My BL & MH upgrades + swash a/r mod

[Adam T]

Thanks Micro-Maniac for the inspiration. Here's my version.... https://www.helifreak.com/showthread...90#post3584790

I wanted a removable A/R guide, so I made a bracket for my MicroHeli frame and bolted the A/R guide on.

[Adam T]

questerng: Nice and simple. Excellent use of the KISS principle!

[Spunjah413]

Originally Posted by Adam T

questerng: Nice and simple. Excellent use of the KISS principle!

+1, I made a spare frame using his method. Honestly after utilizing it, its significantly stronger than any of the methods I previously using the stock A/R guide. Think ill stick with his method for now. Need a few more parts befor I can give it a proper crash durability test, lol. My last crash kind of snapped my FS in half, .

[fr34k]

Is Dylan making one we can buy? If so, do we know when it will be available please?

Will there be one that fits the stock plastic frame?

[questerng]

Thanks guys,

I'm not sure what Happen.. but I've got a vibration issue.. causing the tail to hunt and not hold..

I was using the MH frame.. but change back to the stock frame for this mod..

I'm still figuring out a better method to do this mod for the MH frame..

quest

[shame302]

Originally Posted by Spunjah413

I like that method.

My current method has shown not to be so strong. It's as if crashes actually put more stress on the bracket than befor. With yours being beefed up with CF rod an having more frame area to grab into, that may be the method to handle crashes better.

That kind of sucks. I was looking forward to doing it this way. I'm sure I'll come up with something. I ordered some of this: http://shapelock.com/ for giggles. Maybe it has an application here....

[Spunjah413]

Originally Posted by shame302

That kind of sucks. I was looking forward to doing it this way. I'm sure I'll come up with something. I ordered some of this: http://shapelock.com/ for giggles. Maybe it has an application here....

Im not saying it doesn't work, im just saying it's just not strong in event of a crash. It held up perfectly threw all my batts til I had a bad crash, but in all honesty with as much power as my heli is making, crash damage can get pretty significant.

I think it just needs more modofication and stiffening. Honestly the 2x CF tube is super easy, and seems way more durable, which is why I went ahead and changed mine.

Ive seen that shapelock stuff befor, im sure youll def find some good use for it! Stuff is remoldable too incase a design doesn't work. Post up anything you come up with!

[jabu32]

Originally Posted by questerng

Re-do it with 2mm carbon rod.. lengthen it for clearance at max pitch+ele.. and it's also easier to put in.. No need to bend the A/R pin or guide..

epoxy 15min.. I think this should be strong enough for their purpose..

I had to cut off some of the frame to fit.. so that the rod has a bit more surface for bonding.. It sit all the way down where the tail boom housing is..

what is the length of the cf rod?

[questerng]

Originally Posted by jabu32

what is the length of the cf rod?

It's 32mm.. You could go 33mm.. for more clearance..

I'm recasting another A/R guide for the MH frame.. I'm hoping it will work..

will show picture of it.. soon..

[Adam T]

Took my A/R modified mCPx out for its first post-mod flights this morning. THIS IS THE BEST MOD EVER!!!! I seriously cannot believe how much more accurately it flies. I did sustained consecutive elevator flips for the first time today. Before this mod, I was lucky to eek out one clean flip with my mCPX. Attempts at consecutive flips always ended up washing out due to uncommanded roll, followed by the throttle hold switch.

Thanks MicroManiac for the tip. Totally psyched about this mod.

[questerng]

Hi,

I tried using the old guide to mod before I change to the CF rod( too short).. I took it out.. and it broke off more..

So what I did is re-cast this with plastic repair kit..(did some bending test.. so far so good..)

some pic to show what it look like now..

One of the picture show a wooden stick.. I use that as a moulding cast..

I had to mould a few layer to build up the hight I want..

Now I can either CA this on the boom block or epoxy it on.. No damage to the CF frame.. and even if it break off doesn't damage anything.. Cheaper to replace the boom brace then the whole frame..

Now to find a better way to secure the pin to the MH swash..

I like the idea of the pin going thru the swash in replace the old rear ball.. and epoxy a metal rod.. Like someone posted in an earlier post..

Just not sure how I can remove the original ball( without damaging it..

anyway..

[fr34k]

What about two pieces of 2mm carbon rod to length with a much shorter piece in between at the bottom where mounting to the frame, keeping the rods perfectly parallel and the correct distance apart and the new AR guide from 2mm rod also, simple and perfect fit, minimal slop
Could close it at the top the same way if necessary

like this:

From the back:

lll
l l
l.l
l l
lll
lll
[frame]


l = 2mm carbon rod
. = end of anti rotation guide


From the back with heli on side:

============
=== ---- O ---- = [frame]
============


= = 2mm carbon rod
O = end of anti rotation guide, not to scale
(- = empty space, consecutive spaces were deleted upon submission)


One way to mount it to the stock plastic frame would be to continue the two outside rods beyond the lower short piece briding them, to straddle the frame above the boom mounting hole:

=================
=== ---- O ---- = [frame]
=================

Then build up the frame thickness to 2mm and glue rods to frame



Any suggestions for a method to attach the 2mm rod to MH swash and ensure it is perfectly perpendicular?

[questerng]

I've done that with the stock frame.. Check earlier thread.. this is for the MH frame.. And to not have somthing too permanent on the frame.. That in case there's a crash.. No need to sacrifice the whole frame..

[fr34k]

Could you post a link to that please?

[questerng]

Post #79..

[fr34k]

Ahh, found it, thanks! I was looking for previous threads rather than previous posts in this thread, because you said "Check earlier thread"

[Adam T]

Originally Posted by questerng

Hi,

I tried using the old guide to mod before I change to the CF rod( too short).. I took it out.. and it broke off more..

So what I did is re-cast this with plastic repair kit..(did some bending test.. so far so good..)

some pic to show what it look like now..

One of the picture show a wooden stick.. I use that as a moulding cast..

I had to mould a few layer to build up the hight I want..

Now I can either CA this on the boom block or epoxy it on.. No damage to the CF frame.. and even if it break off doesn't damage anything.. Cheaper to replace the boom brace then the whole frame..

Now to find a better way to secure the pin to the MH swash..

I like the idea of the pin going thru the swash in replace the old rear ball.. and epoxy a metal rod.. Like someone posted in an earlier post..

Just not sure how I can remove the original ball( without damaging it..

anyway..

Nice! I've never seen a plastic repair kit like that.

[Micro-Maniac]

I was having minor stops and kicks issues with my tail using a V2 board so I swapped in a V1 board and had a major CCW tail drift. I had to hold some right rudder to keep it from rotating. Came to find my rudder channel wasn't centering. It was off about 10% and jittering so had to crack open my DX8 and fiddle with the pot. Rebinded and worked great. Took it out for a couple test flights in high wind and the heli performed superb except still has a very slow smooth CCW drift even though my TX is showing the rudder channel centering good now.

I really like the way it flies. All maneuvers are clean and axial with my a/r mod. HP05 seems about the right amount of power for my flying style at the moment. Pulled off a bunch of decent consecutive 4:1 piroflips which is a staple maneuver for me. Flips, rolls, inverted backwards hurricanes, nose down and nose up funnels and some mild tic-tocs and rainbows which I've never had much practice at. Other than the very slight drift the tail held great through all of it.

Looking forward to calmer days to get an even better feel for it.

[questerng]

Originally Posted by Micro-Maniac

I was having minor stops and kicks issues with my tail using a V2 board so I swapped in a V1 board and had a major CCW tail drift. I had to hold some right rudder to keep it from rotating. Came to find my rudder channel wasn't centering. It was off about 10% and jittering so had to crack open my DX8 and fiddle with the pot. Rebinded and worked great. Took it out for a couple test flights in high wind and the heli performed superb except still has a very slow smooth CCW drift even though my TX is showing the rudder channel centering good now.

I really like the way it flies. All maneuvers are clean and axial with my a/r mod. HP05 seems about the right amount of power for my flying style at the moment. Pulled off a bunch of decent consecutive 4:1 piroflips which is a staple maneuver for me. Flips, rolls, inverted backwards hurricanes, nose down and nose up funnels and some mild tic-tocs and rainbows which I've never had much practice at. Other than the very slight drift the tail held great through all of it.

Looking forward to calmer days to get an even better feel for it.

How's your JB weld holding up for the A/R pin on the swash..

I'm trying to see if the Ball at the back can be remove.. and replace by a sewing pin that has a ball at the end..

I've read somewhere before that it can be done..

will search some more..

On the same note on tail driff.. some how the tail is not holding.. I don't know what happen.. I'll try rebinding it and see if it helps..

[Micro-Maniac]

I've broke my pin off a couple times while working on the heli. First time I ruffed up a larger area for more JB. When that one broke off it was nicely molded to the shape of the swash so I CA'd it back on and it's holding better than ever now. (CF Pin>JB>CA>Alum Swash)

My tail drift is really not bad at all. I few clicks of trim seems to have cured it until I'm motivated to investigate what's really going on. I'm really not too concerned with it since it's holding perfect with it trimmed out. I'll see if the same thing happens with my 500 the next time I fly it to see if it's my radio still not centering or something with the mcpx only.