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Finless Bob's Helifreak Tech Room Finless Bob's Helifreak Tech Room - Tips and how-To Videos


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Old 06-30-2006, 10:52 AM   #101 (permalink)
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Joe,
Go to the hardware store for BLUE locktite.
For CA and the ball link pliers you can order thme from just about any hobby place. Try some of the advertisers here like Modefos, Readyheli, RCHover, etc. These guys are great places to pick up tools and parts and I have bought from all of them before.

For ball link pliers get a set that is BENT at the tips and has the thinnest blades you can get.

Bob
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Old 06-30-2006, 11:14 AM   #102 (permalink)
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Hi Joe,

I've just completed building an HDE this week and Bob's videos were invaluable.

I would suggest that you do NOT buy anything larger than an 1800mAh battery (or more importantly, longer than 90mm, wider than 32mm or heavier than 155gm). I did and they are a real bugger to fit on an HDE frame. The battery mount on a CDE frame is much better than HDE as the different servo mounting arrangement allows more room, easier access and a position closer to the CG.

With my 2250 mAh batteries I had to build a battery tray extension and completely reorganise my Rx installation to make enough room. Even so, the standard canopy doesn't fit as stock as I will have to add weight at the back to bring the CG back under the main shaft.

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You mention lockite and CA and some kind of special pliers. Could you give some more details like brands and where to purchase them?
LocTite is a well known brand of threadlock compound. It stops the screws screwed into metal from vibrating loose. You will need Loctite 243 (blue) or equivalent NON-permanent threadlock. You can normally get it at almost any hardware store.

CA = cyanacrylate (commonly know as "super glue"). This is readily available at hardware stores and all hobby shops. It comes in several consitencies, get some thin and some medium. In my experience brand doesn't matter, CA is CA. Having said that, Zap brand CA has been very popular in modelling circles for ages.

Ball-link pliers. These are for clicking the plastic eyelets onto/off from the ball links. They are very hard to find in Australia as they are a specialised hobby tool, mostly for helicopters. You can get them from lots of online stores. In the end I couldn't get any that had fine enough tips for a model the size of the TRex. Instead I use chip-puller tweezers I bought for 1.87 at a local electronics store to remove the eyelets and fingers to replace them. Some online RC shops have ball-link tweezers and they could be good for a TRex, it just wasn't worth the postage to Australia for me to try them out. Google "ball link tool" or "ball link plier" and you should find plenty of options.

You will also definitely need a decent set of hex drivers, allen keys are a pain to use and frankly, I cannot see how some of the assembly could be done without the reach of a proper hex driver. Besides, the multicoloured anodized handles look great in your toolbox!

There is also a ball-link resizing tool (just google it) which some people never need and others use lots. It is used to ensure that the plastic eyelets are not too tight on the balls. I couldn't have done without it as 90% of the eyelets in my kit were too tight. My friend who bought a CDE kit found none of his needed resizing. Since you are in the US and can get anything at a moment's notice and one or two day's shipping delay you could opt to wait and see, but I suggest you just get one.

Another *must* have is a pitch guage. The Align one is fine (at least to me as a newbie).

Good luck with the process, enjoy it,
Kenneth
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Old 06-30-2006, 11:30 AM   #103 (permalink)
 

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Thanks Kenneth and Bob for your super quick replies.

I was asking about the Loctite because I used it once on my car's water pump and I was never able to take it apart again! I had to replace the whole unit because Loctite froze the fittings so tight I couldn't get it apart. It was the brown Loctite. But I'll look for the BLUE stuff. And the CA I was asking about becuase I fly rockets and I use "gap filling" CA from Zap for them. So I'll just buy some thin and thicker stuff. Ball link pliers sounds like something Sears here in the US would sell.

Now I need to go home and see if the mailman delievered my Trex!

Joe C
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Old 06-30-2006, 11:42 AM   #104 (permalink)
 

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I use the Apex 2100 batteries. They are large and fit snuggly under the canopy, but they fit. I shifted my tail servo as far back as possible (Bob's idea) and that compensated for the CG.

As far as the link sizing tool, mount a ball on a spare servo arm and score the surface a few times with a razor knife (also Bob's idea). This will create small ridges on the ball. Snap the link on and spin it to gently carve the link out to fit. Works a lot better than my old method of squeezing the link with needle nose and this way the link remains round.
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Old 06-30-2006, 11:46 AM   #105 (permalink)
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Wow guys... thanks for adding all the detail to the answers for Joe.

Joe, these guys gave 100% straight poop on your questions. As for the allen tools I really like the Align 4 pack of handled allen tools. They seem to fit the Align screws really well and they are cheap!

Bob
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Old 06-30-2006, 01:51 PM   #106 (permalink)
 

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WOW! I got my XL today! Dee Tee sure is fast!!

My unit must be a new one since the manual says V2 March 2006. I opened the box and I see that the main rotor unit is already assemblied! What the hey? Is this new? I thought I was suppose to assemble it? Anyway, I took a picture of it and since I don't know how to attach it here, I posted it on my website,

http://www.joecool.org/rotor.jpg

The manual looks alot different inside than the one I downloaded and is now 21 pages long instead of 17. So now I need to bridge between what I got and Bob's videos.

Joe C

P.S. I got some blue Permatex threadlock stuff. I hope it is the right one.
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Old 06-30-2006, 01:56 PM   #107 (permalink)
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Yes I am told the XL kits will now come some what pre-assembled.

I wish they wouldnt do that IMHO.

Bob
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Old 06-30-2006, 04:58 PM   #108 (permalink)
 

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Quick question to anyone who has received the XL partially assemblied....did Align assemble with loctite or do I really have to disassemble each screw and loctite it? If I do, it kind of defeats shipping it partially assembled.

Joe C.
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Old 06-30-2006, 05:17 PM   #109 (permalink)
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check it all... better safe than sorry.
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Old 06-30-2006, 05:55 PM   #110 (permalink)
 

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I took mine all apart. Not much loctite from the factory. The Finless video's are awesome. Thank you for all the work in getting them up, especially the CCPM 1 and 2
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Old 06-30-2006, 07:41 PM   #111 (permalink)
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This conversation about fitting batteries into an HDE frame has been moved to the TRex forum here: https://www.helifreak.com/viewtopic.php?p=124731#124731

[quote="zooland1"]I use the Apex 2100 batteries. They are large and fit snuggly under the canopy, but they fit. I shifted my tail servo as far back as possible (Bob's idea) and that compensated for the CG.
quote]

That's on an HDE, right ?

My hexTronic 2250 3S1P 12/15C are 35mm wide, 104mm long and weigh 167g. At 35mm they are too wide to slide all the way to the back of the battery tray and I think even if they could, it's too short to provide adequate support and there is a risk of puncturing the battery on the front edge in a hard landing. So I had to make a tray extension to help hold them. It's only 7g, but it's right out the front. I found I could shorten it by about 10mm compared to the photo, back to the velcro.

I mounted the rudder servo as far back as I could, moved the ESC, Rx and ferrite as far back as I could and still (a) the stock canopy doesn't fit without rubbing on the aileron control arms and (b) the CG is too far foward (looks like it might need as much as 35g added to the rear compartment of the frame

Of course your mileage may vary.
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Old 06-30-2006, 09:47 PM   #112 (permalink)
 

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The apex looks to be about the same size. The main difference I see between yours and mine is the thickness of the extension. I used a scrap of an old Picollo blade, only about 1/16 thick. I also have a CSM gyro (very large) which I had to mount on an aluminum bracket under the boom. Between less forward thickness and more gyro on the rear that may be just enough on mine to offset the CG. Like I said, my canopy is snug, but it fits. I don't have my bird in here right now, but I'll check the actual dims and take a pic or two.

On another note, I just finished helping a friend build his with a telebee gyro. Also mounted on a bracket under the boom. Using the Apex it balances fine. With his 1800 we actually had to move it out on the support to balance it. He also has a very large Futaba Rx mounted to the rear. Probably the factor here.
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Old 06-30-2006, 10:15 PM   #113 (permalink)
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I am using an MKS/GY191 HH gyro which is tiny and only 6g. It's mounted under the tailboom box as far back as possible.

I'll be very interested to see your photos.

Thank you,
Kenneth
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* TRex450CF/430L/12t/CC45/HS65mg/L2100T/KP 3s 2200 25C or 4S LiFe
Previous rides: HX242, W5-4, TRex450(HDE), TRex450(SE), QJ-EP8v2, BCX2 ,Logo10, Hurricane550
SIM: Phoenix (previously also Reflex/XTR, ClearView, RF, FMS)
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Old 06-30-2006, 10:17 PM   #114 (permalink)
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No offense but you guys should move this convo into the Trex forum so others can benefit. I am OK either way but at this point it would be better served there.

Bob
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Old 07-01-2006, 08:26 PM   #115 (permalink)
 

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OK, while assembling my XL using Bob's videos and manual, I have hit my first show stopper. The one way bearing shaft (#88 in my manual) doesn't have a hole in it that is used for the bolt which holds the main gear to the main rotor shaft. I assume it is defective. I certainly don't want to drill it as I have no easy way to drill a straight hole into the shaft or the right size bit. I rather get it replaced before I attempt to drill it. Anyone seen this problem? I'll go back to DeeTee and see if they can correct or I am afraid I'll have to go to Align for help.

Joe C
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Old 07-02-2006, 11:08 AM   #116 (permalink)
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So the sleeve that goes in the one way has not hole?
I have never seen that myself but I would'nt doubt that it could happen.
Yes get it replaced. It's cheap.

Bob
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Old 07-02-2006, 01:20 PM   #117 (permalink)
 

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I uploaded to my gallery 2 pictures of the shaft. In the first one you can barely see what looks like a center hole punch mark like they started to mark but never drilled it.

Joe C.
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Old 07-02-2006, 01:42 PM   #118 (permalink)
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Wierd.... the bottom is black too!

Obviously this part didnt get finished!

Bob
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Old 07-02-2006, 08:13 PM   #119 (permalink)
 

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Putting the tail together on the XL and I don't notice any secure way to attach the boom. It looks like it just slides into the frame. Is that it? After the belt tension is set, isn't there a way to lock the boom in place? I can see where it would be a friction fit as I need alot of force to slide it in. Maybe I suppose to loosen up the frame screws in that area first?

Joe C
P.S. Sure could use a video on this! I have another question on the pitch setting on the tail rotor. Moving the linkage that sets the pitch has a resistance spot as the blades approach 0 degrees. And the fork unit (tail rotor control arm) is not centered on the shaft but offset toward the hub when the blades are flat (zero degrees). I don't see any thing wrong so I am thinking this is normal?
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Old 07-10-2006, 08:18 PM   #120 (permalink)
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Hay bob, I'm puting an align head onto my x400 and wanted to know if the setup Im going to do will be best for solid controll and dampining. I plan on useing cnc swahs, washsout, mixer arms, cage, headblock, andgrips. I plan on staying with plastic on the seesaw itself to dampen the flybar. Am I correct that this will be better way to go? I want to have a solid head and reduce vibs. Your vids have helped me on so many helis not just trex.
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