Outrage Velocity Build Tips...

[Aussie_G]

OK, I have built/rebuilt these velocity's a few times & I figured Id start a list to help out guys just starting a build....

This list is not exhaustive, but its what I have collected so far..

1. use a small round file or carefully with a dremel, open the holes for the canopy break away tabs so that the post bolt does not bind in the frame (it will save frames)

2. Make sure you install fuel lines before installing the tank, both the main fuel line & the pressure line are hard to get to afterwards

3. rotate the main shaft collar 90 degrees from the flats on the main shaft, use a second main shaft spacer or use a clamp style collar to prevent the collar from popping up
NOTE- The new kits have a clamp style collar to fix this issue

4. Make sure you put some kind of oil in the main autorotation bearing & the clutch one way bearing - 2in1 works great

5. Dont overtighten the paddle set screws

6. When installing the elevator bellcrank (the one outside the frames), there are 2 set screws, make sure you tighten the one against the flat on the control rod first, then tighten the other


I will add to the list if I think or find anything else..
But basically this is just about the easiest machine to build, and best of all, flys great...

[watso]

i had to tap holes on engine mount just to mount to frame they were not tapped. i had to tap holes on see saw because they were not tapped. no holes in canopys, no canopy grommets to bad i have to use another brand for this considering the cost of this kit. to small of finishing washers for fan shroud, bolts would no go thru holes.so took from kit will have to buy more for frame sides to match.we will see how the rest of this build goes.

[Aussie_G]

You need to speak to Helidirect (or who you bought it from) about those issues, if you have bad parts then they need to be replaced.i have not seen or heard about any holes not being tapped, or the washers being too small.

Im glad the canopy holes were not drilled, that gives the option of moving forward or back a little to fit different batteries & electronics up front.

[Foxden]

That's odd on the fan shroud, they are 3x8mm bolts, the same used everywhere else on the heli, compare the washers you used on the shroud with another used to secure the frame and verify they are not the same size if you get a chance, this is the first we've heard of a finishing washer being too small.

Thanks for pointing these out as I'm sure Charley will be talking to the factory and making sure that QC checks are being done, remember we are only just getting to the first 50+ kits delivered and info like your reporting is very helpful in making sure the kits are correct.

[H to the C]

Correct , Watso please inform Charley, Greg, or Myself if you or anyone else has these troubles. I'm sorry about this, We try to make darn sure the factory does good quality control, but something always slips by them.

This really makes me VERY MAD! I will take this up with the factory.

henry caldwell

[HeLiPLT2]

Well everything in my kit was ok untill I got to the aleiron bell crank, your supposed to get 3 shims and 2 washers well I got 3 washers and 2 shims(already taken care of) and when I went to screw the bottom plate and landing gear on, the bottom plate didn't line up by about 2mm makin it imposible to get all of the screws in I just fixed this by drilling the holes alittle further out no biggie other than that everything else was fine.

[BenHeli]

One of the paddles was not tapped for the set screw. Not a problem since I'm planning to use KBDD paddles.

[watso]

i am not complaining i am just pointing these things out. so they can service there future customers with a better product. the washers are made for 2.5 hex head bolts not 3mm . the heads wont even fit in the recess.

[pitch black]

My build was pretty damn smooth.
And it turned out S-E-X-Y!

But my stock canopy had quite a few visible smudges, deep scratches etc.
And the rear mounting holes were not lined up, so theres a twist in the canopy when mounted.

Thanx!

[Foxden]

Originally Posted by watso

i am not complaining i am just pointing these things out. so they can service there future customers with a better product. the washers are made for 2.5 hex head bolts not 3mm . the heads wont even fit in the recess.

Watso,

Thanks, remember the factory also makes the 550 so some of the finishing washers from the 550 kit may have gotten into the Vel 50, I'm sure Charley, Greg, and Henry will get it all sorted out.

We understand that some things will slip through the cracks and bringing it to our attention will get it resolved quickly.

[Foxden]

Originally Posted by pitch black

My build was pretty damn smooth.
And it turned out S-E-X-Y!

But my stock canopy had quite a few visible smudges, deep scratches etc.
And the rear mounting holes were not lined up, so theres a twist in the canopy when mounted.

Thanx!

Pitch,

From what we noticed at IRCHA the stock canopies only had the top left side hole dimpled or marked, Charley made a template from a canopy there and reamed holes for anyone that brought there Vel 50, I know he is already addressing this with the factory. The Align lexan reamer does a great job on our fiberglass canopies, I believe Charley said that 7.5 was the magic number on the reamer for a perfect grommet fit.

[pitch black]

hmm, thats weird.
Mine came drilled, just not big enough.

On another note, any development on the Main one-way locking up issue.
I maidened mine today, and i simply loved the locked feel of the heli.
But, my one-way siezed on the 1st flight. And i already heavily tri-flowed it prior to installation.

Thanx!

[watso]

is it better to use triflow or diff lube?

[LITHIUMSTATIC]

Originally Posted by pitch black

On another note, any development on the Main one-way locking up issue.

One thing to keep in mind when oiling the one-way is to use thin oil and not heavy grease. Tri-Flow makes both, so make sure it's the light thin oil and not the goopy heavy grease.

[Foxden]

Originally Posted by watso

is it better to use triflow or diff lube?

Tri Flow Oil

[fsusmithc2]

Originally Posted by Foxden

I believe Charley said that 7.5 was the magic number on the reamer for a perfect grommet fit.

That's what I remember using. Greg showed me how to do mine while I was there.

Sorry to hear the troubles with your kit watso but I'm sure HD will help sort you out.

Another build tip is to use red locktite on the tips of the bolts that go through the side of the see-saw. Optionally, you could also find or make 9mm bolts instead of the included 8mm ones to have a few more threads for a better fit. Clay helped me make up some for my head at IRCHA. Just make sure the threads don't enter into the area where the flybar is supposed to go.

I think I heard about the "don't put your paddle set screws in too far" tip before but I didn't really notice anything with mine when building other than it didn't seem to snug up as tight as I would have expected and I didn't want to drive it down any further. Any specific tip to know when you've tightened far enough?

Also, with regard to the collar issue, I turned mine 90 from the flats and just tightened the set screws. After two flights it seemed ok but possibly a slight up/down wiggle. Does adding the extra washer help somehow?

[fsusmithc2]

I went off to read some other threads, thought of another tip, and lost it. The only thing I can think of was if you plan to use a magnet sensor, it's best to build the sensor (attach it to the bracket) and attach it to the frame before you get the frames built up. Otherwise you're going to need some strong and skinny needle-nose pliers or hemostats to get in there and hold on to the nuts later.

I'm pretty sure the tip I had in mind was something else.... Oh well, I'll post again if I think of it.

Update: Eureka! In a momentary flash of mental energy, I remembered the tip I wanted to post but I give the credit to Clay: Use a little shoe goo in the hole on the left frame side that the servo wire goes into to protect the wire from chafing. I'll post a picture when I get home if I can remember that much but I'm out of town at the moment.

[wilywampa]

Is it necessary or a good idea to dial indicate or balance the fan hub or clutch on the Velocity 50?

[pitch black]

Originally Posted by LITHIUMSTATIC

One thing to keep in mind when oiling the one-way is to use thin oil and not heavy grease. Tri-Flow makes both, so make sure it's the light thin oil and not the goopy heavy grease.

Mine is definitely not goopy. Pretty runny thin oil.

Thanx!

[Foxden]

Not needed with the design of the hub, it sits down on the crankshaft and then has a set of pinch bolts on either side to make sure it can't move, I didn't dial indicate ours and had no vibrations