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Old 03-30-2017, 12:21 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Making a list and checking it twice.

So now that I've ordered the K110 from Tomtop and placed a few orders on BG for spares etc, I'm making a list of things to do once it arrives. I can't stop thinking about this little thing and am really excited about it's arrival. Sucks that it's likely not going to be quick, but we'll see.

It's going to be setup for optimal 3D straight away and am hoping it's going to serve me well to get some lunchtime 3D practice in and allow me to get some yard/school field flights in when going to the RC field isn't an option.

With bigger heli's I typically fly within my current comfort zone, (crash all the time in the sim though), and have yet to crash anything larger than a 180CFX, but I'll be pushing this little guy much harder and flying 3D fairly low, so it's likely going to happen frequently. I didn't want to wait until it happened so have bought the following replacements to have on hand.
  • main gears (3 sets)
  • main shaft bearings
  • main shafts
  • Main grips
  • feathering shafts
  • K110 & K120 tail rotors
  • Hisky 100 bulleted blades
  • V977 blades
  • Tail booms
  • Tail cases
  • SUT tail motor
  • Servo/Swash links
  • Skids

I also bough the 5 x Goo 520mah packs with parallel charge cable.

Things I'm likely going to do before maiden flight:
  • Place a dab of hot glue on main gear to aim to secure it from ejection up a crash
  • place silicon O rings on swash to remove play if present
  • Loctite the feathering shaft
  • possibly change foam tape under controller
  • set pitch end points to get maximum collective without tail blowout
  • set 2nd and 4th pitch value to get desired collective "feel" around midstick
  • set a V throttle curve (100, 95, 90, 95, 100)

Anything that you can recommend that I've missed? Does the 3D gyro calibration need to be done out of the box?

Is the stock gyro stabilization setting fine as is for the 3D mode?
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Old 03-30-2017, 02:25 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You might want to get the tail boom/motor combo. I know I don't want to deal with those tiny wires. Makes a quick fix when feeling lazy.
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Old 03-30-2017, 02:50 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I add some Goop (Shoe goo) to the canopy in the following places to prevent it from slipping. Not much is required, but it really helps with longevity.

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Old 03-30-2017, 04:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokeDad View Post
You might want to get the tail boom/motor combo. I know I don't want to deal with those tiny wires. Makes a quick fix when feeling lazy.
I was about to get the all-in-one tail combo, but figured the individual pieces would be better being that it would be unlikely that all 3 things (motor, motor case/fin and boom) were destroyed at once. I'll wrap them on the outside of boom, then shrink wrap it if it's too fiddly.

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Originally Posted by JWeber View Post
I add some Goop (Shoe goo) to the canopy in the following places to prevent it from slipping. Not much is required, but it really helps with longevity.
Do these areas then grip the frame to keep the cano secured better?
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Old 03-30-2017, 04:10 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryguy76 View Post
Do these areas then grip the frame to keep the cano secured better?
No, those areas are where the canopy tends to split after you crash it a couple of dozen times.

I don't use much Goop on those points, just a small schmere. (That's a technical term )
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Old 03-30-2017, 05:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I see yours is missing the front canopy grommets. I gave up on those early on myself. So to the OP don't worry about them staying in. The rear ones are good enough.
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Old 03-30-2017, 05:56 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWeber View Post
No, those areas are where the canopy tends to split after you crash it a couple of dozen times.



I don't use much Goop on those points, just a small schmere. (That's a technical term )

I can work with "schmere." I feel like it's a less-than-precise "dab," and not as much as a "dollop."




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