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130X Blade 130X Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 08-16-2012, 02:05 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Just got mine, going through the list (very helpful!). However:

What is the tail shaft shelve?

"Check TT at C gear make sure the TT is not touching the tail shaft shelve"

The only thing I could see that the TT could touch if it stuck out too far would be the tail shaft itself, and it would have to stick out quite a bit to do that. Is that what this refers to?
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Old 08-16-2012, 02:18 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmeyer View Post
Just got mine, going through the list (very helpful!). However:

What is the tail shaft shelve?

"Check TT at C gear make sure the TT is not touching the tail shaft shelve"

The only thing I could see that the TT could touch if it stuck out too far would be the tail shaft itself, and it would have to stick out quite a bit to do that. Is that what this refers to?
There is actually a sleeve that slides over the tail rotor shaft, what you are seeing is the sleeve not actually the tail rotor shaft.

If you were to install the TT backwards it can reach the sleeve.
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Old 08-16-2012, 03:08 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Liduno View Post
There is actually a sleeve that slides over the tail rotor shaft, what you are seeing is the sleeve not actually the tail rotor shaft.

If you were to install the TT backwards it can reach the sleeve.
Ah, "sleeve"! That makes more sense. Isn't autocorrect great?

Thanks!
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Old 08-16-2012, 03:22 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by pmeyer View Post
Ah, "sleeve"! That makes more sense. Isn't autocorrect great?

Thanks!
The funny thing is I didnt even notice the mispelled word..lol My brain auto corrected the word for me
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Old 08-18-2012, 09:51 AM   #45 (permalink)
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PS this is not a beginner heli you can't jump from a coaxial or jump on this heli for a beginner heli. start with maybe the msrx so you can at least get the feel of fbl and movement and orientations then move your way up.
I totally get the idea of small steps vs a giant leap, but can't you just tame down a 130X on your transmitter. I hate the idea of continuously buying a slightly more advanced heli every few months, and never or RARELY touch the old ones again.

I currently have an mCX2 (which I still fly once in a blue moon), and an mQX (recommended by various sources) which I am still learning basics on. Despite what some have said, I really think the mQX doesn't handle breezes all that well, especially when you are trying to learn basic skills, where you need the heli to remain fairly steady instead of yo-yo'ing all over the place. I can hold it steady in my house easily enough, but don't have the room to really work it.

I'm looking for a decent, steady outdoor heli for breezes, gusty, upto 6-8 mph. Also one that would keep me busy with the learning curve for a while. Would the 130X fit the bill?
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Old 08-18-2012, 10:33 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by BrettOssman View Post
I totally get the idea of small steps vs a giant leap, but can't you just tame down a 130X on your transmitter. I hate the idea of continuously buying a slightly more advanced heli every few months, and never or RARELY touch the old ones again.
I would suggest posting this as it's own thread. I want to answer, but my answer won't be a one liner, and doesn't really fit in the "what to check before first flight" thread.
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Old 08-18-2012, 10:43 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Done
Thanks
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:09 AM   #48 (permalink)
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After my experience, don't check the feathering spindle. Ended up breaking the screw and then didn't get to fly it until 6 days later.
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Old 09-13-2012, 11:56 AM   #49 (permalink)
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After my experience if it don't fly right out of the box then send it back. Fixing it will just cause you grief and $. In the end once you have it dialed it will still crash and burn because of a bad part and you will wonder. Why did't I just send it back off the hop.
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Old 09-13-2012, 05:32 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by litehawkdown View Post
After my experience if it don't fly right out of the box then send it back. Fixing it will just cause you grief and $. In the end once you have it dialed it will still crash and burn because of a bad part and you will wonder. Why did't I just send it back off the hop.
Great point.
Shouldn't have to tweak something out of the box, just to get it to work correctly. Only REQUIRED tweaking should be upgrades and repairs, period.
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Old 09-13-2012, 07:16 PM   #51 (permalink)
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There is always something you have to tweak out of the box because it say rtf or bnf means the stuff is there to fly it. With most of your kit builds you my have to tweak a lil. It comes with the hobby. You can't have everything good it is man made and everything man made isn't perfect.

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Old 09-14-2012, 07:30 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Some really great tips here. Thought I'd mention something else I discovered on mine. I had the tail apart to change gears and bearings and I noticed that where to tail rotor shaft goes into the hub, it was installed cocked from the factory. It appears the hole that was drilled in the hub was drilled at an angle. I looked at four of my friends 130's and they were the same. I bought a new shaft and hub assmebly and it was correct. After this fix I have NO tail wobbles or vibs.
Now if I could figure out why the servos are failing
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Old 09-14-2012, 07:34 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tntburnett View Post
There is always something you have to tweak out of the box because it say rtf or bnf means the stuff is there to fly it. With most of your kit builds you my have to tweak a lil. It comes with the hobby. You can't have everything good it is man made and everything man made isn't perfect.

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I will agree with that. But I had to chime in and say I just bought a new 450X and it flew perfect out of the box. I did the normal checking over of things, set my radio up exactly to what the manual says and I could not believe how well it flew. Have not made any changes to it
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Old 09-19-2012, 01:59 PM   #54 (permalink)
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I will agree with that. But I had to chime in and say I just bought a new 450X and it flew perfect out of the box. I did the normal checking over of things, set my radio up exactly to what the manual says and I could not believe how well it flew. Have not made any changes to it
+1 that should be all that is needed. QC on this bird was horrible. I built a 250se with no issues. The bird has been solid since day 1.

My 130x came with a bad 3in1. Servo wires falling off.......... These are things that are unacceptable IMHO. Then there is the out of square tail shafts.... HH support told me kindly mind you to take a hike. Took my LHS to get results for me. I expect to have to balance my blades and such. But bad parts out of the package is HH's fault and not for me to fix and pay for.

IF IT DON'T FLY RIGHT SEND IT BACK!

Messing with it will only void you warranty. When I bought my Blade heli's I figured the inflated pricing is recouped in a warranty issue if it pops up. After many HH purchases I finally tried to use that service and got nowhere on my own with it.

Apparently warranty only covers out of the box performance so nip it in the bud.
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Old 11-02-2012, 10:25 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Thanks for this thread. My 130X must've been a Monday kit cause every problem mention in the original post my 130X had it. It was really no big deal and I enjoyed taking care of things and learning a little more about its build. So far I've had about 5 flights, starting to get it dialed and pushing it more and more. I drilled it into the ground on the 5 flight tail first, full power. Only messed up the A gear a little bit, but didn't strip it amazing. I am definitely going to be replacing with the metal A gear upgrade. Everything else did not break, I thought for sure I would've at least broken something!

I loved my ol' Rex 250 of many years ago, but its just too fragile in wrecks and repair cost can add up quickly. With these size of helicopters, just simply due to their small nature they are prone to crash a lot more, therefore crash survivability means a lot to me. I'm on a budget during a change in careers and can't be spending a ton on the hobby right now. My flying of large helis was actually suffering because I was too self-concious about putting it in and having a big repair bill. So far the 130 is fitting the bill and I'm loving every flight more and more as I get my radio set to my style and get to know the little heli better. I made a paper canopy of the TDR for it and it looks trick, so much more visible than stock and at less than $0.01 for canopy, you can't get any cheaper replacement for a stock piece.
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:31 PM   #56 (permalink)
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All that TNT mentioned is true. However, my first flight wasn't good at all. I've checked all of the mentioned above by TNT.
My first flight ended up in a catastrophe. I've spooled up slowly, just to check if my heli is having the typical tail vibe. Yes, it does have the vibe!

Spooling up further, at a certain speed, the heli suddenly turned 90 degrees CCW (counter clockwise).
I'll first check the tail pitch slider for the proper 90 degree angle (the tail servo being in the proper position). If everything checks out, I'll play with the Gyro gain....

I continued spooling up further, ignoring the spin.

Shortly before lift off, the heli excessively tilted to the left and back, scratching the main blades' edges. I contacted HH, they were asking me to send my heli in for evaluation. I was getting ready to ship it, when I noticed something. I had to put the blades in 0 (zero) degree pitch, in order to fit into the box. Therefore, I noticed, on one blade, the 0 degree mark on the rotor head and the blade grips didn't match. Which could explain the tilt to the left and back.

In other words, check for a leveled swash plate!!!!!!!!!!!

In order to do so, use the following trick, I've learned. On a Spektrum DX6i, change the pitch curve at position 2, 3 and 4 to be at 50%. This will help you to have a mid stick on the throttle (on a Mode 2, left stick up), without having to be in the absolute middle. DON'T FORGET TO PUT IT BACK TO THE ORIGINAL SETTINGS, ONCE YOU'RE DONE!

(Assuming, you've bound your TX already!)

Turn on your TX, if you haven't done so. Plug in your LiPo.....

Now, turn on throttle hold (again DX6i; right bottom [long] switch, in the upward position). Push the throttle to "mid" level (thanks to the pitch curve, it doesn't have to be dead on!). Look from the top of your heli on to the rotor head and the blade grips. There are marks on the blade grips and the rotor head, if they are matching on both sides, you're lucky (you're good to go). Otherwise, you'll have to level the swash plate. That's a different story...

I bought the e-book (setting up a swash plate), from www.rchelicopterfun.com, (which also mentioned the pitch curve settings,) helping me to setup my 130x's swash plate properly. Therefore, cudos to John Salt!!!
BTW, his website helped me a lot making my decisions in general (before I found HF!). Due to his experience, he's having a lot of good information for beginners like me.

UPDATE (12/29/'12): I've bought both performance packages by Micro Heli, while taking the Heli apart, I noticed the blue wire on the left servo (looking from the tail), wasn't soldered on the board. That's the reason for the roll I experienced on take off. FYI, the tail's vibration is gone. Now, that everything is in working order, I'm waiting for the proper weather for my second attempt, flying the Heli.


Last edited by Neunerball; 12-29-2012 at 09:42 PM..
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Old 01-11-2013, 10:18 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Default Things to check when buying the 130x new before 1st flight and go to forums

Think I'm going to do a full teardown and rebuild when I get my 130X in a paycheck or two (damn better budgeting resolution). Before that I'll do everything possible to test electronics and if any issues back in the box it goes to Horizon.
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Old 03-21-2013, 12:13 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Thanks for posting this excellent preflight guide. I just bought one at the LHS, and it turns out a main blade grip is stripped. I added a pair of 1mm nylok nuts 'cause after driving 100 miles... I just want to fly. Everything else looks ok, but I'm going to shoot an e-mail to HH.
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Old 03-21-2013, 05:00 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Default Love my 130x!!!

So far I think this thread has had some great ideas on how to make the best out of the poor QC Horizon has had with this bird. Though I don't trust anything from the factory really. If you don't inspect your stuff you get you may not find the issue till you break it. So here is my idea of what you need to do to the 130x to make it a great bird, besides some of the other stuff that was already mentioned:

1.Take her apart before every flying it and go through everything.
2. Replace the the A gear with a metal gear as the plastic one will just result in a crash before too long.

!!!!!!***Before you put the gear in, chuck it up in a drill and spin it on some sand paper as I guarantee it rubs on the front servo****!!!!!! I did this with my plastic one as well just in case I need it as a back up someday to finish flying that day. Every 130x I have seen has this problem and just being able to slip a piece of paper between the FET and the gear is not good enough, you need to visually be able to see a gap.

3. Replace both of the plastic tail gears with the metal ones as they will also cause a crash eventually if not replaced. A stripped C gear can still look like it is working and get your heli in the air before it fails and spins out of control so caution there.
4. take some twist ties or zip strips and tie your wires to your frame so they are not up against your hot engine. Also make sure they are not rubbing against your main shaft.
5. Put a dab of CA on your screws that move(ones on the main shaft so they will stay in place.


I am sure I am missing a couple of things here, but do these and what was originally posted and your 130x should fly great! They are not crap, they just require a little TLC to make them quality. I do this type of stuff with every heli I get, just in case someone missed something.

Happy flying!
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Old 03-22-2013, 02:06 AM   #60 (permalink)
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...
Replace both of the plastic tail gears with the metal ones as they will also cause a crash eventually if not replaced.
...
I beg to differ.

A plastic C *OR* D gear should help reduce damage in a crash by serving as a weak point. So ideally keep one of them plastic.

Check the plastic tail gears before each flight by holding the main blades at putting slight pressure turning the tail. If the whole assembly locks in place, good to fly. If the tail shaft moves and the gear doesn't replace D. If the gears move and the main blade/B gear doesn't replace C.

It's $5 for 2 sets of plastic C & D gears and the check takes less than 5s.

Think of the C & D gears as serving the same function as a fuse in an electrical circuit. Under excess stress, the centre of the gear "cores" (turns from a D into an O).

I CA my C gear to the TT to help it last longer.
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