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600 Class Nitro Helicopters 600 Class Nitro Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 12-07-2007, 10:10 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Excellent job on the gyro setup vid John. I especially liked your method for (at least initially) finding the slider travel center. Use marks on the push rod!? -- Brrilliant! .

Good on ya for including Nigels' tip for setting up the accel / decel ramping values as well. This should really help some Freaks out.

One thing to add might be the method for setting up the correct servo direction. I know this is covered in other vids and on many threads, but might be a good addition just in case someone is only seeing your vid...

Oh one ?, why did you attach the hh/normal mode to your hold switch, won't that put you into normal mode when you go to do an auto? Might be a bit of a surprise if the heli starts to piro a little on the way down

-Chris
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Old 12-13-2007, 04:45 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Good points Chris ! Put normal mode on the throttle hold as I practice autos using idle up 2 with a 5% flat throttle curve so the ESC doesn't need to reset - use throttle hold for carrying out the heli to the flight line which some argue is best done in gyro normal rather than HH mode (personally I'm not sure it makes much difference!)
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Old 12-13-2007, 11:05 AM   #43 (permalink)
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gotcha, that makes sense then ... I also carry it around in normal mode with TH on, but I used the aux2 channel for the gyro gain switch. So, I just flick it to hh to "boot up" the rx, and then normal to carry out to the flightline. Then three quick clicks back and forth after it's fully spooled up, ending on hh, and I know it's zero'ed and good to go. Always more than one way to skin a puss, right?

-Fog
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Old 12-31-2007, 03:58 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Posted quick overview of Rotorworkz 600N CF frames and thoughts on E -> N conversion
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Old 03-04-2008, 04:15 AM   #45 (permalink)
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OS 50 bearing change video posted
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Old 03-04-2008, 10:49 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Hey John, I've seen piston sleeve's that stuck before and just a little application of heat with your heat gun usually is enough to expand the Aluminium enough to get it right out.

-Chris
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Old 03-04-2008, 03:33 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Good tip Chris - the piston liner was quite easy but I sweated over the big end - for those who can't be fussed to watch the video the message is that even a few weeks disuse without after-run oiling can cause enough rust to make disassembly a real PIA
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Old 03-04-2008, 03:55 PM   #48 (permalink)
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yea I was surprised to see that much rust in the motor. not good. Wonder if stainless steels are just not strong enough for the crank and piston pin or maybe just too expensive?
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Old 03-21-2008, 04:01 AM   #49 (permalink)
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I have replaced every motor I have used up to a OS 91 with stainless bearings. THis includes my planks! They work fine and RUST is gone forever!

Just do it trust me!

Bob
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Old 04-08-2008, 11:15 AM   #50 (permalink)
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nice videos Thanks!!!!!!
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Old 04-08-2008, 11:17 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Thanks!!!
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Old 04-14-2008, 01:26 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Clutch removal from the top.

I was able easily to get the clutch out from the top without touching the main shaft bearing blocs. I removed the 3 servos (much easier to replace), remove the self tapping screws (only the top) from radio tray and that is it. Did not touch the fan shroud.

I replaced the liner AND installed the governor sensor! Thank you for the trick
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Old 06-07-2008, 12:56 PM   #53 (permalink)
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First Mercuriell you rock thank you for the videos. You are one of two people my family would know by voice if they met you. lol Finless being the second.



Pointers on clutch relining:
  • You do not need to trim the stock Align clutch liner it's a perfect fit. You do need something to expand in there I used the cardboard center of a roll of black electrical tape trimmed to fit. The ends will meet perfectly if you expand the liner 100%.
  • I coated the clutch housing with 30 minute epoxy using a toothpick and did not put it on the liner itself. I carefully spread a thin layer on the housing making sure to get no seepage that would stick to my cardboard tool.
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Old 06-15-2008, 02:34 AM   #54 (permalink)
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Thanks for the observations - I had noticed too that on more recent liner changes that the liner was an EXACT fit - so much so that it butted up nicely against the clutch bell without ANY support - the originals needed 2-3mm trimming but it's good that this has evolved to make this unnecessary .

I've re-edited the OS50 bearing change video and managed to slim it down 10MB and redid some segments I wasn't entirely happy with.
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Old 06-16-2008, 03:22 PM   #55 (permalink)
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That makes perfect sense thanks Mercuriell.

Oh cool thanks for the word up on the video I will revisit it. Never can have too much knowledge in this hobby.
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Old 02-04-2009, 06:18 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Hi John,

Until now, I was a big admirer of electric heli's. And I already have 3 T-rex 600 electric. I use to make aerial movies, not 3D. Can you help me please to understand how to make conversion between T-rex 600 electric and T-rex 600 nitro. The reason is, after this conversion I'll try the conversion to T-rex 600 gasser. Way much longer flight times. So I already have one T-rex 600 electric ready for disassamble. I must find what parts I need to replace exactly. I belive it must be the frame for shure and other distancers and probably many other parts. In user manual, dimensions are not shown by Align. At least not all. Trying to keep at least as much parts I can from one of my T-rex 600 electric. Like the head (swashplate, flybar cage, etc.) and the boom (hub, blades, links, etc.) I try at Align team, but no response. I'll appreciate your help. Btw, all your vids are absolute incredible.
Thank you in advance!
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Old 09-21-2009, 09:09 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Default Alternative "tool" for clutch liner replacement Trex600

Ok...I had to get out the epoxy anyway, but look how nicely this fits! The 4oz bottle compresses applying enough force to keep the liner in place!

Mike
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Old 11-23-2009, 08:10 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Had a crash with ny brand new 600. and broke the left side main frame. Bought a new side frame , just wondering how to change it . Do I just unbolt thge left side and replace it or is there someting else I should have to do . Please advise on how I shold go about this . Thank you in Advance
Paul
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Old 11-23-2009, 11:40 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Just unbolt the broken side and replace it. Everything should stay square and true. If for some reason you want to make damn sure it is true loosen all the screws on the other side and tighten it in the pattern again. I would just replace and see if it vibrated.
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Old 01-07-2010, 04:47 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Mercuriell, Just wanted to say thanks for the great vids.
I have been able to change my engine bearings without previous experience thanks to you
Also you should use yet a bit more French in them , easier to understand for me
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