130x Subtrims and gyro settings - your #'s

[TomC]

Not a debate on whether or not you should use subtrims with this heli, just interested to hear what others are using.

My current subtrim settings on my DX7 are;

Aile R6
Elev D3
Rud L6
Pit L17 (for zero blade pitch at mid-stick)

I've never had to change any of these subtrims over time except the pitch subtrims when I change blades or reassemble the mainshaft (originally, out of the box it did not require any pitch subtrim btw).

As far as gyro settings go, the only one I've found useful to change is -3 gain on rudder to stop a bit of tail wag.

My 130x flys beautiful, love it!

cheers,
TomC

[Willyboy]

Mine is:

Rud L6

Gyro -5 Rud

What really helped with the vibrations is I just installed the complete Boca bearings and metal A gear. I now have zero vibrations and never thought that I could get rid of them. My bird is so smooth and sweet,it's like falling in love all over again.

[65L88]

Heli #1--Rudder L2, Rudder gyro -3.

Heli #2-- All zeros.

[mtuccio]

0, 0, 0 for all THREE helis.

If I had to use sub trim then I would be getting another board because there is something wrong with the sensor and/or whatever calibration has been done with it (if any is even done).

Hope this helps....

[TomC]

Originally Posted by mtuccio

0, 0, 0 for all THREE helis.

If I had to use sub trim then I would be getting another board because there is something wrong with the sensor and/or whatever calibration has been done with it (if any is even done).

Hope this helps....

I think as long as your subtrims stay pretty constant, and are not large enough to start binding servo endpoints, it's not worth replacing the board imho.

Cheers,
TomC

[65L88]

Originally Posted by TomC

I think as long as your subtrims stay pretty constant, and are not large enough to start binding servo endpoints, it's not worth replacing the board imho.

Cheers,
TomC

I gotta agree, comes a point ya gotta quit being picky if you want to fly. IMO a few clicks of trim is no big deal as long as the heli flies without issue.

[litehawkdown]

Aileron 13R

Elevator 5D

Rudder 9L

Gains all at 0

Getting it off the ground out of the box was a bronco ride before I trimmed it out

[DoubleCH]

Subtrims:
Aileron L12
Rudder R7
Elevator 0
Pitch D8 (smallest subtrim I can get, 1 full turn down on servo linkages results in U16 subtrim)

Gains:
Aileron -2 before servo cleaning, 0 after servo cleaning and brass nuts tightened.
Elevator same as above
Rudder 0 with DS35 servo on 1st servo horn hole closest to center

Vibe-free, wag-free, wobble-free. Can hover hands off for about 3 seconds.

[coredump]

Yes, a few click of sub trim should not matter much on the flight at all.
It should have the same effect to the heli as if the calibation done right
from FBL software point of view.

[HeliHoverAP]

Wow. I can't believe how many are using subtrim!

0-0-0 for me.

[jmisuraca]

Subtrims:
Aileron 4L
Elevator 5U
Rudder 3R
Pitch -5 (smallest subtrim I can get)

Gains:
Aileron 0
Elevator 0
Rudder -6

Vibe-free, wag-free, wobble-free.

[m1crochip]

How about leveling your swash and rebinding...

[JWB885]

Zero..... If you are using trim you need to step back and rethink your set up , something is wrong

[smoothb10]

I to have zero trims and zero tail vibs through the whole throttle range.

[litehawkdown]

Originally Posted by JWB885

Zero..... If you are using trim you need to step back and rethink your set up , something is wrong

You would think! But then again you might have a bad gyro that does not read zero on the TX right. The result is Zero to the Gyro is right rudder 9 left aileron 13 and up elevator 5. Makes the heli do things on its own. No way to mechanically set that up right. Only fix is a new board or subtrim.

[DoubleCH]

+1

If you think something is wrong mechanically, you're way wrong. The only way to prevent the gyro continuously tilt swash or move tail servo to max with no stick input is subtrims or replace the board. Despite what you think to level the swash mechanically 1st for a flybar heli, you level the swash mechanically on the 130X ONLY AFTER you correctly subtrim the cyclic channels.

For those who have a mainboard requiring no subtrim, consider yourself lucky. Unlike mCPx mainboard which always calibrates the gyro correctly to require no subtrims, 130X mainboard seems to have a bad calibration procedure or none at all.

[JWB885]

Lite.... Ya that is my point step back realize you have a bad board/gyro etc... And you are making these trim adjustments because of that.


mCPx (like), 120sr (junk), 130x (hate), 300x (luv,luv,luv), 450x( luv, luv)
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[HeliHoverAP]

Well I was keeping my mouth shut because the op did not want any debates. Sorry.

If your are using subtrims/trim to remove drift in flight on a fbl Heli, there is a problem.

Let me explain. If you put, say, 15 clicks of up elevator, and the others are at zero, the elevator is going to travel 15 "clicks" further than the rest and 15 clicks shorter on the other side, and around 7.5 clicks around 50% deflection and so on. What you are doing is introducing cyclic interaction. You noobs that are using subtrim might not even notice it, but it is there.

This is a very basic Heli setup rule.

[DoubleCH]

You're way wrong by what you've learnt from your general past experience on other helis. The reason the 130X swash drift is not to calibrate individual servo movements. It's because the gyros on the mainboard is off-calibrated (most likely a bad calibration scheme in the firmware). The mainboard mistakenly thinks that the bird has constant pitch and roll when there's no stick input (once again off-calibrated gyro).

So what does the mainboard do when it incorrectly reads the gyro? Tilts the swash in the opposite directions to compensate the constant pitch and roll rates that are off-calibrated just like you put constant stick input in those directions to compensate.

So what's the correct way to fix this problem short of replacing the board? Use subtrims to add constant pitch and roll rates that match what mainboard thinks are zero pitch and roll rates. That way, at no stick input the mainboard will read gyro values matching what the desired values are to not tilt swash to compensate.

[Willyboy]

Is it possible to re-calibrate the gyro on the 130X and if so, how do you go about doing it? I put five flights on my bird this morning for a total of 40 flights so far. It is running so smooth and sweet, I am afraid to adjust anything because I have done just about all the mods suggested on this forum and it really has my bird humming great! I don't even think I could tell the difference because I am not experienced at this but I would like everything to operate according to procedure.