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Newbies: Tips and Information Section of HF, specifically for Passing along info to newcomers to the hobby. Setup, tweaking, orientation practice, etc.


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Old 06-07-2015, 09:08 AM   #61
ArchmageAU
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Originally Posted by codyw20 View Post
Would anyone here know way my elevator control will not hardly move? When I watch the monitor my elevator control barely moves the arrow at all. It does move it some but just barely. The arrow starts at about 30% and then if I move it all the way up to goes 33%. Moving the stick all the way down only moves the arrow barley. Maybe only like 2 %.

Andy ides? Do I need to take it in for service?
If doing this on a new model (after calibration), then service would be required.

By new model, I mean erase model, then create new heli model. Do not program in any DR, sub trim, travel adjust or mixes.

If new model test works, and issues with an existing model, erase and re-program existing model. DX6i is know to get occasional memory corruptions, so pre-flight monitor check is often advised.

Hope this helps.
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Last edited by ArchmageAU; 06-08-2015 at 12:50 AM.. Reason: Autocorrect is my worst enema
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Old 06-07-2015, 10:22 PM   #62
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Thank you Arch! It must need service. I have set up two different models from scratch resetting everything. I am pretty green, but I had zero trouble setting this up a few months ago with Pheonix SIM and my 120 SR, but hadn't used it for a while and this just started. I have went through every setting several times following all guides for different things on here. I am going to take it in. Just a bummer it happened right after I get my first real heli (180 CFX) and just can't wait to learn with it. Thanks again for the info.
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Old 12-04-2015, 12:41 PM   #63
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Can someone post a newbies guide to the DX6? I know it's exactly the same as the DX6i, but it's nothing like it at all for someone like me who's never used a controller before.
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Old 01-19-2016, 06:35 AM   #64
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Damn good guide. Had I read this fully I likely never would have crashed my heli into the ground, at least not the way I did.

So I have a question, the guide says don't touch travel unless instructed to. My heli which is already setup for a pro has travel setup at:

ELEV 112%
RUDD 108%

What are the impacts of resetting these to 100%? All my dual rates are at 100%. I haven't checked servos for binding but I assume they are ok as the guy seemed to know his stuff.

For now I'll just leave as is as the heli flies fine. However I wouldn't mind putting these back to 100 until I understand what they're doing etc.
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Old 01-19-2016, 02:16 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by Betamax_Disco View Post
Damn good guide. Had I read this fully I likely never would have crashed my heli into the ground, at least not the way I did.

So I have a question, the guide says don't touch travel unless instructed to. My heli which is already setup for a pro has travel setup at:

ELEV 112%
RUDD 108%

What are the impacts of resetting these to 100%? All my dual rates are at 100%. I haven't checked servos for binding but I assume they are ok as the guy seemed to know his stuff.

For now I'll just leave as is as the heli flies fine. However I wouldn't mind putting these back to 100 until I understand what they're doing etc.
TA is used to adjust the range of the servo signal transmitted to the model. With TA's over 100, then the servo limits are greater than what is usually anticipated.

A FBL unit does not have a servo. It is the input to a gyro. In these cases, TA is the rate of change to position. A higher TA means the heli will turn and roll faster (but you must adjust both sides - up and down / left and right). If 100 TA is 540 degrees per second (at full stick deflection) for the tail, then 108 TA is 583 degrees per second.

If model is set up and working (no binding or jamming) at higher TA, do not change. If you were to reset to 100 TA, then the model will simply flip/roll/spin a little slower.
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Old 01-22-2016, 07:57 PM   #66
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Thanks AU, that all makes sense.



Another question. On the sim you can assign a deadzone to take out initial input. On the real heli though you can't really do this (?)and it inevitably starts hovering off in one direction or another. I find the sticks have a small degree of play (digital, not physical) at centre, it would be good to take this out.



After that, what's the best way to set trim? Just more practice? I find the heli can drift quite far when left at centre and it's hard to figure trim out before I have to correct the hover.
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Old 01-31-2016, 05:33 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by Betamax_Disco View Post
Thanks AU, that all makes sense.

Another question. On the sim you can assign a deadzone to take out initial input. On the real heli though you can't really do this (?)and it inevitably starts hovering off in one direction or another. I find the sticks have a small degree of play (digital, not physical) at centre, it would be good to take this out.

After that, what's the best way to set trim? Just more practice? I find the heli can drift quite far when left at centre and it's hard to figure trim out before I have to correct the hover.
In a sim, the interpretation of the signal is often a little messy, so dead zone stops the signal noise messing the center inputs too much.

In a TX for a real heli, the best way to simulate "dead zone" is expo. At 30% or more expo, you usually do not notice movement till the sick is near 5% deflection from middle.

Generally I do not use dead zone in the sim. I do fly with 20% expo.

Trim or sub-trim. Trim is applied to the sticks before DR/expo and the like. Sub-trim is applied to the signal and only applied after DR/expo and the like.

On a heli you should never need to apply trim (unless flying F3C and compensating for battery positions). Sub-trim irons out signal deflections from center (and is used to fine tune FBL units like BD or vBar so that the received signal matches anticipated signal).

Generally you should never TX trim a FBL heli (you may sub-trim it though). In most cases you fly with it how it is unless it is a LONG way out.
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Old 02-01-2016, 03:47 PM   #68
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Thanks AU, that's great. So trim is moving the sticks, sub trim is like adjusting the servo?



I kind of hate expo, I think I run 10%. Fortunately I don't get any erroneous input on the real thing. I may need to revisit that once I up my dual rates but that seems a long way away.



Thanks for clearing that up.
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Old 02-01-2016, 04:00 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by Betamax_Disco View Post
Thanks AU, that's great. So trim is moving the sticks, sub trim is like adjusting the servo?
..
Yes. Sub-trim is essentially servo center adjustment. Caution to this is that FBL unit control is not done by servos, so I think of it a signal center adjustment.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Betamax_Disco View Post
I kind of hate expo, I think I run 10%. Fortunately I don't get any erroneous input on the real thing. I may need to revisit that once I up my dual rates but that seems a long way away.

Thanks for clearing that up.
At low DR's (<40) lots of expo can make things REALLY hard. Once you get to high DR's (90+), expo will make a lot of sense. You should not need much. 10% to 30% suits most people.

Generally pinch flyers use less expo, but there are some thumb 3D'ers that use 0 or even negative.

Expo allows you to smooth out center stick and have nice control without sacrificing the limits.
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Old 02-01-2016, 04:12 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by Betamax_Disco View Post
Thanks AU, that's great. So trim is moving the sticks, sub trim is like adjusting the servo.
This might help some.

Aurora 9 Trim and Sub-Trim (6 min 42 sec)
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Old 06-29-2016, 06:15 AM   #71
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Hi Arch,
Any idea how to get a 5 point RUD->RUD mix on the DX6? Trying to bypass a rudder dead band issue.
Thanks!
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Old 07-01-2016, 12:21 AM   #72
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Hi Arch,
Any idea how to get a 5 point RUD->RUD mix on the DX6? Trying to bypass a rudder dead band issue.
Thanks!
DX6 mixing is essentially the same as DX8 mixing.

This means you have input/output, low rate, high rate and offset. A mix cannot be an input for another mix, so you cannot chain mixes. So no real way to make a 5 point mix (compare vs a custom curve).

Best solution for overcomming deadband is probably expo.

What are the symptoms of your rudder deadband issue? Can you program your way out in the gyro setup?

I use expo on my rudder (round 20%) so it's not as sensitive around middle (and I can steer accurately), but DR 100% so I can still piro quickly when required (stall/turns, prio-flips, x point tic-tocs, etc..)
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Old 07-01-2016, 01:24 AM   #73
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Th deadband symptoms is with small rudder inputs in the tx, there is no response at all from the heli. I guess i can also bypass that with negative expo..
I saw some people use mixes, and basically give a small offset to each direction, so behavior is fluent.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ArchmageAU View Post
DX6 mixing is essentially the same as DX8 mixing.

This means you have input/output, low rate, high rate and offset. A mix cannot be an input for another mix, so you cannot chain mixes. So no real way to make a 5 point mix (compare vs a custom curve).

Best solution for overcomming deadband is probably expo.

What are the symptoms of your rudder deadband issue? Can you program your way out in the gyro setup?

I use expo on my rudder (round 20%) so it's not as sensitive around middle (and I can steer accurately), but DR 100% so I can still piro quickly when required (stall/turns, prio-flips, x point tic-tocs, etc..)
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Old 07-01-2016, 09:49 AM   #74
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The attached picture is what i'm trying to configure (saw it in another thread). it was configured on a DX9.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ArchmageAU View Post
DX6 mixing is essentially the same as DX8 mixing.

This means you have input/output, low rate, high rate and offset. A mix cannot be an input for another mix, so you cannot chain mixes. So no real way to make a 5 point mix (compare vs a custom curve).

Best solution for overcomming deadband is probably expo.

What are the symptoms of your rudder deadband issue? Can you program your way out in the gyro setup?

I use expo on my rudder (round 20%) so it's not as sensitive around middle (and I can steer accurately), but DR 100% so I can still piro quickly when required (stall/turns, prio-flips, x point tic-tocs, etc..)
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Old 07-01-2016, 08:11 PM   #75
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The attached picture is what i'm trying to configure (saw it in another thread). it was configured on a DX9.
From a search online, looks like the Spektrum Airware software has added P-Mixes (point mixes). These deviate from the normal high/low rate mixes that had been the only option for quite a while.

As I do not have a DX9 (DX6, DX8 or any other Gen2 Spektrum TX), I cannot give step-by-step instructions on how to set it up. (OpenTX, different story).

From what I could find (and information is VERY thin on the ground), the P-mix should be a mix option. You can set up to 7 points and the mixes work between each of the points. Each mix point follows the normal Spektrum mix .formula (Rate% and offset to modify the control signal to later add to source signal).

Use the monitor screen to verify mixes are working as expected.

Sorry I cannot help more. Hopefully this is enough information to go on to experiment with.
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Old 07-01-2016, 10:14 PM   #76
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Thank you very much Arch.
Yesterday i downloaded the file from the guy that did this, compared it to my own file and merged it.
It seems to be configured like it! but i now have to see if it really helps..

Thanks again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ArchmageAU View Post
From a search online, looks like the Spektrum Airware software has added P-Mixes (point mixes). These deviate from the normal high/low rate mixes that had been the only option for quite a while.

As I do not have a DX9 (DX6, DX8 or any other Gen2 Spektrum TX), I cannot give step-by-step instructions on how to set it up. (OpenTX, different story).

From what I could find (and information is VERY thin on the ground), the P-mix should be a mix option. You can set up to 7 points and the mixes work between each of the points. Each mix point follows the normal Spektrum mix .formula (Rate% and offset to modify the control signal to later add to source signal).

Use the monitor screen to verify mixes are working as expected.

Sorry I cannot help more. Hopefully this is enough information to go on to experiment with.
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Old 07-03-2016, 07:13 AM   #77
woodbang76
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Hi great guide most use full i have an issue with my dx6i i wonder if you can help me out
Right stick and rudder only works when tx in the f mode 1 and throttle will not work,flick switch back to 0 gear left stick throttle works right stick will not work
any ideas anyone iam a bit stuck as to fix problem
lee
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Old 07-03-2016, 08:22 PM   #78
ArchmageAU
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Hi great guide most use full i have an issue with my dx6i i wonder if you can help me out
Right stick and rudder only works when tx in the f mode 1 and throttle will not work,flick switch back to 0 gear left stick throttle works right stick will not work
any ideas anyone iam a bit stuck as to fix problem
lee
DX6i has issues where a model can become corrupt. Really weird things happen (like what you describe).

If you try on a completely new model (erase it before use), does the monitor page show channel movement in line with the sticks? (FM0 and FM1). If so, delete the mis-behaving model and re-program it. This is the simplest solution.

If the completely new model still misbehaves, then these is a physical issue and the DX6i may need service to correct the issue.
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Old 07-04-2016, 01:54 PM   #79
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Hi i asked i fellow member of the DMHC (dorset model heli club) and he gave the same advice as yourself so deleted model memory did new model and re bined the model and all working great "jobs a good un"
thanks for your help another happy camper
lee
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Old 11-15-2016, 03:17 AM   #80
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Thank you so much.

Not knowing that throttle hold 10% setting makes me crash my new Trex 150X on my second pack when flying inverted. Setting it to 0% makes the throttle stay at where it was on this heli with Spectrum satellite, so I crashed with near full throttle without being able to cut power to the 2 motors.

Luckily only main gear was stripped. Everything else stays fine. So sad that it's not written anywhere...
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