Here is my mcpx brushless conversion with pics ,still video and flight video

[Souskei]

Originally Posted by tntburnett

Good looking out :-)

I added a 2.2k ohm resistor 1/4 Watt 5% tolerance to my set up. I solder one end to the yellow wire of the steve converter and the other end to the blue wire of the Steve converter. Here are some pics

Have a blessed week

Sent from my DROIDX

Thanks TNT!

I think I wanna go this route then try to solder on the main board..

A few question.. Do I go to radio shack a jus ask for a 2.2k ohms resistor 1/4 watt 5% tolerance?

Do I jus pit the resistor in-between the yellow wire an the positive motor plug?
And care to show a diagram with your expert art skill

[tntburnett]

Originally Posted by Souskei

Thanks TNT!

I think I wanna go this route then try to solder on the main board..

A few question.. Do I go to radio shack a jus ask for a 2.2k ohms resistor 1/4 watt 5% tolerance?

Do I jus pit the resistor in-between the yellow wire an the positive motor plug?
And care to show a diagram with your expert art skill

You are welcome. Go to radio shack and ask for that resistor :-). They are not high they are pretty cheap

Sent from my DROIDX

[tntburnett]

When I come from the lhs I will post a diagram up

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[tntburnett]

Here is where I put my resistor
You can get these from radio shack

Sent from my DROIDX

[Crashhappy13]

hey tnt i just ordered all the parts for the brushless conversion but the pinion gears are all back ordered does anyone no of another place to get them or a tleast does anyone no the inner diameter

[adroc3905]

Some pics of my mod using TNT's info.......thanks

[adroc3905]

I cut off 8mm from each SR120 tail blade tip so as to create enough space between the tail blades and main blades. The downwash on the mains would have caused issues with the SR120 tail blades had I not done this.

My first flight:

Main blades had power. Flips, rolls, loops and inverted were MUCH easier since you no longer have to baby feather the collective. I heard very little if any bogging and I currently run my pitch travel adj at 85%. You still cannot stick bang but it’s a vast improvement over stock form.

The SR120 tail mod however was disappointing. During pitch pumps it kicked out considerably and I had a piro flip that was only supposed to be a simple flip but the tail decided to spin on me. I am curious to see if the stock tail will do better but I have to think not since it’s a weaker motor with smaller disc area.

I might also mention I was flying is winds that were much stronger than I would attempt in stock form.

[tntburnett]

Originally Posted by adroc3905

I cut off 8mm from each SR120 tail blade tip so as to create enough space between the tail blades and main blades. The downwash on the mains would have caused issues with the SR120 tail blades had I not done this.

My first flight:

Main blades had power. Flips, rolls, loops and inverted were MUCH easier since you no longer have to baby feather the collective. I heard very little if any bogging and I currently run my pitch travel adj at 85%. You still cannot stick bang but it’s a vast improvement over stock form.

The SR120 tail mod however was disappointing. During pitch pumps it kicked out considerably and I had a piro flip that was only supposed to be a simple flip but the tail decided to spin on me. I am curious to see if the stock tail will do better but I have to think not since it’s a weaker motor with smaller disc area.

I might also mention I was flying is winds that were much stronger than I would attempt in stock form.

I had try The sr120 shorter tail blade also and the tail kick out on me that's way I went with keeping the tail blade at stock length no blow outs. I am still using the extended tail boom and my main blades and tail blades don't interfere with each other.

Sent from my DROIDX

[Crashhappy13]

whats the length of your boom

[Crashhappy13]

tnt so how long is your boom cause im trying to put the 120sr tail motor on it and i dont need the main blades interfering

[adroc3905]

The problem with using the SR120 tail mod and the extended boom together is that the CG is way off and with a FBL heli that creates issues during piros and inverted hovers. You would literally have to tape the lipo on the nose of the heli to even out the weight distribution if using a SR120 tail mod on an extended boom. I have the esc and the Hyperion 240's mounted in the front and the with the stock boom length the CG is perfect. If I extend my boom out by 2cm (mod length) I would have to add dead weight to the canopy to re-balance the CG of the heli. I may try going back to a stock tail setup and see if that is any better, the same or worse.....then toy with the ideal of a BL tail.

After all this $$ invested in the mCPx…………it would have been cheaper to go with a stock Walkera FBL BL heli with TT or belt tail. Oh well, live and learn.

[fretman]

Originally Posted by dbennettya

Where did you connect the yellow wire? If you connected it to the + motor output like Tnt then you may have to add a 1.8k to 2.4k resistor across the mCP X motor + and - terminals for it to work correctly. I got this input from Steve the designer of the Steve converter. Evidently the Steve has a high input impedance and may need a pull down when connected to an open drain off a P channel FET like the mCP X + motor output. Tnt you may want to add a resistor or just connect the yellow wire to the IC output at the resistor like Jon did as it is an active signal with fairly low impedance. Steve also said that the mCP X has some voltage sensing circuitry that may need the pull down resistor to work correctly.

Once again just because it works doesn't mean it is right (an old saying of mine)

YMMV, Don

What does that mean in layman terms? Will we end up frying something without the resistor place? I just did the bl mod and am connecting the yellow wire to the + of the main. And so far things are working great! Couldn't be happier with my mcpx now, even more reason to not wan to fry anything now. But I do hate to solder and rather avoid if not absolutely necessary.

[Goatkeeper]

Originally Posted by adroc3905

The problem with using the SR120 tail mod and the extended boom together is that the CG is way off and with a FBL heli that creates issues during piros and inverted hovers. You would literally have to tape the lipo on the nose of the heli to even out the weight distribution if using a SR120 tail mod on an extended boom. I have the esc and the Hyperion 240's mounted in the front and the with the stock boom length the CG is perfect. If I extend my boom out by 2cm (mod length) I would have to add dead weight to the canopy to re-balance the CG of the heli. I may try going back to a stock tail setup and see if that is any better, the same or worse.....then toy with the ideal of a BL tail.

After all this $$ invested in the mCPx…………it would have been cheaper to go with a stock Walkera FBL BL heli with TT or belt tail. Oh well, live and learn.

I held tnt's mcpx today and the cg is only slightly off, with the esc in the front to help add a little weight. But I promise you, if you saw it fly you would see that the cg imbalance made no difference in flight. The tail was absolutely glued in place. I can't wait to do this mod.

[dbennettya]

No you won't damage anything, but you may get better more linear throttle response with the pull down resistor. Maybe Tnt can weigh in and tell us if he noticed a difference with or without the pull down resistor.

Good Luck, Don

Originally Posted by fretman

What does that mean in layman terms? Will we end up frying something without the resistor place? I just did the bl mod and am connecting the yellow wire to the + of the main. And so far things are working great! Couldn't be happier with my mcpx now, even more reason to not wan to fry anything now. But I do hate to solder and rather avoid if not absolutely necessary.

[dbennettya]

With my BL mCP X and the 300mah Turnigy 35C batteries mine is quite nose heavy. So the SR 120 tail mod may make a perfect combo I'll find out when I do the mod and post it. I'm hoping that the tail will hold like it's on rails

Good Luck, Don

Originally Posted by Goatkeeper

I held tnt's mcpx today and the cg is only slightly off, with the esc in the front to help add a little weight. But I promise you, if you saw it fly you would see that the cg imbalance made no difference in flight. The tail was absolutely glued in place. I can't wait to do this mod.

[tntburnett]

Here is a video from todays fly n. Of the BL conversion and with the sr120 tail motor with full tail blade. Enjoy

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iY-XHfkW3eA&feature=channel_video_title[/ame]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1W31OnGiYQA&feature=channel_video_title[/ame]

[bl8zn]

Sorry if i missed it but what is the rtf weight of your bird.? If possible would you be able to weigh it also without your head and swash? This would be great info for those who would run stock head and swash.

[fretman]

Originally Posted by dbennettya

No you won't damage anything, but you may get better more linear throttle response with the pull down resistor. Maybe Tnt can weigh in and tell us if he noticed a difference with or without the pull down resistor.

Good Luck, Don

Thanks Don, mostly flying in 100% throttle idle up anyway... Going to leave this "I can't believe how much better it is" mcpx alone for awhile.

[tntburnett]

here is the thread i done for the mcpx thoughts


https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=316058

[Nytflyer]

Curious what motor I should use and what everyone's opinion would be. I have my thesteve converter on the way should be here this week and I have 3 motor options as I have some extra one's laying around from my wakera's.

So, my choices are the WK-003 which is the same as the helimax motor TNT is using. Next up is the Red Turbo Ace model 91416 and then the HP07 or HP06v2 whichever you prefer to call it.

Just wondering which one you guys would use if you had those 3 choices.