but of course being the muggins that I am, I hadn't checked how much the boom needed to be extended to tension the belt correctly - something which only occurred to me after I had gone crazy with a dremel... turns out I didn't need to trim the tail down at all - doh!

So whipped out the epoxy and stuck it's little tail back on, here it is with some filler waiting to be sanded smooth again. I won't tell mum and dad if you won't...

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Old 01-15-2013, 04:50 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Anyway in the mean time, I stole the elevator arm from my 600 Pro for some measurements and the idea should work. Here's the re-designed frame... You can see the elevator servo has moved further back to make way for the arm mechanism, and then I've added a hole for the bearing mount block. Now I just need to find a suitable length 5mm m3 threaded tube.... or make one.

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Old 01-15-2013, 04:50 PM   #72 (permalink)
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UPS lady kindly just dropped some stuff off.

First up we have my Naza GPS mount. This came out somewhat taller than I thought and now I'm starting to think about the blades lopping it off if they come close to a boom strike... I may redesign the central section a cm or so shorter.

The parts: Boom mount (to be inserted from inside through a cut out and then blended in), main body, and lid.




here with the Naza GPS sat inside (note it allows a few degrees movement if I need to set declination - around here it's only 1-3 degrees or so though)




and assembled (note little hook on the underside to tidy up the wire, neat lol)






Next up, the OSD Pro case... this one fits very nicely. When I get around to it i'll print up some new stickers minus the holes.






Altimeter case, also a perfect fit




and eLogger case, this one didn't turn out quite perfect, I'll have to do some small design revisions perhaps, but it works with some tweaking






and here you can see how they will make my install that much neater, the OSD Pro and altimeter are installed on the floor pan and will later be joined by the guardian for FLIR AHI... eLogger will go on the underside of the opposite side battery plate.

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Old 01-15-2013, 04:51 PM   #73 (permalink)
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just attacked one door with a dremel, poor chap looks like he is wondering where it went. I've forgotten this one's name... given the pilot is Juan, lets call him Julio!




Juan and Julio, sitting in a tr.... err AH-6 Zeeeeeee
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Old 01-15-2013, 04:51 PM   #74 (permalink)
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So today I've just finished off drilling tapping and cutting my second battery mount brackets, now installed on the heli... I decided to do this for several reasons - having them mounted up here rather than on the floor pan a couple of inches below raises the CG which makes for a better handling helicopter in theory... it also gives me all the floor space to install components such as ET OSD, altimeter, guardian, light controller etc etc. Finally, it also gives me a useful shelf to install the power components - the Gryphon will mount on the underside of one, the DJI BEC on the underside of the other and then the eLogger at the back of one.





And here with a pair of 6S 3300mah. I've designed the plates to take up to at least 6S 5000mah size batteries, so these are looking a little small:







And I also finished off my Naza mount by counter sinking the holes and installed it. I used the DJI supplied foam tape on the underside of my mount and then as before sandwiched the Naza between the two pieces of omicron anti vie gel. The top plate puts some pressure down on the unit and compresses the gel, while locking the Naza in place. It feels very firmly mounted so it'll be interesting to see if the Naza complains about the mounting method at all.




And I'm not a big fan of something about this cockpit... It's designed so that you place the windows on the outside (one big upper piece, two small lower pieces) and then mask off the windows so you can paint the panel lines. My issue with this is that it always looks like a window has been stuck on... I prefer to install from the inside so you have the nice clean lines... which is the way they do it on the incrementally larger 700 sized fuselage.

So now that I've already made the plug of the lower canopy I decided to put the old part to use. I cut out the window shape and installed with epoxy, then trimmed it down to the edge of the fuselage. This fills the indentation and once I've used a bit of filler and sandpaper it'll be blended in nicely and I can then put some rivets along the edges for scale detail.


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Old 01-15-2013, 04:52 PM   #75 (permalink)
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just started thinking about my controller. Still some hurdles to overcome on this front but with the incredibly kind help of people far smarter than I, we shall overcome I am sure Big thanks to Anders, the designer of the CW, Anthony, the firmware guru at IMRC, and above all Sircana of circular wireless fame for all the help thus far.

So first I've popped two red momentary switches on the back within comfortable finger reach, these will be for the pyrotechnics and/or miniguns. I'm going to try and find a guard that is suitable for them too, if I can't find one then I'll make one.



And If you hadn't guessed already, I quite like to be as neat as possible in my setups. So Next I hunted for a spare space for the channel wizard. I found an abundant cavern just underneath the left control stick where it is still above the battery line.





This will get wired into the radio then the plan is to connect some pots/switches etc, and I'll intercept the PPM stream then take it to the channel wizard.

While the precise details will change around, the basic idea is this - The channel wizard takes the 8 channels from the radio, adds one pot on a normal channel (9) along with two blank ones (10 and 11) and finally a multiplexed signal for numerous switches on the last channel (12) for a total of around 16 effective channels. This 12 channel ppm stream then gets sent to the EzUHF which is running the new 12ch firmware, and the EzUHF overwrites the two blank channels with data from the head tracker port.

The whole lot then gets sent through the ether to the Rx, where I can output the ppm stream to a ppm decoder in the front for the flight deck controls, camera pod controls, pan/tilt etc and to an onboard channel wizard. The onboard channel wizard decodes the multiplexed 12th channel and distributes it around the heli to the auxiliary controls.

That then leaves 7pins on the EzUHF rx which I can use to connect my 7 control channels (aileron, elevator, throttle, rudder, pitch, gyro gain, GPS mode) to the Naza, or if it's working (not 100% sure if ppm is supported yet, but I believe it is) I can send everything through a single PPM line there too.

As I say, that's all fluid and subject to change at the moment but gives the general idea of how it'll all work.


Oh, and here's a quick look at how the GPS unit will be positioned... in prime position to be lopped off by a low flying blade lol. I would position it closer (would look better too imo) but then I start getting closer to the servos and electronics that the manual says to keep good clearance from, so it's a compromise. The head has no dampers so it can't teeter too much, I don't think the blades will be able to come too close but we'll see when I get them installed. If need be I can design a slightly shorter pod.

Looking at the angle however, if a blade manages to reach the pod it'll hit the boom too further down so I'll be in a world of hurt anyway.

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Old 01-15-2013, 04:53 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Couple of not very exciting updates

Firstly, I cut out the pilot's side door as with the other side:




I also mounted my boom GPS mount... what a pain in the butt lol. It was like keyhole surgery getting it in and then getting it to line up straight was a bit of a faff! Got there in the end...






And more modifications to the TX - this is a latching 2 position switch which will operate my camera switch to change between FLIR pod and cockpit cam. In this position it's within easy reach of my fingers but not in the way when I'm just holding the Tx.




I mounted a cool little bit of kit from Mictronics which takes the RSSI/LQ from the bus port on the EzUHF and turns it into an analogue output for the OSD to read without losing a channel. I need to check this doesn't produce any noise but I hope not because I like now neatly it mounts like this!




and finally here is a nice little shot of Mont Blanc I took yesterday, random I know but I thought it was lovely lol.

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Old 01-15-2013, 04:53 PM   #77 (permalink)
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So I gave my CNC machine a proper workout today and cut my new custom frames. I took these on a nice slow cut and it took 50 mins PER side lol.

I'm pleased to say that at first glance they appear to have come out very well, we'll see for sure once it's all assembled again, although I'm a bit stuck for now without my custom bottom bracket.

The end result is actually much cleaner and better looking than the stock frames were.... especially around the slot areas etc. So my CNC machine is obviously less abused and more loved than whatever poor old device is cutting the HK600 frames.



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Gaui X2, BeastX/Scorpion 3400kv/YGE-30A/GS-093/DS95i
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Old 01-15-2013, 04:54 PM   #78 (permalink)
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So, put together the frame... here's an inside shot:




And together (minus baseplate). You'll notice the much shorter nose if you compare it to earlier shots of the frame, it's about an inch shorter on the nose which translates to more cockpit space, and of course the relocated elevator servo and the hole for the elevator arm:






Close up of my new 2.5mm CF motor braces:




Somehow, despite using G10 rather than carbon fibre, I have ended up with a frame that is more rigid than before... I literally cannot get this thing to flex in my hands no matter how hard I try. I have also improved the mesh between tail drive gears which was a bit too loose before.

Also, a couple of other bits hot off the press:

Panels for the quad launcher and mounts:




Anyone guess what this is?




So, problem is I'm now a little stuck until I get my custom bottom bracket machined... might come up with some bodge in the mean time that allows me to get on with things.

In other news - the weapon mounts and quad launcher arrived yesterday but my neighbour took delivery. Hopefully I'll be able to pick them up tomorrow. I'm also now contemplating my own 3D printer... it won't completely replace shapeways for the super detailed stuff but it will be seriously handy for many of my projects both present and future. I think I'm becoming desensitised to spending hideous amounts of money lol....
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Gaui X2, BeastX/Scorpion 3400kv/YGE-30A/GS-093/DS95i
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Align T-Rex 600 EFL Pro, SK720/600MX/YGE-90HV/BL9180/BL9188
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Old 01-15-2013, 04:55 PM   #79 (permalink)
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Looky what I just got

So first the quad launcher. Love the size of this thing, holding it up next to the heli it looks great... Just need to cut some aluminium tube to length now, i've inserted one to show the idea. That'll have to wait though because I'm off to work shortly.









And the Hellfire launcher minus missiles...

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Blade mCP X - Brushless, XP-7A, HP05S
Gaui X2, BeastX/Scorpion 3400kv/YGE-30A/GS-093/DS95i
Align AH-1 Cobra (T-Rex 500)
Align T-Rex 600 EFL Pro, SK720/600MX/YGE-90HV/BL9180/BL9188
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Old 01-15-2013, 04:55 PM   #80 (permalink)
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: UK/Switzerland
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So here's my plan for connecting the cockpit...




a D15 connector. Should be able to cram everything into 15 pins so there'll only be one connection to make.

I also designed something quite neat I think! My SPS switch has the remote pin activator.... Pull the pin and the whole system goes live. I was scratching my head as to where to locate this without looking naff, and then this came to me lol. A fuel cap, with the SPS remote switch integrated. In order to prevent things looking odd, I disabled the LED that normally shines out of the pin hole to show the system is alive.







And in other news, I have finally got around to starting the second door (I hate repetition lol)

__________________
Blade mCP X - Brushless, XP-7A, HP05S
Gaui X2, BeastX/Scorpion 3400kv/YGE-30A/GS-093/DS95i
Align AH-1 Cobra (T-Rex 500)
Align T-Rex 600 EFL Pro, SK720/600MX/YGE-90HV/BL9180/BL9188
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