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mCP X Blade Micro CPx Helicopters Information and Help |
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04-17-2011, 10:39 AM | #21 (permalink) | |
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Will the guy that came up with the idea please come forward Bob
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04-17-2011, 01:21 PM | #22 (permalink) | |
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To me, this forum is about the love of flying R/C helicopters. It is about the sharing of information and, on a good day, some humor. It is not about post count, brand of heli, or any other superfluous labels that lend themselves to a false sense of superiority. Respect one another, Try to pass on accurate information. Fly safe. |
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04-17-2011, 06:25 PM | #23 (permalink) | |
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04-18-2011, 10:49 AM | #24 (permalink) |
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Update after another Sunday of flying this thing almost non-stop. In fact this is the only heli I flew all Sunday. Was working on inverted piro circles and making great progress.
As I posted in the first post I went to a solid CF boom. People pointed out that doing this can now break your frame. I crashed bunches of times and well, I did not break the frame but did crash right on the tail hard and it did bend the plastic back end area off center a bit. It was easily straightened out. But I could see crashing just the right way hard onto the tail and breaking the frame. So I can see that it is possible to break the frame with a solid rod.. However, I am still sticking with the CF rod though. OK so I noticed that while doing a forward flight roll into inverted forward flight the heli wanted to break into a hover and I had to pull back elevator once I got inverted to stay in forward flight. Clearly this is a CG issue. So I broke the tabs off the pack and moved the pack all the way forward in the landing gear pack holder. WOW... made a big difference. This little heli is very sensative to even small changes in weight distribution. The CF rod absolutly changed the CG enough that the heli was effected. Just some more stuff I learned this weekend Bob
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04-18-2011, 02:33 PM | #25 (permalink) | |
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04-18-2011, 09:43 PM | #26 (permalink) | |||
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Here is the first post where it appeared, in which it's actual origin is accredited to a German heli forum. So if anyone's buying a beer, it should be a Warsteiner...
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Sent from my Telegraph using Morse Code Last edited by antmeeks; 04-19-2011 at 06:47 AM.. |
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04-21-2011, 03:18 AM | #27 (permalink) |
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Just thought id put some info in here myself being a newbee.. For the servo jitters instead ov taking them apart i just blew em out with 155Lbs ov air with my aircompressore and workd greate.. also lengthend my boom by 1 inch and big diffrence.. the srock battery looses power after 2 minuts and the hyperion 240 didnt do much better.. Stuch a thunderpower 325 45C and wow she came to life with no weight isues.. now i get 8 minut flights with 6 minuts full power.. U could probably use a 400mah if they make one .. But for now its thunderpower for me all the way.. Also got a 325 65C on the way doubt it will make much difrence but will let u all know.. I also use deans micro connectors and can tell a big diffrence in power and performance too.
Last edited by archibald38555; 04-24-2011 at 01:58 PM.. Reason: miss spelld word |
04-23-2011, 05:27 PM | #28 (permalink) |
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If anyone still flies with tail fin, take it off now. I've flown in 10 mph wind and no blow outs in backwards flying at all!
Great tip!
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04-23-2011, 09:48 PM | #29 (permalink) |
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I just added the extended tail boom and WOW, what a differance. Flips are a piece of cake now!! Can't belive I waited soooo long to do this mod. "Im finless as well on this little hopped up bumble bee" works great!
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04-25-2011, 08:30 PM | #30 (permalink) | |
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Here's a suggestion for fixing canopy pins. I've done this going back to my mSR and it seems to work pretty well. 1) Get a straight pin, grab it with a small pair of pliers, heat it in the flame on your stove, and use it to make a hole about 1/4" deep in the end of the canopy pin. Push it in and then remove it several times if you have to. Be careful not to get it too hot or it will melt the entire pin rather than just making a hole. See the 1st and 2nd photos. It's hard to see the hole in the 2nd but it's there (I got it a little too hot but it still worked). 2) Heat the pin again and this time make the mating hole in the frame. When you get it deep enough leave it in this time and let the plastic solidify around it. (3rd and 4th photos) 3) Clip the pin to the appropriate length to match the hole you previously made in the end of the canopy pin. (5th picture) 4) Get out your epoxy and glue the canopy pin over the straight pin as well as making a little bit of a "cast" around it. (6th picture) It takes a bit of a steady hand but it's not hard to do if you are patient. I expect that the pin should give it a bit more structural strength than epoxy alone.
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05-03-2011, 02:18 PM | #31 (permalink) |
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Found that if you dont push the canopy pins all the way through the grommets when you attach the canopy, they are much less likely to break off in a crash.
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05-04-2011, 07:17 AM | #32 (permalink) |
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Great write up. Lots of good info here as usual
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05-06-2011, 08:39 AM | #33 (permalink) |
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maybe use with the stock boom could just cut a lil off the battery plastic thing to make it fly better?
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05-06-2011, 09:58 AM | #34 (permalink) |
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Huh?
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05-06-2011, 11:28 AM | #35 (permalink) | |
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My experience is that the overall set-up is slightly nose heavy to begin with. If I pull the main gear down to disengage it from the pinion so the head/shaft can freewheel, install a battery, and then hold the heli on its side (main shaft horizontal) by the head, the nose tips down on mine (even with the extended tail boom). Thus I'm not sure I'd want to shift it further forward, particularly with the stock tailboom. Having said that, I'm not a skilled enough pilot that I'm doing the types of things Finless talked about and so I can't comment on whether mine seamlessly transitions from forward flight to forward inverted flight without excessive elevator stick correction! Someday......
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05-06-2011, 02:24 PM | #36 (permalink) |
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Maybe... but that sentance makes absoluteley no sence, at least not on this side of the hudson anyway.
You are right about it being nose heavy... even with the extended boom. However, for aerobatic flight I have found that a slightly forward CoG is actually beneficial, that’s probably why it’s like that in the first place. On the other hand, for slow precise flight a balanced bird is a must, and works much better than it does with a forward bias.
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05-06-2011, 02:52 PM | #37 (permalink) | |
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05-06-2011, 03:22 PM | #38 (permalink) |
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Just experiment till you find your sweet spot... and also keep in mind I said aerobatics, not 3D... for backwards or sideways flight a more balanced CoG is optimal. But the mCP X isn’t really a "3D" heli, I know it all depends on ones definition of 3D, but nobody is doing Piro toc tocs with this thing so...
Personally, when I fly outdoors with a bit of wind I get that battery as far forward as I can, for indoors or calm conditions I keep it close to neutral with a bit of nose bias. I only make it truly balanced for precision slow flight. Also, it’s nearly impossible to get it perfect with this little heli so don’t go crazy over it but don’t be afraid to play around with battery position. Here is a fun little experiment and interesting piece of info... because of the 3 axis gyro, a nose heavy bird will want to drift backward more, that’s the gyro overcompensating... Perfectly balanced it will almost hands-off hover.
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