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700 Class Electric Helicopters 700 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 12-12-2014, 11:01 PM   #41
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So much detail Scott.
Awesome job
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Old 12-13-2014, 12:40 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feral View Post
So much detail Scott.
Awesome job
Thank you so much, Tim!

Scott
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Old 12-13-2014, 10:20 AM   #43
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is in any danger of being lost but I think it should be stuck in the top section.
One of if not the best build threads I have ever seen. Great job Scott!!
I won't be building one anytime soon but really enjoy following this for now.

Tiger
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Old 12-13-2014, 10:45 AM   #44
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I agree! Awesome build thread Scott!
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Old 12-13-2014, 11:15 AM   #45
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Ya, its awesome, needs to be sticky'd.

My only complaint is that life, work and such is getting in Scott's way and he can't get it done faster.
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Old 12-13-2014, 11:22 AM   #46
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It is nice reminiscing on this thread. My build was a blur. I might take my Evo apart and enjoy the build all over again.
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Old 12-13-2014, 11:39 AM   #47
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haha, heli junky!!
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Old 12-13-2014, 12:33 PM   #48
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I'm not sure who is addicted to helis worse..... Phil or Daren??

Anyways, back to Scotts build! Looks awesome my friend!

A note on the bevel gears of my machine. I popped them apart, scraped the excess glue out, mated them, remount top mount, checked and rubbed, popped them apart again, rotated 90 deg, remount, checked again had a sweet fit. Broke everything down again, and then loctited everything and reglued the gear.

So smooth, just a bit of noise from the entire system, thats all. No tight spots anywhere. I'm happy!
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Old 12-13-2014, 04:07 PM   #49
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Thank you so much, Tiger! Made my day, sir!

Scott
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Old 12-13-2014, 04:07 PM   #50
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Thanks, Mark! Days are being made in advance, now!!

Scott
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Old 12-13-2014, 04:11 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashcopterman View Post
Ya, its awesome, needs to be sticky'd.

My only complaint is that life, work and such is getting in Scott's way and he can't get it done faster.
Thank you!! Wow! I have many days made in advance, now!!

You want to know what is really getting in the way? Lighting. I have crappy lighting in my new hobby room so I need to get new lights!

Scott
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Old 12-13-2014, 04:12 PM   #52
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Phil, there's an old song about reminiscing!

Scott
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Old 12-13-2014, 04:13 PM   #53
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Thanks, Chris! There are lot of heli-junkies around this place...hmm...

Scott
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Old 12-13-2014, 04:42 PM   #54
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And now we start on the frames! Page 10 of the manual.



Page 10 uses parts from Bag 5 and Bag 6, as well as the completed battery tray from Page 5 of the manual.



Bag 5 has all the hardware you will need to complete this step.



Here is the parts layout to complete this step. You can discern between the left and right half of the frames by checking the rudder servo area. The right side of the frame has no cutout for the rudder servo but does have two access points cut.



You position the battery tray on the underside of the frame. The slightly raised posts fit into the holes in the frame as shown above.



Now we start to use the center washers. If you've built the Legend Rush 750, you are familiar with the center washers. You slide the center washers over the screws (in this case M3 x 8mm Socket head). Make sure to use blue thread locker before installing the screws.



I started with the center M3 x 8mm screw. I didn't tighten it all the way yet as I wanted to make sure I could rotate the frame to get a perfect fit on the posts. In my case, I could get the posts to snap into the frame holes.



Above shows how the posts fit into the frame.



Above is the base mount. It is two sided and must be oriented properly. One side is recessed for the M3 x 10mm screws.



The other side has small raised posts that fit into the CF Frame doublers.



This is the orientation of the base mount and frame doubler. Note too, there is a threaded hole for a screw. We'll get to its use later in the frame build.



Install the base mount/frame doubler as shown. Make sure the doubler lines up with the frame and the holes cut into the frame. Use blue thread locker on the M3 x 10mm screw.



Tighten the screws evenly while you're making sure the holes in the frame and in the doubler line up with each other.



Repeat the above process for the opposite end of the frame.



At the end of Page 10, your frame will look like this!

Next we continue the frame build with page 11 of the manual.

Scott
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Old 12-13-2014, 04:51 PM   #55
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What a nice experience to read this thread and to enjoy the build as it takes shape. I must point out the level of quality demonstrated in the pictures. Thanks for taking the time Scott to share the experience.


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Old 12-13-2014, 06:22 PM   #56
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Thanks, Jeff! It's fun to do this. Lots of work, but fun!

Scott
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Old 12-13-2014, 09:57 PM   #57
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Page 11 of the build starts now!



Parts required and assemblies required to complete page 11 from bottom to top, clockwise, are:

Gyro tray assembly;
ESC tray accembly;
Anti-rotation bracket;
Seven center washers;
Right bridge support;
Seven M3 x 8mm cap screws;
One bottom canopy pin;
One M3 round spacer;
One break away tab (note the smaller and larger holes);
One M3 x 6mm button head screw;
and one M3 x 8mm cap head screw (shown with one of the seven center washers installed).



The M3 x 6mm cap screw is installed through the smaller hole in the break away tab and into the bottom canopy pin. Use blue thread locker to install the screw.



The M3 x 6mm button head screw head fits into the larger hole in this area of the frame. This allows sudden impacts to flex and ultimately break the break away tab which reduces the chance of frame damage.



Canopy pin is fixed to the frame via an M3 x 8mm screw, center washer, and is screwed into the M3 round spacer. Use blue thread locker.



I installed the gyro tray first because it will be easier to align during this step. Also note I am installing the tray with the button head screws on the tray facing up. This is to allow easier maintenance. The tabs on the backs of the CF tray mounts have slightly raised posts that fit into the holes of the frame as shown below.



Gyro tray in place.



I started with the center screw (with center washer) to mount the gyro tray. I did not tighten it at this time because I wanted to make sure I could move the tray to get a good fit.



After I started all the screws (with blue thread locker applied), I tightened the screws. Not too tight though--you do not want to flex the tray at the mounts--let the thread locker do its job.



Next, I lined up the ESC tray.



An M3 x 6mm screw with center washer is used to hold one side of the ESC tray to the frame.



The right bridge support lines up as shown above.



Make sure the holes line up!



Another M3 x 6mm screw is used to hold the support bridge to the frame. The support bridge strengthens the entire drive system by removing the possibility of flexing.



Next we install the anti-rotation bracket. It is held in place by two M3 X 6mm screws. Note the elongated hole. This is used when installing the swash plate. This elongated hole allows the anti-rotation bracket to pivot around the top screw which allows the anti-rotation pin to the installed. I am not using thread locker at this step. I will use blue thread locker after I install the anti-rotation pin,



Installing the second screw and center washer for the anti rotation bracket. Again, I am not using thread locker during this step.



Page 11, complete! Outside view.



Page 11 complete, inside view!

On to page 12!

Scott
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Old 12-13-2014, 10:20 PM   #58
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Page 12. A quick page, but necessary. Pay close attention to the orientation of the bearing block/servo mount while building this page.



These are the assemblies and parts required to complete page 12 of the manual, from bottom to top:

One M3 x 6mm cap screw;
One upper bearing block assembly (note the orientation of the screws as it is installed screws up);
One break away tab;
One canopy mount post (note it does not have a pointed end);
One M3 x 8mm cap screw with center washer;
and one M3 x 6mm button head screw.



The canopy mount is assembled exactly as the canopy mount on page 11 of the manual. Use blue thread locker for the button head screw.



The bearing block/servo mount has small raised posts that fit into the frame as shown. Note also the orientation of the servo mount portion of the bearing block--it points toward the front of the frame.



The M3 x 6mm cap screw is installed here. I am not going to use thread locker on any bearing block during assembly as I want to be able to move it slightly. The goal here is to get a "drop through" main shaft by moving the bearing blocks ever so slightly during installation of the main shaft. More on this later in the build.



Install the canopy mount with break away tab as shown above. Again, the button head screws head fits into the larger hole on the frame at this location. The M3 x 8mm cap screw is installed with a center washer here. Again, I am not using thread locker on this screw for the reason mentioned above.



Top view of the complete page 12 build. Note the screws on the bearing block are on the top of the bearing block. Also note the orientation of the servo mount arm.

That's it for page 12. Next we do page 13!

Scott
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Old 12-13-2014, 11:19 PM   #59
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On to page 13 of the manual. On this page, we mount the motor and install another bearing/servo mount.



The parts and motor required to complete page 13 of the manual. From the bottom to the top clockwise;

Right motor doubler;
Two M3 x 8mm cap screws;
Bearing block (with bearing holder)/servo mount;
Brushless motor (for the purpose of this thread I am temporarily using the motor from my Legend Rush 750);
Motor mount with two M4 x 8mm cap screws (your motor require different screws--the kit comes with both the screws mentioned above and M3 x 8mm cap screws).
Pinion gear with two M4 x 4mm set screws;
Two M3 x 7 x .8mm flat washers;
and two more M3 x 8mm cap screws.



There are many ways to mount your motor. To determine which motor mount screws to use, you first determine which way you want your motor leads to run. In my case, and probably yours too, the motor leads run to the front (right in the picture). As you can see in the picture I have two tapped holes in the motor lining up perfectly with two M4 x 8mm bolt locations. Those locations bisect the motor shaft.



I will use two M4 x 8mm cap screws to attach the motor to the mount. Do not worry if you cannot use all four motor mount screws provided. Only two are necessary, but do not forget to use blue thread locker--odd vibration problems and stripping gears can occur if the motor mountings become loose.



Tighten the screws evenly. First get them snug then...



... then crank them down until they are tight. Apply some torque in this step, but do not strip the threads of the lower motor!



Partially install both set screws...



Partially installing both set screws will allow you to slip the pinion over the motor shaft.


If your motor does not have flat spots ground in the shaft, you might want to consider doing so prior to this step. This is so the set screw can get a good bite into the shaft. Here I have aligned the flat spot on the motor shaft with the set screw (hard to show in pictures) and tightened the set screw only enough so the pinion was only free to move up and down and slightly left and right because of the flat spot on the motor shaft.



Next we install the center bearing/servo mount. Again, line up the tabs on the frame so they fit into the holes on the frame.



Next we position the right motor doubler as shown--lining up the holes. I seem to be writing that a lot.



We install the motor doubler using M3 x 8mm screws. Again, I am not using thread locker on any bearing mount at this time for reasons mentioned earlier.



Again the M3 x 8mm screws are snug, but not tight at this time--no thread locker is used.



This is an important step. The M3 x 8mm screws are mated with the M3 x 7 x .8mm washers. It is essential these washers are used as they form a smooth surface for the bearing block to slide. Do not use thread locker on the screws at this time, but do test if the motor and motor mount assembly can slide in the both the guides and slots cut in the frame. The purpose of sliding is to adjust the mesh of the pinion and main gears in later steps.

That's it for page 13! On page 14 we will install the remaining bearing blocks install the tail drive/boom block, and roughly set the position of the pinion gear.

Scott
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Old 12-14-2014, 07:00 PM   #60
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Page 14 is here!



Parts and assembly layout for manual page 14 bottom to top, clockwise:

Motor shaft support bearing block;
Bottom main shaft bearing block;
Six M3 x 8mm cap screws;
Six center washers;
Tail drive/boom block assembly;
Lower mast doubler with two M3 x 8mm cap screws;
and the Support doubler with two M3 x 8mm cap screws;



Now we set the initial pinion position. Note the position of the set screw and how much of the motor shaft is protruding.


We slip the shaft support bearing block over the motor shaft, note the orientation. The raised portion of the bearing block goes toward the pinion. At this time the screws on the side not shown are tight. I did this to make sure the alignment was right on the...



Frame. Looks like I guesses right! The holes line up.



This is how I like the pinion positioned initially. I like the machined ridge to rest on the inner race of the support bearing. Chances are with the pinion installed as it is now, I will not have to adjust pinion height when the main gear is installed and we set gear mesh.



On the off chance we do have to adjust the pinion height, we can get to the set screws!



Since the holes are lined up and no adjustment of the pinion was required, I started to install the support doubler.



Next, we install the M3 x 8mm cap screws for this side of the support doubler. Keep them loose and do not use thread locker at this time. As before, we will use thread locker after we set the pinion to main gear mesh. We will temporarily tighten this assembly when we install the other side in order to ensure no further pinion height adjustment is needed.



Next we start to install the bottom main bearing block. Note the elongated holes in the frame and how the bearing block lines up. The elongated holes are necessary as we do not want any up/down play when we install the main gear, auto gear, one way bearing assembly, and Torque Dampen Drive.



We then align the lower mast doubler as shown, then install the screws--again, no thread locker and do not tighten. These piece need to be able to slide in the elongated holes for this bearing!



Now we install the tail drive/boom block assembly. First we align the holes with the tabs on the assembly as shown.



Then we install the M3 x 8mm cap screws along with center washers.



We install the screws in a crossing pattern--this way things get tightened evenly. Do not forget blue thread locker for all six screws in this step!



Page 14 completed, the outside view.



Page 14 assembly, inside view!

Next up, we start buttoning up the the frames!

Scott
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