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Outrage Velocity 50 Nitro Outrage Velocity 50 Nitro Helicopter Factory Support Forum


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Old 09-24-2009, 11:03 AM   #41 (permalink)
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on the main shaft you mean? if dont think that i can understand why there is a need of this spacer... ithink i dont know where you put it.
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Old 09-24-2009, 11:59 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Yes, the flat spot on the mainshaft to secure the setscew was ground too high, so you need to space the collar alittle higher up on the mainshaft so the set screw hits the flat spot.
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Old 09-24-2009, 01:06 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Here you go - excuse my nitro residue
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Old 09-24-2009, 04:53 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussie_G View Post
Here you go - excuse my nitro residue
ok i will try to find one is there any in the spare bag??
Also why i need that spacer??!
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Old 09-24-2009, 05:08 PM   #45 (permalink)
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I dont think there is one for a spare. if you dont have a suitable spacer the best thing for you to do is turn the collar 90 degrees then tigten it down, so that the set screws are NOT on the flat spots

Look at this diagram to see why

the 2 set screws when they are tight, sit right on the edge of where the flat spot starts, so after a few flights they will pop up to the flat spot & then they will be loose, causing the head to move up & down.

So either you need to space the main clamp up a little higher to get it up to the flat spots, or turn the main clamp so that its away from the flat spots completely...

The last option is to use a clamp style main clamp, the newest version of the mainshaft from helidirect has one.
http://www.helidirect.com/r50n908ss-...ty-p-14047.hdx

Hope this helps
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Old 09-25-2009, 04:41 AM   #46 (permalink)
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I dont think there is one for a spare. if you dont have a suitable spacer the best thing for you to do is turn the collar 90 degrees then tigten it down, so that the set screws are NOT on the flat spots

Look at this diagram to see why

the 2 set screws when they are tight, sit right on the edge of where the flat spot starts, so after a few flights they will pop up to the flat spot & then they will be loose, causing the head to move up & down.

So either you need to space the main clamp up a little higher to get it up to the flat spots, or turn the main clamp so that its away from the flat spots completely...

The last option is to use a clamp style main clamp, the newest version of the mainshaft from helidirect has one.
http://www.helidirect.com/r50n908ss-...ty-p-14047.hdx

Hope this helps
AAA n1... the fault was that you say 90o its 180o upsidedown...
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Old 09-25-2009, 06:12 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Actually no - if you turn it upside down it wont work...

there is a small raised section on the bottom of the collar to rest against the inner race of the top bearing.

when you put the main shaft clamp on, line it up with the machined slots, turn it 90 degrees, then tighten it down.
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Old 09-25-2009, 10:38 AM   #48 (permalink)
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aa ok...! no i undestood... in order to go away from the flat of the shaft... and something else on the shaft i screw on the bottom hole right?
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Old 09-25-2009, 10:40 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Bottom hole - that is correct.
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Old 09-25-2009, 06:19 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Lol Aussie my Kit has the new one.. now i saw it... because its time to put the main shaft..!
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Old 12-13-2009, 06:06 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Ok my first mod to my V50 is the same as i do on all my helis is to run a simple bridge across the boom supports, not because they add extra structual rigidity or anything silly like that, it just prevents one of them from going into the main blades if it comes loose. Run some shoegoo under the velcro (it has a slot on the end so you can loop it around the boom first) so they don't slide around the boom.

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Old 12-13-2009, 06:12 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Wish i could take credit for this one but its from Clyde. Take the two bearings out of the tail bell crank. Drill or file the shoulder off the bell crank. Then stuff the two bearing back in along with a shouldered bearing. I also opt'ed to run a longer bolt so i could put a nylock on the other side of the tail bell crank arm.




Here is a quick vid of me showing how there is almost zero slop while remaining very smooth.

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Old 12-15-2009, 04:44 PM   #53 (permalink)
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guys the frame spacer between the boom supports broke....
I thaught that it broke from a bad Auto but i heard that its a problem of Veloc... is there a solution to this...

For now i have done a spacer by my own...!
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Old 12-28-2009, 02:52 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Default Main shaft collar and pinning tail

The kit that I won in a raffle at 2009 Orlando FF has no flat spot on the main shaft and has a compression collar included, so can I assume that issue has already been addressed and that the raised lip on the compression collar sits directly on the top block bearing?
And B, how does one go about pinning the tail boom?
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Old 12-28-2009, 02:57 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Yes you don't need a flat spot with the compression collar. Not sure about the tail block, havent found a need to pin mine.
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Old 12-31-2009, 11:32 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Hey Guys,

Here are a few pics of one of Steven's Vel 50's I'm currently working on, this shows how I mount the Spartan 760 gyro using Charley's Rotorworkz tape, also the location of where I put the remote Specktrum receiver with some 3M double sided tape and a little trick I use to get my head set up on the bench to verify mid stick zero pitch before we even go to the field, using this method the tracking is usually spot on.

I used to make my own cotrol rods using a kit I purchase from Central Hobbies, I would get some 3/16" or 5mm carbon rod with titanium barbed ends and JB Weld them in and made tail push rods for all my other non Outrage machines, I keep all Steven's Outrage machines stock out-of-the-box

I have some spare 5mm and 1/8" carbon rods I keep in my field bag and simply use a canopy grommet to suspend the carbon rod in the blade bolt hole and align it with the main shaft, I slide a 1/8" rod into the hub above the seesaw to lock the flybar, as you can see in the pic's below you can easily see if the carbon rod isn't parrell with the main shaft and how I achive zero pitch on the bench.

Hope this helps
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Old 12-31-2009, 02:05 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Very cool, Clyde... Thanks for posting the pictures. I do have a question for you, though...on the V50, is it less critical to have the washout arms parellel to each other at zero pitch? I'm asking because I've setup my other helicopters with washout arms parallel at 50 percent throttle with zero pitch.

Thanks, Clyde!

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Old 12-31-2009, 02:20 PM   #58 (permalink)
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On the outrage machine you dont want the washout arms level !! You want the radius arm and washout arm to form a 90 degree angle, the page in the manual shows the proper angle.
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Old 12-31-2009, 03:07 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Capi is correct, you want your pitch arms and washout arms to end up just like the ones I have in my photo. the settings on my head are from the manual on the advanced settings.

Hey Capi, see the Sparatan fits right in there like a glove with the "Charley Tape" and there is enough compression that I can still press down on the gyro and plug in the USB interface on the right side, no mods or washers on the frame and Steven has had a rock solid tail from day one with this setup
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Old 12-31-2009, 03:27 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Send me some !! I would buy a foot or two off Charley's site but i suspect he is currently very busy with something big and orange
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