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Old 10-03-2016, 10:20 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question Convert Trex 700 DFC to 700X

Just wondering if anyone is considering converting their Trex 700 DFC to 700X?


What all parts would be needed and what would the cost to do so.
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Old 10-03-2016, 11:01 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Almost every single part on the frame has been changed, I wouldn't really think it would be cost effective to convert, although it can be done.

If you browse through the 700X parts section on aligntrexstore.com you can get an idea price wise what your looking at. You would basically need to build up an entire frame section, including front electronics mount and boom block as those parts are also narrower.

I can provide you with all the links when I have some time, but if you browse a little bit you should be able to put together all the "X" specific parts especially since you already know what parts you have available to you from your DFC model.
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Old 10-03-2016, 11:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Default Convert Trex 700 DFC to 700X

I can get the list too ... but not too sure if one way and all is new ... I was thinking just the frame parts .... keep the main gear, one way , and 800mx

Just was not sure if this mix is possible easily

So I just posted a broader question .... even if it's cost prohibitive but what all will it take ?

A little more back ground ... I am trying to sell my best and favorite heli 700 dfc to fund a 700x ... I getting next to nothing for it ... if i am to lose , say $600 in Sale price and then buy a 700x would it cost less than loss just to convert .... if so then it may be worth it
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Old 10-04-2016, 10:35 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Here is a approximate list ...


  • Aluminum Hexagonal Bolt HN7048 $6.99
  • 700FL Main Rotor Holder Arm- H70H006XX (Non-DFC) $19.99
  • 700 CCPM Metal Swashplate H70H005XX $40.99
  • 700X Carbon Fiber Main Frame(L)-2.0mm H70B005XX $34.99
  • 700X Carbon Fiber Main Frame(R)-2.0mm H70B006XX $34.99
  • Linkage Ball Set HN7065 $10.99
  • 700X Servo Mount Set H70B009XX $17.99
  • 700X Canopy Support Set H70B010XX $6.99
  • 700X Carbon Fiber Main Frame-2.0mm H70B007XX $27.99
  • 700X Carbon Fiber Main Frame-2.0mm H70B007XX $27.99
  • 700X Canopy Mounting Bolt H70B011XX $6.99
  • 700X Shapely Reinforcement Plate And Brace Assembly H70B012XX $20.99
  • 700X 3K Bottom Plate H70B013XX $19.99
  • 700X Receiver Mount H70B014XX $13.99
  • 700X Control Arm Set H70H010XX $20.99
  • 700X Tail Boom Mount Set H70T010XX $15.99
  • 700X Motor Pinion Gear Bearing Mount H70B020XX $19.99
  • 700X FL Designed Main Rotor Housing Set H70H004AX $32.99
  • 700X Frame Mounting Block H70B015XX $20.99
  • 700X Main Shaft Bearing Block H70B016XX $28.99
  • 700X The 3rd Main Shaft Bearing Block H70B017XX $13.99
  • 700X Painted Canopy HC7655 $83.99
  • 700X Frame Mounting Bolt H70B019XX $10.99
  • D6FF Metal Servo Horn(M2.5)-Red HSP61015QR $23.99
  • 700X Canopy Support Set H70B010XX $6.99
  • 700E Tri-Blades Linkage Rod Set H70Z007XX $10.99

Total $582.74
10% $58.27
Final Cost $524.47


I may have missed a thing or two so approximately a $600 project at best
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Old 10-04-2016, 10:36 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Any one knows if the one way assembly is same as the old DFC model?
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Old 10-04-2016, 10:47 AM   #6 (permalink)
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The one-way bearing case is a little different, you can see the differences in the diagram by going to the link below. Otherwise though, the sprague bearing itself is the same. You can use your previous assembly.

http://aligntrexstore.com/One-way-Be...XX_p_3610.html
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Old 12-19-2016, 06:13 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Hi,

At least you can install the lower profile FL head using some parts. The cost will be around $80 including the new counter linkages (turnbuckles) and buying the new DFC main shaft the 700x uses, but you can use the original DFC linkages all around and work out the original DFC main shaft. More info below.

The new main shaft is basically a DFC main shaft with the upper threaded holes bored to accept the shouldered 4mm screw that now pass through the hub and main shaft. So if you workout the threaded main shaft and use the DFC linkages, the cost will be less than $50.00 for the head conversion.

Summing up, you will end with the same head the new 700x and 700L V2 helis have.

Following is the list:

H70093A
Align Main Shaft Set (700E DFC)
Total: $19.99

H70H010XX
Align Control Arm Set (700X)
Total: $20.99

H70H004AX 700X FL Designed Main Rotor Housing Set H70H004AX
$32.99

H70Z007AX 700X Counter Thread Main Linkage Rod Set
$15.99

Regards,

David
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Old 12-20-2016, 07:24 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I suggest getting 700X kit only. Comes with 490kv dominator motor for $770.99 on xmas special. Then off your 700 DFC airframe.

Castle 120 will hang with 490kv unless your a smack/aggressive flyer. Just be sure to allow sufficient cooling time.
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Old 12-20-2016, 08:29 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Could also put a fan on the 120. No way to actually mount it but zip ties worked well for me.
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Old 12-21-2016, 03:01 AM   #10 (permalink)
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When I first got my 700X I had a light crash. Due in part to the poor availability of 700X spares at the time I picked up a un-flown airframe to use for a parts donor.
After fixing up my heli this left me with most of the airframe remaining including full new unflown and 100% complete frame set and complete unused head assembly (missing only one grip control arm) with mainshaft and gears, also a canopy with only minor damage.

The front landing gear struts and the grip arm is all that would be needed to do a complete 700L > 700X upgrade

If there was interest I could list these parts in the classifieds section with photos etc?
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Old 12-21-2016, 10:17 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim@AssuranceRc View Post
I suggest getting 700X kit only. Comes with 490kv dominator motor for $770.99 on xmas special. Then off your 700 DFC airframe.

Castle 120 will hang with 490kv unless your a smack/aggressive flyer. Just be sure to allow sufficient cooling time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Number View Post
Could also put a fan on the 120. No way to actually mount it but zip ties worked well for me.
The fan won't do a thing to aid in the cooling. This come from actual experience.

Best solution: Side mounting.

BTW, When I used the fan when I had the ESC mounted at the front, I used self tapping 2.5x14 (or so) hex round head screws and worked fine.
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Old 12-21-2016, 12:18 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Fans make a huge difference in cooling. The difference between being able to run a 100A ESC on a 550 in hard 3D without issue, and having it over temp and shut down. At least in my actual experience...
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Old 12-21-2016, 12:27 PM   #13 (permalink)
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The effectiveness of the fan will depend on where the ESC is mounted. if it's on the side of the heli in the open then it's already getting blasted with air from that big fan on top of the heli, so another tiny fan isn't going to improve it much more.
On the other hand if the ESC is buried away inside the frame or under the canopy where there isnt much air movement then a fan should make a significant difference.
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Old 12-21-2016, 12:42 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Idk. Had the ESC mounted on the side of my 550. No fan, ran super hot. Like it would burn you. Put the fan on and it ran significantly cooler.
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Old 12-21-2016, 04:18 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Number View Post
Fans make a huge difference in cooling. The difference between being able to run a 100A ESC on a 550 in hard 3D without issue, and having it over temp and shut down. At least in my actual experience...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpy_Old_Man View Post
The effectiveness of the fan will depend on where the ESC is mounted. if it's on the side of the heli in the open then it's already getting blasted with air from that big fan on top of the heli, so another tiny fan isn't going to improve it much more.
On the other hand if the ESC is buried away inside the frame or under the canopy where there isnt much air movement then a fan should make a significant difference.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Number View Post
Idk. Had the ESC mounted on the side of my 550. No fan, ran super hot. Like it would burn you. Put the fan on and it ran significantly cooler.
I had the ESC under the canopy, and the fan (Castle one) didn't lower the temp more than 5 degrees F. Was a waste of time and money. Placed the ESC where it is now, and problem solved. Temps lowered 15 degree F +s overall.

You all have different experiences, and you should use what works for you.

I live in a tropical climate: High humidity, HOT temps all year, and almost at sea level.
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Last edited by davehour; 12-21-2016 at 06:08 PM..
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Old 12-28-2016, 09:31 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Hi guys,

This is the 700X and 700L V2 head in a 700E PRO DFC which had a FL head. The FL head is 20mm taller than the DFC head, but the new design of the FL hub and DFC main shaft, bring the head back to the original DFC height. I never liked the look of the heli after I installed the FL head, being so taller.

Of particular interest of the new FL head of the 700X and 700L V2 models is that now, the ball link that connects to the grip ball link, is installed in the outer hole of the awash plate. This raises the cyclic deflection almost 3 degrees than when the ball was used in the inner hole. This change will make the cyclic more responsive.

I haven't flown the heli yet. I'll let you know how it does when I have a chance to fly it.

As you can see in the pictures, turnbuckles are now used in the 700X. They are 42mm long vs 44mm of the DFC ones. I see less threads are inside the ball ends of the servos linkages. I might install back the DFC ones and use the turnbuckles in the grips only. What do you think?

Nevertheless, it's still a good upgrade as it makes the zero collective setup a breeze. and so the tracking adjustment.

Hope this help, and feel free to post your comments.

David.
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Last edited by davehour; 12-29-2016 at 04:48 AM..
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