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Old 05-19-2010, 08:30 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hueman09 View Post
Correction, gyro gain plug would be 2nd slot from from right.....
You know, I read that and totally made me think I had mine incorrectly inserted? Scared me for a sec....but yeah, second from right, with yellow wire up top.
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Old 05-19-2010, 03:55 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I'll give it a try and see what happens.
Thanks alot
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Old 05-19-2010, 04:15 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I found some success with the tail wag by removing the gyro and putting a new thick piece of gyro mounting tape, then a thin piece of gyro tape, then the gyro as per the instructions in the sticky in this forum.

I think the thick piece of mounting take absorbs the low frequency vibrations while the thinner piece of mounting tape absorbs the higher frequency vibrations.

Anyways, it gave me some improvements so I thought I would share.

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Old 05-19-2010, 07:28 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by BrandonB View Post
Good idea! I'll try some synthetic grease on the main gear and pinion tomorrow to see if that smooths the gear.

I took off my gyro and remounted it using 3 of the foam sticky pads that were included in the box and that sort of helped, but it seems like it's over-damped now (I can turn the gyro up higher, but the tail doesn't hold as well). I'm gonna try 2 pads tomorrow to see if I can achieve critical damping on the gyro.
so is it possible to over dampen the gyro? I got mine used and there is like five double stick pads under it!
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Old 05-19-2010, 07:36 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I put 3 pads under mune and turned the gain up some and it is alright, not annoying, but not fixed. Controling the gyro on my Tx had no effect though.
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Old 05-19-2010, 08:03 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miamiheli View Post
I don't have an SR but do have a Blade 400 with the same gyro.

Are you all giving the gyro time to acclimate when you bring the heli from inside to out?

Seems to make a big difference on these gyros if the two atmospheres are different.

Just thought I'd throw that out there.
With my Sr I dont wait and my tail is still rock solid. It doesnt drift at all

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I think the tail motor is under powered
My stock motor was way underpowered but I replaced it with another one and it now has tons of power. I can be at a hover and nail full throttle/pitch and the tail doesnt budge any more
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Old 05-19-2010, 09:20 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Default BLADE SR TAIL WAG FIX!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by street954

so is it possible to over dampen the gyro? I got mine used and there is like five double stick pads under it!
I was wondering this same thing.. I have two 'stock' pads and then a regular piece of mounting tape..
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Old 05-19-2010, 10:35 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Any harmonic system can be either over, under, or critically damped with respect to a given frequency. I do know this to be fact. I'm not sure however that I'm correct to assume that my gyro is overdamped with respect to any frequency with the extra pads. It was just an observation that the tail wags less but also blows out easier. This makes me think that the gyro is lagging due to the elastic coupling between it and the heli.
The use of two different materials to dampen high and low frequencies is probably the best idea I've read. That and eliminating the vibration at the source by careful adjustment of the pinion/main gear mesh and head balancing.
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Old 07-20-2010, 03:06 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the posts guys. I've been trying to adjust the same thing. Right now, I think I still need to back off on the tail mix a little as the tail still drifts to the left (clockwise) but once I have that nailed, I'll start messing the with gyro on the 5th channel - please correct me if I'm wrong. for setting up the POT - tail mix, I'll be leaving the channel 5 knob centered..
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Old 07-20-2010, 06:09 PM   #30 (permalink)
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i guess i am lucky with mine, i get no tail wag at all unless i turn the gain up too high.
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Old 07-20-2010, 10:23 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b1tphr34k View Post
Thanks for all the posts guys. I've been trying to adjust the same thing. Right now, I think I still need to back off on the tail mix a little as the tail still drifts to the left (clockwise) but once I have that nailed, I'll start messing the with gyro on the 5th channel - please correct me if I'm wrong. for setting up the POT - tail mix, I'll be leaving the channel 5 knob centered..
Yes, centered on ch 5 knob, but I wouldn't lift off the ground with it unless you're super confident you have the tail pretty close to spot on. I would adjust it while light on the skids just before an actual hover, that way you can set down quick without incident. You said you needed to back off the mix as the nose was drifting left, but that would make it drift more. If you decrease, the tail motor works less making the nose go even more to the left. So with a left nose drift, you would have to adjust the esc gain more positive, but only a little. Good luck
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Old 07-21-2010, 06:21 AM   #32 (permalink)
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I have not had to plug my gyro in yet. Sometimes the tail wags a bit for the first minute or so then smooths out. I have adjusted to pot on the ESC a bit to adjust the mix. I did notice an improvement when switching to the DX6i even though the gyro is set to INH. Not sure how that is possible so maybe its just my mind playing tricks on me. Now that I have my SR set up well and all the other variables in the DX6i program about where I want them I may try to plug in later this week.
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Old 07-21-2010, 11:20 AM   #33 (permalink)
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When the gyro on your Tx is set to INH then it's not working the gain remotely. You said you hadn't plugged in the lead to the Rx yet so that's fine. But when you do plug the yellow lead into the Rx you're gonna wanna activate that channel to adjust the gain. I would do it right away cuz it gives you access to two separate gain settings at the flick of a switch. There's no down side to it.
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Old 07-21-2010, 03:04 PM   #34 (permalink)
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when you plug that yellow wire in. when the channel five knob is centered it is basically turning it off. i had one heck of a time flying like that. not fun at all. when i switched to my dx6i the gain was set at 50% same thing as having the channel 5 knob in the center.
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Old 07-21-2010, 03:13 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dannylightning View Post
when you plug that yellow wire in. when the channel five knob is centered it is basically turning it off. i had one heck of a time flying like that. not fun at all. when i switched to my dx6i the gain was set at 50% same thing as having the channel 5 knob in the center.
+1! Don't continue to fly with the gain at 50%!! That would be very counter-productive!! I only posted to confirm that was the setup method. Of course dial gain in after the esc pot is adjusted to account for as much of the drift as possible.
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Old 08-07-2010, 06:25 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Default Eliminate SR Tail wag

Adjusting the gyro does not entirely remove the tail wag from the Blade SR. Isolating the gyro completely eliminates it, but you must use the right materials.
Here's how I did it -
1. Remove the gyro from the platform, carefully cleaning all the goo and tape off of both the gyro and the platform.
2. Cut a small piece of thin foam servo mounting tape the size of the bottom of the gyro.
3. Stick the mounting tape onto the platform, leaving the top piece of plastic on the tape, until later.
4. Buy some Pro Servo Tape, #8044 by Parma PSE, made in the USA, at your LHS! This stuff is a gel type double backed, sticky as H--- gel tape, about 0.060" thick, that completely absorbs all vibration and my SR does not tail wag at all, just like on the Phoenix simulator. I had a friend fly it that had not ever even seen an SR before, and very experienced at heli flying. He did not mention anything negative about the SR, except that the controls were a little mushy around the center.... the way it is supposed to be, in Normal mode.
I had converted to the Ch 5 control of the gyro, also, putting the knob about 12:30 on the knob, and haven't touched it yet. Before, even just starting it up, it jerked immediately.
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Old 08-07-2010, 11:20 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Nice!! I've got that gel tape crap! I'm gonna give that a go when I put all the SR guts into the 250 clone I'm gonna get. Maybe the gyro won't suck THAT bad after all.
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Old 08-08-2010, 12:29 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Everyone shutup. This is a hijacking! Just sit there and don't say a word. I have a bomb in this thread and I will set it off. Your thread is being hijacked.

^ What clone are you going to get? I'm gonna get a CopterX 250se, but I'm not sure if the ESC will work. I'm pretty sure the motor will, because it has a higher Kv rating then the Align one.
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Old 08-08-2010, 08:59 AM   #39 (permalink)
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lazor higher KV doesn't mean more power. Lower KV motors have more torque so they are good for low head speed applications. High KV such as 10000 is used on the real tiny LOSI cars. I don't believe that KV is an effective way to say one motor is better than the other.
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Old 08-08-2010, 11:17 AM   #40 (permalink)
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The T-Rex has a higher head speed, so if what your saying is true, it should be better then the align one.
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