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Old 08-23-2009, 02:27 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Default velocity

well order some new servo horns. fine tune a couple of areas. and go fly. did anyone pin the boom on back of frame and to the tail case? i think i will , a simple screw in each can save alot of repair.

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Old 08-23-2009, 06:43 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Default pinned tail

i pinned my tail case to the boom. i have seen what happens when a tail case comes of in flight.
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Old 08-23-2009, 07:02 PM   #23 (permalink)
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My tail booms never stay straight long enough for the tail to fall off...

The use-by date on my heli is usually only 8-10 flights... sometimes less...
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Old 08-23-2009, 07:25 PM   #24 (permalink)
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that's to bad
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Old 08-23-2009, 09:20 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussie_G View Post
My tail booms never stay straight long enough for the tail to fall off...

The use-by date on my heli is usually only 8-10 flights... sometimes less...
LOL
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Old 08-23-2009, 11:31 PM   #26 (permalink)
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On the first flight, there was this weird "shreik" noise to the one-bearing when the heli was spooling down. It went away after that and no problem the next 3 tanks.

I used remote glow and could not get the booster tip to go onto the glow plug after the engine was installed. So to fix the problem, and to prevent future problem if the glow plug goes bad, I removed the spring-load with booster and soldered in an alligator clip. Easy fix if the glow plug goes bad in the future.
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Old 08-24-2009, 12:12 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
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i pinned my tail case to the boom. i have seen what happens when a tail case comes of in flight.
Yea, i pinnned mine front and back. Whether it needs it or not i just like to know its not going anywhere.

I also needed 3 QUK gaskets to get sufficient clearance between the tank and my MP5SB.

I replaced the front canopy screws with QUK Trex700 ones.

Pack the one ways with grease before fitting them.

I flipped the lower electronics tray upside down so i could stick my Rx to the bottom of it and notched a bit out of the top tray so i could hide all the wires.

I have a little bit more tidying to do, like moving the satallite up to the top and hiding the wire.

I am also planning on notching the breakaway tabs across the centre line to make sure they snap first.

I was i little disappointed there were no Outrage velcro straps and that i had to put some old Align grey ones on there.

Still, lovin this heli so far.









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Old 08-24-2009, 12:24 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Nice mod. +1 on the "no Outrage velcro strap." I'm using align for now until I can get some "generic" straps.

I stayed with the stock thumb screws and used a 450 rubber grommet, cut it in half, to cushion the thumb screws agaist the canopy.
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Old 08-24-2009, 01:40 PM   #29 (permalink)
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these work well for the thumb screws
http://www.helidirect.com/aluminum-a...lue-p-7938.hdx
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Old 09-11-2009, 08:31 PM   #30 (permalink)
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My ball links don't have text on either side, but one side has a slightly raised circle around the hole. Which side do I push the ball through?
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Old 09-11-2009, 10:10 PM   #31 (permalink)
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the slighlty raised circle faces out, i do believe.
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Old 09-11-2009, 10:23 PM   #32 (permalink)
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push the ball thru the one with the ring or raised circle.it is the larger opening
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Old 09-11-2009, 10:49 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Craig33,

I can tell you first hand that the breakaway tabs are perfect, they are strong enough so your canopy won't come off during flight and the thickness and design will breakaway in a crash, Steven slammed his tail in at IRCHA in a weird angle that once the tail hit it launched the heli tumbling forward as soon as the canopy hit all 4 tabs broke away and the canopy was undamaged, just keep an eye if you try to butterfly or bowtie the breakaways that it may weaken them enough to cause them to snap in flight, I have seen it happen on other brands, the 550 and Vel 50 tabs hold up very well in flight and do there job in a crash, Steven has put his 550's in more than once (same design as the Vel 50) and they always did there job saving the canopy from being destroyed.
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Old 09-11-2009, 11:46 PM   #34 (permalink)
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I figured out that the balls do go through the opening with the raised circle, because that side has the bigger opening and that's how it is on the lower mixing arms.

Does anyone else have crooked paddles? I wonder if I should replace them.
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Old 09-12-2009, 05:46 AM   #35 (permalink)
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The paddles will fly, but you should contact helidirect for replacement paddles
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Old 09-19-2009, 10:41 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Every kit I've seen has crooked paddles. (7 so far) What are you using for canopy grommets? I drilled new holes for the upper radio mounting tray 6mm lower than stock for battery/canopy clearance. AR7100 still fits below, I'll try to post pictures. Any issues we've passed on have been handled quickly and professionally by Outrage. First run kits are always more interesting

I originally set the heli up with advanced settings but changed them to intermediate before it flew. 10.5 deg. collective is all I can get. Is there one ball I can or should change to get more pitch?
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Old 09-20-2009, 12:25 AM   #37 (permalink)
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I wouldn't fly those paddles
get some aftermarket ones and put those paddles where they belong. the garbage
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Old 09-20-2009, 10:52 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Default AHH These Paddles?

Got lucky when Mine threw one...
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Old 09-24-2009, 09:42 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussie_G View Post
OK, I have built/rebuilt these velocity's a few times & I figured Id start a list to help out guys just starting a build....

This list is not exhaustive, but its what I have collected so far..

1. use a small round file or carefully with a dremel, open the holes for the canopy break away tabs so that the post bolt does not bind in the frame (it will save frames)

2. Make sure you install fuel lines before installing the tank, both the main fuel line & the pressure line are hard to get to afterwards

3. rotate the main shaft collar 90 degrees from the flats on the main shaft, use a second main shaft spacer or use a clamp style collar to prevent the collar from popping up

4. Make sure you put some kind of oil in the main autorotation bearing & the clutch one way bearing - 2in1 works great

5. Dont overtighten the paddle set screws

6. When installing the elevator bellcrank (the one outside the frames), there are 2 set screws, make sure you tighten the one against the flat on the control rod first, then tighten the other


I will add to the list if I think or find anything else..
But basically this is just about the easiest machine to build, and best of all, flys great...
can you explain the 3rd can you show a photo.. because i am building it right now.. thx...
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Old 09-24-2009, 10:10 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Just use a 10mm spacers instead, i got mine from a bag of 700n dampers (the spacer between the grips and dampers on the 700n is the perfect size), remember just to use one set screw NOT both.
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