New oxy owner :-)

[kona0915]

Originally Posted by BrokeDad

Just FYI you will have to trim the servo horn facing the motor to make it move past. It's looking great buddy. Mine are using hole #2 on that one and hole #1 on the other two cyclics with the KST215's. If you want pics I got 'em.

Cool thanks.

Ok Fellas' next possible boo boo
Question about the FBL I got the micro brain2 and not the brain 2, is that going to cause any issues? I was in a hurry on black friday since Lynx had the 30% sale going and things were selling out like hotcakes so I rushed and ordered.

[BrokeDad]

Originally Posted by kona0915

Cool thanks.

Ok Fellas' next possible boo boo
Question about the FBL I got the micro brain2 and not the brain 2, is that going to cause any issues? I was in a hurry on black friday since Lynx had the 30% sale going and things were selling out like hotcakes so I rushed and ordered.

You are gonna need the micro to regular servo adapters like on my 450X or cut/splice/solder wires to get rid of the adapter stuff.

Here they are:

https://www.mshusa.com/products/jr-f...cro-brain-50mm



I think I have an extra set as I ordered two thinking I'd need five instead of the four. Why I just went with another mini VBar since Oxy 3 #1 already came with one. I don't think there was a mini Brain/Ikon in the first version just a micro and a full size.

Found the extra set .. sent PM if you need them call and I will mail. No charge. Or PM back address.

[jrman83]

Originally Posted by BrokeDad

Just FYI you will have to trim the servo horn facing the motor to make it move past. It's looking great buddy. Mine are using hole #2 on that one and hole #1 on the other two cyclics with the KST215's. If you want pics I got 'em.

The directions state to trim all 4 servo horns. It also states to use hole #1 on the tail servo (or 7.5mm from center of screw/post) and hole #2 for the cyclic servos (or 10mm). You should default to distance if not using the supplied servo horns. Just a fyi. Throwing geometry off, even a little, will matter when adjusting things like cyclic pitch.

[BrokeDad]

Originally Posted by jrman83

The directions state to trim all 4 servo horns. It also states to use hole #1 on the tail servo (or 7.5mm from center of screw/post) and hole #2 for the cyclic servos (or 10mm). You should default to distance if not using the supplied servo horns. Just a fyi. Throwing geometry off, even a little, will matter when adjusting things like cyclic pitch.

Hmmm... I moved them out one and it doesn't look the same as my other one. I'm using the horns that came with the KST servos. Here is a picture with them both (Left=building, Right-=flying). The one on the left now has them in hole #2. I wonder if they changed things as you can see they are not straight on the left one now. I am using the horns supplied with the KST servos. If some came with the Oxy kit I don't have those. The KST ones look larger than the ones on my flying Oxy 3. (BTW I finally have a short sat lead to replace that bundled mess you see. I need to put that on today.) All the linkages were measured and adjusted to the recommended length.

[jrman83]

You don't have to use the ones that came with the kit, but they can be slightly different than the kst ones. So best to just measure the distance and whatever hole it is doesn't really matter too much. It's really just a starting point.

Sent from my SM-N910T3 using Tapatalk

[BrokeDad]

Well I only trimmed the front one so far and it has hole #1 and #2 left. It'll work out in the end. I still haven't even started on the FBL.

I can always bug Rich now that we are budski's. (Just kidding Mr. Knapp).

[kona0915]

Originally Posted by BrokeDad

Hmmm... I moved them out one and it doesn't look the same as my other one. I'm using the horns that came with the KST servos. Here is a picture with them both (Left=building, Right-=flying). The one on the left now has them in hole #2. I wonder if they changed things as you can see they are not straight on the left one now. I am using the horns supplied with the KST servos. If some came with the Oxy kit I don't have those. The KST ones look larger than the ones on my flying Oxy 3. (BTW I finally have a short sat lead to replace that bundled mess you see. I need to put that on today.) All the linkages were measured and adjusted to the recommended length.

Show off having 2 oxy's

[kona0915]

Hey BrokeDad, I just compared the ones that ship with the servos and the ones that come in the kit. There is a difference in length and where the holes actually start. Left horn came with the oxy build the right is the kst horn Hope this helps

[BrokeDad]

Thanks much !! .. Yup .. that is why hole #1 works perfect instead of hole #2. Great picture. Your servo adapters are ready for the mail on Tuesday. (Postal holiday tomorrow).

This will be good info for anyone having to use the stock out of box KST215 horns. For the tail servo I will see if I can just limit the travel instead of having to drill a hole.

[Genesis X7]

Originally Posted by kona0915

Hey Kevin,

I didn't notice any issues like that, being my first build I'm not experienced enough to see it but had no issues with fit that I can tell.

I think the issue was my doing, I should of just tightened the two screws on the tail case spacer to the point where the screw head made contact with the side plates instead of snug fitting them. But it works fine and did not require any spacers on the shaft itself.

Here's a pic of what I have done so far just before heading to bed at 1:30 AM earlier this morning. Just couldn't leave the build alone ... .

Kevin

[jrman83]

Originally Posted by kona0915

Hey BrokeDad, I just compared the ones that ship with the servos and the ones that come in the kit. There is a difference in length and where the holes actually start. Left horn came with the oxy build the right is the kst horn Hope this helps

This is why I was saying what is important is the distance from post to the ball you place on the horn called out in the manual. Just as close as you can to the distance is what matters. And so you are balanced if you go with the KST servo horn, I would suggest you do that for all 3 cyclics and place ball at same hole. Otherwise, things will not be even for cyclic throw.

For the tail it won't matter too much. Just get as close as you can.

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[kona0915]

Glad that helped Ryan. I got this far on mine today. Pretty much down to the fbl and ESC mounting and programming plus waiting on some servo adapter BrokeDad is so generously sending me as I didn't realize till yesterday the microbrain2 had a different size servo connector when I bought it from Lynx on black Friday.

Those rear cyclic servo servo bottom screws are a PIA!!

[BrokeDad]

It's looking great !! I know the screws you are talking about and yes they are. Only the one for the Jesus bolt is more annoying. Here is a tip. I have one cheapo set of drivers I magnetized for getting things started. Then once they are in I finish tightening them with my good MIPs drivers.

[jrman83]

For the size of this thing, it is surprising how easily accessible all the bolts are. I have worked on a couple of 450-sized helis that were worse for difficulty in getting to screws.

I would leave the bottom off until you got all the wiring squared away. Have you decided on where you will mount the FBL? Most mount on the bottom surface of the boom mount. Wondering though going with a micro setup, if would be easier for you to mount on lower plate. Something to think about.

[Wargamer]

Originally Posted by kona0915

Those rear cyclic servo servo bottom screws are a PIA!!

A little trick...
The upper and middle bearing blocks can be treated as a unit held together by the two break-away pieces of CF that hold the canopy mounts. Just don't loctite the four OUTSIDE screws on each bearing block when you do the initial assembly. Then, when ready to mount the servos, you can pull out the two bearing blocks with the break-aways, add the servos, and then put the whole assembly back.

[BrokeDad]

I'll have to try that Wargamer. Here is what I found to do for the Jesus bolt without taking the skids etc off but if you or anyone has a better way please post it.

Put your driver in the hole and spin the head until it drops through. Remove the driver and then take some long narrow tip needle nose pliers and drop the bolt through. Put your driver on the bolt head and turn the heli over so the the skids are resting on your chest and the driver is being held in by the table. Then take the same needle nose pliers and from the top lay and hold the nut on. The spin the driver on the table to get it started threading.

[jrman83]

LOL, every time I think I have a better way of getting the bottom shaft bolt through because it was so easy the last time I did it that way, it doesn't last. Inevitably, the previous method doesn't continue as a good one. The only thing that has worked the best overall is holding the nut with a pair of tweezers. Somehow it works much better for me than pliers. Some days even that method has me wanting to throw something.

Sent from my SM-N910T3 using Tapatalk

[Wargamer]

My trick for the J-bolt is to just never have to replace it.

[jrman83]

Originally Posted by Wargamer

My trick for the J-bolt is to just never have to replace it.

Magic! Best method ever!!

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[toadiscoil]

Subscribing. Soon mine will fly again so might be able to help after taking my reference. Waiting for the holiday break to finish to get all my stuff and start rebuilding.