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600 Class Nitro Helicopters 600 Class Nitro Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 08-02-2016, 06:09 AM   #21
Ignatjev
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Thanks.. Had flameout because fuel tube came off in flight, had to auto heli down.. A hard landing but nothing broke, so some time ago Align had quality landing gear.. ☺

Now I`m running Align governor, TH curves: Normal-0,25,50,75,100 Idle up 1-95,85,65,85,95 and IU 2-80,80,80,80,80 (like on my electric heli). Is it ok..?

Here is my pitch pumps test short video -
TRex 600 Nitro Pro (2 min 0 sec)
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Old 08-05-2016, 12:45 PM   #22
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Today glow plug blew out, but the engine was still running. Changed glow plug but engine was hard to start and it was not smooth.. May be I went too lean, so disassembled the engine. What parts do I need to change - ring, piston..? And there is rust internally, so I think a rear bearing needs to be replaced?
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Old 08-05-2016, 12:50 PM   #23
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Looks like a piece of metal went loose inside the engine probably a piece of rear bearing or glow plug. If the bearings aren't smooth then for sure the larger bearing. You will need a new piston and ring. Check the inside of the sleeve, if it's still smooth then your good to go.

The inside of the head is pretty beat up as well. If you can find a cheap used one is replace it but it won't hurt to try and use it again.
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Old 08-09-2016, 03:16 AM   #24
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Ordered piston and ring from RCJapan.
Is this normal that the engine is still running with glow plug burnt-out..?
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Old 08-10-2016, 05:22 AM   #25
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It can still run once started. It's the combustion cycle that keeps the plug "lit" due to the reaction with the platinum wire, so once you fire it up it'll keep running as long as there's enough of the wire remaining in the plug to glow regardless of electrical conductivity.


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Old 08-13-2016, 04:04 AM   #26
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How to remove this bearing from the crankshaft..?
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Old 08-13-2016, 04:52 AM   #27
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Oven. 275c for 15-20 mins, then it should tap off

Please have a look on Utube. There are lots of good rebuild, setup and tuning vids that will give you the right way to do these things.

Trail & error will only make it costly, frustrating and ultimately spoil the nitro experience for you,
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Old 08-13-2016, 08:16 AM   #28
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You can try grabbing the bearing with vice grips then tapping the Crank shaft on a block of wood. Heating it may help as well
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Old 08-13-2016, 02:45 PM   #29
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By turning the bearing by hand it seems normal, what feel must be if needed to change for new one?
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Old 08-13-2016, 05:52 PM   #30
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The bearing will feel hard to turn or feel notchy/ ratchet or it will make a bad noise.
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Old 08-13-2016, 06:43 PM   #31
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Since you're this fall you might as well change it. It's cheap insurance. Put it in the oven at 400 for fifteen minutes and you should be able to tap it off.
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Old 08-17-2016, 04:34 AM   #32
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Thanks! Another thing - will T-REX 700 Nitro Pro clutch liner be compatible with 600 clutch?
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Old 08-17-2016, 06:41 AM   #33
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Yes, you just have to cut a bit off.

Be sure it is the blue liner.
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Old 09-17-2016, 02:38 PM   #34
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Is the blue liner still available? I saw only the black ones in stock in different shops. The new black one is 1.2mm thick eventhougt in the description is 1mm...
Just count with it...

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Old 09-19-2016, 03:10 AM   #35
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I dont know if this is the blue or black but it is not 1.2mm thick:
https://www.align-trex.co.uk/clutch-liner-hn6006a.html
in the description it says: Clutch liner x 2(0.8x9x136mm)

Now I am rebuilding engine with clutch assembly, is there any good video on where and what threadlock to use?
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Old 09-19-2016, 03:42 AM   #36
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There are a few vids on YT that gives a visual guide on how to do it, what to use and what to look for.
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Old 09-19-2016, 06:19 AM   #37
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Thanks, looked but have not found any good YT video with detailed instructions exactly where and what loctite to use.

Plus, I have lost that tiny part which goes into crankshaft when you mount the fan on it. It is like a small half-moon shaped piece of metal..
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Old 09-19-2016, 10:21 AM   #38
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Red loctite for pinion to bell. Everything else, blue.

Use bearing retainer (green loctite) for the clutch stack, but make sure the surfaces are clean and use it sparingly.
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Old 09-19-2016, 01:40 PM   #39
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I have HK threadlock, TL-609 (high strength) and TL-242 (medium strength) hope these correspond to Red Loctite and blue accordingly.
I also have Align R48 and T43.
My engine is running strong with the new piston, ring and rear bearing. Decided not to change the front bearing as it seemed good to me. Have to order a woodruff key from RCJapan..
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Old 09-27-2016, 08:48 AM   #40
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I want to change my standard clunk to MOAS, how to remove the old clunk without damaging tank nipple..?
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