CG light setup 380

[jsbach#1]

So I'm installing a Xnova 2820-890 kv and a HW 60 esc.
1800 packs and you have a nice disc load bird for small area flying my goal here.

But I am having a really hard time with CG, I got the battery as far forwards as possible. And its still way tail heavy. Suggestions ?

[dl5973]

Originally Posted by jsbach#1

So I'm installing a Xnova 2820-890 kv and a HW 60 esc.
1800 packs and you have a nice disc load bird for small area flying my goal here.

But I am having a really hard time with CG, I got the battery as far forwards as possible. And its still way tail heavy. Suggestions ?

Yeah the G380 is known for its heavy tail and CG not being good.

you need a heavier motor or esc up front to give you a more balanced heli.

I ran kde motor with hobbywing 60av4 and 1800mah. 6s Lipo. COG was good.

[jsbach#1]

Or a canopy that is longer in the front

[tonys-heli]

it still flys fantastic with the cg a little bit off.. the fbl handles most of it anyway and most of us reg flyers wouldn't even notice it being a bit off.

[jrman83]

Shift your ESC all the way to the front. If you need an ESC-FBL extension, use one. My CG is near perfect, but I do have a HW80 and also shifted all the way to the front and pack wires to the front.

[akamullen]

Im running the 890kv Xnova, Castle 100 lite, Castle 10a ext bec, BK servo's, 1800 pulse 65C, with absolutely perfect CG.

[BP58]

Late to the game but in case you didn't figure it out.

I have the exact same motor, esc, and packs as you. CG was way off. I turned the packs so the leads come out the rear and it's good now. Got them shoved all the way up as far as the canopy allows.

[jsbach#1]

Thanks for all the feedback , I didn't want to do extensions and I really wanted to use the quick connect battery system by Sab. That being said I swapped to a yge90 which gives a little more mass and should be ok now. I found that I age to have the battery even farther forward than what you're saying before.

[jsbach#1]

Little late updating this cause I just maidened it. I ended up doing my original 380 setup from when these first came out and it's still tail heavy. Yge90 and xnova tareq motor. 1800 45c pack pushed forwards all the way touching canopy and pack wires back Sab quick load system. Still tail heavy but flies mint. I don't mean a little tail heavy like a subtle hint I mean it swings tail down with authority when you hold the heli main shaft horizontal

[Unihiron]

Would it be a bad idea to just add weights if you are concerned about cg and then up the headspeed to compensate?

[toadiscoil]

I cheated and added lead weight to the nose until I got perfect CG. I CA'd rectangular flat lead pieces meant for pinewood derby and then taped them all with double sided tape to hold. Perfect so far although considering heavier ESC (80A already got one but need winter to build it in) and heavier packs although the positioning doesn't help with heavier packs unless they are not as long and you can actually shift weight forward. I want a bit more flight time.

Mine flies amazing and is super agile. To my skill level (low) it needs nothing. I want the 80A to remove the lead potentially and to start playing with iKon telemetry.

Mine is Xnova 890 with HW 60A currently. No servo extensions so the ESC is pushed a bit backwards which didn't help but the lead solved it.

I couldn't find a good place to mount the same lead weights on the 500 and CG is a bit off but indeed the FBL does its job and flies really well.

[jsbach#1]

Ya I was just being ultra fussy, I flown it now some and it works mint no problem. Sure its not absolutely perfect but I'm an average pilot sooo.

I was trying to build a slightly lighter 380 goblin but it didn't really work it was just too darn light in the front. Then adding weight defeats the purpose you know what I mean.

They need to make a 380 T edition

[toadiscoil]

It defeats the purpose yes but you don't really need to lighten up the model. If you run small packs and add weight to balance out it will still fly super agile given you use enough headspeed.

I think SAB will do something about the much loved 570 first before going back to the 380. That 570 is so well regarded though, they will have to think hard how to change it. I think it's due for a "Sport" revamp. We'll see how it goes.

Originally Posted by jsbach#1

Ya I was just being ultra fussy, I flown it now some and it works mint no problem. Sure its not absolutely perfect but I'm an average pilot sooo.

I was trying to build a slightly lighter 380 goblin but it didn't really work it was just too darn light in the front. Then adding weight defeats the purpose you know what I mean.

They need to make a 380 T edition

[jsbach#1]

I don't know if it needs or benefits from plastic main plate and upper plate. I was thinking more of the T treatment Especially the boom.

[toadiscoil]

I built a 500 Sport with some 500 "Classic" parts and I like it. I kept the entire transmission which includes the main aluminum base plate. I love it just like that and feels more robust. Hopefully I don't crash it anytime soon

I much prefer aluminum with Loctite on the frame. Feels much better. The 380 entire frame is a tank. You can break everything but breaking a frame side or the main plate or main shaft proves to be a task for only the hardest of re-kit type crashes.

I am moving away from servo aluminum mounts though. Loctite on such small screws is not good as I painfully found out and now I have a screw I can't get out. As soon as I can I will move back to plastic on that one. But other than that I think you need better skills to appreciate a weight reduction on the same heli. It needs to be completely redesigned to actually feel lighter. Still put enough power on it and it will fly well regardless in my opinion.

[crsorrell0653]

Originally Posted by toadiscoil

I am moving away from servo aluminum mounts though. Loctite on such small screws is not good as I painfully found out and now I have a screw I can't get out. As soon as I can I will move back to plastic on that one.

What grade of Loctite are you using. I use the mildest one (222 - pink) and never have any trouble even on the smallest screws.

[mba83]

I flew my G380 with CG being a little off. Didn't feel it in flight, but sure did feel the weight savings

So my advice is to not worry about the CG with this heli. Not worth adding the weight in the front IMO.

[jsbach#1]

Originally Posted by toadiscoil

I built a 500 Sport with some 500 "Classic" parts and I like it. I kept the entire transmission which includes the main aluminum base plate. I love it just like that and feels more robust. Hopefully I don't crash it anytime soon

I much prefer aluminum with Loctite on the frame. Feels much better. The 380 entire frame is a tank. You can break everything but breaking a frame side or the main plate or main shaft proves to be a task for only the hardest of re-kit type crashes.

I am moving away from servo aluminum mounts though. Loctite on such small screws is not good as I painfully found out and now I have a screw I can't get out. As soon as I can I will move back to plastic on that one. But other than that I think you need better skills to appreciate a weight reduction on the same heli. It needs to be completely redesigned to actually feel lighter. Still put enough power on it and it will fly well regardless in my opinion.

Actually you still use proper bolts and loctite on almost all the plastic locations it has metal inserts in the plastic I use loctite on them. So that's not a problem.

I like reading people's feedback. I'll share mine. I built a light 500 sport. So I bought an airframe and then went with yge 120, pyro 600-12, and light jr servos. It ended up being TOO LIGHT. Seriously too light in any wind. So I'm slowly going backwards as opportunity presents itself haha I installed typical weight kst servos and picked up a scorpion 4020-1100 from a friend doesn't want it.

It was keeping that in mind I don't really think the 570 needs to be lighter per se but definately could use some freshening up. I'd do new boom go for a smaller cross section. I would do a new better looking canopy. I'd keep proper skids. And I would definately revisit the motor mounting dimensions. Most 570's I see could be smoother imo and the vibe it seems to be starting at the motor/motor mount. I think the head and tail are great.

[jrman83]

Originally Posted by jsbach#1

Actually you still use proper bolts and loctite on almost all the plastic locations it has metal inserts in the plastic I use loctite on them. So that's not a problem.

Servo mounts on the 380 do not have metal inserts for the servos, only underneath where they mount to the plate. That is not a tiny screw. You cannot use loc-tite.