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mCP X Blade Micro CPx Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 03-17-2013, 10:12 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Smoked my 3 in 1 trying to re-solder batt leads @ board :(

Flew 10 batteries @ the park yesterday in 10 - 20 mph winds and seemed I was getting LVC on full collective moves ( pitch travel is 70% up & down) even just fighting into the wind the motor would start to bog and hit LVC.
So when I get home decide to pull leads off the 3 in 1 and re solder some 24awg wire I had, I'm not the best at soldering but I have re soldered several plug ends on my 120 sr as well as the batt plug side of my mcpx about a month ago, everything seemed to go good,
so I'm ready to test it about midnight, turn on dx6 plug batt in heli and as soon as batt makes contact... Both main and tail motor instantly spin up main spins for 5 seconds maybe then peters out tail motor spun fast at first then slowed...
So that sounds like both motor Fet's,
also I get no blue light tx doesn't appear to bind at all, can't get a servo to move or nothing so I'm a noob and screwed up, lesson learned that board side repairs are better left to the pro's, kind of erks me I messed this up since I am an electrician but I do comm/industrial electrical & solderings not part of the gig lol anywho LHS had 1 new 3 in 1 yesterday hopefully it will still be there @ 11 when they open.
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Old 03-17-2013, 11:13 AM   #2 (permalink)
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don't throw away the board, for $25 it can be fixed at megasmicros.com. Kevin can fix almost anything.
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Old 03-17-2013, 11:33 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for the contact will check it out. I'm pretty impatient so gonna buy a new board anyways but if this can be fixed for $25 hopefully I'll have a spare if or when new board goes south.
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Old 03-17-2013, 12:26 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Most likely you cooked the 3v regulator and the filter capacitor on the board. Neither of which is terribly difficult to change. The capacitor can be a little hard to source but not impossible.

More than likely what you were experiencing was not LVC.

Most people confuse LVC (Low Voltage Cutoff) and OCP (Over Current Protection)

Take a picture of the board back side of the board (the side nothing plugs into) and myself and some others might be able to tell you exactly what was cooked.
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Old 03-17-2013, 12:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Ok idk how to imbed pics straight off my I phone will try to get a pic up today, as far as lvc vs ocp idk it was acting the same as a month ago when I had to re- solder batt. Lead on the plug side because only a few strands were holding it together on the white wire. Is it normal with stock mcpx with good wiring to go in ocp just fighting a a good headwind?
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Old 03-17-2013, 01:03 PM   #6 (permalink)
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LVC means the battery is at a low enough charge level that the board will shut down to prevent damage to the battery. The symptoms I have experienced on both V1 and V2 boards were usually about the same. The blue light would flash a couple times followed by a pause then repeat that sequence. Servos would respond but not properly, Motors either continue to spin for a few seconds if they were being operated previous to LVC kicking in or they would be completely unresponsive.

OCP generally means that the system is drawing more current than the system is getting from the battery. Usually for me this has always meant a failed battery connector, or failed battery leads (Which with a stock mCPX is generally the case as Blade uses low quality wire for the battery leads). On both V1 and V2 boards OCP would present its self for me as a complete loss of control, No blue light at all. Sometimes when bird was back on the ground it would come alive again like it was working perfectly but upon spool up the bird would go back into OCP a couple seconds after the motors start to spin.

OCP can be caused by several things such as the battery connector, battery leads, slipped main gear, to much pitch travel, failed main or tail motor, binding servos.
Basically anything that causes the system to draw more amp's than the 3-n-1 is being supplied with.
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Old 03-17-2013, 02:16 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Ok new 3in 1 is in and just flew a batt through it & it definitely has alot more power than the old board did yesterday, comparing new to old looks like somehow I melted or broke off the little yellowish chip that sits right above the black batt lead.
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Old 03-17-2013, 02:49 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Yup thats the capacitor! its a 22uF, 16volt.

Look a bit further down the board on that same side, You will see 2 voltage regulators, (they are 3 leg black chips with 2 legs on one side and 1 leg on the other side. one is right side up the other is upside down) the one that has 2 legs facing up is the 3 volt regulator, and the one that has the 2 legs facing down is the 2.7 volt regulator. My guess is you probably melted the 3 volt regulator as well.
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Old 03-17-2013, 03:06 PM   #9 (permalink)
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The new boards flying great out @ the park now but...
It seems I'm having to re-bind every new battery I put in? I'm binding by plug heli in wait for blinking light then hold right rudder & Th and turn tx on but after unplugging then turning tx off, then turning tx back on then plugging in heli it's not bound anymore!?
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Old 03-17-2013, 03:13 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Binding improperly.

Read the manual again.

For me all I have to do is plug the battery in, hold trainer switch while turning on TX, Hold switch for 3 seconds or there about, release trainer switch, wait for solid blue light, Unplug battery, turn off TX.

Then Turn on TX, leave it on for about 5 to 10 seconds before plugging battery in. Plug battery in and fly!
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Old 03-17-2013, 03:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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you have to use the right rudder only if you purchased the mcpx as RTF with a radio and want to bind the heli to your dx6i. If you bought it as BNF or just the board by itself, it's programmed so that there is no need to hold the right rudder.
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Old 03-17-2013, 04:03 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Well it was a rtf my lhs pulled tx out of box & sold to me as a bnf lol I'm guessing I still gotta follow the rtf bind with right rudder, bound good last couple packs I flew so I think I got it right.
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:25 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Default Smoked my 3 in 1 trying to re-solder batt leads @ board :(

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Originally Posted by 01ws666 View Post
Well it was a rtf my lhs pulled tx out of box & sold to me as a bnf lol I'm guessing I still gotta follow the rtf bind with right rudder, bound good last couple packs I flew so I think I got it right.
Yes, but you only have to do the right rudder once on the first bind to your dx6i. Afterwards, no need but glad to hear there is no more problem
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Old 03-18-2013, 11:23 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Default Smoked my 3 in 1 trying to re-solder batt leads @ board :(

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Originally Posted by 01ws666 View Post
Ok new 3in 1 is in and just flew a batt through it & it definitely has alot more power than the old board did yesterday, comparing new to old looks like somehow I melted or broke off the little yellowish chip that sits right above the black batt lead.
You soldered your battery lead in backwards. Positive wire goes outboard. You blew the tantalum cap and maybe the FETs. Good news is that it can be brought back to life.
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