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Old 03-22-2013, 03:36 AM   #61 (permalink)
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I'm still of the opinion that metal C and D gears are a "penny in the fuse box".....
One of the FEW plastic parts I've kept on my 130X!!!
IMHO.....very cheap "insurance" against greater damage elsewhere......
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:05 AM   #62 (permalink)
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Default Re: Things to check when buying the 130x new before 1st flight and go to forums

what I have done was use a Metal Gear for the C Gear and use a plastic d gear.

that will help out both ways to reduce ware on the C gear inner hole and crashes just to take out the D while not taking other parts out.

With the c and d gear being metal that will take out the b gear but with the c gear being metal and the d gear being plastic it will just take it out. it's easier to change the d gear then the B gear.

My C gear is Metal and d gear is plastic and there is no wear on the plastic gear for close too 900 flights and the plastic gear is still in good shape.

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Old 03-22-2013, 11:01 AM   #63 (permalink)
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I would agree that keeping one of the gears D or C plastic would not be a bad idea, as long as you CA it in place as well. Be cautious when you do the test to see if the D hole has turned into an O hole as sometimes it will still spin even with a little bit of resistance. I know this from experience. I tested mine, held the tail spun the main and there was some good resistance meaning that everything checked out, so I thought I was good to go. I even had CA'd my C gear to the TT for extra insurance. Well I got my 130x into the air, hover to check everything was good, flew great. So what then? 3D the hell out of her of course, well this must have been the final straw on my plastic gear that was CA'd in place as well. pretty soon she was spinning like a top and way out of control. TH on, put her in the snow like a lawn dart, recovered her and went into the inspection phase. Turns out my maneuvers stressed the plastic gears too much and f'd my flying for the day.

Did having the plastic gears in there save me any money? Not really that sure as due to them failing I had to replace the tail gears, a main blade grip, a set of skids, trashed my canopy, snapped my tail fin, and destroyed my swash plate. Two factors didn't help very much, it was pretty cold which helps plastic snap way easier, and the fail happened probably over 100' in the sky so it fell pretty far. I go way up when I am trying new things for more recovery time. From this experience alone I have decided that a full metal gear setup was the best for myself, as I would rather f it up from my own faults then a mechanical failure. Just my $.02 though.

I'm pretty good at the hitting TH and if I was going to hit something it would be closer to the ground and I would get hit the TH before it touched anything. Using this method with my full metal setup as resulted in very few damaged parts compared to the crash above.

Maybe I would have had a different result if i had the one metal gear C and ran the plastic D gear CA'd in place? Anyone have a slip issue with that this setup like mine yet? I am still contemplating running this setup to have a week point in there, but fear another failure like I had before.
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Old 03-22-2013, 11:03 AM   #64 (permalink)
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One other thought, has anyone ran metal A, B, and C gears with a plastic D gear CA'd in place and had the D gear actually fail instead of damaging the TT or any of the other metal gears? Meaning is there proof out there from someones experience of the plastic D gear actually working as the weak point?
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Old 03-22-2013, 01:33 PM   #65 (permalink)
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Default Re: Things to check when buying the 130x new before 1st flight and go to forums

Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazySapper View Post
One other thought, has anyone ran metal A, B, and C gears with a plastic D gear CA'd in place and had the D gear actually fail instead of damaging the TT or any of the other metal gears? Meaning is there proof out there from someones experience of the plastic D gear actually working as the weak point?
Lol u must haven't read what I wrote above your quote.
I have metal a,b,and c gear and a plastic d gear.

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Old 03-23-2013, 10:05 PM   #66 (permalink)
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I did read that, what i was saying is have you had a failure yet? Do we know for sure the D gear will strip first? Maybe the torque tube will go before the D gear as it is the last gear in the order.

My opinion is run the full metal gear setup, be good at hitting TH. No matter what at some point you are going to crash. I just prefer to have it be my error instead of mechanical error. Some crashes are expensive, some don't cost a dime. From personal experience, i know a plastic great will fail. Sometimes when you think it is still good, and i do have a very good eye for detail. My gear setup felt rock solid during preflight testing. I've also been crashing with the full metal setup. Doesn't seem to be anymore expensive to fix vs. running the plastic great setup.

Plus
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Old 03-24-2013, 06:00 AM   #67 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazySapper View Post
I did read that, what i was saying is have you had a failure yet? ...
I get your point. With a lack of physical evidence, we can only work of faith and judgement. Therefore, no point is right or wrong.

For A, B, C and D gears, all metal may be as good (or better than) metal with one plastic (principally D, maybe C). A number of us SUSPECT not, but we do not KNOW.

I don't have budget, spare time or resources (or even metal C and D gears) to test. (Setup each, crash tail first a number of times with and without pre-emptive TH and assess damage).

CF TT's have also been seen by others as a "fuse", but that would be another discussion.
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Old 03-24-2013, 12:37 PM   #68 (permalink)
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CF TTs? I guess i haven't seen any of those myself yet. I haven't had a TT fail yet, but i wonder which of those are stronger. Totally agree with you as in whatever suits you best. For some reason my bird seems to almost always crash nose first. I like a solid setup and just deal with crashes and damages as they come.
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Old 03-24-2013, 02:05 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazySapper View Post
CF TTs? I guess i haven't seen any of those myself yet. I haven't had a TT fail yet, but i wonder which of those are stronger....
CF TT's are by Lynx (I believe). They are lighter than the stock steel one. Steel is stronger against twisting damage though.

Quote:
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... For some reason my bird seems to almost always crash nose first. ...
Tail first crashes tend to come from backward circuits, rainbows, tic-tocs or tail down funnels.
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Old 05-06-2013, 11:09 PM   #70 (permalink)
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The tail shaft doesn't have a collar on it like the main shaft does; it is kept from in place by pushing it in to the D gear to the end of the shaft's flat spot. When the D gear strips out, however, the tail shaft is free to slip further in to the tail casing (by further in I mean the tail grips are closer to the casing). This slippage broke the pitch slider, control arm, and tail casing. I would rather have a plastic C gear strip than a D gear, because even though it is easier to replace D than C, I would certainly rather replace C than my whole tail.

Protect your tail with a metal D gear and let C be your fuse.
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Old 05-30-2013, 12:26 AM   #71 (permalink)
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Posted this elsewhere, but though it should also be recorded in this thread. It's how I got my "mostly" stock 130x tail vibes out.

I used shims ($4 - Lynx 0.1mm brass). Shims were added between the main shaft collar and the upper bearing in the frame. I needed 2. This helped the A/B mesh

I went a bit extreme on chasing vibes out of my 130x tail, so here goes.

To follow what I did:
  • Remove main gear (or at least drop off motor pinion - I changed my whole main shaft with auto-rotation gear, but if keeping stock shaft and gear this would suffice)
  • Remove tail shaft (easy access to C gear and TT)
  • Remove C gear and TT
  • Inspect C gear for wear, grit or unevenness (use magnifying glass).
  • Test TT straightness and straighten if required (roll on glass)
    • To straighten, initially roll under pressure between two hard flat surfaces (gets 90% of the way there), then by rolling with one end off the end of a flat surface, you can make minute correcting bends to get almost perfectly completely straight.
  • Test integrity of the tail case bearing, inner race should have no lateral movement under pressure.
  • Ensure TT was not backwards (long flange to B/main shaft end, short to C/tail end)
  • Put C gear on TT, mark excess TT protruding from C gear centre
  • Remove C gear and file off excess TT so when C gear on TT, TT is flush with out C gear hole (no rubbing of excess TT on tail shaft sleeve)
  • Mount TT back in tail boom (I glue my C gear to the TT, leave to set, then mount)
  • Split the frame (told you it's extreme)
  • Remove boom, B gear and B gear bearing.
  • Inspect B gear for wear, grit or unevenness (use magnifying glass).
  • Check integrity of the B gear bearing, inner race should have no lateral movement under pressure.
  • Make minute adjustments to TT B flange is flush with end of B gear, B gear touching B gear bearing and C gear touching tail case bearing
  • Test if any vertical movement of main shaft (and proper A/B mesh) - this can be done with the frame split and makes it easy to adjust as required.
  • If vertical movement of main shaft, A/B mesh will be variable, so this should be fixed)
    • Remove main shaft (bearings and all) and remove main gear, lower bearing, A gear and upper bearing.
    • If not already done so, inspect A gear for wear, grit or unevenness (use magnifying glass). I have a metal A gear so it does not wear quickly, highly recommended (part of some stock kits).
    • Insert shim(s) onto main shaft.
    • Add upper bearing, A gear, lower bearing (and optionally main gear)
    • Test again for main shaft vertical play and A/B mesh (rinse, repeat till no main shaft play)
    • Add main gear to shaft (but so as not to engage motor yet)
  • Carefully re-assemble frame (do not pinch servo wires between frame and elevator servo )
  • Spin main shaft and check for binding, clicking or vibration (fingertips on boom as you spin the shaft, you should feel any issues - I had a lump on the back of my C gear that needed sanding off). At this point the mesh between A/B should be butter smooth.
  • Inspect D gear for wear, grit or unevenness (use magnifying glass).
  • Re-assemble tail (done this many times, still tricky, I use sewing needles, but others use spare tail shaft to help re-insert D gear and tail shaft sleeve in tail assembly. I still have trouble with re-seating the pitch slider, but getting more practised at it).
    • The mesh between C and D gear should not be tight. If it is, your boom is too far into the main frame (pushing the C gear out a touch) and this will wear the C and D gear and possibly case vibes.
  • Spin main shaft again and check for binding between C and D gears. Feel boom for unevenness.
  • Seat the main gear properly on the motor.
  • Finish reassembly and re-dynamic balance the tail blades (http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/130X-tail-vibration.html)
You should now have a vibe-free tail.

I used an auto-rotation gear to allow me to "feel" when things were not smooth (this is optional, and can be done on the stock 130x by dropping the main gear off the motor pinion, or temporarily removing the motor). (I also don't believe the 130x has the blade mass required to allow a proper auto).

Happy flying.
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Old 01-23-2014, 11:23 AM   #72 (permalink)
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So I'm guessing your shimming between the top main shift collar and the frame for proper A/B gear mesh??

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Old 01-24-2014, 05:57 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pavletic View Post
So I'm guessing your shimming between the top main shift collar and the frame for proper A/B gear mesh??
The primary reason for shims is to eliminate vertical play in the main shaft. Holding the frame, push and tug on the hub and see if the main shaft moves up and down at all. If it does, consider adding the shims.

The shims will help keep the A-gear in the same vertical location, so it indirectly does help being able to fix the mesh at A-B where one wants it.
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Old 02-23-2014, 09:41 AM   #74 (permalink)
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So.. opinions.. I was ready to pull the pin on a new t rex150 ..or this . what do you all think is the better of the two?
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Old 02-25-2014, 05:12 AM   #75 (permalink)
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Quote:
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So.. opinions.. I was ready to pull the pin on a new t rex150 ..or this . what do you all think is the better of the two?
I have 5 130x models and very happy
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Old 02-25-2014, 03:26 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Default Things to check when buying the 130x new before 1st flight and go to forums

Why 5 of the same model? I always have a pair of each model I have. Just curious of why 5
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Old 02-25-2014, 03:33 PM   #77 (permalink)
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I have more than 5, and they are all different. Stock, 3 bladed, 5 bladed, etc......
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Old 03-17-2014, 05:08 AM   #78 (permalink)
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my local hobby store has a sale on and i'm thinking of getting this .i've read this thread and this looks like a lot of work and exrta cash.
is this flyable out of the box or is there mandatory upgrades/mods that are going to add to my initial cost
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Old 05-01-2014, 07:48 AM   #79 (permalink)
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Default Things to check when buying the 130x new before 1st flight and go to forums

I got the Lynx tail case and (3) bearing tail boom and this thing is SOLID.....
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