blades for training/bumping around the yard.

[RaisedByWolves]

What are the different flight charistics to different blades for learning to hover and simple orientation (hovering, nose in, figure 8's) and basic flight training.

Where to start? Fiberglass? Flat bottom? Symmetrical?

Your input please on how each would affect different forms of flight.

300 to 450 heli.

[BrokeDad]

For first learning hovering and basic orientation the main factor is CHEAP.

[HeliLust]

My vote would be t250 built very light less than 300g, no canopy, low head speed and plastic blades.

Next up is an oxy, low headspeed, again with plastic blades.

Airfoil and all that don't make much difference in regards to mistakes. Crash costs however do.

My 250 is anywhere between $0 to $40 to fix, usually less than $20. On more than 1 occasion I have simply had to clean it up and fly again.

Oxy so far has been $20 to $30 each time the 2 times I've dropped it.

Then there's the old 450's and clones. There usually $30 to $40 but can be less because parts are everywhere cheap.

Another tip is you almost can't build too light, the heavier they are the harder they fall.

[RaisedByWolves]

To revisit this again, asked a different way, would I be better off with lighter or heavier blades?

I got some balsa shrink wrap blades that are very light and started...leaving the ground? Can't quite call it hovering, nor really flying, but I can keep it in the air for 20sec or so until I get into trouble and feel the need to lightly crash it into the ground.

I added some flybar weights and this helped me with overcorrecting to an extent, but I don't feel totally in control

Either my cg is off or my trim needs set more towards forward cause it would constantly drift alongside me to my left, so I'll straighten that out asap.

I'm thinking the heavier blades would add some stability in the same way the flybar weights did, correct?

I'm getting good at crashing though, 7 aborted flights until I broke a ball off of the mixer arm, a common problem with this heli.

[bad007]

Heavier blades and when lifting while your still in the backwash of the blades it will want to esp move left and be unstable till you get it up. The tail pushes right to counter the rotation of the blades and the air displaced by the mains intersecting with the air moving through the tail causes forward movement. When I still had FB-ed after setup it was always 2 right trim and one back B4 I even flew it.
Here's a believe it or not. I used to buy cheap stealth CF blades, real light and with any wind it felt unstable (450) I would get metal tape from the LHS and place around the blades right over the COG, may a bit farther out. Added just enough weight wind didn't both it so much. Cheap but effective.
All ya, symmetrical , best to learn with what you'll end up using down the road.

[JWeber]

Just order some Rotor Star blades from Hobby king. Generally the cheapest and will be just fine for what you are trying to accomplish. When I was first starting, I'd look for close outs and sales. Zeal and Align are also less expensive. You can also look on the classified here for cheap deals.

For hovering and orientation, it really doesn't matter. It's not until you start pushing the model a bit that you will notice a difference.

When I first started, my blades typically lasted less than 10 flights and usually less than 5.

Black Friday is coming, you should be able to get some good deals then.

[learnedthehardway]

Plastic or carbon plastic, softer response, cheapest price and highest durability available.

Quite a few choices for 300class not sure about 450 but I think KBDD makes plastic 450 blades, not sure though.

For stability wide chord, heavy blades seem best to me but good ones usually aren't cheap.

[BrokeDad]

I picked some of these fiberglass (360mm) ones up for 450 size (360CFX) and just sporting around. Super cheap at $7 a pair: (Cosmetics are not always perfect)

http://www.banggood.com/GARTT-GT450L...?rmmds=myorder

[Number]

Align 325mm Black are $18 and perform extremely well. Stable but powerful, cheap, and robust. They will be good for hovering all the way to extreme 3D.

I wouldn't trust cheap blades. Especially cheap fiberglass ones. I had them literally snap off entirely at the root in a very soft tip over. No way I'd trust them in flight.

[yakky]

Get the cheapo fiberglass blades in your size from Banggood. They range from $4-8. The $12 carbon blades they have are really sweet, just as nice as Align. Wood blades in theory limit damage to the head, but can't say if its really true.

Make sure you balance whatever you get really well, nothing like vibes to confuse a FBL and make flying more difficult than it needs to be.