N5c clutch coming loose

[dbirds2]

20 flights on this heli with os55 hzr and having issue with clutch coming loose from fan hub. I have done everything short of using red loctite. It happens about the fourth flight. I take engine out retighten clutch and it comes loise. I know everytime it comes loise cause heli starts making rattling noise. I personally think the threads were bad on the fan hub out of box. Ive been fighting this from first new flight. Does anyone know if the align fan hub works in the n5c. I got a metalalign fan and brand new hub and clutch. Im not a fan of the plastic fan anyways. This sucks cause pulling engine to tighten bolts is a pain in the butt.

[dbirds2]

Doesnt matter now. Tge clutch bolts backed out again and jammed up whole clutch assembly, in return snapped my conrod on a brand new hzr motor. Not happy with this issue. My alignment was perfect with afree smooth turning starter shaft. If this is a common theme i will ditch this heli. I have zero patience for this issue. Im seeing alot of folks have issues on this n5c with clutch bell assembly. Its a nice heli and looks cool but coming from a trex 600 nitro which i never had one issue in 5 years, its a tough pill to swallow.i will talk to matt and see what he will do before i abandon ship.

[banshee rider]

Well it is not a common theme with my two N5C's that I have
Both of mine I used blue loctite put a dowel rod in the back of the engine
and tighten the crank nut with a 3/8 ratchet and forget about it

I have about 15 cases of fuel thru my old belt drive one
and I just opened the 3rd case for my new toque tube one

[dbcaster]

The three n5c's I've built have had zero issues. I also haven't seen a lot of people having issues with the n5c clutch bell. I think when people have issues it's from tightening to prop night too much. The prop nut should be snug not cranked down tight. The pinch bolts are what should secure the fan hub. There is no pulling force on the clutch screws so it's hard to figure why yours came loose. If you suspected that the threads were bad in the intial build. Matt would have taken care of it without question.

[dbirds2]

Its the only problem im having. Its just the clutch bolts. I do believe the threaded holes on fan hub were a little big, thus creating enough space for those bolts to break loose. I cleaned up the mess dropped my old ys 50 in and used a tiny bit of red loctite. I will test it here soon. Either way the fan hub holes r not perfect.

[dbirds2]

Too be honest the os55 hzr didnt get me to excited anyways. Very little difference between the 55 and my ys50. So im off to get the ys60. My buddy loves his ys 60. He said he thinks the ys60 tunes easier than os motors.most people would disagree but i havent fpund the os motors to be any different to tune than my ys and the ys has more power. I honestly think my ys 50 is the same as my os55 for power. Not much different

[ssrobzoom]

I have been flying OS Engines50/55 size Nitro Engines since 2005 and never had a clutch screws to back out nor a clutch adapter come loose off the motor crank. If you use the proper method on tighten the crank nut it will be there till the cows come home.

I too fly a Synergy N5C and it’s a great flying helicopter!!!

Attached is what I use to hold the crank in place while I tight down on the crank nut. Make sure all surfaces both the screws and internal threads where attaching the clutch are clean of oily residue, (lock tight will not work on oily surfaces) and use blue lock tight. DO NOT use the piston locking tool that goes in the glow plug hole, this will damage your piston!

If you have or don't want to use the fancy piston locking tool you can use an old tooth brush.

Go Team Synergy!!

[Chris Sexton]

The only time I have ever seen repeated clutch issues, it was the installer not making sure the clutch was seated Square. If the bolts tightened up and the clutch is square should be good. I use red Loctite here. I have built a dozen or more n5cs and have never had one come loose.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[dbirds2]

I never said it didnt fly great. I said the screws are backing out which is a pain to take motor out always. anyways with redloctite i got 6 flights with no problems but the threaded holes have been damaged from them backing out. I got a great crank lock tool and everything was perfect. I didnt pay much attention to it but on the initial build the screws and the holes were a little wonky, nalmost as if the threads were not properly done. I was thinking why is this being such a pain in the ass, when usually this process on a heli is super simple with not much thinking involved. i will talk to Matt on monday. I was also finally able to get some power out of this 55 but in all honesty I will be getting the ys60. even if I can squezze a little more out of this 55 it wont be enough for my taste. anyways thanx for ideas and input.

[boogie12]

I've never had this problem in over 300 flights and I tighten the hell out of the prop nut on my 55hz-r.

[dbirds2]

I wouldnt think this happens often but theres always a first. No heli ive owned is perfect except for my minicopters

[Helilids RC Hobbies]

Never had this issue either. I use Blue loctite but always the oil resistant version.
Cheers

[Rodney Kirstine]

I use Loctite 248. It's a semi-solid stick and it's oil resistant.

No matter what kind of thread locker you use, make sure you give it time to cure. Most of them take about 24 hours to fully cure.

[ssrobzoom]

Thumbs up on the Loctite Brand and letting it cure

Choose your version:


Loctite 248. It's a semi-solid stick:

http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/indus...=8797710090241

or

Loctite 243 liquid/paste

http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/indus...=8797710024705


either one should do the job!!

I personally use the stick and keep it in the field box.

[Rodney Kirstine]

Fixed mine. I meant to type 248 and went brain dead while typing it. I really like the stick much better than the liquid. It's a lot easier to apply and I'm a lot less likely to over-apply it.

[cml001]

While I do not know the flight count.. my N5C is about 2yrs old.. and my favorite bird in the fleet.. she get most of the attention. never had an issue here. I do use Loctite 243.. blue oil resistant. I would clean it up really good.. put it back together.. monkey fist them bolts in and have another go at it. I can't think of any reason it would just back out. Sorry I couldn't be of more help. Good luck.

[rctintin]

Your opening thread said you've tried everything "short of using red locktite", well, use red locktite then!!

I've had the N5 from day one, in fact my kit was in the first batch delivered to the UK. That frame did in excess of 500 trouble free flights.

Then I bought the N5c when it came out, and since converted it to the TT version. That frame has over 800 flights on it.

In that time, I've never had a clutch come apart. Did you degrease the bolts first? Why did you not use red locktite? Bolts that are under stress, and in the case of the clutch, possibly getting hot, Blue just does not cut it.

The problem now for you, is that I think you may have stretched the threads in the alloy hub as the bolts worked loose. Just buy yourself a new hub, degrease new bolts, and red lock them into place. You'll then have trouble free running fella.

[dbirds2]

Red loctite did the trick. 20 flivhts no issues. Now the kicker is my 55 hzr finally came to life and at 2125 it has lots of power. Its a missile and motor comes down at 190 degrees for 5.30 fligh times. Luv it. Also to add some sugar on this my new logo 700 will be gere today. Going to be a good summer.

[Rodney Kirstine]

Glad you got it all worked out.