Walkera 4#3 Tips and Tricks

[Dusty1000]

Good pics Steve, a lot of folk find flybar weights helpful, and equal lengths of solder seem the best way to go, then in time you can shorten them to reduce weight before removing them altogether.

When you're setting flybar paddle pitch, the pitch will vary as the flybar rotates relative to whatever angle the swashplate is sitting at, so for the benefit of anyone who doesn't know, always set the paddle pitch by lining them up with the paddle control frame (bit the flybar goes through below the blade holders), since it sits at the same angle as the swashplate, and is in line of sight with the paddles

[Dusty1000]

Originally Posted by alf_flash

Please take a look at the awesome mods this guy performed to his 4#3

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=drB38-0J-cA

God Bless

I think those helis are all show and no go, notice you don't get to see them actually flying!
I laughed when I saw the skids on one don't actually touch the deck, the battery tray sits lower down!
I do like the way he has strengthened the tail booms though.

Thanks for posting the vid!

[Steve Joblin]

Excellet point Dusty1000 makes about setting the pitch relative to the control frame. Now I understand why it seems that my paddle pitch keeps changing a bit

Guess my idea wasn't so good after all

I wish they made micro pitch guages!

[alf_flash]

Hello, i have found out that the Eflite Blade CP tail motor heat sink, fits perfectly into the 4#3B main motor, the temp in my motor has drop drastically and it looks grate, it only add 0.5g to the heli.

I think it a must done mod to this little machine, in order to improve performance.

[alf_flash]

You can find the heat sink here.

http://www.helidirect.com/product_in...oducts_id=2667

i will post pictures tomorrow morning.
God Bless

[Dusty1000]

HBFP tail motor heat sinks also fit these motors. Personally I've never bothered, I wonder how detrimental to motor life the extra weight would be, although the heat sink itself may be helping to extend it.

On another note, it has just been suggested on another forum to use a lubricant like 3 in 1 oil in the motors instead of WD40, apparently what we are trying to do is stop sparking on the commutator, and apparently 3 in 1 oil does this job very well

[Steve Joblin]

I saw the same thing, Dusty1000, about 3in1 oil... I personally don't think it is a good idea as oil attracts dirt and dust which will just muck things up.... but that is just my opinion.

[alf_flash]

Some pictures of the heat sink

[robtangie]

Originally Posted by alf_flash

Some pictures of the heat sink

That's the same heat sink I use on mine. I doubled them up and use a second one about half way down the motor as well.

[alf_flash]

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=893687

[john aeras]

Hey Guys! Excellent thread! I own a 4#3 and a 4#3b, they are both a lot of fun to fly
although I find the 4#3 quicker in responding (it is lighter, although I have upgraded the head from plastic to aluminum)
The 4#3b however is a lot smoother (and a little easier to fly).
One thing that I tried to stiffen the main blades is make my own washers.
I use the plastic bags that parts come in (or you could use 6 mil pastic sheet), I fold
the plastic a few times ( this makes a few washers at a time) and cut a small hole with a leather punch in the folded plastic, I then take a single hole punch and centre it on the small hole I made with the leather punch and punch out the washers.
I found that the 6 mil is the best thickness for the washers.
You only use one per side and they do last a long time.
This mod alone improved the 4#3 flight a lot.
Hope this helps!
Sorry if I dragged on too long, as this is my first post!
Cheers!

[Steve Joblin]

Welcome John! Great idea! Others have talked about adding washers between the blades and the blade grips to remove some of the slop... I tried to make my own using a piece of plastic from the package that batteries come in, but it was too thick. I didn''t think about something thinner and flexible like a plastic bag, so I am excited to give your great idea a try! An excellent idea indeed!!

[robtangie]

Sounds like alot of work, lol. I just squeezed the blade holders together a little bit with some needle nose plyers.
But the washers would work too.

[pirellip]

Hello All,

Well after having my original motor last a matter of days (I was able to keep it going a bit longer by squirting some WD40 on it every once in awhile) I finally replaced it.

This time I did the classic motor break-in though. There are a few variants, and you can google them to find out, but I just used a new 1.5v battery and ran the main motor without a load for 90mins. This is pretty standard and it doesn't even get hot.

So far so good, my flight times have increased a few minutes and I have a feeling that this motor will last much longer. I'll keep you all posted on when it craps out.

Is anyone else breaking in their motors? It's a tough thing to do though - wait another 90 mins when you have a brand new heli that you can fly in your living room, but I think it'll be worth it.

Also I must say I'm really impressed with the 4#3B. The co-axial helis are a little too docile to really keep your skills sharp, and I've bailed on my 4#3B several times so I didn't crash under power, and so far I've only broken the battery tray (I now use a rubber band to help hold the battery) and cracked the canopy in a few places (tape and CA fix it up nice)

It sure beats a $15 plus (and sometimes a big plus) crash when I have an oops with my Trex in my garage.. I can't wait to get this 4#3B flying around a gym (on Monday, woot!)

[Steve Joblin]

I still have my original stock motor in my heli, but I think I'm going to follow pirellip's advice on my new spare motor and let it run through a 1.5 volt AA battery first, take it apart, give it a good cleaning with contact cleaner, give it a shot of WD-40 and reassemble before I put her in the 4#3b.

[robtangie]

Originally Posted by Steve Joblin

I still have my original stock motor in my heli, but I think I'm going to follow pirellip's advice on my new spare motor and let it run through a 1.5 volt AA battery first, take it apart, give it a good cleaning with contact cleaner, give it a shot of WD-40 and reassemble before I put her in the 4#3b.

Steve,
Don't use WD-40 on a new motor!!! I have been told by thouse who know more than me that WD-40 softens the metal of the brushes and will cause them to wear quicker. WD-40 should only be used as your motor is on it's last leg to get those last few flight.
Tri-Flow is the lube to use, http://www.helidirect.com/product_in...oducts_id=7149

[Steve Joblin]

I have heard that many people use enamel coated magnet wire to replace the thin stranded wire used to connect to the tail motor. Has anyone used Kynar wrapping wire? it is very, very strong, 30 guage, comes in several colors, and well insulated. Radio Shack sells it for $4 for 50 feet... http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062640

I have several rolls and have used it many times on circuit boards and find it very easy to work with. I'm surprised no one else has recommended it and was wondering why?

[robtangie]

Originally Posted by pirellip

Hello All,

Well after having my original motor last a matter of days (I was able to keep it going a bit longer by squirting some WD40 on it every once in awhile) I finally replaced it.

This time I did the classic motor break-in though. There are a few variants, and you can google them to find out, but I just used a new 1.5v battery and ran the main motor without a load for 90mins. This is pretty standard and it doesn't even get hot.

So far so good, my flight times have increased a few minutes and I have a feeling that this motor will last much longer. I'll keep you all posted on when it craps out.

Is anyone else breaking in their motors? It's a tough thing to do though - wait another 90 mins when you have a brand new heli that you can fly in your living room, but I think it'll be worth it.

Also I must say I'm really impressed with the 4#3B. The co-axial helis are a little too docile to really keep your skills sharp, and I've bailed on my 4#3B several times so I didn't crash under power, and so far I've only broken the battery tray (I now use a rubber band to help hold the battery) and cracked the canopy in a few places (tape and CA fix it up nice)

It sure beats a $15 plus (and sometimes a big plus) crash when I have an oops with my Trex in my garage.. I can't wait to get this 4#3B flying around a gym (on Monday, woot!)

I have been breaking in motors with what is called a "wet break" technique. I use 2 AA batteries (for 3volts) and dunk the motor under water... Yes I know it sounds crazy...
Durration of the recommended run time varies from 60min. to 20min. I have been going 30 to 45. Once done you have to be sure a blow the excess water out and allow it to dry completely. Then useing a "good" lube like Tri-Flow relube the bearings and output shaft. I'm told this is an old school method that guys have been useing to break in brushed motors for years.
I've had mixed results for longer motor life but all have run cooler with more power and a bit longer flight times as well.

I think some motors are just bad motors and no matter how you break them in,,, bad is bad. I think I'm on my 6th motor (just wet broke it and put it in yesterday) and of the 6, one was noisy, ran hot, and only lasted a few flights.

[Dusty1000]

Don't try and 'break in' these motors, there is no point. Brushed motors are usually broken in to allow the brushes to seat properly on the commutator, but in these motors there are no brushes, only metal fingers, so any 'breaking in' you do only serves to wear down the metal fingers, just as they do when you fly them.

I see a lot of discussion on contact cleaner and oil etc in the motors, basically what you are trying to do is provide as much lubrication as possible. Think about it, 2 bits of metal rubbing against each other, obviously any type of oil will be good with regards to less wear, contact cleaner will make no difference since it's not a lubricant.

I wouldn't think WD40 would soften metal in any way, to be sure you could try spraying some on various bits of scrap metal, then see if you think they are any softer after a few days

I once tried breaking in brushed motors under water for an Esky lama, same results as you Rob, noisy, rough, and broke very quickly.

Cheers
Dusty

[robtangie]

Originally Posted by Dusty1000

Don't try and 'break in' these motors, there is no point. Brushed motors are usually broken in to allow the brushes to seat properly on the commutator, but in these motors there are no brushes, only metal fingers, so any 'breaking in' you do only serves to wear down the metal fingers, just as they do when you fly them.

I see a lot of discussion on contact cleaner and oil etc in the motors, basically what you are trying to do is provide as much lubrication as possible. Think about it, 2 bits of metal rubbing against each other, obviously any type of oil will be good with regards to less wear, contact cleaner will make no difference since it's not a lubricant.

I wouldn't think WD40 would soften metal in any way, to be sure you could try spraying some on various bits of scrap metal, then see if you think they are any softer after a few days

I once tried breaking in brushed motors under water for an Esky lama, same results as you Rob, noisy, rough, and broke very quickly.

Cheers
Dusty

Hi Dusty,
As I see it,,, everyone has an opinion on a subject like this and to each his own... I try never to tell anyone what to do, but explain what I have done and how it worked out for me. What people do with that information is completely up to them.

Although,,, from the time I got into helis I was strongly cautioned about useing WD-40 for anything on them and then when I got my "melvil" I was also told not to use it on the brushes (fingers) because they are a very soft and thin metal and the WD would soften the metal and in turn wear the brushes quicker.
Again,,, I'm just passing along the information and the people here can do with it what they want.
Regards,
Rob.