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700 Class Electric Helicopters 700 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 12-15-2014, 02:08 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Page 15 starts the prep for buttoning up the frames by installing the elevator and rudder servo mounts! If you've built the Legend Rush 750, you know how to install these parts. Orientation is important!



The biggest part of this step is getting out the left side frame from bag six. Then you will need to go to bag 5 to get the remaining parts:

Four servo mounts;
and four M2 x 6mm special Phillips head screws.



Now, this may look backwards, but it's right. Make sure the posts on the servo mounts go through the mount holes in the frame. Doesn't this carbon fiber look absolutely fantastic? The matte finish is stellar!



Use blue thread locker on the special Phillips head screws.



Tighten the screws--not too tight, though--they're small. Let the thread locker do its job! Repeat with all four special Phillips head screws.



The first step of buttoning up the frames is done! Next up, we attache this frame with the right side of the frame!

Scott
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Old 12-15-2014, 02:26 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Now on page 16 of the manual, we start buttoning up the frames!



Parts needed for this step are (laid out by their location):

6 M3 x 6 cap screws;
Four center washers;
and the left side bridge support.



First step in buttoning up the frames is to line the left side of the frame with the posts on all the mounts. This is important because we do not want to stress the CF. Things well designed (and this helicopter is a work of art) usually fit where they are supposed to fit. Note the posts in the frame holes.



Use blue thread locker on the M3 x 6mm cap screw for the...



...front bridge support in this step. Next, do not use thread locker on the rear bridge support M3 x 6mm cap screw if you want to do as I am regarding a fall through main shaft.



Use blue thread locker on the M3 x 6mm cap screw (with center washer) for the...



... trays.



This page is done! We'll continue buttoning up the frames with more hardware installations in the next post! As a side note, check out the posts and holes for the motor shaft support bearing block--perfect. This means the pinion is probably spot on! If these holes were not in alignment, I would have had to adjust the pinion as the pinion would have pushed on the support bearing block.

Scott
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Old 12-15-2014, 02:56 PM   #63 (permalink)
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Page 17 has us continuing the button up process!



For this page you'll need:

The remaining support doubler;
The remaining motor doubler;
Two M3 x 6mm screws;
Nine M3 x 8mm screws;
Two M3 x 7 x .8mm flat washers (not pictured--messed up! Sorry!);
and five center washers.



I'm starting with one of the screws for the anti-rotation bracket, it's got a center washer. The M3 x 6mm cap screw is only tightened until it is snug and has no threadlocker applied in this step. Again, note the elongated hole for the bottom screw.



I've installed the bottom M3 x 6mm screw with center washer, here and snugged down the top screw.



Next I'm installing the M3 x 8mm cap screw into the motor doubler. Same story as on the right side of the frame: No thread locker, yet. Repeat with the screw to the left of this screw.



Here I am installing the M3 x 8mm screw for the motor mount. As before, it uses an M3 x 7 x .8mm flat washer and does not use threadlocker until we set pinion/main gear mesh. Repeat with the screw/washer to the left.



Next we position the support doubler over the support doubler location as shown above.



Next, we install, but do not tighten the M3 x 8mm screws for the support doubler--the support bearing has to slide with the bearing as we adjust pinion/main gear mesh.



Blue threadlocker goes on all remaining screws with center washers!



I usually screw all screws in finger tight, then tighten them. We use blue thread locker for this screw.



And blue thread locker for this screw, too!



We're getting close to being done with the button up! We continue...

Scott
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Old 12-16-2014, 03:01 PM   #64 (permalink)
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And the buttoning up process continues with page 18 of the manual!



Parts and hardware to complete page 18, bottom to top, left to right are:

Two base mounts;
Upper and bottom canopy posts;
The remaining lower mast doubler;
Eleven center washers;
Two M3 x, 6mm button head screws;
Two break away tabs;
Ten M3 x 8mm cap head screws;
and Four M3 x 10mm cap head screws.



As before, these are the parts necessary to assemble the canopy mounts with break away tabs.



Make sure to use blue thread locker on the M3 x 6mm button head screw.



I'm starting with the bottom canopy mount. As before the head of the button head screw fits in the larger of the two holes.



Next I placed the top canopy mount... okay, so I didn't do a good job aligning it here.



Use blue threadlocker on the M3 x 8mm cap screw (along with a center washer to install the bottom canopy mount. Then I installed the upper canopy mount using the same type screw, but did not use thread locker because of the drop through main shaft testing that will happen soon!



While I'm at the bottom, I thought I might as well install the base mounts Use M3 x 10mm cap head screws with blue threadlocker to accomplish the task.



Next I installed the remaining lower mast doubler using M3 x 8mm cap screws with no threadlocker. NOTE: It will be helpful if you make note of the locations where you did not use thread locker. This way, you will not miss a screw.



Using blue thread locker, we're now going to start buttoning up the tail drive/boom block assembly.



As before, start at a corner...



And work in a crossing pattern.



Tighten the screws evenly! Don't forget the blue threadlocker!



And before you know it, this step is done. Next, we'll finish with the frames!

Scott
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Old 12-16-2014, 03:10 PM   #65 (permalink)
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Just one more step to complete the frames! That step is on page 19! Now we install the Base Tray!



Parts needed to install the base tray and finish the assembly of the frames are:

The base plate;
and four M3 x 6mm button head screws.



The base plate has a slot and the battery tray mount has a tab. The tab of the battery tray goes through the base plate as shown.



Use blue thread locker on the M3 x 6mm button head screws.



There are four screws to install and they go at the corners.

One note. The rusted head of the M3 x 10mm cap screw in the base mount is my fault. I got my alcohol mixed up in the previous manual page and accidentally used 70 percent. I got called away and the alcohol evaporated. When I got around to installing the screw, it had slightly rusted. Why? The water in the alcohol! This was my lesson to check everything thoroughly. Use 99 percent alcohol! This was the first time this happened to me. I put a little oil on the screw to protect it. It's now looking normal.



The frames are now officially buttoned up!

On to the skids!

Scott
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Old 12-16-2014, 03:22 PM   #66 (permalink)
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The skids are what really make this model look sleek, and very, cool on the ground and in the air. They are also very, very strong. I do not think I have ever heard of the CF breaking!



The parts needed to complete the skids are found in bag 6 and bag 7.



Parts for the skids are, bottom to top, clockwise:

Two CF Skid plates;
Two front skid doublers;
Two skid mounts;
Eight M3 x 10mm button head screws;
and two rear skid doublers.



My first step was to put two M3 x 10mm button head screws through each of the holes in the skid doublers.



Here I have inserted the screws (in the fount doubler) through the front holes of the skid plate.



Use blue thread locker on all the screws!



Then you install the plates/doublers to the skid mounts. Make sure the sides of the doubler line up with the skids!



Repeat with the remaining three doublers! Then you have...



Finished skids! Top view...



Side view!

Next, we'll install the skids!

Scott
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Old 12-16-2014, 03:31 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Installing the skids completes the build of the frame. Remember, though there are still screws which do not have thread locker applied.



Simple step! The parts needed to complete page 21 are:

Four M3 inserts;
and four M3 x 8mm cap screws.



First we slide the frames over the skids such that the mounts slip into the slots for the front and rear frame doublers.



Then we install the M3 inserts! The post goes through the hole in the frame. They act as nuts for the M3 x 8mm screws. Note that they have flats. You can use a 7mm open ended wrench to hold each part as you tighten screws... I'll show you.



Use blue thread locker on the M3 x 8mm cap screws.



For my installation, I held the M3 insert with my fingers as I tightened the screw but...



As I said before, you can use a 7mm wrench to hold the M3 inserts. If you do this, it's easier if you rotate the insert so the flats are at about a 45 degree angle.



The finished frames!!

Scott
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Old 12-16-2014, 03:38 PM   #68 (permalink)
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I'm going to skip the servo installation (and other electronics installation because I want to run leads and wires with the gears installed. So next up, we're going to install the Main drive assembly. We'll also do the main shaft fall through test, and use thread locker on all the screws we left loose.

Scott
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Old 12-16-2014, 06:09 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Your build threads are the best I have ever seen Scott. Keep it up.
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Old 12-16-2014, 06:39 PM   #70 (permalink)
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Thank you so much, Michael! Your forum support is absolutely stellar, as well, sir!

Scott
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Old 12-16-2014, 08:34 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Stellar job, Scott. Wicked nice job, my friend!
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Old 12-17-2014, 05:59 AM   #72 (permalink)
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Chris,

That means so much. Thank you, my friend! (Can't wait to see your new truck!)

Scott
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Old 12-17-2014, 08:53 AM   #73 (permalink)
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Pic of the new ride is on FB. Gonna be a cool Rush hauler!

Back to the build!
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Old 12-18-2014, 05:55 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Drop through test time!



For the drop through test and tightening the screws for the two upper bearing blocks we'll need the items here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MpYhd668Ep8

Make sure to use the blue thread locker when you're tightening the remaining bearing block screws. Use a crossing pattern, too. In the video above, I was sitting as I was doing the fall through/drop through test. Sitting and holding the camera made it difficult to hold the main shaft straight up and down. The key here is that the main shaft did not bind anywhere as it fell through the gears. There's not much adjustment to made as alignment was perfect as it was. Because of precise manufacturing tolerances, yours will likely be perfect, too.

Now, on to the gears!



You'll need bag 8 to get started with the gears.



Note the lone screw. This was done by the factory because a bag was one screw short. Make sure you check your bags for things like this!



The contents of bag 8, from bottom to top, clockwise.

TDD (Torque Damped Drive) hardware and screws for mounting the TDD, One Way Assembly (OWA), and gears;
TDD Hub Assembly and TDD Lower Mast Pin;
One Way Assembly (OWA);
Main and Auto rotation gears;
and links and bearings for later steps.



We'll start with the OWA. Here you can see the hub, the cap, the sleeve and the six M3 x 8mm button head screws needed to put the OWA together. In my kit, it was assembled but the cap was not screwed down, so I took it apart to show you what was there.



The sleeve has a wider portion--this goes into the clutch bearing as shown.



When you install the sleeve into the hub, you may need to turn the sleeve while pushing the sleeve through the clutch bearing. When the sleeve is fully installed, it will look like the picture above.



Next, you slide the cap over the sleeve shaft.



Then you line up he holes for the screws.



Use blue thread locker on the screws for the OWA.



Don't tighten the screws all the way at this time. Instead, just tighten them until they are snug.



Use a crossing pattern then tighten then tighten the screws evenly. Make a couple courses of your crossing pattern.

Next post, we continue assembling the gears.

Scott
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Old 12-18-2014, 06:19 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Gears, continued...



These are the parts you will need to attach the OWA (right) to the Main Gear, left. The screws you use are six M3 x 6 button head screws.



First you slide the OWA into the side of the Main Gear that is recessed. Make sure to line up the holes. It may be a tight fit, but rotating the OWA is not difficult at all.



Use blue thread locker on the M3 x 6mm button head screws.



This is going to be a common theme throughout the next few pictures. Install the screws in a crossing pattern and tighten only until they are snug, then...



... check out my crossing pattern... just kidding. Usually during a winter build thread, around this time, I show a picture of snow... After last winter, I'm happy there is no snow to show!



All the screws are installed and tightened -- in a crossing pattern. I made about three laps of the patten.



Parts needed to mate the TDD assembly with the auto gear:

Auto gear;
TDD Hub;
Six M3 x 6mm button head screws;
TDD Dampters;
and TDD inserts.



The is the upper view of the Auto gear with the TDD inserted into the recess on the other side of the gear. Note the screw holes are lined up.



The opposite side of the TDD Hub. Man, it looks like it is sticking it's tongue out! It's not, don't worry. What you see is a cutout in the hub that at this angle looks like a tongue!



Again, make sure you use blue thread locker on the screws!



The pattern we used on the Main shaft and OWA is used on the TDD Hub--crossing!



As we did before, af first, only make the screws snug, then tighten them in a crossing pattern. I made three laps here to make sure the screws were evenly tightened.



Layout of the TDD dampers and inserts are showin above. The cool thing about the TDD is this: So far we have only tested one hardness of the damper! This means there may be additional dampers of varying hardness later!



The TDD Dampers slide in very easily.



After the dampers are in, slide in the TDD Inserts.. all the way!

Next up, we install the gears into the frame!

Scott
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Old 12-18-2014, 06:54 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Installing the gears! Page 24 of the manual. Note, I am not installing the head, yet. I will install the head assembly after all electronics have been installed--then I can do a basic setup of the cyclic system.



The main gear is on the right and the auto gear is on the left. Note the orientation of the auto rotation sleeve (the protruding silver cylinder).



Here, I have lined up the mounting hole on the auto sleeve with the holes in the TDD insert.



While mating the auto and main gears, try not to turn the assembly--the alignment of the mounting holes may change. Then slide the assembly into the frames as shown.



If the alignment changes, you can gently slide a hex driver into the mounting holes to reestablish proper alignment.



Proper alignment of the mounting holes. Then install the main shaft--the holes spaced further from one end of the main shaft go into the auto/main gear assembly. After you install the main shaft, check alignment, again. Make sure you can see through the holes in the auto sleeve and main shaft.



Now we have to install the TDD Lower Mast Pin--this takes the place of the conventional Jesus bolt that is used to hold the auto and main gears to the main shaft. The above pin is designed specifically for the TDD assembly. It is what allows the dampers to absorb initial starts, the shock of hard collective or cyclic maneuvers, thus allowing reduction of gear wear by up to 60 percent.



You install the TDD pin through the TDD inserts...



And through the opposite TDD Insert. I'm leaving some room here to install the screws and washer which not only hold the main shaft in place, but pre-load the TDD dampers.



These are the remaining parts needed to install the main shaft. From left to right;

Shaft retainer;
Two M2.5 x 7 x .5mm washers (one has a screw inserted though it);
and two M2.5 x 5mm cap screws.



Using blue thread locker, install one M2.5 x 5 cap screw and washer into the TDD pin. Do not tighten, just snug it up. Repeat for the other end of the TDD pin.



You will likely have to look hard, But there are two hex drivers that I used to tighten the M2.5 x 5mm screws in the TDD Pin.



Next, we install the shaft retainer. Use blue thread locker. I thread it into the bottom of the main shaft by hand. Some people use a penny, some use a screw driver to tighten it. The key is, do not over tighten the screw. I went finger tight, then about 1/4 turn tighter with a penny.



Next, we pull up on the main shaft while holding the frame down. This sets the lower bearing block. Do this until there is no up/down movement of the main shaft! Then while pulling up on the main shaft, tighten the screws going through the shaft doubler and into the lower bearing block. Use an opposing cross pattern--tighten the front on one side, then the back on the other side, then reverse. Once all screws are tight, remove one, apply blue thread locker, then repeat for the three remaining screws.

Next, you can set gear mesh. Follow the link below and watch the video to see how I do it.

https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...3&postcount=18

That's it for the gears and main shaft installation. Next, we'll install all the electronics and complete the wiring! That means we're going back to page 22 of the manual.

Scott
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Old 12-19-2014, 07:29 PM   #77 (permalink)
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"Your build threads are the best I have ever seen Scott. Keep it up."

I could not agree more!

I do have one question for Scott-What do you lubricate the Sprag Clutch with (I assume the Evolution uses a Sprag like the original Rush 750?)? I have been using ATF on Ramp/Roller clutches (used TriFlow liquid or light oil for years on them with no issues, but wanted to try ATF as I heard good things about it).

A Sprag is an entirely different animal, though!

Any recommendations?
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Old 12-20-2014, 11:15 AM   #78 (permalink)
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Richard,

Thanks again, my friend!

First some background info.

The original Rush's OWB was indeed a Sprag type. For that, I just used TriFlow Synthetic Grease. Glob it on and it was good to go.

Then, when the extension kit for the Rush came out, the OWB changed to a roller type bearing. ATF is great for those bearings! On other helicopters, I used ATF with no issue at all.

The Evolution uses the same OWB as the 750--a roller type. So, ATF would work great there, too!

Scott
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Old 12-20-2014, 01:11 PM   #79 (permalink)
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Thank you, Scott!

Just what I needed to know.

I still have the original Sprag in my Rush and did not realize that it was changed to a Ramp/Roller (I had read that there was an auto-rotation clutch change fairly early on, but I did not know the details).

Thank you again, sir!

Keep up the good work!
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Old 12-20-2014, 02:31 PM   #80 (permalink)
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You're welcome, RAK!

I intend to keep going until there is nothing left to do. I'm installing servos and other electronics now, so look for an update soon.

Scott
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