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600 Class Electric Helicopters 600 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 11-26-2016, 06:08 PM   #1
icehunter
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Default 600 nitro conversion..any suggestion

I built a Align 600 nitro pro years back. Never did finish it totally,just needed a few elec.pieces to complete it. Now a few years later I want to convert it over. Watched some vids and such,looks pretty easy.

So first I am going to mount a align H60033a motor mount. I found a couple of the older align RCM-BL600L engines new. What scorpion engine would replace it? You know,just in case I want more power. I am not into 3d stuff,just casual flying. I know I also need a ESC...hmm what amperage you guys recommend? I think by reading and such my main gear should be alright from the nitro kit.I will probably leave it flybarred for now.

I know it will cost a few bucks,about $700.00 Can dollars. But sell the new unused nitro engine,exhaust,fuel tank ETC will cover part of converting it. I really don't want nitro fuel stinking up my house!!

Any suggestions from some one who has done the conversion would be appreciated.
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Old 12-01-2016, 10:47 AM   #2
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Quite honestly, your best option is to buy a used 600E and fly it.

If you just like tinkering with things, I can see you doing the conversion. But, you will most likely get stuck at some point and it will end up back on the shelf. And you will be resentful that you "wasted" all the time & money on something that is back hanging on the wall.

If your "budget" is around $700 CD, then you can find a good, used, Trex 600E DFC on HF or RR and still have money left in your pocket for batteries and a charger.

If you are careful, you can find a good, used, T600E for $300 or $400 that includes the motor, ESC and maybe even the servos.

Last weekend, a guy shows up at the field with a pristine Trex 600 with a flybar and a 6S setup. He bought it from a guy on Craigslist (highly NOT recommended BTW) for $350 and it came with the full set of electronics and enough spare parts "to build a 2nd helicopter" and 3 batteries. It was complete and he spent about 2 hours getting it ready to fly.
It made me want to go back to the "old days".

Then fly it.
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Old 12-01-2016, 10:55 AM   #3
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+1
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Old 12-01-2016, 03:49 PM   #4
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A few years back I did such a conversion, just prior to 12S operation becoming the norm so I still fly it occasionally on its 6S setup.

If you search through my posts on the subject you will find quite a lot of information on that conversion. The only downside here being the wear on batteries as the current draw on 6S is quite substantial compared to 12S (half the draw).

From what I can remember on this is that designing a dual 6S battery compartment may be the sticking point on such a conversion, but even that has bee done.

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=249411

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...R3ed_7LvjUkwkg

I will try to find my previous posts and put a link here.
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Old 12-03-2016, 07:39 AM   #5
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Thanks for the links. The first one I already have saved into faves 2 weeks ago. 2nd one I just saved. I just picked up a ar7200bx for it if I decide to go FBL.The motor mount should be here in 4 days or so.

I thought about buying a kit,might have to do more research on it. I have found a couple of 600"s for sale,but the nearest one to me is 16 hours drive time. The other is 4 provinces,about 2200 miles away. Both guys wont ship either. I figure for a $13.00 mount,its well worth my time to check it out. I have 40 years of tinkering experience ,30 years of welding and fab experience...I should be able to figure something out me hopes!!

If not maybe I should go back to drinking lots of beer and fishing??
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Old 12-03-2016, 08:26 AM   #6
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Will the mount fit the width of the nitro frame or does it require 2mm sp;acers on each side as mine did?
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Old 12-03-2016, 09:59 AM   #7
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As far as I know,it will need the 2mm spacers.Did you use any frame strenghteners? I was thinking about getting/making some out of aluminum. As for cost wise,mount $13.00..motor $144.00 ...pinion bout 15 bucks or so. Oh and I found a mint 90amp esc for $50.00 bucks.So say in total $250.00 . Sell my new unused never fired nitro engine,fuel system,reactor x voltage reg .. etc should offset the cost some what.

I was going to do it FBL,but since I have the 760 gyro already,ar7000 RX I might just leave as is for now. Keep the cost down until I have the bugs ironed out.
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Old 12-03-2016, 02:11 PM   #8
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Funny you ask about frame re-enforcement, I had ordered them only to find my frame already had them installed....

I guess a 90A ESC is ok I got 100A and seems ok for my sport flying. I went for a 17T pinion for my 170T main gear giving me max headspeed of about 1100 rpm governed.
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Old 12-03-2016, 02:24 PM   #9
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I was just looking at the idiot manual and mine shows a 170T main gear also. What pinion do you recommend?
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Old 12-03-2016, 05:24 PM   #10
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Well that really depends on the kind of flying you intend to do. If you were to run a 1100KV motor, which my calculations are based on, you would comfortably be able to run headspeeds of up to 2100rpm governed with 17T and 2000-2200rpm with 18T if that size can be fitted. For my style of flying around 1900-2100rpm headspeed works well gives me a flight duration of about 6 minutes per 5000mAh pack.

I know some hard 3d guys who like to run a max of 2300-2400rpm and I think for that you need to replace the main gear to a 112 Mod1 and then go with a 13T mod1 pinion to comfortably run governed at 2400rpm.

I also have a rare out of production Castle Creations 1500KV crazy motor that could yield insane head speeds but have not used it as I an definitely not into the hobby for 3D.

So as you see, this really dependent upon the flying style and flight duration required.
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Old 12-03-2016, 07:26 PM   #11
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I don't mind headspeed. The motor is 1100KV and it was suggested 11 or 13T pinion. Its casual flying,maybe odd loops but nothing drastic. Maybe a 15 or 17 would be better? Whatcha think? 5 minutes of flight time would probably be good enough. I am thinking 13 might be a little slow. Or is the say 15T with a 90 amp esc gonna have to much draw?
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Old 12-03-2016, 10:20 PM   #12
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I am sure 11-13T was suggested on the basis of 112T main gear. For what you described get 16T & 17T if possible and try, 15T will be too slow, I started with the 15T but quickly realised it wouldn't work and dropped it.
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-CC ICE50,Scorp2221-8+12T,Sonix Head&Tail,5A BEC,HS65HB,Quark+3500G,AR7000,Align Carbon blades,TRex500 Skids,Flymentor.

Last edited by pril250; 12-04-2016 at 06:34 AM..
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Old 12-04-2016, 10:39 AM   #13
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Correction..Totally my mistake on the kv. Its a align RCM-BL600L engine that I should be able to use. Its listed at just over 1600kv. Looks like a max 85amp draw(60sec) I have no idea where I got the 1100 from.
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Old 12-04-2016, 11:40 AM   #14
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Ok, in that case a 13T will do you nicely and give you up to a max headspeed of 2300rpm comfortably (sufficient headroom) governed.

All my calculations are based on inputting the parameters into the Castle Link app. I am not sure what ESC you will be running and what programing options are available on it.
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Old 12-05-2016, 08:55 PM   #15
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Thanks for the info. An my motor mount showed up today!! Time to start measuring after I get my 230S and a friends co-ax fixed....Nah...his co-ax can wait!! I is like a kid in a candy store right now.
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Old 12-05-2016, 11:17 PM   #16
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Good luck and do report on your progress etc'
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Old 12-06-2016, 09:02 PM   #17
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So measuring things up...Frame is 2.115 wide,mount is 1.850= .265=6.73mm

So I would need to space out .265 or 6.73 mm. Might have to rig up a longer spacer mount to take care of frame flimsiness? The pic shows the mount with me holding it on left side of frame. Screwdriver shank placed in the front hole of the mount and lining up with the front slotted hole in frame above the engine. You can just see the pinion gear in the pic. You can also see the slotted hole for the engine mount. What ya think??

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Old 12-07-2016, 12:05 AM   #18
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I see what you mean, it is too late now and I am on my way to bed. I will have a close look at mine later today and pas you my thoughts,
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-CC ICE50,Scorp2221-8+12T,Sonix Head&Tail,5A BEC,HS65HB,Quark+3500G,AR7000,Align Carbon blades,TRex500 Skids,Flymentor.
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Old 12-07-2016, 07:06 AM   #19
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The distance between the frame plates is the same on mine (2.115in). I used Align H60033T motor mount which I think you are using.

I enlarged the square openings closer to the front to the screw size 3/4mm and then drilled another level to that towards the main gear (measure twice drill once).

Couldn't measure the width of my motor mount as the area is too cluttered....but you obviously need to use spacers to fit both sides of the mount, I think I may have made them out of Aluminum or spare Carbon Fiber, not sure. Be sure to use thread lock on the final assembly.
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T-Rex600-ICE100,WR10ABEC,Scorp4025-1100+17T,Kasama head,QUK Swash CNC Tail,G-Force blocks,3152,DS760+BLS251,DX7+AR7000,FM.
Blade400
-CC ICE50,Scorp2221-8+12T,Sonix Head&Tail,5A BEC,HS65HB,Quark+3500G,AR7000,Align Carbon blades,TRex500 Skids,Flymentor.

Last edited by pril250; 12-07-2016 at 11:42 AM..
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Old 12-07-2016, 10:33 PM   #20
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I removed the nitro tonight. Then mounted the front the mount in the frame using the 2 front holes.Swiveled it up and found some 1/8 steel plate at work. Surprisingly it slid between the mount and frame fairly snuggly. The steel plates can be seen sticking out from the left and right side of the frame. So here is where it is sitting right now for pinion clearance and motor movement.

Does it look like it should line up alright for back/forward motor adjustment?

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