Levelling the mixer arms on an se v2 head

[jagsta]

Apologies if this has been covered before, I did search around but can't seem to find a photo which shows how the mixer arms on the seesaw should look when levelled.

The problem I have is that the mixer arms aren't straight, they bend at the bearing, so the short arm points down a little. When you level the mixer arms when adjusting the head, do you want the two balls on the mixer arm to be level, or the ball on the long arm and the bearing level?

I've got the fixed length links (HS1300) on the head, so the top two sets of links are fixed at 20mm and 23.5mm. With these fixed links, zero pitch at mid stick makes the mixer arms level IF it's supposed to be the ball on the long arm and the bearing which are in line. If it's supposed to be both balls on the arm which are level, I can't see how you could do that with the fixed link, you'd always end up with negative pitch...

Hope that makes sense and someone can shed some light on this for me!

[sarmeneau]

http://video.helifreak.com/subpath=f...CPM_Part_1.wmv
http://video.helifreak.com/?subpath=...CPM_Part_2.wmv
watch these they will show you

[jagsta]

Thanks sarmeneau, I have watched the CCPM setup vids quite a few times, the problem is they are pretty low resolution and when he comes back after levelling the mixer arms I can't really tell which of the two cases above applies...

It looks like it might be ball to ball to me, but if that's the case I can't see how that would be possible using the se v2 fixed links, they just don't line up that way with 0 pitch on the blade grips.

[DonDuc]

I always try to level the bottom of the mixer arms so that the two balls form a horzontal line.
BTW: Same here with the fixed links. I couldn't get the arms level and pitch range symmetric with the fixed links, either. The upper ones going from the arms to the blade grips are more than half a mm too long - which may have to to with my copterx head block.

Do you have an Align head block?

[jagsta]

That's interesting, I don't have an original Align head either, it's a HK450GT, I didn't realise the head geometry would be different.

I fiddled around with it yesterday and got +11/-10 with 0 at centre stick, the washout arms and seesaw arms aren't quite level at centre stick. I'm trying to decide whether to put the original adjustable links on so I can get it set up perfectly, but I'm not sure it's worth it as that range seems ok.

I had to put the pitch swash mix at 80% to get that pitch range, which seems a little high, is that value ok?

[Bob O]

Originally Posted by jagsta

Apologies if this has been covered before, I did search around but can't seem to find a photo which shows how the mixer arms on the seesaw should look when levelled. SNIP

https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...9&postcount=14

Hope this helps.

[jagsta]

Thanks Bob O, that's exactly the image i've been looking for, I can see from this that it's the balls on the mixer arms which should be levelled.

I think i'm going to abandon the fixed links and set the head up just right.

[DonDuc]

That was what I did, too.
One of the far-east suppliers (don't remember which one) had a nice tool to measure link length. It's a set of two cones that clamp to the caliper branches. This way you can precisely measure the length and make sure you get two corresponding links exactly equal in length. May not really be necessary but works great !

[Aussie_phoenix]

Originally Posted by jagsta

I think i'm going to abandon the fixed links and set the head up just right.

The HS1300 fixed links work just fine on the V2 head. You need to setup from the top of the head down, with the fixed links in and blades at 0* pitch you then adjust the long links and the servo to swash links to get the mixer arms level and the washout/radius arms level.

.

[wanderer56]

Originally Posted by DonDuc

That was what I did, too.
One of the far-east suppliers (don't remember which one) had a nice tool to measure link length. It's a set of two cones that clamp to the caliper branches. This way you can precisely measure the length and make sure you get two corresponding links exactly equal in length. May not really be necessary but works great !

It's not my idea, but looks like it would work well.
Use on old tail boom and servo mounts. Install balls in servo mounts. Tighten the mounts up and you have yourself a homemade sero link adjusting tool!

I just zero out my calipers on the id of the link and them measure outer edge of inside link to link. This works too.

+1 Aussie Pheonix. I think these specs are pretty close:

P/N H45046-A=11mm, B=24mm,
P/N H450105-A=18.55mm, B=23mm,
P/N=HS1300T-A=19.65mm, B=22.6mm

You may have to use a combination of different fixed links to acheive level arms, especially when mixing head parts from different manufacturers. Personally, I like the fixed links. They make set-up much easier, once you have the right combination of links for your particular V2 head/arms. I have however gone completely to the sport head and swashplate.

[JAG1]

does this help mate?

http://www.jkheli.com/Trex/T%20rex%20links%20copy.jpg

[jagsta]

Originally Posted by Aussie_phoenix

The HS1300 fixed links work just fine on the V2 head. You need to setup from the top of the head down, with the fixed links in and blades at 0* pitch you then adjust the long links and the servo to swash links to get the mixer arms level and the washout/radius arms level.
.

Thanks, unfortunately the head on the clone I have doesn't seem to have identical geometry to the Align V2 head. It's not possible to level the mixer arms and have 0 degrees on the blades, as the top links are slightly too long (it equated to about 3 turns on the adjustable links).

Originally Posted by wanderer56

It's not my idea, but looks like it would work well.
Use on old tail boom and servo mounts. Install balls in servo mounts. Tighten the mounts up and you have yourself a homemade sero link adjusting tool!

I just zero out my calipers on the id of the link and them measure outer edge of inside link to link. This works too.

+1 Aussie Pheonix. I think these specs are pretty close:

P/N H45046-A=11mm, B=24mm,
P/N H450105-A=18.55mm, B=23mm,
P/N=HS1300T-A=19.65mm, B=22.6mm

You may have to use a combination of different fixed links to acheive level arms, especially when mixing head parts from different manufacturers. Personally, I like the fixed links. They make set-up much easier, once you have the right combination of links for your particular V2 head/arms. I have however gone completely to the sport head and swashplate.

It's interesting that it might be possible to mix and match the fixed links, I might measure the adjusted links I've ended up with and see if they are equivalent to any of the fixed links i've got from either the sport or v2 set.

Originally Posted by JAG1

does this help mate?

http://www.jkheli.com/Trex/T%20rex%20links%20copy.jpg

Yes, thanks for this JAG1, that's the clearest shot i've seen of the mixer arm alignment yet.

[dze]

see the link where it says 6.5mm? those links ..... after you rough set your swash height to center your washout base movement (and check for no binding at the extremes of swash movement with full cyclic as you set this, generally a 50 figure in swash mix is good enough for ail and elev for setup purposes and recheck after its 'roughed' in) adjust those links to level the washout arms ... then on up use the long links to level the upper *******, MIXER arms ... then on up use the short grip links to rough the grips to zero, you can drop a blade screw through them and do that by eye aligning the blade screw to the mainshaft ..after that put the blades in and fine tune the blade to be dead nuts with the flybar by sighting the tip profile of the blade with the flybar ..

.. this assumes you have everything zeroed in the tx, level servo horns, swash ect as per setup ritual
-other note, i wouldnt go off somebody elses 'mm' measurments either, every head is different alittle and tolerances vary.

.. hope that was clear enough to help

[wanderer56]

Originally Posted by wanderer56

P/N H45046-A=11mm, B=24mm,
P/N H450105-A=18.55mm, B=23mm,
P/N=HS1300T-A=19.65mm, B=22.6mm

The H45046 and H450105 mm are Align specs are as per Align's website. The spec for the H1300 aren't given, but are what I measured from a set I had. All specs are center to center.

[Aussie_phoenix]

Jagsta, what type of clone head do you have on there?

OK just read back a little earlier and saw that it is a HK450GT. I am yet to have a look at those heads but the CopterX450SEV2 works just as well with the HS1300 links as my Align SEV2 heads.

.

[DonDuc]

It seems that the copterX heads vary between individuals. In one of my headblocks the little plastic part that locks the flybar doesn't fit while on the other it does. On my current head the upper links have to be somewhere aroudn 17.8mm for the mixer arms to be level.

[jagsta]

Originally Posted by dze

.. hope that was clear enough to help

Cheers dze, yes that made sense, i've go the head set up OK now I think, with the adjustable links in place I could level the washout and mixer arms nicely. My final pitch swash mix value was 75% to maximise the travel of the swash. I've got similar values for aileron and elevator to provide the desired 7 degrees of cyclic. This setup gives me +/-11 degrees of pitch.

Originally Posted by Aussie_phoenix

Jagsta, what type of clone head do you have on there?

OK just read back a little earlier and saw that it is a HK450GT. I am yet to have a look at those heads but the CopterX450SEV2 works just as well with the HS1300 links as my Align SEV2 heads.

.

This is my first 450 build, and I kind of regret getting the HK clone. It certainly is cheap, but the parts quality hasn't been fantastic, I think the alloy is quite soft and things like the main shaft were also bent right out of the box. I've ended up replacing the tail grip and hub, pitch slider, main shaft, feathering shaft, tail drive gear assembly and upper bearing block, some of the bearings, most of the bolts, the list goes on. The fact the geometry of the head isn't identical is another reason it's been a bit more awkward to get built, as a first build it could have been a lot easier I think, I should have gone for the Tarot!